what is oil type sorento use ?
Is it safe to use synthetic on new sorento ?
Is it safe to use synthetic on new sorento ?
what is oil type sorento use ?
picard12
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For those who might be wondering what motor oil North-American KIA dealerships are using for your regular oil changes...
If you were to contact 10 different KIA dealerships throughout Canada and the US to ask them what specific oil (brand, type, viscosity, etc) they use, you might get 10 different answers.
Furthermore, the same dealership might be using several different motor oils (brands/type) at different times or regularly switch from one brand to another (they might just go with the lowest bid at the time).
What I can tell you however, is that I seriously doubt that they are consistently using "TOTAL QUARTZ 9000 ENERGY HKS G-310 5W-30" Synthetic Oil.
I know for a fact that some dealerships are using 5W-20 oil instead of 5W-30 (QUARTZ 9000 ENERGY HKS G-310 does NOT come in a 5W-20 grade), and that some of them are using a synthetic-blend oil instead of full synthetic oil (QUARTZ 9000 is a full synthetic oil). Some might even be using conventional oil (especially if they are offering free oil changes).
The only way to be 100% certain which oil is going into your car is to change it yourself. Just sayin'
Also of note, for Hyundai vehicles, KIA's sister cars, the "recommended" oil brand in the Owner's Manual, for the exact same engines, is Quaker State. (Incidentally, QS doesn't carry an ACEA A5 spec'd oil.) So go figure.
The brand I personally use in my own vehicles is AMSOIL's Signature Series [AMSOIL Products] (See also this Head-to-head Study)
However, as I said before, ANY high quality reputable 'name brand' synthetic oil will do just fine provided it meets or exceeds the minimum required specs outlined in your owner’s manual.
Richard
If you were to contact 10 different KIA dealerships throughout Canada and the US to ask them what specific oil (brand, type, viscosity, etc) they use, you might get 10 different answers.
Furthermore, the same dealership might be using several different motor oils (brands/type) at different times or regularly switch from one brand to another (they might just go with the lowest bid at the time).
What I can tell you however, is that I seriously doubt that they are consistently using "TOTAL QUARTZ 9000 ENERGY HKS G-310 5W-30" Synthetic Oil.
I know for a fact that some dealerships are using 5W-20 oil instead of 5W-30 (QUARTZ 9000 ENERGY HKS G-310 does NOT come in a 5W-20 grade), and that some of them are using a synthetic-blend oil instead of full synthetic oil (QUARTZ 9000 is a full synthetic oil). Some might even be using conventional oil (especially if they are offering free oil changes).
The only way to be 100% certain which oil is going into your car is to change it yourself. Just sayin'
Also of note, for Hyundai vehicles, KIA's sister cars, the "recommended" oil brand in the Owner's Manual, for the exact same engines, is Quaker State. (Incidentally, QS doesn't carry an ACEA A5 spec'd oil.) So go figure.
The brand I personally use in my own vehicles is AMSOIL's Signature Series [AMSOIL Products] (See also this Head-to-head Study)
However, as I said before, ANY high quality reputable 'name brand' synthetic oil will do just fine provided it meets or exceeds the minimum required specs outlined in your owner’s manual.
Richard
I now drive a 2020 Ram Bighorn. Had an 03 LX 3.5 Sorento
Joined
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2,546 Posts
"Outstanding protection against engine wear and ensure engine longevity. Allows long drain intervals (30,000km) thanks to an excellent resistance to oxidation."
I copied that from their PDF.
Is Hyundai/KIA saying that if a person uses this oil, the company will NOT void a warranty because a person went over the mileage as stated for an oil change?
I copied that from their PDF.
Is Hyundai/KIA saying that if a person uses this oil, the company will NOT void a warranty because a person went over the mileage as stated for an oil change?
Well... NO!
All car manufacturers recommend following the appropriate "service schedule" (normal or severe) that is mentioned in your Owner's Manual - especially if the car is still under warranty.
(And don't forget that in Europe - TOTAL is a European company/brand - the "oil change intervals" are much longer than in North-America. Furthermore, a 30,000KM interval would be only under ideal conditions and only on some select vehicles not all.)
I always advise people to follow the recommended oil change intervals while the warranty is still in effect. Why take the chance of a warranty claim being denied?
However, after the warranty has expired, then you can extend them if you choose to do so, using a high quality name-brand full synthetic oil.
Now that said, on my own vehicles, I've always extended my oil change intervals past the manufacturer's recommendations - even while they were still under warranty. But that's just me.
Let me ask you this, have you ever heard about an "oil-related" catastrophic engine failure happening on any of these new modern vehicles that was caused by a person extending his oil changes beyond the manufacture's recommendations? I haven't.
Now that's not to say that it couldn't happen, anything's possible. But if you are regularly changing your oil and filter at reasonable oil change intervals (using high-quality full synthetic oil of the correct specs and viscosity from a reputable brand), then an oil-related engine failure (caused by the person extending his oil change intervals) is extremely unlikely.
Again, I'm not advising anyone else to do the same as I do, I would never do that, but as far as my own vehicles are concerned, I'm not worried about it.
Don't forget that in the unlikely event that an "oil-related" catastrophic engine failure did happen, the burden of proof would be on them. They would have to prove that the engine failure was caused by lack of maintenance on your part (not changing the oil often enough).
Additionally, it is actually ILLEGAL for manufacturers or dealers to claim that your warranty is void or to deny coverage under your warranty simply because someone other than the dealer performed the routine maintenance or repairs.
It is also illegal for companies to void your warranty or deny coverage under the warranty simply because you used an 'aftermarket' or 'recycled' part (including oil and filters).
Check-out the following LINKS:
FTC Consumer Information: Auto Warranties & Routine Maintenance
Wikipedia: Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act
Note: If you plan on doing your own oil and filter changes, or have them done by a 'third party' (such as a Quick Lube shop or an Independent shop), be sure to keep all your receipts and detailed records.
Now for anyone considering extending your oil change intervals, you should only do so if you are using a high-quality Full Synthetic oil of a well-known reputable brand (preferably a "true" 100% Full Synthetic oil - not all full synthetic oils are created equal).
And, don't forget to regularly monitor the oil levels between changes and add some make-up oil if/when needed (especially if your car engine is known to suffer from "excessive oil consumption").
