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Discussion starter · #22 ·
With how little I push the new amp, I doubt heat will be an issue. I will monitor it for a while, right now the only ventilation is the hole I made in the styrofoam to run the wires. It is a decent sized hole but doesn't "flow" air. If it becomes a problem, I will look at installing computer fans like someone else here did, but I doubt it will be.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
Yeah. What did you do in the afternoon? :cigareta: Some job you did,impressive!
This job ended up taking me 3 days!

I could have had it all done in about 8 hours if I knew the wiring better and had the line out converter, which I didn't. The second day was pretty much wasted trying to figure out ways to wire it, none of which worked.

I did save a bit of time by coaxing the girlfriend to help lay down Dynamat :)
 
Nice, Now comes the big question? How the !!$!$%@#$ does it sound? Does the sub rattle the box apart?

Again Im in the process of buying a new house and think I'm gonna wait until then to install all of the rest of my Alpine stuff (Sub amp,4ch amp,8 inch alpine woofer,etcc..) I hat looking at it in the garage..LOL

At least i have the Front/Rear speakers in and they do sound alot better than stock!

Im glade to see that polk fit into the stock box.. Im gonna make sure I dynamat it to help reduce rattling/vibratation. That stock box isnt the best to use but I guess I will find out.

Did you have any engine noise/wine? :lol:
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Nice, Now comes the big question? How the !!$!$%@#$ does it sound? Does the sub rattle the box apart?

Again Im in the process of buying a new house and think I'm gonna wait until then to install all of the rest of my Alpine stuff (Sub amp,4ch amp,8 inch alpine woofer,etcc..) I hat looking at it in the garage..LOL

At least i have the Front/Rear speakers in and they do sound alot better than stock!

Im glade to see that polk fit into the stock box.. Im gonna make sure I dynamat it to help reduce rattling/vibratation. That stock box isnt the best to use but I guess I will find out.

Did you have any engine noise/wine? :lol:
The sound is 100% better. Everything is more full and crisp. The bass is not too overpowering, but then again I don't have the bass cranked on the amp gain, or on the head unit. I only noticed a slight vibration in the back from the sub, but it's not bad and I haven't bothered to track it down. The vibration could be caused by either the panel that covers the subwoofer/cargo area, or the rear tail light, not sure which. In terms of volume, this stereo is almost too loud. I don't think I have turned it up all the way yet as it just starts to sound like noise to me (same thing you get when going to a metal show at a concert, it's just so loud you can't make out all the notes lol).

I did apply a lot of Dynamat to the sub box and a bit of area surrounding it. I also did apply it around the speakers in the doors, and around the speaker area of the door panel as well. I get no vibrations from the doors whatsoever.

I bought the bulk kit for my Dynamat, so I still have about 6 or 7 sheets left if I so choose to use them.
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
You should be able to fit in any standard 6-1/2" speaker into the doors once you remove the stock speakers. Mine fit fine.
 
Hey Highbeamz - first off thank you so much for writing this all up. It's given me confidence to do it myself :)

I did have a quick question on wiring with the LC6i.

You mentioned that you ran a second separate wire for the LC6i from the battery. If so what gauge and inline fuse size did you settle on? Knowing the power requirements are so low on the LC6i, do you think it would be safe to pull off the MRX-V60 amp's power using an inline fuse as well? Or even tapping the factory amp's power?

If I can pull from the factory amp, based on the diagram I'm assuming 1,2,3 on connector A is power (labeled as B (+) and I should be able to use ACC as the remote on for the LC6i as well.

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Sorry lots of questions...

I know you said you had some trouble with tweeter install up front. Do you have any other tips on installing that particular piece? I haven't started yet, still scoping out the hardware but want to try and mirror your setup as close as possible.

Thanks!
 
Just wanted to chime in and thank Highbeamz for the writeup. The speakers are still attached via rivets in the 2013 models, but the gut-and-reuse routine worked out perfectly for my install. I was able to quickly and cheaply get a huge audio improvement with the addition of 4 Polk db651 speakers. There's no need to buy the "db651s" slim models, as the db651 clears the door panel by about 1/4". Listening to the stock vs Polk units side by side was an even more clear cut difference than I anticipated. My wife is no audiophile, but she immediately noted the brighter and crisper treble, as well as the tighter, deeper, and more accurate bass response. For $125 shipped for the speakers and harnesses, it was an excellent value . . . particularly because the stock head unit has more than enough power to drive these units.

Nice clean install:

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Discussion starter · #35 ·
It's not a film, it's part of an options package this is available in certain markets which also includes matching stitching on the doors and seats.
Correct, this is actually the biggest reason I went with the UVO version of the Sportage and not the Nav, I preferred the contrast stitching and colored interior panels more than I cared for Leather and Nav.
 
Just wanted to say thanks Highbeamz for the Tut, this was excellent info,
Just installed non canbus Nav in my Australian Platinum sportage and as was able to bypass the amp to get basic audio happening, with a view to adding an amp later on.
Very helpfull info
tony
 
Excellent, detailed, & thorough job Highbeamz! Thanks, ;) this should be made a sticky.
 
Thank you FroMagnus for the wiring diagram. I am planning on replacing the door speakers with a set of older Infinity reference 612i series splits in front and full range 610cs in the rear doors, but I want to keep the original wiring.
Second phase I want to upgrade the amp with a Audison srx4 amp and upgrade the sub.
My question is, can I utilise the existing wiring harness to and from the existing amp when installing the Audison amp (it has hi level inputs). I will obviously replace the power and grounding cables and upgrade the sub cables but will the existing cables to the door speakers be sufficient ?
Would buying 2 ohm speakers work better with the standard wiring ?
Sorry for all the questions but I would rather ask than waste money unnecessarily.
 
Running the power wire(s)

Tools required:
Knife and/or wire stripper
Crimper or pliers for large connectors

With panels and seats already removed, this is much easier. I utilized the factory grommet near the steering shaft. Cut a small slit in the grommet and run the wire however works for you. I ran mine from the inside to outside. Keep in mind my install does not show the second wire installed for my line out converter which was done after I took pictures. Hide all wires under panels or carpet if you can to keep it looking clean. All the plastic all the way to the back is just held by push pins, so pull any of them off that you need to. I personally removed them all. I let the power wire run under the rear seat for easy access in case I ever need to get to it. Crimp your wires and connect to the battery as you see fit (not sure if any screws are better than the others. Use an adaptor if you like.
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I presume you fused it up by the battery. The smell of burnt human is hard to get out of the upholstery.
 
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