When you have all the screws unscrewed, it's time for plastic "poppers". I found it the easiest to start at the bottom in the middle.

There are 10 "poppers" to pull out and it's rather easy (I got the doors off in less than 1 minute including the screws and without breaking any plastic "poppers")

Before you take off the panel, you have to remove the tweeter panel.

It's rather easy to remove, but start at the bottom - and pull it towards you and a bit up - on the picture you can see the way plastic falls into the holes.

Than just simple pull the door panel up and unhook all the connectors.

When the panel is off, the doors look like this

Marked things are:

- yellow --> where the poppers are
- blue --> the side screws
- red --> 10 screws that hold the inner plate (the silver)
- green --> plastic covers used for getting the window/glass out.

I decided to isolate the front doors with damping material.

First I opened the plastic covers (green on the above picture), reconected the door panel on the conectors and lowered the window down to about the midle position (half open/half closed).

Than trough the holes where the plastic covers were, I unscrew two screws and trough the hole to the front of the car I unhooked the window (rather simple but impossible to take a picture). Than you just pull the window upwards and out.
IT IS IMPORTANT THAT SOMEBODY HELPS YOU WITH THIS AS THE WINDOW MAY FALL INTO THE DOOR AND BREAK - SOMEBODY SHOULD HOLD THE WINDOW WHILE YOU ARE UNSCREWING THOSE 2 SCREWS AND UNHOOKING THE WINDOW.

 

..
Before you take off the panel, you have to remove the tweeter panel.

It's rather easy to remove, but start at the bottom - and pull it towards you and a bit up - on the picture you can see the way plastic falls into the holes.
..

I did like you suggested with the tweeter panel and started at the bottom with a small flat screwdriver wrapped in duct tape, I ended up with 2 little puncture marks in that fragile material that covers the door panel. Better way is to start at the top actually, this way the tweeter panel comes off nicely.
How do you remove the gear knob in a 2010 Pro cee'd with A/T? I tried turning it counter clockwise but it doesn't move at all.

Tõnu

 

Are you keeping the original radio and replacing the rest of the stuff?

 

Before removing the inner silver plate you have to remove the speaker. Unhook it from the wire installation and than drill trough the marked areas.

It's a rather crappy blaupunkt speaker with no magnet (the irony is that I work for the main importer of Blaupunkt in my country )

Next thing was to remove 10 screws marked with red and to remove the silver plate. I had to unscrew 3 screws to the right of the picture, where the door locks (I forgot to pinpoint it on the picture). I was unable to get the plate out, but was able to pull it away from the doors enough to isolate the doors.

Isolation/damping material - buttyflex

 

Original doors

halfway done

Isolated/damped doors

After the isolation I put the inner silver plate into it's position and screwed back the 10 screws and installed the window back in - about 2 minutes of work. Not hard, but again, SOMEBODY MUST HELP WITH THE WINDOW.

Than it was time to put in the new speakers. I had to find the appropriate speaker holders/rings. Since there are non for the ceed/pro_ceed available at the moment (at least I couldn't find them) I had to find something that will fit the original holes on the doors.

The closest I came with speaker holders for the Alfa 147 by Phonocar.

 

'no magnet' ? how do they work without a magnet to bring the cone back?

 

From the top it looks like this

I than used a tool for making holes bigger (every step on the golden tool means 2mm bigger hole) and some plastic "holders" (you will see later what I mean)

I made the original holes bigger (they were about 4mm big originally and I made them 8mm big) and inserted the plastic "holders"

 

This plastic holders are used to screw in the speaker adapter

To make the install better I used a sponge-like self attaching thing and put it on the speaker holder, so there is no air leaking / space between the speaker holder and the door frame.

 

If anything...what a fantastic guide.
Top job.

 

For the speaker upgrade I went with the MB Quart RVF 216 speaker system that I had in my basement.

Comparisment between the new and the old speakers.

Than it was time to get the new speaker wires into the doors. Considering that I will have 4x130w rms amplifier for the front system (2 channels for the front and 2 channels bridged for woofer) I couldn't use the original wires as they are too thin (I presume about 0,75mm2).

The wires I used are:

- 2x2,5mm2 from the amplifier to the crossover
- 2x2,5mm2 from the crossover to the midbass speaker
- 2x1,5mm2 from the crossover to the tweeter

First I tried to get the cable into the door trough the original cable canal. But considering that that would involve drilling trough the original connector I gave up on that option.

After looking at the doors I found 2 holes on the car - 1 on the outer part towards the doors and 1 inside (under the plastic).

To make the installation of the cables as easy as possible I removed the plastic under the drivers legs.

There are 4 screws:

Two from the side ( you have to remove the side plastic first)

And two under the steering wheel (unfortunatly no picutre - they are at the bottom of this plastic, you cannot miss them).

Unscrew them and than you have to pull the plastic at the top (there is the same metal popper on both sides of the steering wheel)

 

To make the installation of the cables as easy as possible I removed the plastic under the drivers legs.