Richard
I now drive a 2020 Ram Bighorn. Had an 03 LX 3.5 Sorento
Joined
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2,546 Posts
I only copied that to show that "if" someone read that and took it to heart, they might make the extended oil change interval. AND "if" they did have an issue they might take KIA/HYUNDAI to task on it. I also know for a fact that if you do have a non lubricated engine issue they can or will try to deny a warranty. They will check receipts and intervals. I know if you are a DYI er keep all receipts and a log book when doing repairs. It saved my bacon a number of times. I have no beef with your posts. I just thought it was unusual for a company to speak for another.
Totally agree! This is very important.
And again, if your car is still under warranty, just follow the recommended "service schedule" in your Owner's Manual.
(Hey, don't do what I do, do what I say!)
Happy motoring!
Richard
I just wanted to add that "TOTAL" is hardly "unique" in allowing such long drain intervals (up to 30,000 KM) for their "top-of the-line" engine oils. There are a number of other motor oil companies that also allow equally long intervals for their premium full synthetic oils.
However, those companies will always tell you to follow the recommendations in your owner's manual while your car is under warranty.
And they will also tell you that those maximum extended drain intervals only apply to vehicles who are driven under "ideal operating conditions" (definitely NOT under anything that would be considered "severe driving conditions").
Just take Mobil 1's top-of-the-line oil for instance,
Mobil 1 Annual Protection
Up to 20,000 miles (32,000 KM) or 1 year, whichever comes first, guaranteed*
*ExxonMobil warrants that the lubricant you purchased will protect your vehicle’s critical engine parts from oil related failure.
**Please follow the recommendations in your owner's manual while your car is under warranty.
**Check your oil level frequently to ensure it’s at the proper level. Add oil if necessary.
You will find similar statements from other companies who promote "extended oil drain intervals".
Richard
Bear in mind that there is a big difference between the law as it is written and the practical application of that law. In a case where a dealer suspects that an aftermarket part or lack of maintenance (which means sticking to the manufacturer's intervals regardless of what an oil company says), they can refuse to repair an issue under warranty. At that point they don't have to prove anything - they just tell you that your claim has been denied due to whatever they suspect and you either pay for the repair or take your vehicle elsewhere. You would have to take them to court to get that decision reversed unless you can get the manufacturer's representative to side with you over the dealer. Now comes the rub... you probably had an arbitration clause in your sales contract but even if you didn't, the burden of proof is really on you. You will be presenting your case in front of an arbitrator or judge who is probably not mechanically inclined and will tend to take the word of the dealer or manufacturer over yours because "it's their product, who could know it better than them?" You would have to provide expert testimony that would convince the court that the claim denial was not reasonable.
Some dealers are more forgiving than others. For example, there are two Ford dealers in my area that take completely opposite views... I put a tune in my Mustang to correct the speedometer when I changed the rear end gear ratio. The dealer I use now says that as long as the tune doesn't cause other problems, they're fine with it. The other dealer says that installing a tune for any reason voids any warranty on the drivetrain (which is actually Ford's position on the subject). Of course the rear end itself is specifically not covered because of the gear change but I knew that going in. So if you plan to deviate from the manufacturer's specifications, it's always best to ask your dealer whether it will be a problem.
Some dealers are more forgiving than others. For example, there are two Ford dealers in my area that take completely opposite views... I put a tune in my Mustang to correct the speedometer when I changed the rear end gear ratio. The dealer I use now says that as long as the tune doesn't cause other problems, they're fine with it. The other dealer says that installing a tune for any reason voids any warranty on the drivetrain (which is actually Ford's position on the subject). Of course the rear end itself is specifically not covered because of the gear change but I knew that going in. So if you plan to deviate from the manufacturer's specifications, it's always best to ask your dealer whether it will be a problem.
I may have posted this here before, but I used to send used oil from my motorcycles off to Blackstone for analysis. One time, I went over double the "recommended" 3000 miles - over 7000, in fact - just lost track of the last time I had changed the oil in that particular bike.
Analysis came back fine. It was "dirtier" than oil that had been changed earlier, but was still *well* within tolerances for viscosity and other critical factors. This was regular oil - Rotella Diesel oil (commonly used by motorcyclists), now called T4 - not Synthetic.
The lab suggested I try 8000 miles next time.
Since then, I've tried to change oil in all my vehicles (I have many) every 5000 miles - just because it's easy to keep track of if you do it at 30k, 35k, 40k, etc. Only exceptions are the Sorento - where I can set a service reminder - and my daughters Challenger - which tracks driving patterns and tells you when it's needed.
Analysis came back fine. It was "dirtier" than oil that had been changed earlier, but was still *well* within tolerances for viscosity and other critical factors. This was regular oil - Rotella Diesel oil (commonly used by motorcyclists), now called T4 - not Synthetic.
The lab suggested I try 8000 miles next time.
Since then, I've tried to change oil in all my vehicles (I have many) every 5000 miles - just because it's easy to keep track of if you do it at 30k, 35k, 40k, etc. Only exceptions are the Sorento - where I can set a service reminder - and my daughters Challenger - which tracks driving patterns and tells you when it's needed.
Some years ago I was working in the parts department at a dealership when a mechanic put a deformed part on the counter and asked for a replacement. I had no idea what it was. It turned out to be a molten connecting rod end cap... normally an easily identifiable part that had been deformed beyond recognition. (the mechanic was just teasing... they ended up replacing the engine rather than rebuilding it).
Later, the customer came to pay for the repairs and I found out he was the owner of a local quick lube shop replacing the engine for one of his customers. He explained that one of his employees had neglected to put new oil in after draining the old oil and replacing the filter. So I commented that the employee was probably now a former employee to which he responded no - they get two or three of these situations every year so it's just considered a cost of business. I have never had an oil change at any quick lube shop since then.
Moral of the story... it's always better to have oil, whether dino oil or synthetic, than not to have it.
Later, the customer came to pay for the repairs and I found out he was the owner of a local quick lube shop replacing the engine for one of his customers. He explained that one of his employees had neglected to put new oil in after draining the old oil and replacing the filter. So I commented that the employee was probably now a former employee to which he responded no - they get two or three of these situations every year so it's just considered a cost of business. I have never had an oil change at any quick lube shop since then.
Moral of the story... it's always better to have oil, whether dino oil or synthetic, than not to have it.
Some years ago I was working in the parts department at a dealership when a mechanic put a deformed part on the counter and asked for a replacement. I had no idea what it was. It turned out to be a molten connecting rod end cap... normally an easily identifiable part that had been deformed beyond recognition. (the mechanic was just teasing... they ended up replacing the engine rather than rebuilding it).
