I now have 14,000 miles on my 2014 Kia Sorento. While driving to visit relatives on Saturday (a two hour trip) the air conditioner was set on 69 degrees. About an hour an 15 minutes into the trip the air flow from the vents began to get weaker and weaker. I turned temperature down and blower speed to high and eventually the air flow completely stopped. You could hear the blower on high speed running but no air was coming from vents. I have video evidence of this if anyone would like for me to post video. Has anyone else had this problem? I have noticed the flow getting weaker on several occasions barely able to keep up with keeping cabin cool but had never had the airflow completely stop until Saturday.
2014 Kia Sorento EX Air Conditioner Problem
Sknowski
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Took car in to dealer again and looks like problem is fixed. Beside software update they found the AC system is freezing up hence reducing volume of air through vents. Found AC temp sensor was faulty. Replaced AC duct temp sensor and have not had a problem. Hope it holds. So tell techs about senor and hopefully you can get your all's fixed.Sounds like a problem with the blower resistor.
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I turned my A/C on for the first time today and noticed that it took it a while to get cool, and also once it was cooling on max a/c the air didn't seem as cold as it should have been...I'm going to pick up any AC repair service then my friend inform me about AC REPAIR MIAMI BEACH,they are awesome in their profession...Thanks again
Have experienced the AC issue this week and dealer installed "Updated software" l was charged $95 US for this as they said it was not a warranty issue. Has anyone else been charged for this software update??
'98 Silverado (farm truck), '11 Sorento LX-AWD (was mine now SWMBO's), '15 Sorento EX-V6
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Digging this one up out of the thread bucket - just curious if *anyone* has the issue I'm having. Chime in if you are.
2015 EX-V6. Out of warranty (110,000km) so if I have to take it in, it's out of my pocket, so trying to diagnose what I can on my own first.
What's wrong:
Start car. Drive for first 30 minutes (almost exactly from when I push the button to start the engine) and the A/C works fine no matter what I'm doing - slow city driving, highway, country roads, etc.
After 30 minutes if I drive at a speed where the engine is below 2000RPM (especially country roads with a 50mph/80kmh speed limit, where the engine is about 1600RPM) the A/C compressor turns off - it stays in "recirc", the fan speed continuously increases trying to keep the cabin cool but it can't (air coming through vents gets warmer and warmer) - no restriction - air is blowing full force - but the compressor is obviously not running.
What I do and it's effects are what's weird:
1. If I press the "AC" button 3 times (not once.. not twice.. exactly 3 times) so it goes "light on, off, on" the A/C compressor will kick on and run for about 3 - 4 minutes, the cabin cools quickly and nicely during that time, and then it turns back off and the cabin starts to warm up again (no matter what the temp setting is).
2. If I press the "Off" button on the climate control and wait at least 2-3 minutes, and press "Auto" it'll start blowing cold air for 5-10 minutes, then usually reverts back to compressor off and cabin warming again.
3. (this is the weird one!) if I downshift into 5th gear and make the engine run anywhere at or over 2000RPM the A/C compressor goes back on immediately (within 5 seconds) and the cabin stays beautiful and cold the entire time I keep the engine over 2000RPM -- OR If I drive faster (get on the freeway or a faster section of highway) where I can go >70mph / 110kmh and keep the engine at or over 2000RPM the A/C stays on forever.
I drive 85 miles (135km) each way to and from work 3 days a week -- I have 2 choices of how to drive 40 of those miles - on the freeway at 70mph, but with tons of construction and slowdowns, or on a nice 2 lane country highway along 40 miles of beautiful riverfront with no towns, no construction and no traffic. I've experimented with this every day the temps have been in the 70's (F) or 20s (C) this spring and it's 100% consistent to those 3 rules above - it doesn't change - it's always that way. If I stay on the fwy and stay at >70mph, the A/C runs 100% of the time flawless and the car stays at my preset temp (19C / 66F). If I get off the fwy and take the 2 lane hwy, as soon and as long as my engine RPM's are <2000 and I'm more than 30 minutes into the drive - everything I list above happens. Anyone else???
