From other posts and threads, I have understood that the "classic" coupler failure , as reported, is a kind of "lock" mode...so opposite to your case.
Failure of coupler to apply can be caused by failure of pressure pump....not reported as an issue on this forum.

HOwever, any fault in the wheel sensors would inhibit EVERYTHING so called "intelligent"....ABS, TC, ESC..and AWD even if it shows the LOCKED icon when you activate the LOCK button. .

 

Check the underhood fuse box! maybe the 4WD fuse is blown? I had this same experience when I temporarily pulled the AWD fuse, it went right back in after almost losing control of the steering, due to front wheel spin!

 

Thanks, never thought about the wheel sensors. Wonder if something was done to them on winter wheel changeover. Are they easy to see or hit on the wheel? Where can i find a schematic?

 

Thanks..will mention to service guys. Why did you pull AWD fuse? blown?

 

Because I'm an old Motorhead, and I wanted to see what would happen, and to see if the car would get better mileage, and be faster!

 

Thanks, never thought about the wheel sensors. Wonder if something was done to them on winter wheel changeover. Are they easy to see or hit on the wheel? Where can i find a schematic?

 

JUst a quick check , trying some steps to isolate the culprit:
question 1: DO you see the ABS "fail" icon ? ________________
question 2: If you push the AWD LOCK button ...does the AWD LOCK icon show ?____________

 

can't recall the ABS "fail" icon. think it comes up red?
pushed the lock button when i was driving...thought it came on but did nothing for traction. will check again

 

...
pushed the lock button when i was driving...thought it came on but did nothing for traction. ..

If the light (4LOCK) comes ON, then the fuse is OK. HOwever, 4LOCK works only at low speed...it disengages over 40km/h but the light stays ON and reengages below 40....

mmm...thought of is not "confirm".....and the ABS light icon, when ON, is clearly visible

 

I would put on some winter tires, then see how it is. You mostly described a lack of traction in snow and ice.

 

Have you figured out the problem. My 2014 Sorento is doing the same thing. Rear wheels not moving but no noises.

 

Also looking for an update, having same issue, wondering what the fix was, trying to avoid the dealer....

 

Well have a not-so-happy update for anyone who may search for this in the future.
Took our 2014 Sorento EX+ V6 with ~150,000km(off warranty) into the dealer today as The FWD only in winter time was less than ideal.

I normally do all my own maintenance and repair, but this time I was struggling to accurately diagnose the AWD coupler as the culprit without the Kia specific GDS software, and didn't want to throw a $1000 part at it in uncertainty, as well as my work load is heavy this time of the year and I wanted it repaired before a 1800km family trip in 2 weeks.

Had the common binding and "crab walking" AWD on dry pavement last fall so I knew the coupler was on the way out. Wife accelerated hard from a stop on dry pavement last week and heard a bang and grinding noise that only lasted a few seconds. Then quiet, no warning lights and no Rear wheel power.

Just as I predicted, failed AWD coupler, "slipping clutch" is what the work order read.

Total cost: $1554CAD
1hr shop time to diagnose, 1.7 to swap parts, @$135 an hr. New coupler cost was just over a $1000.

Hope this one last longer than 150,000km, time will tell. Dealer told me this is the first one they have seen cause total AWD loss, all others have just been bonding issues.
I brought the old coupler home and plan to take it apart to see what the inside holds!

 

Just as I predicted, failed AWD coupler, "slipping clutch" is what the work order read.

Total cost: $1554CAD
1hr shop time to diagnose, 1.7 to swap parts, @$135 an hr. New coupler cost was just over a $1000.

Other people on this forum have said they got a new coupler for about $700, was very easy to replace in 1 hour.

 

So if I don't have any warning lights come on and my AWD Sorento spins the fronts even on dry, could this be the pump ?

 

It could be a number of things...the pump...the coupler...an electronic fault...etc.

 

Wife need to take it easy on the trottle!!! She must think its a sports SUV...pedal to the metal. No Xmas present for her...LOL
I had mine replaced under warranty. They didn't take much more than 30 min to do it. Under an Hour for sure. Dealer seems to be charging the max and normally not charge diagnostics when you go with the repair.

 

We're on our third

We've had our rear coupler replaced twice under warranty. We're only at 60 miles now, so hoping if it does go out it will be covered again. Apparently, the replacement couplers are not new and improved. This doesn't make me want to keep the Sorento past its warranty period.

 

We've had our rear coupler replaced twice under warranty. We're only at 60 miles now, so hoping if it does go out it will be covered again. Apparently, the replacement couplers are not new and improved. This doesn't make me want to keep the Sorento past its warranty period.

What were the symptoms of a bad coupler ? Is there any way to tell that this is a bad coupler not sensor ? Thanks.

 

Just had the wife's 2014 Sorento fixed. No awd no 4wheel lock just front wheel drive. She could not get in our road after a storm. There was a noise (plastic grinding sound) in reverse the night before. All lights on the dash were normal and lite when the buttons pushed, turn off traction control, the 4wd lock etc. Absolutely no awd. Took to the dealer and they replaced the coupler and it is all working again. Only 30,000 miles and the extended warranty covered it minus a $50 deductible. Total bill would have been $1170 Hope the new one lasts longer that the old one.

 

Just had the wife's 2014 Sorento fixed.....

Too bad we do not know anything about this car...mileage? BOUGHT NEW OR USED ? V6 or 2.4? THese details can help others make the point about what happens.

 

Take it back for a proper FIX. All repairs have their own warranties.

Knowone here is going to wave a wand and fix it. You need a Real mechanic and 100% good parts (new)

As posted there is not background reference.

 

According to the list above, exactly the same coupler is used on both the 3.3V6 and the 2.4L4.
Most failed couplers..if not all. on this forum, were with the 3.3. Is it undersized for the 3.3 ?

 

Not question the 3.3L can dish out a lot of power if you even a little heavier on the throttle taking off out of a curve or corner turn. I try and ease the power until I am nearly straight otherwise the couple clutch plates are working torquing the rear wheels pushing it hard through the turn. I am sure it will last longer this way. Its tough to do but do it consciously resisting pushing too much on the gas. 2.4L is likely whimpy compare to the 3.3L and I would not have any 4 cylinder engine, especially in a vehicle this size.

If I am on a straight away and desire to pass, well a modest throttle pressure and I am GONE like a shot passed the vehicle and pulled back in. Those horses are there and plentiful!! No half throttle or pedal to the medal needed at all in this vehicle. Misused the coupler is likely eaten up.

As noted in other discussions the AWD is always active and the rear coupler is working, not sitting idle in many scenarios!!

 

it was the rear coupler. replaced under warranty