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Getting Ready to start work on my audio system.

12K views 26 replies 8 participants last post by  harperadia  
#1 ·
So after seeking the advice of crutchfield.com (who I have had good luck with in the past) I have ordered my speaker replacements.

They suggested the following speakers for the front

Pioneer TS-A1604C 6-3/4" component speaker system — also fits many 6-1/2" openings at Crutchfield.com

And these for the rear

Kicker DS60 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield.com

Based on the power needs and space available for mounting.

I am also looking into buying this sub setup

Infinity BassLink Powered subwoofer: 200 watts and a 10" sub at Crutchfield.com

Just to add a little bass to the system but not take up a bunch of room.


I am planning on keeping my stock HU as I like the functionality of it and like the stock look.

I also ordered some Fat Mat (dynamat copy but much cheaper) as there is a fair amount of rattle in the doors.

For you guys that have already done your speaker installs, did you re-use the stock mounts or have you replaced them?

I will update with pics and more information once the speakers arrive!
 
#2 ·
A couple of nuub questions for you regarding the audio -

Do you have Nav or the standard head unit? If the standard one, is there a sub out you will be using to connect to the subwoofer? If not, how do you plan on connecting it?

Curious why different speakers were purchased for the rear, rather than having the same model used all the way around?

Do you plan on putting the sub in the rear cargo area? Do you have 3rd row seats?

Thanks!
 
#3 ·
I have the standard Head Unit. There is no Sub out on it so I will be using a Line out converter, well actually the sub I am looking at has one built in so I just have to splice into a set of speaker cables and the sub setup will do it for me.

The reason for purchasing different speakers is that I spoke with Crutchfield.com and it was their suggestion. If you aren't aware of their background. Basically they are the S**T when it comes to knowing what will work in what car. Each time a model is realeased they tear the car apart and measure everything to see what will fit and provide superior customer support when buying and after when installing. They have custom installation guides for each car that you can buy for $10 but will come free with pretty much any purchase. Also they usually give you the brackets etc that you need to make the installation as easy as possible.

Now I am cheap, so I ended up getting the speakers from Amazon for a lot less as I found deals on both. I will however be purchasing the Sub from them as they have a good price on it and it comes with the wiring kit for free.

I will be installing the sub in the rear of the car behind the 3rd row (I think) I am half way thinking about installing it in a way that it can be moved with say velcro as I usually don't have the 3rd row up but still want to have that as an option if I need it.

Once I get to the install for the sub I will post pictures etc. on how I do it.
 
#5 ·
I was able to purchase one of those Sparkomatic 100 watt powered tube subwoofer off of ebay for $20.00. I used to have an Radio Shack of the same design in our E150 conversion van which was great. Since I have already replaced the factory speakers with sony xplode 6 1/4 speakers. These produce better sound that the factory paper. All I'm looking for is more bass. The subwooker has a green/black wire for the right rear door speaker. I figure I'll just take the rear pass. panel off, hook up the wires and tape it around the factory wiring harness. There is a power outlet in the rear console, so I'll use an old plug in to power the sub speaker. There is a built-in fuse holder, so it should be fine. There is a red/red/black on/off wires which I'll configure. This is the fastest way to hook up the tube subwoofer and install it the compartment where the 3rd row seat should be. The Radio Shack powere subwoofer was great in the conversion van, so this would be better.
 
#10 ·
Fortunately with the Basslink you don't need an RCA inputs. It has a universal interface where basically you splice into the existing speaker cables and then plug those into the sub. It actually acts as the remote lead also. The Basslink comes with the cables in order to do this.

If you check out their website you will see.
 
#13 · (Edited)
any updates? have you installed them already?

i have 2pcs 12" Subs with 1600 watts Amp on my stock radio and it bangs good even my subs are cheap :cool:
also the RCA Converter cost me $27 bucks at Pep Boys, they dont have it at Autozone..

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BTW: i also have a 6.5" Jensen DVD Dash but couldnt install it because i cant find the right bracket for it. if anyone knows where to buy for our sorento pls post it here. thanks in advance!!
 
#14 ·
I got the front door speakers installed on Friday afternoon. It was a pretty straight forward install. The hardest part of the whole thing was getting the part on the inside of the door that controls the door lock and handle to operate to click back in properly.

Definite improvement in sound quality, a lot crisper sound and I can take it up into the 20's volume on the stock deck without any distortion.

My basslink should be here tomorrow so hopefully I can install it then.
 
#15 ·
Hey Nate, just took pictures on where did i run my power wire for my Amp,
it is a tiny hole where they run the hood cable...

(Under the Hood) Driver Side near Suspension Bolts
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(Inside) Driver side near the foot brake.
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#17 ·
Alright guys I got the rest of the install finished yesterday.

I am pleased to announce it sounds great! I am surprised how much bass comes out of this little 10inch sub setup. It was a pretty straight forward install. Running the Power lead through the fender well was easy and getting it down the side of the car was ok too.

With the basslink you can tap into two sets of speaker cables to work as a remote for the amp and to get the signal to the sub for the bass. I tapped into the rear speakers. In order to do so I had to remove the trim panel between the doors behind the seatbelt. I removed the rubber seals on the door frame that really helped when re-installing that part.

The nice part of buying the Basslink from crutchfield.com was that I got the wiring kit for free. Plus it was $100 off too!

I would say for anyone wanting more bass from their system without sacrificing their whole trunk area should definitely consider this.
 
#18 ·
Nice and Congrats :beer:
can you post pics so we can see it :cool:
and how much did you spent in all? just asking :rolleyes:
 
#22 · (Edited)
A few pictures

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I got the Basslink for $199.99 and that included free shipping and the amp wiring kit from Crutchfield.com I also bought some of these

Posi-Products™ Wire Connectors 6 tap connectors for 10- to 22-gauge wires — tap into wires without cutting or stripping at Crutchfield.com

They were $7.99.

The Speakers I bought for a total of $102.00 and I got some of that Fat Mat sound deadener which was $25.00

So grand total for complete sound overhaul $334.98
Nice, i have a 2.4L 4cyl LX w/o 3rd row and here is where i put my subs and my amp is under the 2nd row seat.

on my side i spent,
$60 - 2pcs 12" 1200watts Subs (used)
$40 - 1600watts Amp (used)
$15 - Amp wiring kit (amazon)
$27 - RCA Converter (pep boys)
-----
$142 - TOTAL Money i spent

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#27 ·
2 pairs or 4?

Just about to install my Basslink this weekend on my 2012 Forte Koup SX. Question...how did you decide on which speaker wire pairs to connect to using the 'Universal Interface' on the Basslink? I noticed you connected just to the rear speakers, but I'm curious if it makes any difference, or if there is any advantage to connecting to all 4 pairs? Any input or advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!