Later, the customer came to pay for the repairs and I found out he was the owner of a local quick lube shop replacing the engine for one of his customers. He explained that one of his employees had neglected to put new oil in after draining the old oil and replacing the filter. So I commented that the employee was probably now a former employee to which he responded no - they get two or three of these situations every year so it's just considered a cost of business. I have never had an oil change at any quick lube shop since then.
Yep! I hear you.
There are a lot of shady Quick Lube shops (and mechanics) out there.
(There are a lot of honest ones too though.)
Here are a few examples (there are many other ones):
And this article:
Oil-change shop caught scamming customers
Richard
Extended Drain Intervals and Oil Analysis
The fact that drain intervals can be extended past the typical "recommended" intervals, when using high quality full synthetic motor oil, has been repeatedly proven and demonstrated countless times by industry-standard ASTM tests, long-term field studies and subsequent engine tear-downs, and Oil Analysis.
For those considering extending their oil change intervals:
1. If your KIA is still under WARRANTY, it is advisable to follow the oil change interval from the appropriate "service schedule" (normal or severe) outlined in your Owner's Manual.
2. If your KIA has the T-GDI (Turbo Gasoline Direct Injection) engine, you will need to change the oil more frequently than you would for a non-turbo engine.
3. Operating your vehicle under "severe driving conditions" will also require more frequent oil changes.
4. Be sure to use a high quality Synthetic Oil from a well-known reputable brand name that meets or exceeds the minimum required specs outlined in your owner’s manual. The higher the oil quality, the longer you will be able to safely extent your drain intervals.
5. Be sure to also use a high-quality Oil Filter (I use the OEM KIA oil filter) and to change it every single time you change your oil [See THIS POST].
6. Don't forget to also regularly monitor your Air Filter and change it at the recommended intervals or when dirty.
7. And don't forget to regularly monitor the oil level between changes, adding make-up oil if/when needed (especially if your car engine is known to suffer from "excessive oil consumption").
8. Lastly, if you plan on doing your own oil and filter changes, or have them done by a 'third party' (such as a Quick Lube shop or an Independent shop), be sure to keep all your receipts and detailed records.
P.S. On when to perform your First Oil Change, see THIS POST
Oil Analysis
Do you know oil tells a story and provides a working history of your equipment as well as the condition of your lubricant? By analyzing used engine oil, a qualified lab can determine the degree of protection the oil is delivering and make certain the oil has not been contaminated. Oil Analysis also can detect impending engine failure.
Oil Analysis is a process for determining the chemical properties of a lubricant. It’s often used to detect mechanical issues before major failures occur. It is often used as part of a preventative maintenance program and helps you derive the longest life from your oil and engine.
Used oil samples are analyzed for specific physical properties, contaminant levels and wear debris from the engine to determine if the oil can remain in service. Oil Analysis can also monitor the wear rate of the engine and detect if wear is elevated beyond acceptable limits.
For those reluctant to extend oil drain intervals, Oil Analysis provides evidence that synthetic oils have exceptional performance and protection capabilities in extended service.
For more on Used Oil Analysis (UOA), see THIS POST
To find out more about how the Fluid Analysis Program works, how to purchase a Sampling Kit and Pump, and learn about different oil sampling methods, click the LINK below:
What Is Oil Analysis?
Richard
The fact that drain intervals can be extended past the typical "recommended" intervals, when using high quality full synthetic motor oil, has been repeatedly proven and demonstrated countless times by industry-standard ASTM tests, long-term field studies and subsequent engine tear-downs, and Oil Analysis.
For those considering extending their oil change intervals:
1. If your KIA is still under WARRANTY, it is advisable to follow the oil change interval from the appropriate "service schedule" (normal or severe) outlined in your Owner's Manual.
2. If your KIA has the T-GDI (Turbo Gasoline Direct Injection) engine, you will need to change the oil more frequently than you would for a non-turbo engine.
3. Operating your vehicle under "severe driving conditions" will also require more frequent oil changes.
4. Be sure to use a high quality Synthetic Oil from a well-known reputable brand name that meets or exceeds the minimum required specs outlined in your owner’s manual. The higher the oil quality, the longer you will be able to safely extent your drain intervals.
5. Be sure to also use a high-quality Oil Filter (I use the OEM KIA oil filter) and to change it every single time you change your oil [See THIS POST].
6. Don't forget to also regularly monitor your Air Filter and change it at the recommended intervals or when dirty.
7. And don't forget to regularly monitor the oil level between changes, adding make-up oil if/when needed (especially if your car engine is known to suffer from "excessive oil consumption").
8. Lastly, if you plan on doing your own oil and filter changes, or have them done by a 'third party' (such as a Quick Lube shop or an Independent shop), be sure to keep all your receipts and detailed records.
P.S. On when to perform your First Oil Change, see THIS POST
Oil Analysis
Do you know oil tells a story and provides a working history of your equipment as well as the condition of your lubricant? By analyzing used engine oil, a qualified lab can determine the degree of protection the oil is delivering and make certain the oil has not been contaminated. Oil Analysis also can detect impending engine failure.
Oil Analysis is a process for determining the chemical properties of a lubricant. It’s often used to detect mechanical issues before major failures occur. It is often used as part of a preventative maintenance program and helps you derive the longest life from your oil and engine.
Used oil samples are analyzed for specific physical properties, contaminant levels and wear debris from the engine to determine if the oil can remain in service. Oil Analysis can also monitor the wear rate of the engine and detect if wear is elevated beyond acceptable limits.
For those reluctant to extend oil drain intervals, Oil Analysis provides evidence that synthetic oils have exceptional performance and protection capabilities in extended service.
For more on Used Oil Analysis (UOA), see THIS POST
To find out more about how the Fluid Analysis Program works, how to purchase a Sampling Kit and Pump, and learn about different oil sampling methods, click the LINK below:
What Is Oil Analysis?
Richard
What is Oil Viscosity Part 1: The Basics
Since the development of the engine, viscosity (thickness) of motor oil has always been recognized as its most important property in avoiding catastrophic failure.
The Viscosity of a fluid is a physical measurement of its internal resistance to flow. Otherwise stated, it is a measure of the fluid’s internal adhesive/cohesive frictional properties.
An oil that has a high viscosity is described as being "thicker" or "heavier" while an oil that has a low viscosity is described as "thinner" or "lighter" – the thicker the oil, the higher its viscosity. It's a lot easier to say, "Honey is thicker than water" than to say, "Honey has a higher viscosity than water."
The viscosity of oil is affected by temperature changes during use. At hotter temperatures, it becomes thinner (viscosity decreases) and provides less engine protection. At colder temperatures, it thickens (viscosity increases) and becomes more difficult to pump around the engine, resulting in less protection at start-up and an increase in wear.
