[rawfuls]

First, my cup holder is pretty spastic.
Sometimes after opening, upon close, it just won't close.
It won't 'latch on' so it remains open.

After awhile, if I push just hard enough, or at a weird angle, it'll close perfectly.
Sometimes, it just won't.

Another issue, I'm wanting to wire up some lights, that will come on when the doors are open.
Primarily, I want one in the trunk (since there are zero lights back there).

Or, I'd want some LED bars (I can get my hands on some 12V LED strips without a single issue) and wire them up in the floor area, ie. under the front seats, or under the glovebox?

Anywhere I can tap into the 12V source without much trouble?
I have plenty of experience in soldering.
It's just wiring that I'm scared of.

A plus to this is to have it go with the sound of music, but that is just a gimmick, and not a necessity.

Any exp or advice?

 

[tommyleea]

Not sure on the cup holder. You should have a light in the back cargo area, however if you want more you can check out Autozone. They have several LED setups that you could experiment with. I believe some respond to sound. As far as power you could use the lighter socket, or tap into your fuse box. Several options for power. Cheers

 

[rawfuls]

There's a very small light IIRC, either that, or it's burnt out.
In either case, I'd rather use some LED strips I can have easy access to.

I stopped by Pepboys on the way home, and noticed they had bars and strips for.... well, a LOT of money.

Being an avid R/C-hobbyist, I have access to these:
HobbyKing R/C Hobby Store : Turnigy High Density R/C LED Flexible Strip-White (1mtr)

And as you can see, they are incredibly low priced, as compared to the ones from Pepboys.
And after looking carefully into the container @ pepboys, it looks like they use the same exact strips, just with wires on, and then branded.

A little sketchy if you ask me.

In either case, my main question is how would I tape into 12V power, which would ONLY activate when doors are open?
Is there a fuse for that?

How would I tape into this exact fuse?

Obviously, want to keep the majority (if not all) wiring stock, and don't want to mess too much around.

The trunk cargo area should be easy, if I ever need lighted access, I can flip a switch, and I can run off the cigarette socket back there, so that is not much of an issue.

 

[upyourkia]

Remove the dome light and tap into it there, the switches in the doors complete the circuit by going to ground. Therefore, you will always have 12v+ so wire it accordingly.

Get your multimeter out and figure out where to attach the new wires you could run to the back of the car between the roof and headliner. Then you just hook up your led's. If you use led's you won't need to worry about current draw.
UPYOURKIA

 

[rawfuls]

Sounds like a pretty fun job.. exciting, taking off my headliner.

Any other way I could tap into that circuit?
Perhaps through the floor fuse box? That would provide the easiest installation.

 

[upyourkia]

Why do you think you need to remove the headliner? I just ran a fish tape from the back to the dome light. If you don't want to do that, just run a wire down to the back courtesy light and up to your lights.
I have all kinds of lights in mine. It's set up for hunting so all my lights are red led's and red cffl's, so you don't step out of the car and can't see where your going.
It's pretty bright between the 2 types.

UPYOURKIA

 

[rawfuls]

Hmm, how did you get the fish tape between the roof and headliner?
Or did you have the wires running over the headliner?
I wanted to make this as concealed as possible?

I'm more of a visual person, so if you've got any pictures, that'd be more than helpful.

Had some advice from somebody else who recommended that I just tap into the +12V supply in the Driver's Kick Panel- Fuse Box, and then the -12V from the door switch.
Together, they'd run the LED strip properly (theoretically), and would be much more simpler.. until I get to the passenger side.

The dome light sounds much simpler, if I could find out how to fish tape easily.
Could I still utilize the dome light lamp?

 

[upyourkia]

Sorry, no pictures of the work as it was being done, and wire is concealed between the headliner and the roof.
UPYOURKIA

 

[rawfuls]

How and where did you get the fishtape to go in, and then exit?

