My car will do a similar deal if I don't step on the brake pedal firmly enough. Could be worth checking into that ?

 

For this you also need to add to your post.
is it Push to Start or Keyed Ignition you have. Makes a difference in trouble shooting. There is a start relay in the under the hood main power distribution box. Dash should indicate if key or brake is not applied in some fashing. Maybe in the owners manual info on it.

 

There are a number of 'inhibitors' in the vehicle that will prevent starting. Range selector switch (the old 'neutral safety switch'), brake switch, 3rd party remote start systems, and several others. As noted, need to know whether you have key or button start since the wiring diagrams are going to be different.

See if any of this helps:

 

I have a keyed ignition. No push start anyhow, thanks for the replies. Going to dig into it some more tonight. And will update if I get anywhere. Thanks!

 

That being the case, use the upper wiring diagram of the two.

 

Alright, so, I have power all the way to the “Start 2” relay. Shows 12.6 V when key is in the “Start” position. However, I cant seem to find battery voltage at the Range switch connector. The dash does show P-R-N etc when selecting gears. I’m fairly novice when it comes to electrical troubleshooting though. I do appreciate everyones input on this matter. This is the module that clicks, unsure if that info helps at all.

 

Alright, so, I have power all the way to the “Start 2” relay.

On which pins of the Start 2 relay are you seeing battery voltage when attempting to start?
Pin 4 is the key, since that's eventually what we need to reach the Start 1 relay coil to get things moving.

 

I believe Start 2 relay is the one most important. It powers the starter solenoid. Someone should confirm it click and closed otherwise the problem is upstream with many requirements including the neutral switch of the transmission.

 

Update : Located the issue to a bad relay. All is well. Supplied power to Pin 3 and checked continuity at Pins 1/4 with power/without power at the suggestion from the maintenance engineer at my job and all is well now, car starts up. I was fairly sure the relay was clicking when key was turned to “start” but evidently was bad. Learn something new every time I have to attempt a repair. Thank you all for your help, I sincerely appreciate it.

 

I'm a little confused, but glad it worked. Pins 1 and 3 should have power any time the key is turned to the start position in the switch. Unless you were trying to do this solo, and couldn't be in two places at once, you shouldn't have had to have "Supplied power to pin 3". I'm guessing it was a solo operation that caused you to do this. Normally, I'd have been more worried about the ground on the coil from the BCM (pin 5) not being present.

 

Yes, I didn’t have an extra set of hands available on this one to troubleshoot unfortunately.