The viscosity must be high enough to maintain a lubricating film between moving parts, but low enough that the lubricant can easily flow through the oil filter into galleries (passageways) and around the various engine parts under all conditions.
Another factor that affects viscosity is contamination of the engine oil; when oil becomes contaminated, its viscosity changes. With soot, dirt, and sludge, viscosity increases; with fuel dilution it decreases. Both directions of viscosity change are potentially harmful to the engine.
Dynamic Viscosity
Dynamic Viscosity is a measurement of a fluid’s internal friction or its resistance to gradual deformation by shear stress or tensile stress. It is usually reported in units called "centipoise" (cP), which is numerically equal to "millipascal-second" (mPa•s). Dynamic viscosity is sometimes referred to as absolute viscosity.
Imagine that a lubricating fluid is compressed between two large flat plates creating a film between the plates; one plate is fixed, the other one is moving horizontally at a constant speed. As the top plate moves, each layer of fluid will move faster than the one just below it, and friction between them will give rise to a force resisting their relative motion. In particular, the fluid will apply on the top plate a force in the direction opposite to its motion, and an equal but opposite one to the bottom plate.
An external force is therefore required in order to keep the top plate moving at a constant speed and overcome the fluid’s film friction. The greater the friction, the greater the amount of force required. Dynamic viscosity is a measure of the fluid’s resistance to being deformed by this shearing force.
The Dynamic (shear) Viscosity of a fluid varies with changes in temperature; therefore its measurement is meaningless unless the temperature at which it is determined is given.
Kinematic Viscosity
A more familiar viscosity measurement is Kinematic Viscosity.
Kinematic viscosity takes into account the fluid’s density (specific gravity) as a quotient of its dynamic viscosity. Otherwise stated, Kinematic Viscosity (cSt) is the fluid’s dynamic viscosity (cP) divided by its specific gravity (SG). Kinematic viscosity is usually reported in "centistokes" (cSt) or "mm2/s".
Kinematic Viscosity is the amount of time, in centistokes (mm2/s), that it takes for a specified volume of fluid to flow, under the force of gravity, through a fixed diameter orifice at a given temperature.
Since kinematic viscosity varies inversely with temperature, its value is meaningless unless the temperature at which it is determined is given.
Viscosity Index
When U.S. engineers came to realize that at sub-zero temperatures oil refined from the aromatic black crude oil from the Texas Gulf was much thicker than oil refined from light amber Pennsylvania crude, they began to measure this difference in behavior with a viscosity ratio metric called the "Viscosity Index".
The Viscosity Index (VI) was developed by E. Dean and G. Davis in 1929. Pennsylvania crude (paraffinic) was set as a benchmark at one extreme, representing low viscosity changeability relative to temperature. At the other extreme was Texas Gulf crude (naphthenic).
If a lubricant was similar to the Pennsylvania crude, it was assigned a VI of 100. If it was similar to Texas Gulf crude, it was assigned a VI of 0. Halfway in between was a VI of 50, and so forth. The higher the VI, the more stable the viscosity across a range of temperatures (more desirable).
The Viscosity Index (VI) is an arbitrary measure of the variation in the viscosity of oil due to changes in temperature. Put differently, the Viscosity Index is a measure of how much the oil's viscosity changes with changes in temperature. The higher the viscosity index, the less the oil’s viscosity changes with changes in temperature. The viscosity index is simply reported as a numerical value that has no units. The measurements are taken at 40°C and 100°C.
Given that oils with higher viscosity indices thin less at higher temperatures and don’t thicken as much at lower temperatures, the higher the viscosity index, the better the motor oils will perform in temperature extremes. Therefore, oils with higher viscosity indices are desirable and preferable.
LINK: What is Oil Viscosity Part 1: The Basics
Richard
Since the development of the engine, viscosity (thickness) of motor oil has always been recognized as its most important property in avoiding catastrophic failure.
The Viscosity of a fluid is a physical measurement of its internal resistance to flow. Otherwise stated, it is a measure of the fluid’s internal adhesive/cohesive frictional properties.
An oil that has a high viscosity is described as being "thicker" or "heavier" while an oil that has a low viscosity is described as "thinner" or "lighter" – the thicker the oil, the higher its viscosity. It's a lot easier to say, "Honey is thicker than water" than to say, "Honey has a higher viscosity than water."
The viscosity of oil is affected by temperature changes during use. At hotter temperatures, it becomes thinner (viscosity decreases) and provides less engine protection. At colder temperatures, it thickens (viscosity increases) and becomes more difficult to pump around the engine, resulting in less protection at start-up and an increase in wear.
The viscosity must be high enough to maintain a lubricating film between moving parts, but low enough that the lubricant can easily flow through the oil filter into galleries (passageways) and around the various engine parts under all conditions.
Another factor that affects viscosity is contamination of the engine oil; when oil becomes contaminated, its viscosity changes. With soot, dirt, and sludge, viscosity increases; with fuel dilution it decreases. Both directions of viscosity change are potentially harmful to the engine.
Dynamic Viscosity
Dynamic Viscosity is a measurement of a fluid’s internal friction or its resistance to gradual deformation by shear stress or tensile stress. It is usually reported in units called "centipoise" (cP), which is numerically equal to "millipascal-second" (mPa•s). Dynamic viscosity is sometimes referred to as absolute viscosity.
Imagine that a lubricating fluid is compressed between two large flat plates creating a film between the plates; one plate is fixed, the other one is moving horizontally at a constant speed. As the top plate moves, each layer of fluid will move faster than the one just below it, and friction between them will give rise to a force resisting their relative motion. In particular, the fluid will apply on the top plate a force in the direction opposite to its motion, and an equal but opposite one to the bottom plate.
An external force is therefore required in order to keep the top plate moving at a constant speed and overcome the fluid’s film friction. The greater the friction, the greater the amount of force required. Dynamic viscosity is a measure of the fluid’s resistance to being deformed by this shearing force.
The Dynamic (shear) Viscosity of a fluid varies with changes in temperature; therefore its measurement is meaningless unless the temperature at which it is determined is given.
Kinematic Viscosity
A more familiar viscosity measurement is Kinematic Viscosity.
Kinematic viscosity takes into account the fluid’s density (specific gravity) as a quotient of its dynamic viscosity. Otherwise stated, Kinematic Viscosity (cSt) is the fluid’s dynamic viscosity (cP) divided by its specific gravity (SG). Kinematic viscosity is usually reported in "centistokes" (cSt) or "mm2/s".
