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Transmission flush

7.3K views 35 replies 12 participants last post by  wlobo  
#1 ·
Local service place doesn't do tranny drain and fill. Only does fluid flush . They have been around a long long time. They only use maker approved fluid, valvoline. Price $169. Stealership recommended it for $250 Starting to make whine when accelerating and not coming from belts. Any reson not to let local station do it. Too old to be crawling under sorento myself .
 
#2 ·
Lots of sources for a whine, and that isn't something you'd likely ever hear from a belt. More likely a bearing (e.g., idler, or on alternator, or ...). Diagnosis sounds a little sloppy if revving the engine in the driveway can produce it.

What's your mileage? Driving habits? Any towing?

Prefer the fluid 'replacement' technique, which sounds like what they are offering, better than a drain/fill which, unless done a couple of times back to back, leaves a lot of the old junk in.
 
#3 ·
I wouldn’t have any issues with doing that under 100k miles even though personally I went with a lot of drain/refills. Valvoline’ a ATF hasn’t given me trouble either.

That being said, I would get another diagnosis, dealers like to shotgun tangentially-related fixes at problems on customer’s dime.
 
#4 ·
50000 miles. No towing. I do tend to drive too hard once in a while. Whine doesn't happen in park or neutral when revving, only in drive when accelerating. Can't get in til middle of july so plenty of time . With the continued increases in price and markups, I will be keeping my sorento for a while yet.
 
#30 ·
50000 miles. No towing. I do tend to drive too hard once in a while. Whine doesn't happen in park or neutral when revving, only in drive when accelerating. Can't get in til middle of july so plenty of time . With the continued increases in price and markups, I will be keeping my sorento for a while yet.
The whine is unlikely to be the auto transmission, and if I were to guess I'd say it's the Power Transfer Case (PTU).

On my vehicle I do three Drain&Fill's every 45K miles on the auto transmission and gear oil change in the PTU every 30 to 40K miles using Amsoil.

KIA Sorento AWD Transfer Case & Differential Service - YouTube
 
#5 ·
If you don't even tow, I don't see why your ATF couldn't last til 100k miles. You can't be driving your Sorento like a race car, can you? ;)

Just have the shop try to diagnose where the whine is coming from? Of course hopefully they won't charge you $200 just to diagnose the issue...
 
#8 ·
Well, the severe service schedule dictates 60k miles for a number of “severe” conditions not just towing like 5-10 mile short tripping, unpaved, heavy traffic, high ambient temperatures, uphill, downhill, etc.

Anyone have thoughts on a Valvoline oil change facility handling a trans flush?
It’ll probably depend on the specific shop itself, I’d be a little apprehensive if it was a Valvoline Instant Oil Change but might as well get quotes from different shops. If you have a Costco membership you might be able to snag a discount too.
 
#7 ·
I'm happier with them compared to Jiffy Lube. However, I've only used them for oil changes and nothing else. I'm sure most DIYers here probably would never use those services at all? :p

My local Kia dealership actually costs a bit cheaper to do oil changes and about the same for other fluid changes. Dealer also throw in a car wash as well. So I don't really go to Valvoline anymore. The only drawback at the dealership is that they are a lot slower! :p
 
#9 · (Edited)
I would like the details on what the 'instant oil change flush" entails. There is no dipstick, you can't get a suction hose down into the pan from fill port. The drain plug only drains 50% of the fluid as the other 50% is in torque converter, pump and valves. So a 100% flush would have to open the two oil fittings on the tranny heat exchanger (in and out) then start the engine to activate tranny fluid pump , add clean fluid till the fluid exiting the tranny shows visibly clean new color. I doubt a quick oil change technician has that skill.

See two pics below, Pic 1 the cooler is actually called the 'Warmer' as it heats up the fluid when tranny is cold. But then cools it with hot radiator coolant as fluid gets hotter.
The second pic 2 shows the Warmer position on the tranny. Note the fittings (number 7) are solid metal tubing between the Tranny and Warmer, something I would not think a quick change shop to messing with. If they do have a trained mechanic and applicable equipment, then it's a different story. That skill usually runs in a transmission shop only.



 
#10 ·
My shop that does most of my automotive work when it's beyond me, won't even do the transmission fluid on the Sorento, saying let the dealer have that business. It's not just Kia, they don't do any of the modern car automatics apparently too many ways to screw up a $5,000 transmission. I'll do the drain and fill myself a couple of times and call it good.
 
#11 ·
i agree.. since only 50% comes out the drain plug...... drain then add a gallon 50% replaced -- run a few miles drain then add a gallon now 75% replaced , if you have OCD run a few miles drain then add a gallon now 87.25% replaced ... you will rairly ever see anyone get 100% replacement.
 
