If you use Permatex, make sure it's #2 non-hardening. #1 will harden and you'll have a heck of a time removing it next time, and you always want to approach repairs as if you'll be the next person working on it. Even if you're not, having a mechanic have to double shop time can get pricey (I'm now retired, but used to be the mechanic that got beat up when I had to give that kind of bad news).

My manual for my 2012 1.6L says to "tighten uniformly in several passes" to 9.8 - 11.8 N.m (7.2 - 8.7 lb-ft). I'd suspect the 2011 would be the same.

 

Do NOT use any gasket, just RTV. That's how it was sealed form the factory.

 

That is the same for my Ford, but it includes a procedure , a cure time before mounting the pan and a cure time before adding oil and running it - does Kia have any such procedure?

 

I used the Permatex #75190 that I use on vintage boat motors. thanks to all for your contributions.

 

#2 I will make a new gasket: I have 1/16" cork and the thinner paper type on hand. (with Permatex).

I used the Permatex #75190 that I use on vintage boat motors. thanks to all for your contributions.

If you used that Permatex only, then you've replicated the factory spec. i.e. silicone sealant (no gasket material).