I bought a new LX 2.4L in 2013. It did not come with the factory fog lights. Since that time I did get a pair and installed them in the bumper insert location. Has anyone done this with the pigtail jumped off the parking light feed wires? Would this be OK or should I run a relay? My test light shows the parking light 12+ wire out of the headlight connector as being green.
markpack007
The schematics show the front fog lights when installed come from IPS#6 (smart circuit breaker thingie), they are 2x 27W bulbs so that is a rating of about 4½ amps for the both. Low beam is off another pair of IPS's (#0 and #4 , not shown on this diagram). As these IPS have current sensing circuitry and they could trip with the extra load, but you might be lucky to get away with it by sharing the load and tapping each fog lamp into the respective (left and right) low beam wiring.
It it was me I'd install a relay and use one of the low beam lines to trigger the relay windings and run the relays main contacts via a fuse to the an appropriate point on the battery or main fuse box.
It it was me I'd install a relay and use one of the low beam lines to trigger the relay windings and run the relays main contacts via a fuse to the an appropriate point on the battery or main fuse box.
I agree with barry.
While the stock wiring may allow you to connect the new fogs to existing wiring (maybe), it is not recommended. With all of the electronic components in vehicles these days, it is never worth the risk to try and steal power from somewhere else. Connecting directly to the battery is definitely the safest and most efficient way to do so.
While the stock wiring may allow you to connect the new fogs to existing wiring (maybe), it is not recommended. With all of the electronic components in vehicles these days, it is never worth the risk to try and steal power from somewhere else. Connecting directly to the battery is definitely the safest and most efficient way to do so.
A relay is pretty simple, the idea is to have a coil triggered by a low current source so that it pulls a contact on a higher current load. There's a zillion different types, some might have added things like inbuilt fuses, "rest contacts" or "fly-back diodes" but they all work on the same principle. To make life a little easier a standard was produced years ago and the majority of relays still use that numbering scheme for the relay contacts.
Here's one that I use a lot as it has the fuse built in that saves a bit on wiring:
So the coil contacts are 85 and 86, and the heavy duty contacts are 30 and 87. Its good practice to have the +ve of your activating wire on pin 86 (this is the wire you'd connect into the cars low beam wire) and the -ve on (usually an earth) on pin 85. Also the main heavy duty +ve (that would come from the battery +ve post in a lot of setups) is connected to pin 30, the last relay pin (87) goes of to the loads (your fog lights). Some relays make it easy for you and have two pin 87s so there is a connector for each light. To complete the setup the other wire on your lights goes to a good earth (or even back to your battery -ve post if that's a better/closer point).
The normal automotive relays can handle 30amps (thats about 360watts) so as long as your fog lights don't have a combined rating of that then one relay can be used for both lights. You might want to think about a switch to turn off the lights otherwise they will be on all the time your low beam lights are on. I would place this switch on the wire coming off pin 85, that way you wire from the relay, into the switch, out of the switch and just need to find a chassis earth - i.e. you don't need to go back to the relay or the battery.
Here's something from the web that shows most of what I mentioned, the only difference is the on/off switch, he has it in the pin 86 lead, my preference is to switch pin 85. The reason I like it my way is there is less wiring and if anything shorts with this switch wiring it won't blow the low beam fuse.
I'd suggest getting a mate who knows this stuff to go over it with you just to make sure its all okay.
Just for future reference, here is a couple of other relay configurations, as mentioned they all have the same basics, just with additional bits. Note: Changeover Relays with pin 87a (i.e. S4), don't get them confused with those with two pin 87s (i.e. S1):
Here's one that I use a lot as it has the fuse built in that saves a bit on wiring:
So the coil contacts are 85 and 86, and the heavy duty contacts are 30 and 87. Its good practice to have the +ve of your activating wire on pin 86 (this is the wire you'd connect into the cars low beam wire) and the -ve on (usually an earth) on pin 85. Also the main heavy duty +ve (that would come from the battery +ve post in a lot of setups) is connected to pin 30, the last relay pin (87) goes of to the loads (your fog lights). Some relays make it easy for you and have two pin 87s so there is a connector for each light. To complete the setup the other wire on your lights goes to a good earth (or even back to your battery -ve post if that's a better/closer point).
The normal automotive relays can handle 30amps (thats about 360watts) so as long as your fog lights don't have a combined rating of that then one relay can be used for both lights. You might want to think about a switch to turn off the lights otherwise they will be on all the time your low beam lights are on. I would place this switch on the wire coming off pin 85, that way you wire from the relay, into the switch, out of the switch and just need to find a chassis earth - i.e. you don't need to go back to the relay or the battery.