 

[GottaCruise]

...
Had some advice from somebody else who recommended that I just tap into the +12V supply in the Driver's Kick Panel- Fuse Box, and then the -12V from the door switch.
Together, they'd run the LED strip properly (theoretically), and would be much more simpler.. until I get to the passenger side.

....
Could I still utilize the dome light lamp?

Depending on the amount of lighting, using the -12V feed from the door switches would be easiest, but would recommend setting up a (relay) as a negative trigger and using -that- as the power feed for your lighting - the wiring used is thin (18 gauge), and also interfaces with the ETACS/ETWIS module..

Using a relay would prevent any voltage / amp draw issues w/ the additional lighting.

re: Dome light - there are (2) wires running to the assembly, a light green and yellow wire. Confirm using a multimeter / continuity test, but per the ETM schematics on the kiatechinfo website / the parts Sporty here, it's the (yellow) wire that is -12V.

Or, tap into (1) of the door switch wires and continuity test opening (multiple) doors: again per the schematic they (splice) into a common feed to the ETACS/ETWIS unit, so if (1) is active, -12V "should" be available through all feeds / wires. (Again, see above about using a relay / watching excessive amp draw on the circuit.)

Hope this helps.

 

[rawfuls]

Hmm, at this point going with the dome light method seems the easiest and most convenient, until I need to hide the wiring.

There should be a +12V and a -12V on the domelight, right?
I assume the yellow would be the -12V, and the green +12V?

 

[GottaCruise]

Hmm, at this point going with the dome light method seems the easiest and most convenient, until I need to hide the wiring.

There should be a +12V and a -12V on the domelight, right?
I assume the yellow would be the -12V, and the green +12V?

Correct, but you should confirm yourself with a multimeter - an inexpensive digital multimeter can be purchased for about $10 dollars..

(It's always a good idea to confirm voltage polarity, before tapping into existing wiring -> hooking up electrical accessories.)

 

[rawfuls]

Took off the cover of the dome light this morning on the way to school, and looks like both wires are gray.
Multimeter can solve that pretty easily.

However, what I am worried and still unknown about, is how am I going to run wires back to the trunk cargo area.
Also still stumped on how to do the floors.
I guess removing lots of trim will be required, all around.

Also been thinking about going with one of the LED dome lights:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-SUPER-WH...Sportage|Make:Kia&hash=item2c6437ff3a&vxp=mtr

So I can ease up on the current draw overall...

Is there anything down near the floorboards of the front seats, that I could tap into?
Say, the bell or a light?
I'm trying to find spots that are as close as possible to the destination in which I want to place them.
(Under Front/Passenger Seating [provide ample lighting for backseat passengers] and then in the floor area for the passenger/driver).
Also, something for the trunk cargo...
I couldn't find a light back there, maybe I'm just missing it?

 

[GottaCruise]

Took off the cover of the dome light this morning on the way to school, and looks like both wires are gray.
Multimeter can solve that pretty easily.

However, what I am worried and still unknown about, is how am I going to run wires back to the trunk cargo area.
Also still stumped on how to do the floors.
I guess removing lots of trim will be required, all around.

Also been thinking about going with one of the LED dome lights:
2X SUPER WHITE LED DOME MAP INTERIOR LIGHT BULBS 12 SMD PANEL HID XENON #A1 | eBay

So I can ease up on the current draw overall...

Is there anything down near the floorboards of the front seats, that I could tap into?
Say, the bell or a light?
I'm trying to find spots that are as close as possible to the destination in which I want to place them.
(Under Front/Passenger Seating [provide ample lighting for backseat passengers] and then in the floor area for the passenger/driver).
Also, something for the trunk cargo...
I couldn't find a light back there, maybe I'm just missing it?