Kinematic Viscosity is the amount of time, in centistokes (mm2/s), that it takes for a specified volume of fluid to flow, under the force of gravity, through a fixed diameter orifice at a given temperature.
Since kinematic viscosity varies inversely with temperature, its value is meaningless unless the temperature at which it is determined is given.
Viscosity Index
When U.S. engineers came to realize that at sub-zero temperatures oil refined from the aromatic black crude oil from the Texas Gulf was much thicker than oil refined from light amber Pennsylvania crude, they began to measure this difference in behavior with a viscosity ratio metric called the "Viscosity Index".
The Viscosity Index (VI) was developed by E. Dean and G. Davis in 1929. Pennsylvania crude (paraffinic) was set as a benchmark at one extreme, representing low viscosity changeability relative to temperature. At the other extreme was Texas Gulf crude (naphthenic).
If a lubricant was similar to the Pennsylvania crude, it was assigned a VI of 100. If it was similar to Texas Gulf crude, it was assigned a VI of 0. Halfway in between was a VI of 50, and so forth. The higher the VI, the more stable the viscosity across a range of temperatures (more desirable).
The Viscosity Index (VI) is an arbitrary measure of the variation in the viscosity of oil due to changes in temperature. Put differently, the Viscosity Index is a measure of how much the oil's viscosity changes with changes in temperature. The higher the viscosity index, the less the oil’s viscosity changes with changes in temperature. The viscosity index is simply reported as a numerical value that has no units. The measurements are taken at 40°C and 100°C.
Given that oils with higher viscosity indices thin less at higher temperatures and don’t thicken as much at lower temperatures, the higher the viscosity index, the better the motor oils will perform in temperature extremes. Therefore, oils with higher viscosity indices are desirable and preferable.
LINK: What is Oil Viscosity Part 1: The Basics
Richard
What is Oil Viscosity Part 2: Oil Grades
In 1911 the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) created a numerical code graduated system (the SAE J300 Engine Oil Viscosity Classification) to classify motor oil according to their viscosity characteristics.
The SAE wanted a system that reflected the suitability of an oil for use as an engine lubricant and was easy for the consumer to understand. Before the SAE came up with the SAE J300 system, there was no simple way to tell how motor oil would behave in a hot engine.
Initially, the first version of the SAE J300 EOVC system defined five different numbered grades for motor oil (SAE 10, 20, 30, 40, and 50) based on flow rates (viscosities) measured at 100°C. By 1926 there were six grades of oil defined (SAE 10 through SAE 60).
Over the years, as shortcomings were identified, the SAE J300 system was amended numerous times. For instance, four SAE "W" (Winter) grades (SAE 10W, 15W, 20W, and 25W) were added in 1952, which were specified by viscosity measured at -18°C (0°F), as it became apparent that engines could not be started in very cold weather. Two more low-temperature grades (5W and 0W) would later be added.
In the early 1970's, minimum "High-Temperature/High-Shear" (HT/HS) specifications (measured at 150°C) were added when it became obvious that engines suffered from excessive wear or even seized when operating at high temperatures under high load (e.g. high speeds, towing).
In the 1980's the J300 cold weather specification was modified to require cold temperature tests ("Low-Temp Cranking" and "Low-Temp Pumping").
The SAE grade numbers are determined by the specific kinematic viscosity range (measured at 100°C) that a particular oil falls into. For example, a motor oil that has a kinematic viscosity of 10.4 cSt at 100°C will be classified as an SAE 30 grade oil since it falls within its viscosity range of 9.3 cSt to 12.5 cSt.
For the high-temperature viscosity grades, both minimum and maximum kinematic viscosity limits are given. However, for the low-temperature (“W”) grades, only the minimum kinematic viscosity limit is given because these grade numbers are primarily determined by the "Low-Temperature Cranking" and "Low-Temperature Pumping" apparent viscosity measured at a specified temperature and shear rate.
The Cold (Low-Temp) Cranking Viscosity test determines if an engine can be cranked over fast enough to start under extreme cold ambient conditions. "Cold Cranking Viscosity" affects the startability of engines in cold temperatures. Low cold cranking viscosities make for easier cold temperature cranking and starting, resulting in less engine wear and less drain on the battery.
The Cold Pumpability Viscosity test measures the resistance of an oil to pumping through the engine after a cold start. It is always conducted at 5°C colder than the Cold Cranking test to ensure the pump can deliver the oil to the bearings.
If an oil's viscosity becomes too high (if the oil is too thick), pumping will be hindered with possible cavitation issues. Viscosity here becomes an important factor in determining whether the engine runs with sufficient lubrication after starting in severe cold conditions.
From an engine durability perspective, the most important low temperature oil performance issue is pumping, to ensure that the oil can circulate after the engine fires. Oil that is too thick in these conditions can cause oil starvation which could result in significant wear in critical engine parts.
High-temperature/High-shear (HT/HS) Viscosity (measured at 150°C) is a measure of an oil's ability to retain its viscosity and resist shearing when an engine is operating under load at high-temperatures (in severe service conditions). It is designed to determine the apparent viscosity of an oil under conditions of high shear at high temperatures. The resulting viscosity is usually reported in units of "centipoise" (cP).
An oil’s film thickness can be severely affected when an engine is exposed to high temperatures and the high shearing forces that are created when an engine is operating under load. These high temperatures and shearing forces can cause an oil to thin out and lose its load carrying ability. An oil that is too thin under these conditions may not provide the needed lubricant protection, which could result in significant wear in these critical engine parts.
The oil’s apparent viscosity varies inversely with the rate of shear to which it has been subjected to, that is, as the rate of shear increases, the viscosity of the oil decreases (referred to as shear-thinning).
For more, see: ASTM Oil Evaluation Tests
Oil Grade Numbers
The Oil Viscosity Grade Numbers (e.g. the 10W and the 30 in 10W-30 multigrade oil) are a rating representing the "viscosity range" and the "viscosity limits" of the oil. They are NOT the actual viscosity of the oil.
As mentioned above, the viscosity of oil is temperature dependent. In other words, a particular grade of oil will have a different viscosity/thickness at different temperatures; and since viscosity varies with temperature, the temperature must be clearly specified in order to interpret the viscosity reading.
For example, let’s look at a 30 grade oil and how the viscosity of this grade of oil varies with temperature. At normal operating temperatures (100°C) it has a kinematic viscosity of around 10 cSt – which is optimal for most engines. But at 24°C (room/ambient temperature), it has a viscosity of around 250 cSt (which is way too thick).
