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2016 Sorento 3.3L No Crank/No Start

7.6K views 12 replies 4 participants last post by  Zantello66  
#1 · (Edited)
Hello all, been trying to troubleshoot my 2016 Sorento No Crank issue. I’ve tested Battery(Good @12.6V) Threw in a new starter(thought I had narrowed it down to a bad solenoid) with no luck. Currently, when you turn the key, I get a single click which I have narrowed down is coming from the ICM, little yellow module mounted to the side of the blower motor case behind the glovebox. I do not have access to reliable wiring diagram to trace for power. I get no relay clicking from the junction box under the hood nor does the starter solenoid make any kind of noise when turning the key. Anyhow, thanks in advance for anyone’s input!

  • Engine: V6 - 3.3L 3342cc GAS DI vin 5 - 4 valve DOHC
  • Submodel: LX
  • Drive Type: 4WD/AWD
  • Body Type: Sport Utility
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Alright, so, I have power all the way to the “Start 2” relay. Shows 12.6 V when key is in the “Start” position. However, I cant seem to find battery voltage at the Range switch connector. The dash does show P-R-N etc when selecting gears. I’m fairly novice when it comes to electrical troubleshooting though. I do appreciate everyones input on this matter. This is the module that clicks, unsure if that info helps at all.
 

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Discussion starter · #10 · (Edited)
On which pins of the Start 2 relay are you seeing battery voltage when attempting to start?
Pin 4 is the key, since that's eventually what we need to reach the Start 1 relay coil to get things moving.
Pins 1/4 have power when attempting to start which are labeled 30-87 on the relay itself
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Update : Located the issue to a bad relay. All is well. Supplied power to Pin 3 and checked continuity at Pins 1/4 with power/without power at the suggestion from the maintenance engineer at my job and all is well now, car starts up. I was fairly sure the relay was clicking when key was turned to “start” but evidently was bad. Learn something new every time I have to attempt a repair. Thank you all for your help, I sincerely appreciate it.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
I'm a little confused, but glad it worked. Pins 1 and 3 should have power any time the key is turned to the start position in the switch. Unless you were trying to do this solo, and couldn't be in two places at once, you shouldn't have had to have "Supplied power to pin 3". I'm guessing it was a solo operation that caused you to do this. Normally, I'd have been more worried about the ground on the coil from the BCM (pin 5) not being present.
Yes, I didn’t have an extra set of hands available on this one to troubleshoot unfortunately.