You have a vehicle that is 8 years old, some failures are going to happen at that age. Is this the first time you had major repairs on your vehicle? A new vehicle will cost you 5 or 6 hundred a month in payments.

I have a 2014 Sorento and had the HP ac line replaced in florida a couple of years ago and its been fine ever since. My buddy has a 2015 sorento EX and he just had the alternator replaced at the same price you paid.

All vehicles are going to need replacement parts eventually but its still cheaper than buying a new vehicle.

 

I have owned so many various vehicles, most bought used, well used and never like this. Some wear items to 200,000km or more. A/C hoses nor the main A/C or alternators ever and insue. Mileage as above double this as well. We don'tu use the A/C that much hear as its much cooler (even now only 18C right now). I have a ton of reference of over 50 years driving various vehicles to very much higher mileage. It NOT normal, not by a long shot.

 

Sorry to hear that from a huge contributor. That's why I got a warranty

 

I am getting some extended warranty on my 2019 before it expires. I intend to keep it but between the failures and Kia Canada's consumer attitude I received (in the AC posted thread). I'll will not recommend Kia to anyone again, family will never buy another and not likely friends. My friend usually approach and ask for my recommendations. Opting for the V6 choices, No CVT and No Turbo are primary factors in narrowing it down. One friend who I narrowed down a 2019 Hyundia Sante Fe XL which had the V6 AWD build got the oem extended warranty. They a had a lot of large costly repairs done and covered around 140k km including the powered tailgate struts which are quite expensive. Water pump also went as I recall. They are happy with the vehicle I specified and thus far warranty has covered noteworthy failures.

That sort of indicated vulnerable aspects to the build based on their vehicle which they've had Hyundai serviced fully. They've replaced another vehicle with a Volvo XC40 & they have 4 year, 80,000km warranty in Canada or CPO which is 6 years, 160,000km.

Edit:
Review rating placed on Edmunds.com now. A key site to checkout before thinking about a vehicle purchase, used or new for consumers. JDPower is another. Fyi

 

I just replaced the oil pan on my third gen (the crack was my fault) and while the pan was off a plastic piece fell out of the engine.

Best guess so far is that it’s a balance shaft chain guide that just decided to split and the vehicle drives currently but… not reassuring and combined with the host of other corner cutting, engineering issues might be the final straw but I’m trying to find out more. Opinions welcome.

 

When I purchased my 2015 SX 7 years ago it was two years old , rated #1 in it's class, and cost thousands less than comparable mid size SUV's with similar options. They were a hot item years back. I have never purchased an extended warranty in years of ownership. However the past years on this forum have made me rethink my decision.

Current consumer ratings are down, reliability and the cost of repair and parts is wild. Reading the forum AC hoses, alternators, BCM's, 3.3 head bolts, 2.4 bearings, PB start, Electric Power steering, oil sensors, power lift gate, 4WD couplers. Stuff you took for granted that should not fail prior to 75-100K miles. Maybe we see all the bad stuff on forums. And I have sympathy for the unlucky owners.

Also the more expensive SUV's back in 2017 (when I bought) are worth more than my current Kia on trade in or re-sale. So you save up front, possibly pay some of the savings back in repairs and then pay a bit more back in re-sale.
So it's a crap-shoot, you come out +$$ or -$$ in the long run.

So far I have been lucky for 6 years , I put in a new hub/speed sensor for $100.00 on Amazon , my power steering is a bit clunky I live with that, my wife doesn't notice it. So only $100 for six years, it's never been into a shop except for the ABS unit recall inspection.

I do all my own maintenance on my vehicles. For $100 a year I have towing insurance on all my vehicles, plus any other vehicle I am using. So whatever happens they get towed home free. When you own 29, 16 and 8 year old cars/trucks, plus other projects in-between, towing is almost a necessity.

 

I don't buy any vehicle with its resale in mind. I buy for what suites and has what I must have, and preferred option if my research validates a worthy candidate, otherwise I move on to something else. I normally plan to run to 200k km unless I wanted a vehicle change early which was the case for the 2019 Sorento SX. My Highlander went to my son which I had Toyota's extended warranty on as it was offered very cheap by the dealer even though a 2012 4WD V6 sport highlander. I paid quite a bit for the 2019 Sorento heavily inflated by Covid but it was well equipped (mostly but garage opener was omitted surprisingly). The 2015 V6 is far more responsive than this one. Day and night difference.

 

I do not know about replacement parts for this model....but with my former Pontiac Transport (that I ran for 23 years) , from 1993 to 2016), I have replaced two internal alternator components ..once the diode pack, another time the internal voltage regulator..well infact, twice for this one. In each occurence though, I was able to reach home..so not stranded far away...lucky!
..the alternator was never overloaded..so these internal components were obviously underdesigned...so based on previous experience and your adventure it makes me aware.....
PRior to this Sorento, I have also had a 2000 Kia SPortage as a second car...an original KIA, not a Hyundai sibbling. On this one, the alternator did practially disintegrate....as well as the rear bumper which fell off the car...
Just as the dealer told me when I replaced my 35year old laundry washer..."this one will not last as long...."