Here's something from the web that shows most of what I mentioned, the only difference is the on/off switch, he has it in the pin 86 lead, my preference is to switch pin 85. The reason I like it my way is there is less wiring and if anything shorts with this switch wiring it won't blow the low beam fuse.
I'd suggest getting a mate who knows this stuff to go over it with you just to make sure its all okay.
Just for future reference, here is a couple of other relay configurations, as mentioned they all have the same basics, just with additional bits. Note: Changeover Relays with pin 87a (i.e. S4), don't get them confused with those with two pin 87s (i.e. S1):
The 85/86 can be a lighter gauge, the main contacts (30/87) need to carry the full current of the load, i.e. the lights themselves. There is also the issues of how far you are running the lines (as there will be some loss of voltage in the wire) and whether the wiring is next to a heat source such as the engine block or exhaust.
There a number of versions of this chart getting around but they are all pretty similar:
For what you are planing with relatively low wattage beams I'd recommend 16g for the relay winding (85/86) and 14 or 12 for the lights (30/87)
There a number of versions of this chart getting around but they are all pretty similar:
For what you are planing with relatively low wattage beams I'd recommend 16g for the relay winding (85/86) and 14 or 12 for the lights (30/87)
Hi All,
That was a very good info thanks for that Barry, in a simple question related, where is the best place to insert the wire thru the firewall? I cannot find a grommet where I can insert wire for switch(another question as to where to locate the switch ....a better /best place.) Trying to avoid drilling hole, there is no blank like other cars. I'm planning to install a light bar .
Thanks
Ceasar
That was a very good info thanks for that Barry, in a simple question related, where is the best place to insert the wire thru the firewall? I cannot find a grommet where I can insert wire for switch(another question as to where to locate the switch ....a better /best place.) Trying to avoid drilling hole, there is no blank like other cars. I'm planning to install a light bar .
Thanks
Ceasar
The Narva brand is pretty common in the Auto shops here in Australia, not sure about elsewhere but a search on eBay or Alibaba type sites should reveal something similar.
As far as the firewall access on our right-hand-drive models there was a grommet on the right towards the top, closer to the side of the car:
Photo orientation - taken from down on the drivers side foot area looking up.
Comes out in the engine bay up behind the suspension tower:
I mounted my switches in the fuse panel plate, didn't like the idea of drilling into the dash itself. You might also have spare blank panels on the dash switch assemblies that could be used.
Relays with fuses $8 to $10 each, think I bought a bunch of 10 so that brings the price down to $5 to $6 each:
Shop 12v relay with 30a fuse online - Buy 12v relay with 30a fuse for unbeatable low prices on AliExpress.com
As far as the firewall access on our right-hand-drive models there was a grommet on the right towards the top, closer to the side of the car:
Photo orientation - taken from down on the drivers side foot area looking up.
Comes out in the engine bay up behind the suspension tower:
I mounted my switches in the fuse panel plate, didn't like the idea of drilling into the dash itself. You might also have spare blank panels on the dash switch assemblies that could be used.
Relays with fuses $8 to $10 each, think I bought a bunch of 10 so that brings the price down to $5 to $6 each:
Shop 12v relay with 30a fuse online - Buy 12v relay with 30a fuse for unbeatable low prices on AliExpress.com
Caesar,
I would recommend putting the switch in the upper part of the fuse panel cover. This is where I installed my Rockford Fosgate amplifier base level knob as there was no blank to use as you mentioned. I figured if I was going to bring it back to stock the fuse door was a cheap enough part to just go get one online.
I would recommend putting the switch in the upper part of the fuse panel cover. This is where I installed my Rockford Fosgate amplifier base level knob as there was no blank to use as you mentioned. I figured if I was going to bring it back to stock the fuse door was a cheap enough part to just go get one online.
Hi Barry,
I just got around to pulling the front end off and completing the fog light wiring as you suggested. I ended up using the Hella blue relay with built in fuse. I tapped off the green low beam wire as you instructed and everything works fantastic. I did want to mention that at the same time I did the Hyundai Genesis dual horn upgrade at the same time. I've got to tell you that this simple upgrade is worth triple the $57.00 I paid off ebay. if you haven't done it I highly recommend the effort. I have detailed pictures. Do you think the forum would be interested in a post of this upgrade?
I just got around to pulling the front end off and completing the fog light wiring as you suggested. I ended up using the Hella blue relay with built in fuse. I tapped off the green low beam wire as you instructed and everything works fantastic. I did want to mention that at the same time I did the Hyundai Genesis dual horn upgrade at the same time. I've got to tell you that this simple upgrade is worth triple the $57.00 I paid off ebay. if you haven't done it I highly recommend the effort. I have detailed pictures. Do you think the forum would be interested in a post of this upgrade?