Those led lights look good - they should work fine as an upgrade replacement. (Looking to order a set myself, thanks for posting the link.) :thumbsup:

You are going to have to remove some trim, however you decide to work out the wiring under the seats. If I was doing this, I would remove each door sill plate, pop up the plastic buttons securing the carpet to the body, and route the wiring alongside the wire looms running underneath -> to under the seats.

re: Where to tap, for (switched) negative, would look into locating the wire from each door switch, again testing to ensure you get (-12v) on either side, regardless which door is opened. Just remember this is an (isolated) ground, e.g. a trigger ground, so it's important to keep this ground separate from (frame) ground.. If you splice into the door switch wires.

For positive (+12) volt, you will need to either use a fuse tap that supplies +12v with key off,

or run a separate tap from battery -> through the grommet on the back firewall, in the area of the brake booster on the US model -> into the passenger cabin to use as your feed. (If you do this, use a (14) or (12) gauge wire so you have ample supply for future accessories.)

From there, suggest mounting a power distribution tap underneath in the area of the steering column on the dash underside.

From there, you can install a (disable) switch at the dashboard, if you want to control the extra lighting -> and run power (+12v) from the switch to underneath the sills -> to the seat exit points, alongside the negative feeds above.

Using cable ties to secure the wiring to the existing looms will keep everything secure - be sure to use 1/8" or 1/4" wire loom cover, if running over any areas on the floorboard that may chafe wiring (keep it safe).

I would terminate wires with plug connectors: and allow enough (extra) wiring under seat to allow for movement with the seat track.

If you spend the extra time / a few extra $$ to do the installation right up-front, you will be able to enjoy your lighting for years to come.

Best of luck w/ the project. Let us know how it turns out !

 

[rawfuls]

FWIW: Found a cheaper source!
WHITE 12V 12-SMD T10 LED PANEL DOME INTERIOR MAP LIGHT | eBay

Look like exactly the same, just, cheaper.

I'm mostly worried about tapping into the door switch, and how to access the door switch, and how to hook up to the 12V

Honestly, I'm more of a "give me orders, and i'll do it" type of a guy, as compared to a "ooh, this looks fun, I wonder what this does".

Soooo, in this case; if you were in my situation how would you do it?

Obviously, trying to minimize the amount of work to be done, and whatnot, so the closet the source is to the destination would be quicker.

I was also thinking, if I were to be able to tap into both sources which were located under the dash, I'd be able to run the driver/passenger very easily because of the empty area, next to the gas pedal, and would be very easy to run wiring down there.

Though, the front seats are the worst.

 

[GottaCruise]

I'll check some more wiring on the parts Sporty tomorrow am, if I am able to find an easy point to tap into for the negative door trigger, will take pics and post.

The positive feed: Auto Zone, Advance Auto, or other auto parts stores sell a 12 volt (mini) fuse power tap that will allow you to get the +12v feed directly at the fuse box, fyi.

 

[rawfuls]

I'll check some more wiring on the parts Sporty tomorrow am, if I am able to find an easy point to tap into for the negative door trigger, will take pics and post.

The positive feed: Auto Zone, Advance Auto, or other auto parts stores sell a 12 volt (mini) fuse power tap that will allow you to get the +12v feed directly at the fuse box, fyi.

Sweet!
That would be PERFECT!

The fuse tap will be great as well, which feed would provide a constant +12V when car is still off, though?

 

[GottaCruise]

re: fuse tap -

The Headlamp, Marker Lamps, or Brake lamp fuses - all have power on the feed side when the motor is off / key is out.

 

[rawfuls]

Sweet, things are lookin' up!

I've found a pretty cheap source..
LED Strip Lights

Much cheaper than my old sources.

I'm guessing the marker lamps would probably be the safest one to tap into..?

 

[GottaCruise]

re: marker lamp fuse, for just the (low amperage) led lighting, it should be fine - I'll check what gauge wiring is back there to confirm in the am.

** For a sound / lighting "music" beat controller, would recommend running the (separate) power feed from battery -> into the cabin, and setting up an isolated (negative trigger relay) if needed though. The DRL / Flasher / ETWIS module(s) do not react well to overamp'ing the circuit(s)..