2015 EX-V6. Out of warranty (110,000km) so if I have to take it in, it's out of my pocket, so trying to diagnose what I can on my own first.
What's wrong:
Start car. Drive for first 30 minutes (almost exactly from when I push the button to start the engine) and the A/C works fine no matter what I'm doing - slow city driving, highway, country roads, etc.
After 30 minutes if I drive at a speed where the engine is below 2000RPM (especially country roads with a 50mph/80kmh speed limit, where the engine is about 1600RPM) the A/C compressor turns off - it stays in "recirc", the fan speed continuously increases trying to keep the cabin cool but it can't (air coming through vents gets warmer and warmer) - no restriction - air is blowing full force - but the compressor is obviously not running.
What I do and it's effects are what's weird:
1. If I press the "AC" button 3 times (not once.. not twice.. exactly 3 times) so it goes "light on, off, on" the A/C compressor will kick on and run for about 3 - 4 minutes, the cabin cools quickly and nicely during that time, and then it turns back off and the cabin starts to warm up again (no matter what the temp setting is).
2. If I press the "Off" button on the climate control and wait at least 2-3 minutes, and press "Auto" it'll start blowing cold air for 5-10 minutes, then usually reverts back to compressor off and cabin warming again.
3. (this is the weird one!) if I downshift into 5th gear and make the engine run anywhere at or over 2000RPM the A/C compressor goes back on immediately (within 5 seconds) and the cabin stays beautiful and cold the entire time I keep the engine over 2000RPM -- OR If I drive faster (get on the freeway or a faster section of highway) where I can go >70mph / 110kmh and keep the engine at or over 2000RPM the A/C stays on forever.
I drive 85 miles (135km) each way to and from work 3 days a week -- I have 2 choices of how to drive 40 of those miles - on the freeway at 70mph, but with tons of construction and slowdowns, or on a nice 2 lane country highway along 40 miles of beautiful riverfront with no towns, no construction and no traffic. I've experimented with this every day the temps have been in the 70's (F) or 20s (C) this spring and it's 100% consistent to those 3 rules above - it doesn't change - it's always that way. If I stay on the fwy and stay at >70mph, the A/C runs 100% of the time flawless and the car stays at my preset temp (19C / 66F). If I get off the fwy and take the 2 lane hwy, as soon and as long as my engine RPM's are <2000 and I'm more than 30 minutes into the drive - everything I list above happens. Anyone else???
If one has a extended 100k mile warranty and the AC Compressor went out... would that be something covered under the warranty. Its a 2015 Kia Sorento with 65k miles and I just bought it last year. Since it previously was a rental car and it had a lot of miles I decided to get the extended warranty... but would it cover a broken AC Component? Any info I much appreciate
I appreciate the very accurate and precise description of your trouble....
Full automatic HVAC is hard to diagnose because it involves all sensors, computer logic and hardware. From a purely hardware point of view, it would be like it lacks a bit of A/C fluid....but at that age, it should not have lost much.
And a "real" fault (I understand what you describe is real, of course) would normally pop a code ....THen I think the computer sees something that is marginally normal (no code) but that makes it take a wrong decision. I still think a low "low pressure" reading could have that effect, either real (lack of fluid) , of faulty low pressure sensor....but that is based on old time hardware thinking....
I'll dig into the shop manual and try to figure something out....
Does anyone have any luck with Kia Corporate in regards to this issue?
We have a 2014 Sorento and have been blown off by Thorton Rd Kia in the Atlanta area. Even after telling them about the Service Letter they don't want to do anything?
Since your service department is not willing to duplicate the problem I have on a recent trip to southwest Alabama. The 5 hour drive during temperatures of low 90's the AC worked fine. A second 3 1/2 hour trip the following day to Dauphin Island in the 90's the AC worked fine going down and 3 1/2 hours coming back. The third day a 45 minute ride to Mississippi the AC worked fine both ways. The fourth day on the way home however the AC froze up about 3 1/2 hours into our commute back to Winston GA. After pulling over I popped the hoods while my 3 and 5 yr olds cooled off and found two lines frozen going into a module at the vehicle firewall. If this was a leak then the AC would not work and would continue to loose cooling capabilities. This seems either a sensor which the Service Letter states or a manifold issue that is causing those lines to freeze up as seen in the attached picture. If you have a qualified technician to address the issue I would appreciate a reply and a loaner vehicle for a couple of days!