Good news Mark, there is a special kind of satisfaction when you complete something yourself - and it works 
There are a couple of horn upgrades documented, try the search to see if what you have done is similar. Personally I enjoy reading how others have tackled projects I have done to see if there is anything else I could learn for next time.
Just a tip on searches, I find a Google search better to find things than most forum in built searches, just use whatever word(s) you are looking for and add it to the forums site name in the Google search:
There are a couple of horn upgrades documented, try the search to see if what you have done is similar. Personally I enjoy reading how others have tackled projects I have done to see if there is anything else I could learn for next time.
Just a tip on searches, I find a Google search better to find things than most forum in built searches, just use whatever word(s) you are looking for and add it to the forums site name in the Google search:
I'm pretty sure there would be a how-to on here somewhere but I'll give you the method I use. I wrote this on another site but it is still relevant here:
My version of what happens when posting pictures....
The main thing to get your head around is that the site (and this goes for almost all forums) don't actually hold your pictures due to space limitations (photos takes up tons more space than words), so what you need to do is to have a pointer to where the picture is stored. Because most of us don't open our hard drives up for all the world to come and look at another location needs to be found to hold the picture.
The easiest solution for most of us is to have a photo account with a third party (i.e. Photobucket, Servimg, etc). These third party locations give you a link that you can paste/insert into your post.
When the forum software reads this geek-speak it says to itself "hmm, he wants me to show the picture that is over on that Photobucket site, I'll just go grab it and put it in the post."
So the site I use is SERVIMG.COM, its a free site, allows subdirectories so you can sort your photos, I haven't come up with a file limitation yet and I'd be well over 1,000 images up loaded by now. You need to create an account, just go to the main page, doesn't take much time to register.
Once you have an account just follow the prompts to up load, it will ask you where the image is located and give you a screen to access your own internal hard drive, there are a couple of other options for file size etc, but for the time being just keep with the defaults until you get to know the site. If you are successful with the upload to their site you will end up with a screen something like this (this is an old image so it might be slightly different now - I think the COPY buttons no longer appear):
What you need to do is to extract the Bulletin Board code (BBCode), this is what the forum needs to point to the picture. Click on the URL for the IMAGE under the BB Code, it should highlight the complete line of code, then COPY this to your computer's clipboard by pressing CTRL and C together.
Now go back to the forum to the post you want to put the image into, put your mouse cursor in the message at the location where you want the image to appear, and then press CTRL and V to paste the BBCode, you should see that string of URL characters appear. By using the CTRL C and V keyboard short cuts you don't need to use the Forums own "post and image" buttons. You can add, edit your text in either side of the BBCode as you need to, one trick I do is to insert three blank lines where I need to put the picture then go back to the second line and CTRL V the picture there, that then puts a space on the top and bottom of the image when its viewed.
It sounds messy and convoluted at first, but you will soon get used to it and it will be second nature before long.
Good luck.
BTW there are a ton of free photo hosting sites, I stumbled across SERVIMG years ago and have never had a need to change. One thing to remember is that these images are links, so if you close or erase photos on your hosting account, then the links also disappear and then it wont be shown on the forum - you might have seen this in some older post. Also if you link the SERVIMG to another URL instead of up loading from your own drive, if that link breaks so does the image on your SERVIMG account so again the picture is lost, this would hold true for most hosting sites.
My version of what happens when posting pictures....
The main thing to get your head around is that the site (and this goes for almost all forums) don't actually hold your pictures due to space limitations (photos takes up tons more space than words), so what you need to do is to have a pointer to where the picture is stored. Because most of us don't open our hard drives up for all the world to come and look at another location needs to be found to hold the picture.
The easiest solution for most of us is to have a photo account with a third party (i.e. Photobucket, Servimg, etc). These third party locations give you a link that you can paste/insert into your post.
When the forum software reads this geek-speak it says to itself "hmm, he wants me to show the picture that is over on that Photobucket site, I'll just go grab it and put it in the post."
So the site I use is SERVIMG.COM, its a free site, allows subdirectories so you can sort your photos, I haven't come up with a file limitation yet and I'd be well over 1,000 images up loaded by now. You need to create an account, just go to the main page, doesn't take much time to register.
Once you have an account just follow the prompts to up load, it will ask you where the image is located and give you a screen to access your own internal hard drive, there are a couple of other options for file size etc, but for the time being just keep with the defaults until you get to know the site. If you are successful with the upload to their site you will end up with a screen something like this (this is an old image so it might be slightly different now - I think the COPY buttons no longer appear):
What you need to do is to extract the Bulletin Board code (BBCode), this is what the forum needs to point to the picture. Click on the URL for the IMAGE under the BB Code, it should highlight the complete line of code, then COPY this to your computer's clipboard by pressing CTRL and C together.