#12 ·
FWIW - I watched YT vids to get a handle on doing the change because of the lack of dipstick to verify when its full on refill and I don't completely trust just blindly adding a specified amount that may not be 100% accurate for each person who drains and measures. The process also requires an initial fill, starting the car (and technically drive it around) to get the fluid up to a KIA specified temp, and doing the usual shifting between gears. One video highly recommends using a thermal temp gun to verify the accurate temp has been reached. Then you need to add a bit more fluid to top off and also look at a small window in front of transmission (under the car) to verify level accuracy & also visualize a slow steady seepage of fluid, then tighten/close off its bolt. I did this ~ a year ago at about 60k miles. I was able to use my friend's lift making the job easier and ensures the car is level, but I tell you it was still an nuisance process. While doing this, I also exchanged the grease in my differential.) I did not drive the car around but did run the engine to get it to approx. operating temp; I did not go buy a thermal gun that I would not likely use again soon. Given that it would really take 3 gravity drains and refills (if just using the prescribed transmission drain bolt), I am not going to do it manually again. My local dealer provides a complete pressure drain and fill by machine. Respectable transmission places will charge a comparable or greater amount for a multi drain gravity and refill that will take a fair amount of time and likely does not include driving several miles between each, as is ideal. There is some controversy about the risk of damage to seals or something else with the pressure change method and that is likely one reason other transmission shops and mechanics won't do it that way but also don't relish the time it takes to do multiple gravity drain and refills, etc. I probably will eventually do a complete fluid exchange at the dealership (after a clear convo. with their service manager and/or transmission tech) expecting that they will be forced to stand behind their work if a problem develops in a couple years. I am watching for shop work discounts that they offer a few times a year that may save $20-30.
-Doug
 
#13 ·
@The D of W
Not sure what is meant here by a "pressure change".

The alternative to the drain/fill/wrinse/repeat is a device that allows the transmission's own pump to push out the old fluid into the device's waste reservoir while drawing in new fluid from the device's supply side. Since it's own pump does the work, there is no unusual pressure involved. The device is installed inline between the transmission cooling line and the coolor inlet on the radiator or wherever else a given vehicle manages the cooling of the ATF. These aren't always easy to access, so it takes a shop with some knowhow to do it properly.

Where possible, this is my preferred method as it does a much more complete job of fluid exchange in a much shorter time.
 
#15 ·
@The D of W
Not sure what is meant here by a "pressure change".

The alternative to the drain/fill/wrinse/repeat is a device that allows the transmission's own pump to push out the old fluid into the device's waste reservoir while drawing in new fluid from the device's supply side. Since it's own pump does the work, there is no unusual pressure involved. The device is installed inline between the transmission cooling line and the coolor inlet on the radiator or wherever else a given vehicle manages the cooling of the ATF. These aren't always easy to access, so it takes a shop with some knowhow to do it properly.

Where possible, this is my preferred method as it does a much more complete job of fluid exchange in a much shorter time.
This is the correct name of the procedure you want done.
A flush usually means an external pump to push fluid through the trans. It also means it can dislodge dirt and deposit it in places not friendly to valve bodies.
The drain/fill has been a long accepted practice from KIA.
 
#14 ·
I think the world does not have a clear definition of what a transmission flush is. What ecanderson states above (post #13) is what I understand is a flush, using the tranny pump to push out the old while feeding the new back in. However there is a process on dipstick equipped transmission vehicles to insert a tube in the dip stick and vacuum out the old fluid (similar to a Walmart oil change). The machine measures what it vacuums out and then pumps back an equal amount of new fluid. It is all machine controlled, no human intervention required. There are some who are not comfortable with the vacuum/pump in process and say it may cause seal problems in the tranny. I have no knowledge or interest in this procedure, so I can't comment. But I do believe they call it a flush... but our Sorento transmission do not have dipsticks or easy access to the transmission oil pan so it will not work..

Summing up since doing a valid flush on these Sorento's is not really and easy DIY due to the in/out cooling lines hard connected using metal tubing. For us that do not ever want to see a dealer shop the drain/repeat is the best alternative.
 
#17 ·
After further searching flush with cleaner generally not recommend vs drain and fill. Will probably cancel appoint. What do you guys think of dealership doing this flush with or without cleaner process ? At 72 with bad back I will not chance it myself.
 
#19 ·
The local shop by me stated they add cleaner first and then full exchange after by hooking up to fittings or hoses. The fact that they never looked at engine bay to be sure is giving me pause. Don't want to screw up any warranty protection.
dealership recommended transmission fluid service $249. Not necessary according to service manual at only 50,000 but peace of mind might be worth it. Not sure of there process, would have to call and ask.



1 of many different sites.
.
Flo Dynamics TSD450LCD Automatic menu driven ATF exchanger with Inline & Dipstick modes.
 
#27 ·
#29 ·
View attachment 129253

  • Notes: 19 Bolt Pan. Caution: Transmission disassembly is required to install this transmission filter
Drain & Fill or Flush does not include "Transmission Disassembly" and the quotes you got definitely did not include that.

What are you looking to do?
 
#36 ·
After reading all the replies here and more research online I canceled my appointment early last week. Will have dealership check it at next oil change as i don't want to screw up the 10 yr. warranty. It may be just my hearing as I have really bad tinnitus and hear higher pitch and low noises others don't. Got rid of my stereo system many years ago because of humming from bass speaker even when not in use. Nobody else heard it but it drove me crazy.
As you stated (
) sounds like if there is a problem that would be one of the first place .
Thanks for all the replies