We have a 2014 Sorento and have been blown off by Thorton Rd Kia in the Atlanta area. Even after telling them about the Service Letter they don't want to do anything?
Since your service department is not willing to duplicate the problem I have on a recent trip to southwest Alabama. The 5 hour drive during temperatures of low 90's the AC worked fine. A second 3 1/2 hour trip the following day to Dauphin Island in the 90's the AC worked fine going down and 3 1/2 hours coming back. The third day a 45 minute ride to Mississippi the AC worked fine both ways. The fourth day on the way home however the AC froze up about 3 1/2 hours into our commute back to Winston GA. After pulling over I popped the hoods while my 3 and 5 yr olds cooled off and found two lines frozen going into a module at the vehicle firewall. If this was a leak then the AC would not work and would continue to loose cooling capabilities. This seems either a sensor which the Service Letter states or a manifold issue that is causing those lines to freeze up as seen in the attached picture. If you have a qualified technician to address the issue I would appreciate a reply and a loaner vehicle for a couple of days!
I have the EXACT problem now and in GA too. None of the dealers helped even after I brought it in one day with the issue happening. Now the car’s out of warranty and its a hot and humid GA summer and its doing it again. This seems to be a big issue with the sorento’s from 2014-2015 and nobody can find a solution.
Has anyone found a solution to this issue of a freeze up?
Has anyone found a solution to this issue of a freeze up?
If you have the problem documented on a work order and not fixed go to another dealer and/or contact customer relations at Kia direct. They can have it escalated to a regional rep. Time is your enemy doing nothing with warranty wanning.
Question to anyone out here with access to a service manual. Do our Sorentos have a temperature sensor embedded in the AC evaporation coil monitored by the ECM ? It's to prevent freeze up of the coil, software usually cuts off or slows down (variable compressors) output at 34*F (1.1* C) and turns it back on at 36*F (2.2* C).
My warranty's now out so I'm SOL with that. I have a mechanic/personal friend who's been looking at it and just waiting for the problem to sprout up again. I already tried with resting codes by unplugging the battery. So far, no issues but will be taking a long road trip to see.
Eventually I'll more than likely sell as this issue has left me dissapointed with three dealerships & Kia Corp either telling me it's normalor they cannot recreate the issue. All it takes is one bad experience to lose a customer....
Eventually I'll more than likely sell as this issue has left me dissapointed with three dealerships & Kia Corp either telling me it's normalor they cannot recreate the issue. All it takes is one bad experience to lose a customer....
Dealers don't do anything unless 100% broke, not working aparently. They charge for redoing a charge they don't do right the first time.
I had the Freeze up happen right after an expensive repair. The had to replace a lower compressor discharge hose which started leaking over the winter. Next day it was freezing up on 110km/hr drive on our main hwy. Turn off AC blower started blowing air again proving its several time on the drive.
Running with Recirculate on will minimize this according to the Tech. I took it back to the dealer who rechecked found two more leaks and charged me over $200 again to redo the AC refrigerant in the system. I was not done correctly the first time but won't admit it. Since then it no longer freezes up!! Also run cold for weeks now where it was barely cold before when not working.
I had the Freeze up happen right after an expensive repair. The had to replace a lower compressor discharge hose which started leaking over the winter. Next day it was freezing up on 110km/hr drive on our main hwy. Turn off AC blower started blowing air again proving its several time on the drive.
Running with Recirculate on will minimize this according to the Tech. I took it back to the dealer who rechecked found two more leaks and charged me over $200 again to redo the AC refrigerant in the system. I was not done correctly the first time but won't admit it. Since then it no longer freezes up!! Also run cold for weeks now where it was barely cold before when not working.
My charge is gone now after 2 years of use. I looked under the hookd there is no sticker stating type nor system capacity typically placed for shops to know how much the system holds. I check doors and glove box.
