Welcome to the forum.

I'm not familiar with your model, but looking at the KiaTech web site (2002 Sportage), it shows the star wheel that needs to be turned to allow the brake shoes to retract, but cant see how this can be done through the back plate.



9. Turn the adjuster star wheel clockwise to relieve tension on the shoes.

 

That bar at the back of the star adjuster wheel in the 2nd picture Ron posted is there to prevent the adjuster from loosening up during normal driving:

Use a thin flat-blade screwdriver or brake tool to push & hold the catch plate off the adjuster wheel, then use a brake adjuster tool (or a second screwdriver) to turn the adjuster wheel.

 

Hi There,
Thanks for taking the time to reply.
My problem is that i cannot locate the star wheel through the inspection hole once the rubber grommit is removed. (I have fully inspected the back and cannot see any hole whatsoever!!!)
This means the brake although not applied stays locked in the drum.
I dont want to force the drum of the shoe as i fear i may damage the brake shoe inside.
Thanks.

 

Hi There,
Thanks for taking the time to reply.
My problem is that i cannot locate the star wheel through the inspection hole once the rubber grommit is removed. (I have fully inspected the back and cannot see any hole whatsoever!!!)
This means the brake although not applied stays locked in the drum.
I dont want to force the drum of the shoe as i fear i may damage the brake shoe inside.
Thanks.

Very often the problem is because the brake drum is worn and the shoes will not clear the ridge that's formed on the drum.
Brute force is often the only option in cases like this.

 

It may not be straight ahead of the hole and may be up or down from it.
It may also be rusted solid. I have a 04 Hyundai Sonata (same as 04 Optima) that I ended up having to use two crow bars between the drum and the back plate to force the drum off. It was a rusted mess in there. I am still working on the car as it was a salvage vehicle. I will need to get the back plate (that the ebrake parts are mounted on), a complete ebrake hardware kit, and brake pads...
There was NO way the spline would have ever moved...rusted solid.
Just a heads up...as you may have to do the same..
Dave

 

In my case the shoes were bonded to the drum when it finally came off...
His probably is as you said Ron... My offering is only a view from where I was at the time of removal and what to expect if it goes that far...and not to fear going that far as a "brake specialist" would do the same to get the job done and out of his bay and charge big $$$ for he job.

 

Like Ron and Dave said, it is very difficult to remove the rear drums when they have been on the vehicle for a long time.

You could try using a penetrating lubricant such as PB Blaster or WD40 (brands from "across the pond").. spray the axle hub where the drum sits, and use the straw and spray around the back of the drum between the backing plate & drum.

Let that sit for 10-15 minutes or so, then give the drum a few good whacks with a hammer on the sides where the shoes sit to break up the rust - hit the drum hard enough so it "rings", but don't try to knock it out of the park.

If the hub where the drum sits on is rusted, you should clean it up.

Spray it down with penetrating lubricant, then use some medium grit sandpaper and remove the rust so the drum can slip off easily. Tip: a little grease on the hub (after cleaning) makes a sticking drum slide off much easier.)

And try to get some penetrating lubricant in between the brake shoes & brake drum, you're gonna have to change those brake shoes anyway.

I would first try to get the drum back onto the hub, and then retry the adjuster - it may be too far inside for you to get a purchase on, with the drum being pushed out from the backing plate.

--
If no joy, it may be necessary to use Dave's tested and proven "2 crowbars and a hammer" method for removing the drum - I've have had to do this many times, when the internal brake hardware is rusted, or damaged.

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If uncomfortable or unsure about doing the above, then would recommend just getting the drum back onto the axle, and bringing it to the local garage or dealer.

 

leestq,

I just reread your original post - if those brakes / drums are original to the vehicle ( 5 years old or more), it's likely the drums are grooved to the shoes - forcing the drums off may be the only option.

Just be prepared for the likelihood of doing a complete brake rebuild from the backing plate up (new brake hardware kit, wheel cylinders, brake shoes, drums, etc.)