 

Was battery the original? 8 years is a great life span. Parts availability/prices and labor are very high in the current market. Unless there are other/continuing issues. $2400/8 yrs is not a bad deal at all.

 

Good life for a battery but not for the Alternator, just over 100,000km and done. Only one vehicle of all I've had needed a replacement in over 40 years and that was because the ADP on it quit!!!

Also the Canadian Tire REMY alternators are extremely bad. At idle (hot) the voltage drops below 12.5VDC with headlights and rear defogger on for load test. That a joke!!! 14.5VDC when you turn the loads off. I've monitored at the battery a slow drop to 12.19VDC if I leave it for a while. The oem alternator would remain at the same output voltage with those and more items turn on for load!! Dont buy a CTC Alternator their advertising is wrong. "Meets or Exceeds OEM Specification" LOL

 

@Trpplec, You miss spelled the CTC mane, should be Cambodian tire... Not like they used to be.. but that is the way of the world these days..

 

Well if you look it up on their website they claim OEM or better spec's. I am going to make them eat them words in print. I want a new alternator for sure. This one is absurd performance!! The managers are useless and won't do a thing either. Well, I stayed away for decades from CTC but figured how difficult is it to assess and replace an alternator. For them it appears a catistrophic result. I'd use a alternator shop who said it should never drop as low as it does for me on the REMY alternator. I am waiting for coporated rep to get back to me. I took a video and made it avaialbe to him. Too big to email at 200mb. Oh well

 

Dropping to 12.2 volts at idle with just head/running lamps (15-20 amps) and rear defroster (15-20) amps sounds defective for a 150 amp OEM replacement. As you stated mine stays above 14 at idle until I hit the blowers in super high and can't find anything else to turn on, even then it's above 13.2. There must be a warranty, the installation of these things is a PITA to get at. And they will most likely put the same thing back in... Wonder if your new gen has any published specs such as load capacity at specific pully RPM's. Do you know the Mfg and model numbers.

 

Thats what I am telling them. I could turn on other items, heated seats front and back but with just those two its already showing a major issue. An alternator shop said it should never drop to battery voltage and if its is means the alternator has turned off and comes back on at higher RPM's.

I am dealing with Corporate CTC Rep and expect a resolution. I've done that sort of test on every vehilce I have owned for over 40 years. Meter across the battery and one by one start turning on load items. Validates the alternator is functioning well and maintaining regulation as they all should. I never seen one drop more than a point or so but pickup on slide rev. Only the original mechanical regulators ever did. REMY does not meet any acceptable spec's and the managers of the dealer shops won't budge on replacing it. Yet....

Note: Rear defogger activates the Window, Mirrors and front windshield heaters. I'd expect a lot more current used.

 

Has CTC applied a carbon pile load test to the alternator, that is the only sure test for applicable load..

 

They put some load device but all they're concerned about is getting amps/current. Saying the vehicle needs amps not the volts !!! Doesn't matter to them even when one test they were at 11.2VDC.

 

Once you have a positive Amp input, the voltage should rise, having said that you can have voltage with little amps..

Go to a different CTC outlet.

 

Update as I am all done now.

I arranged and took this 2015 to an independant garage I'd used for a simplier job of install the CURT hitch on my 2019. The ran very detail diagnostic with their ODB tester drive, idling several times for an hour. They came back with the info the alternator is doing everything the computer is telling it to day. Hmm maybe so but still can't be right letting the battery discharge at under with modest load. I said I still wanted the alternator replace. OK

Once replaced many hours later I did some tests on the lot as I did before. I wasn't sure it was true hot idle but never the less. It held above 14VDC, great to see. I notice my pluggin DVM was reading 14.4VDC lower than the other alternator but better as it was a bit high for summer charging level as this is really 14.2VDC at the battery which is almost the same as my 2019 SX is. I then piled on the load, in addition I turned on both front seat heaters, AC, even wiper while squirting the glass. It held a positive voltage but did drop somewhat but would recover as the regulator responded to the load. I cannot put it into a bad situation with anything I have access to while idling!!! That was the point I made to various mechanic.

This alternator was a CarQuest branded unit which comes with lifetime warranty fyi. The garage is tied to TechNet which give me 2 yr labour warranty if I have to replace this at any other service center. Both plus point. I got my money back at CTC for their alternator and just waiting to get the assured labour refunded as well.

All and all we have to stick to our belief. Not normal and faulty is not purely up to the computers operation in signaling it. Maybe it tells the alternator something that it cannot do and doesn't know it. But that I don't know that and don't care and after 2 months of fighting with this issue is done. its as close to the oem alternator operation as we'd likely get but much cheaper cost for the unit.

