I don't know your car but when you say replacement radio was the one prior the factory original? Were all those wires already cut and stripped? or is that after you've cut the plugs off?

Could this be a model with the amp under the seat? Maybe that could be part of the problem with no sound? You could be sending the output to the input of the amp but it may need other signal to be active?

 

 

I’m no electronics wizard so when I replaced my 07 Rondo cd radio ( after the second OEM CD died) I just went on eBay on ordered a prewired harness for maybe $12 or so. Definitely easy job after that.

 

Yes it has the amp under the seat with a 7 speaker system I believe. Whenever I look up schematics it says amp n/a like above.
update , notice one of the wire from stereo was hanging out. Going to chalk it up as a cheap cheap steren my way to pick up a pioneer Bluetooth dash. I’ll keep you posted and if this doesn’t work guess I will look at the speakers and hope lol. I never cut the harness like it did above. But I couldn’t find a harness locally and was to eager to listen to my phone music and not cd’s. (Always forget what cd is in what slot)

 

I really think the amp will be the issue unless the wiring has been modified to bypass it to the speakers direct. Those wires where the factory radio was are all going to go to that AMP on the input side. These would be low signal output from the head unit not what I'm guessing is an amplified output from this aftermarket unit. The AMP will also have a remote control from the factory head unit so that when the head unit is on the amp is active, when it's off it will be off. I expect by default if that connection is not there AMP will be off. The car speaker connections will be terminated to the output of the AMP under the seat.

 

Here's the pinout for the factory stereo and the amplifier. If you are installing a new head unit, you will need to match up the wires from the new stereo to the car's wiring harness.
Stereo Pinout
Amp Pinout

Also, here is the wiring diagram for the stereo + amplifier.
Wiring-1, Wiring-2

If you have the option on the new head unit, you have to set the output to a low level signal to work with the amplifier. There are also videos out there showing how to bypass the amplifier completely.

 

So I have returned the aftermarket stereo. Debating if it’s worth it. Never had a car with a amp already installed. Do I need to get a special type of stereo to get it to work like normal ?
I remeber there being a blue wire on new stereos. called system Remote and I noticed on the diagram that the amp wire it’s also called amp remote” would these be the same or is it for the remote control to stereo? I thought those ran off IR signals. I’m am so confused. How should I go about installing a new one if I do get another. Seems so simple but yet so hard.

 

Dang forgot about these guys.

Crutchfield: Car Stereo and Audio, Speakers, Home Theater, Pro Audio, TVs

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update. So I reworded original harness so I could at least have some audio. Now I have no power to stereo. I have replaced the audio fuse, acces. Slot fuse and the clock fuse. I didn’t try the stereo after replacing the clock fuse. Does the whole control console need to be plugged in since it’s all integrated? (The piece with the hazard lights and a/c control, heater etc. etc.?
im hoping just a bad re wire but not sure.
thanks I’m advance

 

The stereo has its own connector that provides constant 12V and switched 12V. Shouldn't need anything else plugged in.

 

Sorry late update. Took it to Best Buy with schematic and they got it working. But I have horrible frequency whining and have lost dash/clock illumination. The speakers are also backwards. I think they just went with colors of wires. I also had them install a 4 line converter to use the amp.
going to have to back but finally some music.

 

So I went back after I noticed they wire the oem harness wrong, took in schematic with me. After all was said and done they told me they plugged the converter in backwards and I explained about my illumination problem and they said the radio I got doesn’t support it. Told them they wired the harness and did my schematic help? No we didn’t even use it. We just went with colors and gauges. They didn’t care and rushed me out of the bay.

I feel they are wrong right? I don’t see any manufacturers having a illumination for dash in the radio without knowing some radio don’t.
so I am going to have to fix what they did right? Is there a easy or “ghetto way” of getting them back? Everything else seems to work except that.

 

What is your illumination problem? The radio should not feed lighting to any other part of the car. There are separate wiring harnesses for the other areas of the center console. If the "dimmer" wire of the radio is hooked up wrong however, it can blow a fuse and cause other lights not to work.

 

@petergray8
With stock radio I had lights for my speedometer and rpms. Now I have no speedo light or dimmer light. And when I turn my headlights on I loose my clock light and mileage light. So at night I can’t tell my mileage or my speed.

 

@petergray8
With stock radio I had lights for my speedometer and rpms. Now I have no speedo light or dimmer light. And when I turn my headlights on I loose my clock light and mileage light. So at night I can’t tell my mileage or my speed.