Now let's consider a 10W grade oil and how the viscosity of this grade of oil varies with temperature. At normal operating temperatures (100°C) it has a viscosity of around 5 cSt (way too thin for a modern engine). But at 24°C, it has a viscosity of around 30 cSt (a lot better than 250).
In other words, what this means is that a 30 grade oil has pretty close to an ideal viscosity (around 10 cSt) at operating temperatures but is way too thick when cold (around 250 cSt) whereas a 10W grade oil has a more acceptable/desirable viscosity (around 30 cSt) when cold but is way too thin (around 5 cSt) at operating temperatures.
Multi-Grade oils
In order to address this problem, oil companies, in the 1940s, came up with "multi-grade" oils. The benefits of multi-grade oils when starting the engine at lower temperatures was immediately apparent to many car owners and the popularity of these engine oils grew rapidly.
Multi-grade oils made it possible for an oil to meet both the low-temperature and the high-temperature grade specs. Let's use a conventional (mineral based) SAE 10W-30 multigrade oil as our example.
Because a 10W grade oil becomes way too thin at normal operating temperatures (having a viscosity of around 5 cSt when it should be around 10 cSt) what the oil companies did to solve this problem is add "Viscosity Index Improvers" to it to prevent it from thinning as much as it normally would as it gets hotter. In other words, VII slow down the rate at which oil thins out as the temperature rises.
Now instead of having a viscosity of around 5 cSt when hot, it now has a viscosity of about 10 cSt (the same as an SAE 30). It still remains a 10W grade oil but now behaves like a 30 grade oil when hot.
Viscosity Index Improvers (VII) are large oil-soluble polymers made up of long-chain flexible molecules also referred to as "Viscosity Modifiers" (VM). One example of a VM polymer is an Olefin Co-polymer (OCP), which is a co-polymer of ethylene and propylene. A Polymethacrylate (PMA) is another example.
VM polymers expand and contract as temperatures vary. High temperatures cause them to expand and reduce oil thinning; low temps cause them to contract and have little impact on oil viscosity.
The downside to "mineral-based" multi-grade oils is that they require a lot more VII in order to meet the proper viscosity requirements. Problem is, the VII additive wears out (shears) over time, effectively reducing the oil’s viscosity, until the oil becomes too thin to provide adequate protection (which is one of the reasons that you need to change it more often than synthetic oil).
Synthetic oils, on the other hand, have a much higher native viscosity index than conventional oils and therefore need much lower levels of VII additive (in some cases, none at all) to increase their viscosity to the desired levels. As a result, they are able to maintain their viscosity for a much longer period of time and therefore don’t need to be changed as often.
LINK: What is Oil Viscosity Part 2: Oil Grades
Richard
In 1911 the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) created a numerical code graduated system (the SAE J300 Engine Oil Viscosity Classification) to classify motor oil according to their viscosity characteristics.
The SAE wanted a system that reflected the suitability of an oil for use as an engine lubricant and was easy for the consumer to understand. Before the SAE came up with the SAE J300 system, there was no simple way to tell how motor oil would behave in a hot engine.
Initially, the first version of the SAE J300 EOVC system defined five different numbered grades for motor oil (SAE 10, 20, 30, 40, and 50) based on flow rates (viscosities) measured at 100°C. By 1926 there were six grades of oil defined (SAE 10 through SAE 60).
Over the years, as shortcomings were identified, the SAE J300 system was amended numerous times. For instance, four SAE "W" (Winter) grades (SAE 10W, 15W, 20W, and 25W) were added in 1952, which were specified by viscosity measured at -18°C (0°F), as it became apparent that engines could not be started in very cold weather. Two more low-temperature grades (5W and 0W) would later be added.
In the early 1970's, minimum "High-Temperature/High-Shear" (HT/HS) specifications (measured at 150°C) were added when it became obvious that engines suffered from excessive wear or even seized when operating at high temperatures under high load (e.g. high speeds, towing).
In the 1980's the J300 cold weather specification was modified to require cold temperature tests ("Low-Temp Cranking" and "Low-Temp Pumping").
The SAE grade numbers are determined by the specific kinematic viscosity range (measured at 100°C) that a particular oil falls into. For example, a motor oil that has a kinematic viscosity of 10.4 cSt at 100°C will be classified as an SAE 30 grade oil since it falls within its viscosity range of 9.3 cSt to 12.5 cSt.
For the high-temperature viscosity grades, both minimum and maximum kinematic viscosity limits are given. However, for the low-temperature (“W”) grades, only the minimum kinematic viscosity limit is given because these grade numbers are primarily determined by the "Low-Temperature Cranking" and "Low-Temperature Pumping" apparent viscosity measured at a specified temperature and shear rate.
The Cold (Low-Temp) Cranking Viscosity test determines if an engine can be cranked over fast enough to start under extreme cold ambient conditions. "Cold Cranking Viscosity" affects the startability of engines in cold temperatures. Low cold cranking viscosities make for easier cold temperature cranking and starting, resulting in less engine wear and less drain on the battery.
The Cold Pumpability Viscosity test measures the resistance of an oil to pumping through the engine after a cold start. It is always conducted at 5°C colder than the Cold Cranking test to ensure the pump can deliver the oil to the bearings.
If an oil's viscosity becomes too high (if the oil is too thick), pumping will be hindered with possible cavitation issues. Viscosity here becomes an important factor in determining whether the engine runs with sufficient lubrication after starting in severe cold conditions.
From an engine durability perspective, the most important low temperature oil performance issue is pumping, to ensure that the oil can circulate after the engine fires. Oil that is too thick in these conditions can cause oil starvation which could result in significant wear in critical engine parts.
High-temperature/High-shear (HT/HS) Viscosity (measured at 150°C) is a measure of an oil's ability to retain its viscosity and resist shearing when an engine is operating under load at high-temperatures (in severe service conditions). It is designed to determine the apparent viscosity of an oil under conditions of high shear at high temperatures. The resulting viscosity is usually reported in units of "centipoise" (cP).
An oil’s film thickness can be severely affected when an engine is exposed to high temperatures and the high shearing forces that are created when an engine is operating under load. These high temperatures and shearing forces can cause an oil to thin out and lose its load carrying ability. An oil that is too thin under these conditions may not provide the needed lubricant protection, which could result in significant wear in these critical engine parts.
The oil’s apparent viscosity varies inversely with the rate of shear to which it has been subjected to, that is, as the rate of shear increases, the viscosity of the oil decreases (referred to as shear-thinning).
