[Habanero64]

I watched a youtube video a few months ago where a professional mechanic in a shop was trying to do the same thing as you are. He was using a puller tool, and pounded the $hit out of the frozen axle with a sledge hammer, trying to get it to move out of the hub. After what he said was a couple of hours of trying, the axle finally did free up. The bad news however was that the pounding also ruined the axle, and had to be replaced as well.

With that in mind, you might want to pop the other end of the axle out of the transmission, and remove everything else that's connected to the spindle. Then, if you take that whole thing to a machine shop, I'm thinking that perhaps they might have the tools that it would take to remove the axle from the hub without destroying either one. But it might be best to call them, just to avoid a wasted trip if they can't do something like that.

I thought about trying that, but the cost would probably be not that much less than a new or decent reman CV shaft, plus the bother of installing a new shaft, so I might as well try to remove it while still in the tranny using the sledge hammer/ push pin method. At worst it either doesn't work, or works but ruins the axle.

What I'm wondering if doing this with the knuckle and wheel still on (and the wheels turned a bit to get the CV joint at an angle, so there's some play for the axle end to move in) is a good idea, or could cause damage to something.

 

[Habanero64]

I think any movement would probably take place at the CV joints.

So, no risk in trying this approach? It would not only save me some potentially unnecessary disassembly if the axle stays stuck, but I imagine would allow more of the impact to go to the axle instead of the suspension since the weight of the car will keep the wheel and thus hub in place.

 

[Habanero64]

The hub is pressed into the bearing and the hub comes out from the rim side. So a good pounding on the CV joint shaft end thru the hub is NOT going to move the hub. From all you posted, plan on replacing the drive flange(hub) and outer CV joint along with the axle bearing. IF you had been hammering(or pulling) against the drive flange(hub), chances are that it is slightly bent and will cause "wobbles" in rotation on reassembly...BTDT on a few different cars with same "seizing" problem.

I recently did the passenger side so I know how it all fits together, and was planning on replacing both the bearing and hub, in fact I already bought a Timken kit consisting of a new bearing, hub, snap ring and castle nut, so I'm good there.

But I didn't realize that all this pounding, pushing and pulling could also damage the outer part of the CV shaft, and might require that it too be replaced.

How would I know if it needed replacement, e.g. bent axle, mushroomed end, bad threads, and if it did need replacement, could I replace just the outer part, or should I replace the whole (driver side) shaft all the way to the transaxle?

 

[Habanero64]

Cost of complete shafts with both CV joints has come down in price dramatically over the years, It used to be that it was less costly to replace a CV joint than replace whole axle... That is your call to make when you do get the outer joint to release from the drive hub seizure(rust). But since that section is part of the outer CV joint, I'll wager that by the time you do get it to come apart that the joint will need to be replaced from all the pounding on it. Nice to hear that you already got the "bearing kit" with the new drive hub, did you get it thru rockauto? I did that with our daughters Spectra a few months ago, and the price thru them was very reasonable!

Given the pounding that the axle end has taken (it's definitely mushroomed and I can no longer slip the original axle nut over it), and that the tone ring has somehow come off and can't be secured back on, at least while on the car, it seems like I really do need to replace it.

A quick check shows a complete driver's side driveshaft with CV joint and included axle nut (which can run nearly $10) at around $60-$70 after tax & shipping. That's not too bad.

The hub & bearing kit ran around $65 IIRC at Amazon, so the total cost of replacing the driveshaft, axle nut, hub, bearing & snap ring should be around $125, which is way less than it would cost in a shop. Like, hundreds less.

Will I need to drain and refill the tranny fluid when I replace the shaft or are there any other parts, special tools or procedures involved? I already have the complete service manual and it appears to cover this fully, but based on past experience they leave stuff out, probably because they figure that mostly mechs will be reading it and they know how to "fill in the blanks".

I still have to get the old axle out of the old hub. I guess I could get a new knuckle and dust shield, but I'd probably need to go to a junkyard to find out and I'd rather not. Given that I'm getting a new shaft, I could just pound the crap out of the old one and not worry about more mushrooming (though too much might make it too wide to slip through the old hub).

 

[Habanero64]

When I did our Spectra( and many other make FWD's) I jack up the side I'm working on to leave car at an angle(on jack stands). IF there is any spillage of fluid, it is minimal at worst. You do know about popping the ball joint stud from the knuckle to have clearance to swing the axle shaft out once you get the outer CV freed of the hub, as you did the other side already. Nope there are not any special tricks to pull the axle assy. out, just a goodly size screwdriver(or similar) to pop the inner joint from the trans, it's just a "C" ring on the drive stub that contracts at a quick "pop" releasing the joint from the trans. I GUARANTEE it will come out much easier than the outer end is doing to you!

If by "popping the ball joint stud from the knuckle" you mean removing the two bolts that connect the lower control arm ball joint to the knuckle, then yes, I know about that. It's a bit of a struggle to get them back on, but with some finagling it's not that bad. First time at anything is always a learning experience and the next time around things usually go much faster and smoother.

Well, except for this dang axle.

Btw, I'm pricing out a new CV shaft and there are a bunch of options. The one I'm leaning towards is the Cardone 66-3448. Brand new, no core to pay more for initially or ship back, and comes with a new axle nut and ABS ring. It's $93 at Amazon marketplace, $57 at Auto Parts Warehouse, and $45 at CARiD. Is this a good brand, and is CARiD a reputable vendor? At less than half of what Amazon wants, I've got to wonder if they're legit.

 

[Habanero64]

Our 09 Spectra has a "pinch bolt/nut" on the knuckle to remove and then pry down the LCA, thus separating it from the knuckle. Not sure just how your Rio is designed. I have heard both good and bad of "Carid", I prefer rockauto for my needs, I've never had trouble with them for 6 other makes that I have to maintain in the family.

I actually have a similar to your problem with my 98 Avenger coupe with the outer CV's hub shaft seized, but the bearing is good, so I just put it all back together and will fuss with it WHEN the need arises. Being so old, some parts for it are getting hard to find especially when a hybrid Dodge/Mitsubishi product that it is!

With the Rio there's a ball joint "pivot arm" that connects to the lower control arm. The joint bolt is in its center and there are 2 bolt holes on either side that connect to the knuckle. No need to remove the center bolt from the ball joint (unless you're replacing that part) to get the knuckle off, just the 2 side bolts.

Funny, I've heard both good and bad about Rockauto, that they sometimes ship the wrong part and you have to pay for return shipping or refuse to take the item back. I checked CARiD and they seem to be well-rated on the better-known ratings sites. I'll probably buy from them as it's slightly cheaper.

Btw, how do you suggest I get the old shaft off the hub once it's out of the tranny? Should I take it to a press shop? I still need the knuckle to complete the job.

Incidentally, I also have a DSM car, a '92 Eagle Talon, that's been sitting in a driveway for several years with a bad clutch and synchro (and due to its sitting for so long now also has seized calipers, and the battery died long ago).

With the experience I'm getting working on the Rio (also my mom's Camry), I'm thinking of tackling the cluch and synchro replacement, but not till spring as it's going to be too cold and miserable to work under a car here soon. Is this a job one can do, or is it best left to pros? The calipers I'm sure I can fix or replace.