If you are going to keep it forever, synthetic. For 100,000 miles or less, dino unless you have $$$ to burn.

 

It wouldn't make much difference whether you run 20 or 30 weight. as long as the oil covers the heat range experienced where you live. The only thing is remember the higher the viscosity the higher the drag , although unless your racing or doing heavy towing etc,it does't really matter much in the long run..

 

florida

because you live in florida you probibly dont start your car at below zero . the 5w rateing here is good because we have too get our cars running at as low as -40 . thats why we also have block heaters so we can plug our cars in to heat the oil ovenight . i think in florida you could go with a 10/30 or 15/40 . in the hot summer here i go with as high as a 20/50 . im no expert but in hot weather you have alot of choices of oil thickness . there should be a chart in your manual .

 

because you live in florida you probibly dont start your car at below zero . the 5w rateing here is good because we have too get our cars running at as low as -40 . thats why we also have block heaters so we can plug our cars in to heat the oil ovenight . i think in florida you could go with a 10/30 or 15/40 . in the hot summer here i go with as high as a 20/50 . im no expert but in hot weather you have alot of choices of oil thickness . there should be a chart in your manual .

Well I don't know about the new gen sportage but my 08's oil cap states 5w20 and so does my manual. Its probably best to use what the manual says.
Some dealers are VERY picky when it comes to doing your own work and will ask for receipts for work done by you. And if you have a picky dealer and use a non specified oil, they are likely to void your warranty.

 

Unless you suffer some catastrophic engine failure, this won't happen. And the likelihood of engine failure due to improper oil weight is extremely small, especially with the options listed within this thread.

I can also guarantee you that your average Kia mechanic is not going to have a clue at what weight oil he is looking at between the models listed.

 

hot

i agree its best to use whats written on the filler cap . its just that the 5w rateing seems not needed in a warm climate . when i lived further north the tire stores offer nitrogen for inflateing tires as it reduces the thumping of the flat spot where the tire sat over night

 

Its best to use common sense. The filler cap and owners manual are just recommendations.

For Florida's climate, a full synthetic 10w30 would be a good choice. You don't need an excessive amount of VII or VM's with the typical warm average Florida weather.

For my NewEngland climate, I prefer the 0w30 during the winter and 0w40 during the summer(I overload vehicle with people/coolers..). 0w20 if I'm looking for best MPG. Fullsynth for those of us that plan on keeping the vehicle longer than the payment.

I don't recommend non-synth oils. Seen too many sludge monsters over the years. Mineral oils don't flow well when too cold and don't do too well when overly hot or stressed. Cheap oil is great for a 'leased' vehicle with minimal maintenance that you don't plan on keeping.

And, don't forget all the other fluids. Would be dumb to keep the engine spotless and neglect the PSF, brake fluid, MTF, ATF, coolant, transfer case, or the rear end.

 

Thanks for all the comments and suggestion.

Hmm, too bad, this car doesn't come with Oil Changed reminder like my previous car. Wish they will add it in the future.

 

When using 5W30, you will probably get a lot of valve noise on cold starts. 5W20 seems to help this problem.

 

Swanndog: when I lived further north the tire stores offer nitrogen for inflating tires as it reduces the thumping of the flat spot where the tire sat over night.

-A new extension to the old Nitrogen scam.

 

Here's an analogy for you...Asking the question about oil weights on a car forum is like standing in the National Mall and shouting "Who's better, the Democrats or the Republicans!?" Personally I would use the weight it says on the oil cap. That's the weight the engine was designed for, and you will lessen the likelihood of engine noise. I have nearly 160,000 miles on my 06 Sedona. It has always (even with previous owner) took full-syn Mobil-1 5W20, and it still runs like new. 70,000 miles on my 07 Optima (same 2.4L as the Sportage) with 5W20 Mobil-1, and it runs like new without noises.

 

The manual states that 5W-20 is recommended. However, the engine will also accept 5W-30 and 10W-30. After around 4000 miles on my Sportage, I started getting a ticking noise immediately after starting the engine and it would last for around 3 seconds. This is when I haven't done my very first oil change yet. I soon got my oil change done at a oil change place and I think they used 5W-30 as it was stated on my receipt sheet. I was hoping they used what was printed on the oil filler cap, which is 5W-20, but I never complained or questioned them as I knew 5W-30 was an accepted viscosity for the engine. Also, after the oil change, the valve lifter ticking noise went away.