For more, see: ASTM Oil Evaluation Tests
Oil Grade Numbers
The Oil Viscosity Grade Numbers (e.g. the 10W and the 30 in 10W-30 multigrade oil) are a rating representing the "viscosity range" and the "viscosity limits" of the oil. They are NOT the actual viscosity of the oil.
As mentioned above, the viscosity of oil is temperature dependent. In other words, a particular grade of oil will have a different viscosity/thickness at different temperatures; and since viscosity varies with temperature, the temperature must be clearly specified in order to interpret the viscosity reading.
For example, let’s look at a 30 grade oil and how the viscosity of this grade of oil varies with temperature. At normal operating temperatures (100°C) it has a kinematic viscosity of around 10 cSt – which is optimal for most engines. But at 24°C (room/ambient temperature), it has a viscosity of around 250 cSt (which is way too thick).
Now let's consider a 10W grade oil and how the viscosity of this grade of oil varies with temperature. At normal operating temperatures (100°C) it has a viscosity of around 5 cSt (way too thin for a modern engine). But at 24°C, it has a viscosity of around 30 cSt (a lot better than 250).
In other words, what this means is that a 30 grade oil has pretty close to an ideal viscosity (around 10 cSt) at operating temperatures but is way too thick when cold (around 250 cSt) whereas a 10W grade oil has a more acceptable/desirable viscosity (around 30 cSt) when cold but is way too thin (around 5 cSt) at operating temperatures.
Multi-Grade oils
In order to address this problem, oil companies, in the 1940s, came up with "multi-grade" oils. The benefits of multi-grade oils when starting the engine at lower temperatures was immediately apparent to many car owners and the popularity of these engine oils grew rapidly.
Multi-grade oils made it possible for an oil to meet both the low-temperature and the high-temperature grade specs. Let's use a conventional (mineral based) SAE 10W-30 multigrade oil as our example.
Because a 10W grade oil becomes way too thin at normal operating temperatures (having a viscosity of around 5 cSt when it should be around 10 cSt) what the oil companies did to solve this problem is add "Viscosity Index Improvers" to it to prevent it from thinning as much as it normally would as it gets hotter. In other words, VII slow down the rate at which oil thins out as the temperature rises.
Now instead of having a viscosity of around 5 cSt when hot, it now has a viscosity of about 10 cSt (the same as an SAE 30). It still remains a 10W grade oil but now behaves like a 30 grade oil when hot.
Viscosity Index Improvers (VII) are large oil-soluble polymers made up of long-chain flexible molecules also referred to as "Viscosity Modifiers" (VM). One example of a VM polymer is an Olefin Co-polymer (OCP), which is a co-polymer of ethylene and propylene. A Polymethacrylate (PMA) is another example.
VM polymers expand and contract as temperatures vary. High temperatures cause them to expand and reduce oil thinning; low temps cause them to contract and have little impact on oil viscosity.
The downside to "mineral-based" multi-grade oils is that they require a lot more VII in order to meet the proper viscosity requirements. Problem is, the VII additive wears out (shears) over time, effectively reducing the oil’s viscosity, until the oil becomes too thin to provide adequate protection (which is one of the reasons that you need to change it more often than synthetic oil).
Synthetic oils, on the other hand, have a much higher native viscosity index than conventional oils and therefore need much lower levels of VII additive (in some cases, none at all) to increase their viscosity to the desired levels. As a result, they are able to maintain their viscosity for a much longer period of time and therefore don’t need to be changed as often.
LINK: What is Oil Viscosity Part 2: Oil Grades
Richard
What Viscosity Grade should you use in your KIA?
All vehicle manufacturers today recommend the use of 'multi-grade' oils. To find out which grade is recommended for your particular vehicle, you should consult the owner’s manual. The recommended oil grade will also usually be printed on the oil filler cap. Now the manual might list only one grade of oil for use in all temperature ranges, or it might list a few different grades of oil to choose from based on ambient temperatures.
For example, the Owner’s Manual for my 2014 Sorento EX (3.3L non-turbo V6) states: "For better fuel economy, it is recommended to use the engine oil of a viscosity grade SAE 5W-30 [although 5W-20 would actually be better for fuel economy] API SM/ILSAC GF-4 [API SN/ILSAC GF-5 are now the latest specs]. However, if the engine oil is not available in your country, select the proper engine oil using the engine oil viscosity chart." The 'viscosity chart' lists two other acceptable oil grades (SAE 5W-20 and SAE 5W-40).
From p.8-8 in the 2014-15 Owners Manual:
![Image]()
Now because these are the grades of oil KIA recommends, does this mean that they are the only grades that can be used in this engine? Well, not exactly.
In my Sorento, I currently use SAE 0W-20 oil in the winter and SAE 0W-30 oil in the summer (although I could use either viscosity year-round). Note: I live in Northern Ontario, Canada - it gets very cold up here in the winter (below -40°C) - thus the 0W-20 grade for winter.
As mentioned in my previous post on "Oil Viscosity Grades", the viscosity grade numbers (i.e. the '5W' and the '30' in a SAE 5W-30 oil) are simply a rating representing the "viscosity range" of the oil. They are NOT the actual viscosity of the oil. The viscosity of an oil is temperature dependent - a particular grade of oil will have a different viscosity/thickness at different temperatures.
For a SAE 5W-30 multi-grade oil, the first number (5W) is the 'cold' viscosity rating of the oil, the ‘W’ stands for winter, and the last number (30) is the 'hot' viscosity rating of the oil. Therefore, when the oil is cold (e.g. in sub-zero temperatures) it has a rating of '5W'. When the oil is hot (e.g. circulating in a hot engine) it has a rating of '30'.
What this means is that a 0W-30, a 5W-30, and a 10W-30 multi-grade oil will all have essentially the same viscosity (thickness) when circulating in a hot engine (about 10 cSt at 100°C) but will have a completely different viscosity when cold. It is the second number (30) that will determine the thickness of the oil at operating temperatures not the first number.
In other words, all three grades will offer the exact same protection when your engine is at "operating temperature", but the grades with a lower 'xW' number will flow better when the engine is cold. Because a 0W-xx multi-grade remains more 'fluid' in colder temperatures than a 5W-xx, having a much lower 'Cold Cranking Viscosity' and 'Cold Pumping Viscosity', the oil will get up into the engine more quickly upon start-up, therefore minimizing engine start-up wear. It will also reach the proper 'hot' viscosity faster, further minimizing wear.