This sounds like either a blown dimmer fuse, or your dimmer / illumination wire on the stereo is hooked up incorrectly. You should also check to make sure that your tail lights come on when you turn your headlights on. I blew a fuse in my corolla after I installed my radio because I didn't tape off the orange illumination light good enough (the stereo didn't make use of that wire).

 

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When I turn my headlights on to just amber it’s clicks like a turn signal. The cab lights when I turn the dimmer all the up but no other lights

 

@petergray8
got fuses, checked every fuse inside cabin with continuity and all were good. checked under hood and all were goog as well, even swapped horn relay to headligh relays. since they are the same (horn/ L beam/ H beam) no change. i even removed cluster panel to check bulbs, they were good too( i figured that since all the warning lights work but got to cross it off the list). so then i just started playing with the dimmer dial. when i turn up all the way until the click cabin lights come on (while car is running or powered on = normal). so started playing with the headlight switch, i heart a clicking once ambers are on. im not sure if this is normal as i only drive at night on my way home and radio is always playing. so after trying to hunt down click (sounds like a relay) i noticed that if i mute the music and turn radio all the way up, i can hear the click thru my speakers. any thoughts, its too hot for me to sit in the car for extended periods of time. im in AZ and its like 115+ everyday now. so i usually try and troubleshoot in the mornings lol.

NOTE: every light works on =the cluster panel like airbag, brake, open door, tcs, when turning key on. once i turn my headlights to ambers my clock light and mileage light go out. my clock is located in the center console above the radio and obviously my mileage is in the cluster.
i want to thank you for all the help and all the patience as well.

this is the radio....and line converter
stereo
audio line converter

 

ok this is going to sound crazy, but looking at the diagram from above ( thanx @petergray8 ) but maybe when they rewired the oem harness they mixed up the illumination positive wire and the RR negative wire? like i said sounds crazy but from looking at schematic..

yellow has 2 wires= illumination positive, and right rear negative
white has 2 wires as well= steering wheel control but stereo doesn't have that option so cant test, front rear negative

all other options that have multiple colors are working
black= front right positive, rear right positive, and ground.

and after a little parts shopping the only dimmer relay i could find is in the turn signal/headlight switch, but the clicking is coming from next to interior fuse box

 

This is possible, I suppose. Here's a link to the wiring diagram for the illumination system as it pertains to the audio system - this matches up with the Ill+ and Ill- wires on the first wiring diagram I posted. Illumination wiring

I would pull the stereo back out, and make sure that the thicker yellow wire is in pin 15, and the thinner yellow wire is in pin 5.

 

sorry guys work has been super busy and i have had no time. first of all thank everyone for the help!
especially @petergray8 .it ended up being the the dimmer control switch located on the turn signal lever. a buddy of mine found a harness for the dash for very cheap so we replaced that and then replaced the turn switch. all is well.

 

Glad you've got it figured out.

 

well after a week trip to California for some vacation and 2-3 months of borrowing my mother in laws car, (for it to run properly, i would have to warm up, turn off and wait 5 mins) gave up and returned it back. come to find out it was moisture getting into the coil, funny i mentioned this to him a weeks ago or a bad seal as it was really humid lately.

i got the rondo back, homeboy told me its the BCM, or something like that, i was so irritated that he didnt follow thru after this long..i keept getting the "next weekend, guy has the part just need to put it n". still waiting MONTHS later.
is it under the glovebox by kickpanel or is it by the steering wheel? cant seem to find a definate answer and really have no time to really investigate.

 

I thought your Rondo was fixed? What issues are you seeing now?

The BCM is behind the panel below the steering wheel. You need to take off the driver side panel that is covering the interior fuse box, and then the lower crash pad under the steering wheel. Here's a relatively small photo showing the connectors on the BCM. The white box to the left of the labels is the interior fuse box. You can also see the top of the brake pedal where it goes through the firewall directly below the BCM. May be able to get to it from underneath? There are 2 bolts holding it in.

 

@petergray8 , you are awesome!
i have been really busy at work, working on a promotion so no real free time. with the picture i was able to find and remove the unit. replacement should be here today.
i removed the BCM and removed housing, looked like it was dipped in some clear rubber, the only damage i could find was a little melted spot on top of a chip. didn't see any damage due to shorting out of excessive heat like you would on a mobo. So that got me think maybe the headlight switch. then it occurred to me to test the BCM. so i would connect/disconnect battery and remove one harness at a time.click went away after the first attempt. followed the harness plug on the mobo and sure enough it leads to the chip with missing rubber.
WOOP WOOP so hopefully thats the issue.
again thank you petergray!