Circled sensor looks like MAP

 

I removed it, and cleaned with MAF cleaner ... was that OK. That is, did that cause any damage?
I am assuming 'no'...

 

It'll be fine, they don't get too dirty as they are getting air only after engine air filter.

 

Does this type of MAP sensor need to be cleaned regularly? It seemed a bit oily but generally clean.

 

You can clean it once a year or two, they are easy to access.
I'd suggest you check pcv valve annually thou, replace every 2-3 years, they are also easy to access and cheap on Rockauto.

 

My vehicle is about 29mos old, so right in that area. Do you have a link for locating the and/or replacement of the PCC valve, by chance.

I'm trying to do things at this 66k and 29mo point that will help. It's always had regular maintenance, but there's not much other than fuel, oil, tires and filters. Brake job soon I think...

 

Here is your PCV:

here is the part on Rockauto: More Information for BECK/ARNLEY 0450404


Personally, I'd do ATF drain and fill, transfer case and rear diff oil changes, may be start thinking of spark plugs as those engines are hard on them.

 

Thank you very much for the suggestions. I did figure out that was the PVC (as per your edit of my photo) and I replaced that today. The old one was probably fine and functional, but $30 (local parts store) in preventative fix is ok for me. I know for sure I need brakes in the next 10,000 miles or less. Transmission and differentials makes sense also.

 

Both transfer case and rear drive module take 90W Hypoid gear oil. In a colder climate I would be likely to use synthetic 75W-90. In fact, that's probably an excellent replacement in any climate.

 

Is that what the owners manual specifies?

 

Some dealer's repair departments seem to push pretty hard to flush & fill the brake system, even starting at like 25k or 33k. Allegedly to make sure there is no water in the system. But.... I thought the recommended fluid was hydrophobic by nature, and this is a closed loop. That recommendation seems highly unnecessary, and likely just a way to pad a service order to me... Any one have any thoughts?

(As I've said, I do need new brakes very soon, and of course most of all the fluid would be replaced at that time).

 

IMHO 75w-90 synth will work great.

 

Thing is, what's best for gas mileage isn't always best for component longevity.

 

Swap brake fluid when you change out pads/rotors. It is hydroscopic so it can absorb water, this lowering the boiling point. But the system is closed. Just replace with new fluid, not something you’ve had sitting around. Harbor Front sells a great little vacuum blender kit that hooks to your air compressor. Turns it into a quicker one man job.