Anyone know on a 2015 SX where its located. I think its 134a here in Canada but guessing is not what I want. I wasn't going to go to a dealer this time if at all possible.
Edit:
I looked in the manual and the label is supposed to be on the front frame right side under the hood it appears. I looked at a dealer work order from 2 years ago. They used 134a, well that clarifies that. But quatity etc is now lost. I can't say I every noticed a label there. I do the oil changes and would have noticed it. Parts stores hear only carry the 12x compatible refrigerant which contaminates the system. This is not want I want.
Anyone know on a 2015 SX where its located. I think its 134a here in Canada but guessing is not what I want. I wasn't going to go to a dealer this time if at all possible.
Edit:
I looked in the manual and the label is supposed to be on the front frame right side under the hood it appears. I looked at a dealer work order from 2 years ago. They used 134a, well that clarifies that. But quatity etc is now lost. I can't say I every noticed a label there. I do the oil changes and would have noticed it. Parts stores hear only carry the 12x compatible refrigerant which contaminates the system. This is not want I want.
The label on my 2015 SX (w/front and rear AC) says " R-134A 750+/- .25G " I assume the G is Grams when the system is completely flushed. If so then you need to look at also adding oil for what units are flushed out . I have them if you are flushing the syatem.
Here is a pic from the svc manual of pressure and inside air vent temp specs. A refill kit w/a gauge on low side will help verify , unless you have a full manifold gauge set that reads Hi and Lo. I have both and use the low as a quick check...
Look at low pressure when AC is running w/high blower (as a pre check it should be somewhere near60-80 lbs w/engine off) and then sucked down when compressor cuts on and follows the chart. If it goes below about 20 lbs the compressor will not start up or cut off. Just realized my numbers are in US lbs, you will have to convert...
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Here is a pic from the svc manual of pressure and inside air vent temp specs. A refill kit w/a gauge on low side will help verify , unless you have a full manifold gauge set that reads Hi and Lo. I have both and use the low as a quick check...
Look at low pressure when AC is running w/high blower (as a pre check it should be somewhere near60-80 lbs w/engine off) and then sucked down when compressor cuts on and follows the chart. If it goes below about 20 lbs the compressor will not start up or cut off. Just realized my numbers are in US lbs, you will have to convert...
@bobdec
Thanks for the info. I am not doing it myself. I thought of buying those compatible cans with the filler gauge hose but its not pure 134a but some subsitute. Only shops can buy 134a here. I am going to see if my local garage can do it. If its a big deal I may just start topping up and adding some lub occasionally. There is no way to know how much is still in the system without a full servicing sequence where they vacuum it clean.
Thanks for the info. I am not doing it myself. I thought of buying those compatible cans with the filler gauge hose but its not pure 134a but some subsitute. Only shops can buy 134a here. I am going to see if my local garage can do it. If its a big deal I may just start topping up and adding some lub occasionally. There is no way to know how much is still in the system without a full servicing sequence where they vacuum it clean.
Never realized you banned R134A in Canada.. Is it possible the Kia's imported to Canada have something else in thier systems.
In any case attached is the 134 system AC chart from my USA SX , it gives the PAG oil capacity. Note it's 180 +/- 10 cc's w/front and rear AC. A slow leak in the AC usually does not loose a lot of oil, but it's something to consider if you're adding refrigerant often. A loss of multiple cc's should leave a visible trace of oil at he leak site.
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In any case attached is the 134 system AC chart from my USA SX , it gives the PAG oil capacity. Note it's 180 +/- 10 cc's w/front and rear AC. A slow leak in the AC usually does not loose a lot of oil, but it's something to consider if you're adding refrigerant often. A loss of multiple cc's should leave a visible trace of oil at he leak site.
Yes in Canada you can just buy (Canadian TIre or Princess AUto) what they call R12A....which is pure propane, thus highly flammable.
However 2 or 3 years ago I was able to buy a 12oz can of R134A at Wal Mart web...imported from USA..delivered at my local WM (around 50C$) for wife's Suzuki SX4
see below: empty can of R134A, R12A provision from PrincessAuto, original R12
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