Now go back to the forum to the post you want to put the image into, put your mouse cursor in the message at the location where you want the image to appear, and then press CTRL and V to paste the BBCode, you should see that string of URL characters appear. By using the CTRL C and V keyboard short cuts you don't need to use the Forums own "post and image" buttons. You can add, edit your text in either side of the BBCode as you need to, one trick I do is to insert three blank lines where I need to put the picture then go back to the second line and CTRL V the picture there, that then puts a space on the top and bottom of the image when its viewed.
It sounds messy and convoluted at first, but you will soon get used to it and it will be second nature before long.
Good luck.
BTW there are a ton of free photo hosting sites, I stumbled across SERVIMG years ago and have never had a need to change. One thing to remember is that these images are links, so if you close or erase photos on your hosting account, then the links also disappear and then it wont be shown on the forum - you might have seen this in some older post. Also if you link the SERVIMG to another URL instead of up loading from your own drive, if that link breaks so does the image on your SERVIMG account so again the picture is lost, this would hold true for most hosting sites.
Hi Barri,
I recall on another post here that you had the audio schematic for the factory speakers. I'm in the middle of running leads to my Rockford Fosgate 1000X5 located in the rear storage tray. Could you shoot me over the speaker wire layout for the 2013 LX? I just wanted to compare it to my drawing when I installed the Hertz speakers in all the doors. By the way, what genius thought of using that million pin connector going into the front door. When I saw that originally I couldn't believe it. If these doors had a normal boot I could have run some nice 14 gauge from door to rear. Now I have to tap off on the interior side of the connector. Unbelievable!
I recall on another post here that you had the audio schematic for the factory speakers. I'm in the middle of running leads to my Rockford Fosgate 1000X5 located in the rear storage tray. Could you shoot me over the speaker wire layout for the 2013 LX? I just wanted to compare it to my drawing when I installed the Hertz speakers in all the doors. By the way, what genius thought of using that million pin connector going into the front door. When I saw that originally I couldn't believe it. If these doors had a normal boot I could have run some nice 14 gauge from door to rear. Now I have to tap off on the interior side of the connector. Unbelievable!
A while ago KIA had a free site where you could view the complete documentation of any model, this site was now changed to a pay-site as it appeared it was costing them too much to keep open for everyone (who had spent 10's of $1,000 for their cars). What I used to do is to capture the info and store it for later viewing as the site was a little difficult to flick between different areas. As my Sportage was the 2010/2011 model, the schematics I have are relevant to that year, it is highly possible that KIA have changed things in later models, so any info I put up you will need to be mindful it might have been superseded.
I'm not sure if you have standard speakers or have the factory amp setup so I'll post both versions, I'm pretty sure they use the same pins in the door connectors. The decimal numbers with the single letter is the wire size (in mm) and color, the numbers next to the connectors (the double arrow symbols) are the pin numbers in the connectors. With the old free site you could click on the connector in the schematic and it would take you to the connector layout - that was handy feature.
Hope this is of assistance:
With factory amp
Without amp
I'm not sure if you have standard speakers or have the factory amp setup so I'll post both versions, I'm pretty sure they use the same pins in the door connectors. The decimal numbers with the single letter is the wire size (in mm) and color, the numbers next to the connectors (the double arrow symbols) are the pin numbers in the connectors. With the old free site you could click on the connector in the schematic and it would take you to the connector layout - that was handy feature.
Hope this is of assistance:
With factory amp
Without amp
Hi Barri,
This is probably obvious but are incoming Bluetooth calls heard only through the front speakers?
The reason for asking is I am in the process of installing an upgraded stereo (Hertz speakers and Fosgate 1000X5 amp) and have all the speakers disconnected temporarily while I tidy up the amp wiring. I tried to call out today and the UVO screen has a pop-up saying "Private Mode" USE HANDSFREE. I temporarily hooked up the LR speaker and the radio works but no Bluetooth. Update: I spliced behind the B panel on each side to run high level to amp. The Fosgate will turn on this way. I ran 14ga to each speaker front and rear. Again the Bluetooth will find the Samsung and download contacts but the handsfree won't work. what am I missing here? I even reset the UVO.
This is probably obvious but are incoming Bluetooth calls heard only through the front speakers?
The reason for asking is I am in the process of installing an upgraded stereo (Hertz speakers and Fosgate 1000X5 amp) and have all the speakers disconnected temporarily while I tidy up the amp wiring. I tried to call out today and the UVO screen has a pop-up saying "Private Mode" USE HANDSFREE. I temporarily hooked up the LR speaker and the radio works but no Bluetooth. Update: I spliced behind the B panel on each side to run high level to amp. The Fosgate will turn on this way. I ran 14ga to each speaker front and rear. Again the Bluetooth will find the Samsung and download contacts but the handsfree won't work. what am I missing here? I even reset the UVO.
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