Edit: Next day drive
I notice after what appears when the battery is charged without anything on extra. The voltage drops to just above max battery voltage when throttle is used. Slow down coasting it will kick up to 14.4VDC and as soon as you accelerate again its back down. This vehicle has had not new programming updates that I know of although it was in the dealer 3 months ago to replace a failed AC compressor hose. Anyway turning on the headlight and with high beam made it go up to 14.4VDC all while driving normally at 80-90km/hr. Lights turn off back down it goes. Hmm some fuel load saving implementation is going on with this regulator. Knowing this and its not dropping below that volate while drive EG Rear defogger on did not affect the voltage output. Remained the same as when it was off. There are smarts going on I had not seen before. Maybe the new norm for replacement units not experienced before.

 

Sure looks like something has changed for you. My 2015 SX (mfg. May 2014) only shuts alternator down on long runs 3-4 hours it will drop to ~12.5 v then it stays off for long time, I never caught how low voltage went before it kicked on. Once after driving 6 hours it actually stayed at 12.5 through a startup and short drive to grocery store, being 300 miles from home it had me concerned. Next startup it was back at 14.5.
Having worked on cars (hobby) for a long time I HATE manufactures not publishing pernitrate info , I seriously think there only a very small amount of Kia/Hyundai employees that have access to that data.

 

The mechanic said a lot of GM's have that sort of shut down but to battery voltage or just above as I now do but it does kick up when I coast (repeatable) and enough load of electrical items turned on. Well its all about know what is normal to rule out what is not.

Heaven help those without a battery voltage display. Red dash light may not come on (didn't for me nor when the other alternator was taking it near 12.1VDC). Also if so its to late with electric power steering etc the battery doesn't last long even without headlamps.

 

If you don't replace the alternator with an OEM one from KIA you will constantly have issues and failures. I put a high output alternator in my 2015 Kia Sorento and it caused all kinds of issues, voltage spikes, etc. I pulled it out and put in a brand new one from Oreilly's and it only lasted 2 years then failed. Since it has a lifetime warranty they gave me a brand new one, and it only lasted about 3 weeks. It even came with a little sticker on it showing a power saving feature that allows the voltage to go as low as 13.3 or as high as 14.4...never seen that before. Either way, KIA electrical systems are very sensitive and if you don't go OEM, you will continue to have issues. It sucks having to spend 6 hours replacing the dang thing, but to stop all the weird issues it's worth the work.

 

Fingers crossed then. That 6hrs is how long I was there. They ran exotic tests on the computer and charging system first, an hour there before starting the replacement process after their results said it was following instructions from the ECU even though the voltages was going to 12.2VDC with modest load and likely a lot further had I waited a few more minutes in my testing before. In their books its 3hr job and ran against lunch time etc. Just a long day waiting for me. In the end I headed to a favourite spot in town and hunkered down on Wings and Beer. Ahhh joy in that ending.

 

Updated new alternator from different brand I got is working great. Proving I was right all along to persist even though I go no engine light. With the fail orginal alternator there wasn't a light anyway. I monitor whats going on via the DVM in my lighter socket as I have one in everything I drive and family including ATV's!!!

 

In our year model 2015, and most likely, other years the red dash light is turned by the internal module in the alternator (the 'L' terminal). The module, it's called the regulator, does a bit more than old fashioned regulators. . The PCM sends a Pulse Width Modulated low current signal to the alternator module. It then converts the percentage of PWM duty cycle into higher current to the field windings in the alternator, that turns it on. The module also has circuitry to compare the PCM commanded load on the PWM signal to the output of the alternator (F terminal) . If commanded verses output is not correct it lights the red dash indicator. However if the module misfunctions then it can not reliably light the indicator. So a bad alternator regulator/module will end up with bad alternator output and no red indicator. To bad the regulator is not field replaceable as base alternator voltage generating stuff like diodes and coils are pretty reliable, my guess is the electronic circuity that seems to be dying prematurely..

Alternators, head bolt striping, power steering clunking, tailgate problems, AC hoses, 2.4 engines, wheel speed sensors, rusty brake rotors, door locks, Oil pressure sensors, no immobilizers. When I purchased Sorento was #1 Consumer Reports, 8 years later the story has changed.

 

Yeah it certainly has changed a lot. Fortunately I don't rely on the idiot lights if I don't have to as in this case. I just mentioned it for others to take note!!! Not being present lit up doesn't mean the charging system is good. You would get to far when it stops charging. Somewhere after 10 or 9VDC the PS is gone and eventually limp mode afterwards.

The mechanic comment that they are cheaply built when I mentioned it was just over 100,000km, 6x,000 miles which is nothing from wear and tear perspective.