Looking at it another way, a 5W-30 multi-grade and a 0W-30 multi-grade will both have the same 'thin' viscosity when circulating in a hot engine, but as the engine cools down, the 5W rated oil will 'thicken' a lot more, and a lot faster, than the 0W rated oil.
It's also important to understand that at "ambient temperatures" (even HIGH ambient temps), ALL grades of oil are too thick/viscous (yes, even a 0W grade is too thick). In other words, a 0W grade is thicker at ambient temps than a 30 grade is at operating temps. It is only after the engine warms up, heating up the oil, that the oil reaches its proper 'hot' viscosity.
It is said that over 75% of engine wear occurs at start-up when the engine is cold (and in the 10-20 minutes after start-up while the engine is warming-up). Extended idling (e.g. warming up your vehicle in the winter) will also accelerate wear. Therefore, if you are interested in engine longevity, you should focus on reducing and minimizing this start-up wear. And the best way to accomplish this is by choosing a multi-grade oil with a lower 'cold' viscosity number that will flow better and get up faster into the engine.
(I strongly recommend the use of an engine block heater in sub-zero temps. The faster the engine and oil get to operating temperature, the better.)
![Image]()
Below is an example of the temperature range of different oil grades:
Note: The chart above doesn't show a SAE 0W-20 or 5W-20 grade, however, based on this chart, the temperature range of a 0W-20 multi-grade would be "-40°C to +30°C" and a 5W-20 would be "-35°C to +30°C".
Therefore, the question as to which oil viscosity grade can or should be used in your car’s engine will depend, among other things, on the type of climate you will be driving in - if you live in a very hot climate you could, if you wanted to, use a higher viscosity grade oil (10W-40 for instance), and if you live in a much colder climate you could choose a lower viscosity grade oil (0W-20 for instance). However, the recommended viscosity grades should do just fine in all climates.
![Image]()
Richard
All vehicle manufacturers today recommend the use of 'multi-grade' oils. To find out which grade is recommended for your particular vehicle, you should consult the owner’s manual. The recommended oil grade will also usually be printed on the oil filler cap. Now the manual might list only one grade of oil for use in all temperature ranges, or it might list a few different grades of oil to choose from based on ambient temperatures.
For example, the Owner’s Manual for my 2014 Sorento EX (3.3L non-turbo V6) states: "For better fuel economy, it is recommended to use the engine oil of a viscosity grade SAE 5W-30 [although 5W-20 would actually be better for fuel economy] API SM/ILSAC GF-4 [API SN/ILSAC GF-5 are now the latest specs]. However, if the engine oil is not available in your country, select the proper engine oil using the engine oil viscosity chart." The 'viscosity chart' lists two other acceptable oil grades (SAE 5W-20 and SAE 5W-40).
From p.8-8 in the 2014-15 Owners Manual:
Now because these are the grades of oil KIA recommends, does this mean that they are the only grades that can be used in this engine? Well, not exactly.
In my Sorento, I currently use SAE 0W-20 oil in the winter and SAE 0W-30 oil in the summer (although I could use either viscosity year-round). Note: I live in Northern Ontario, Canada - it gets very cold up here in the winter (below -40°C) - thus the 0W-20 grade for winter.
As mentioned in my previous post on "Oil Viscosity Grades", the viscosity grade numbers (i.e. the '5W' and the '30' in a SAE 5W-30 oil) are simply a rating representing the "viscosity range" of the oil. They are NOT the actual viscosity of the oil. The viscosity of an oil is temperature dependent - a particular grade of oil will have a different viscosity/thickness at different temperatures.
For a SAE 5W-30 multi-grade oil, the first number (5W) is the 'cold' viscosity rating of the oil, the ‘W’ stands for winter, and the last number (30) is the 'hot' viscosity rating of the oil. Therefore, when the oil is cold (e.g. in sub-zero temperatures) it has a rating of '5W'. When the oil is hot (e.g. circulating in a hot engine) it has a rating of '30'.
What this means is that a 0W-30, a 5W-30, and a 10W-30 multi-grade oil will all have essentially the same viscosity (thickness) when circulating in a hot engine (about 10 cSt at 100°C) but will have a completely different viscosity when cold. It is the second number (30) that will determine the thickness of the oil at operating temperatures not the first number.
In other words, all three grades will offer the exact same protection when your engine is at "operating temperature", but the grades with a lower 'xW' number will flow better when the engine is cold. Because a 0W-xx multi-grade remains more 'fluid' in colder temperatures than a 5W-xx, having a much lower 'Cold Cranking Viscosity' and 'Cold Pumping Viscosity', the oil will get up into the engine more quickly upon start-up, therefore minimizing engine start-up wear. It will also reach the proper 'hot' viscosity faster, further minimizing wear.
Looking at it another way, a 5W-30 multi-grade and a 0W-30 multi-grade will both have the same 'thin' viscosity when circulating in a hot engine, but as the engine cools down, the 5W rated oil will 'thicken' a lot more, and a lot faster, than the 0W rated oil.
It's also important to understand that at "ambient temperatures" (even HIGH ambient temps), ALL grades of oil are too thick/viscous (yes, even a 0W grade is too thick). In other words, a 0W grade is thicker at ambient temps than a 30 grade is at operating temps. It is only after the engine warms up, heating up the oil, that the oil reaches its proper 'hot' viscosity.
It is said that over 75% of engine wear occurs at start-up when the engine is cold (and in the 10-20 minutes after start-up while the engine is warming-up). Extended idling (e.g. warming up your vehicle in the winter) will also accelerate wear. Therefore, if you are interested in engine longevity, you should focus on reducing and minimizing this start-up wear. And the best way to accomplish this is by choosing a multi-grade oil with a lower 'cold' viscosity number that will flow better and get up faster into the engine.
(I strongly recommend the use of an engine block heater in sub-zero temps. The faster the engine and oil get to operating temperature, the better.)
Below is an example of the temperature range of different oil grades:
Note: The chart above doesn't show a SAE 0W-20 or 5W-20 grade, however, based on this chart, the temperature range of a 0W-20 multi-grade would be "-40°C to +30°C" and a 5W-20 would be "-35°C to +30°C".
Therefore, the question as to which oil viscosity grade can or should be used in your car’s engine will depend, among other things, on the type of climate you will be driving in - if you live in a very hot climate you could, if you wanted to, use a higher viscosity grade oil (10W-40 for instance), and if you live in a much colder climate you could choose a lower viscosity grade oil (0W-20 for instance). However, the recommended viscosity grades should do just fine in all climates.
Richard
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