Number ONE suggestion...DO NOT "top up" the filler neck, It will send raw gas into the EVAP system which it is NOT what it is designed to handle. Check and make sure ALL rubber hoes to the intake manifold are in good condition, no splits/cracks or "soft feel" on the ends. MY supposition is also that you have more than 100k on the "clock" and could probably use a set of spark plugs.

 

It has 166,000 km. I just bought 4 new spark plugs but reframed from putting them on yet because of these other issues. I never put enough gas in it to top up.

Would bad hoses cause the car to stall after getting gas? I was going to replace the hoses that are connected to the purge valve anyway. Just remembered that i also disconnected the rubber boot from the throttle body, but it doesn't seem there's anything wrong with it.

 

The "boot" between the intake manifold and air cleaner assy. must also be sealed(clamped) securely and not have any holes or cracks in it either or it will cause idle/stalling troubles. seems there are a few threads with your similar concerns for your model, try reading up on them.

 

I've been reading up about it quite a bit. Thing is, this only happens immediately after filling up. Once i get it started, it doesn't happen again until i put more gas in. I noticed my gas cap is loose so i'll buy a new one tomorrow. When i filled up today, i didn't get the code for the purge solenoid again (since i cleaned it) just the P0171. Seems the purge solenoid is the most common issue with stalling after refueling..

 

Gas Cap

Mine was doing this around 140k, it was my gas cap. Replaced it with another didnt have another problem.

 

Mine was doing this around 140k, it was my gas cap. Replaced it with another didnt have another problem.

Having the same problem. Did you ever figure out what was causing it and how did you fix it?

Did you miss the post above yours?

 

Having the same problem. Did you ever figure out what was causing it and how did you fix it?

 

Thanks for following up with the solution. Glad it worked for you. I've been having the same problem myself, but with no OBDII codes (except a general P0650 MIL malfunction that may or may not mask more serious codes). I.e. only after a fill-up. How much did the purge valve cost and was it hard to DIY? Does this model have only one purge valve or are there several, and if so which one do I need to replace?

Also, out of curiosity, does anyone have any idea why a bad purge valve would cause the engine to stall after and only after a fill-up? Could it be because the new fuel is colder (I assume) than the existing fuel, and that somehow confuses the valve, or causes the ECU to confuse the valve? Or, perhaps, the resulting change in the fuel tank vapor pressure is throwing things off that a new valve would compensate for? Is there a sensor in the valve that's malfunctioning, or perhaps the valve solenoid, and in either case how and why would this happen only after a fill-up?

Btw, unrelated except that it has to do with replacing an often overlooked but important "minor" part, but while checking for loose wires to fix an electrical issue, I pulled out the cabin air filter and man was it disgustingly filthy. It might never have been replaced (on an over 150k miles car) and why the air blower had to be replaced a while back (when my dad owned it). I'm going to order and put in a new one this week. Amazon sells an aftermarket one for around $11 that has a carbon element, which apparently the OEM one does not. My lungs will be happy.