There are 4 screws:

Two from the side ( you have to remove the side plastic first)

And two under the steering wheel (unfortunatly no picutre - they are at the bottom of this plastic, you cannot miss them).

Anybody knows how to dismantle this part on the passanger side?...

 

Than remove the plastics on the side of the car (only poppers). I found it the easiest way to start at the back, first to lift the outside part (where it's the metal "ceed" sign) and than when you get them all out just grab the inside part of it at one and and lift it up.

Than you unscrew the lever for opening the front bonnet (engine) bonnet. One screw in the middle of it and than you just pull it off.

When it's off, you have to remove the foot rest. Start at the top, pull it towards you so the "popper" let's go and than pull it up and it should get out.

Afterwards, remove the plastic where the lever for opening the engine bonnet was (just pull it off towards the opposite side of the car, rather simple).

Under it you will see a plastic/silicone cover. There is also a similar silicone cover on the outside of the car and I only have the picture of it on the outside.

I got the cable trough those holes (I made a hole in the silicone cover so the cable went trough and than put the cover back on its place)

 

Since I didn't want to drill trough the original cable connector I made a hole in the sillicone cover in the doors - the hole in the door is big enough to make the hole under the original cables and still get into the doors.

Unfortunatly not seen on the pictures is the hard plastic tunel for the cables that went from the first hole on the car frame trough the sillicone cover in the doors so the cables are protected better than in the original cable tunel (from the car to the doors). I'll make a picture tomorrow.

Inside the doors I came out with the cable as original cables.

On the picutre you can see where I decided to put my crossover. There is a lot of space there but still - meassure it before you install it.

When I finished the cables it looked like this.

 

The cables for the speakers were done like this.

Isolated.

All the wiring I've put in the doors have been straped to the original wires so no wire is loose. I also put the original audio connectors (for the tweeter and the midbass speaker) in the clothing material and straped it to original wires so that they won't bang against the doors and make noise.

After it the speakers went in, the tweeters went in and I've put the door panels back on - the same way as I've took them off just the other way around.

This is the end of part 1. I'd put it all in one long post but the forum is limited to 4 pictures per post. Maybe a moderator/admin can merge my posts into one.

Tomorrow I'll show you how and where to put 35mm2 power cable, how to get the cables (power, speaker, RCA) to the back, how to take the rear seats out and how to make good ground for the amplifier. Later on (when I'll have time) I'll make a fiberglass box in the trunk for the 10" subwoofer.

Thank you for listening, I'm opened to questions.

 

Simply fantastic, Crammond, congratulations. :clap::clap:

 

I made some pictures today that were missing yesterday.

Cables going from the car into the doors (protected).

door side

car side

Where the cable gets inside the car.

Position of all four of the screws for removal of the plastic under the steering wheel

This now completes part 1. I will now write part 2.

 

@crammond: WOOW ..The best of... !! congratulations & thank's ! :57:

 

Thanksss, Great Post. Good Work. .

 

What size are the original OEM speakers? I have a set of Infinity Reference 6510cs 16.5/17cm components out of my old car, would they fit easy?

 

They will fit, the original speakers are 16,5/17cm, but you need a plastic speaker holder, I used one for a Alfa 147 (you can see it on a photo on the first page of this thread...)

 

rca boss system

How did u connect the Boss converter system?

 

How did u connect the Boss converter system?

Anyone?
Does CONNECTOR C1 work?

 

To connect this to C1?

it won't work, i've tried it.

The only way to connect an amplifier to the original headunit/radio is to use a Hi-Low adapter:

(something like this)

 

I want to keep my original speakers and only add subwoofer in trunk. What is the best way to connect amp to the headunit? I don't want to lose rear speakers.
Are there any 10A electric cabels in the trunk that dont do anything? I was thinking of putting in my old headunit an wiering the rear speaker output to this unit and from this to rear speakers and to amplifier . and maybe also putting my old speakers in the trunk

 

For those in UK thinking of doing this, I've found a reasonable source for the acoustic matting on ebay UK;
Approx 2m x 1m roll @ £33 delivered

 

Nice tutorial, but is the installation the same for a model 2011 cee'd sw? And can you guys tell me what size the rear door speakers are on a sporty wagon. I am thinking of replacing the front speakers with the Pioneer TS-170Ci and contemplating a rear door fix also.
A complete audio rebuild is not possible because this is a company car, and I need to be able to bring the car back to original state if necessary.

regards,
Bas

 

Hello, can you tell me how you removed the side (left handside) of the dashboard (second last picture, the thing with the yellow sticker on it)
Thanks
Manu

 

What a headache , although I can understand why you have gone to all this trouble as the sound on my new Kia Ceed 2 is crap but it should not be because the sound on my previous Korean Built Chevrolet Cruze is excellent similar priced cars.

Unfortunately I find the stero sound fom my New Ceed 2 is very poor compared to my previous similar priced Korean Built Chevrolet Cruze I admire anyone who will go through the process of upgrading what a chore

 

the sound on my new Kia Ceed 2 is crap

Shock, horror, disbeliever has found something he does not like on his new Ceed.