i think amsoil is the best oil if you are going to do extended oil change (7,500-15,000) but you have to order one line or find a private dealer. mobil one is good oil. use the 5-20 as recommended.

 

All Synthetic oil will be "the best oil" depending on who you talk to. Pick the one that is easiest for you to get and for the lowest cost.

Your 276HP Engine won't see any difference between Castrol, Pennzoil, Valvoline, ...

Btw, don't forget that you should get a REBATE on your Oil change at the dealer since they wont have to supply any oil fo rthe oil change

My last oil change used 5 quarts of oil. I was left with the 6th one full.

 

Pennzoil Platinum is one of the best values in syns, and it performs well in used oil analyses.

 

The debate will go on for centuries of "WHICH OIL IS BEST". If you go FULL SYNTH most all are great and yes better then DINO stuff. If you are going to use a wacko REALLY LONG extended drain sched then some makers will tell you thiers is better for that then others. If you use a normal drain sched then most all are fine. And you will pay big diff in $ for both. That said NO a 5QT jug is NOT FINE for a 5.49QT fill. That is 5 and a HALF quarts! So you are shorting the vech a full half a qt if you do that. Sorta like driving it a half a qt low from day one. Or flipside of useing the 5qt jug for a 4.5 qt fill and over filling it then. Not the smartest crayon in the box if you do that are you. If it were 4.9 or 5.1 qts no real harm would come from it and a 5qt jug. But yes 5.49 or 5.5 is not to be played or shorted with if smart. So yes buy the value priced (due to less packageing cost) 5qt jug for sure and a extra QT this time. And next time use the other half qt and only have to buy the 5qt jug. Every two changes you will use the second qt up then. No waste at all.
Even WALMART SUPERTECH 5w20 FULL SYNTH is a great value and good oil to use I use it from time to time when the MAJOR BRANDS are being priced right (not on sale) then out of thier cotton pickin minds. The SUPERTECH FULL SYNTH 10w30 is NOT a good oil I have found. Thou it meets API SPEC. So be carefull. Value brands like WALMART vary alot. Not all are the same maker in the bottle in ALL GRADES. WALMART just happens to buy right and a great SYNTH oil form a major maker in 5w20/5w30, but not really the 10w30 to get the price they need to and then sell at a price you will pay. Walmart SYNTH 5w20/5w30 5qt jug=@$17.50,Mobil1 5w20 5qt jug= @$28.99 at Walmart. In a parts store MOBIL1 is most times @$7-8 qt or 5qt jug for @$34.99.

BTW. KIA tells us to use 5w20 oil. Or 5w30 if you can not find 5w20 very easy in your location. If you you can get it use 5w20, as 5w30 will tend to slightly effect the MPG you get. And THAT is just why KIA told you to use it. So do not go and complain to KIA or others about mpg if you use 5W30. You now know why 5w20 was told to be used, and if you do not use it and get LESS MPG the you think is your right get. Your the one that changed (didnt follow) the ground rules mid game not KIA. Simple.


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Dino oils have come a long way in recent years, they are full of conditioners and other additives so I think the difference gap is much less than it used to be. Yes Synthetic is best, and will outperform in extreme conditions such as long increment change intervals, extreme heat (ex. agressive driving in hot desert conditions), long stop&go city commutes in very hot weather, very cold starts (in theory, I'm not sure if this is actually the case but many people will swear that this is true).

I really hesitate to say that synthetic oil will improve your performance or efficiency, it's probably true in "race car-like" extreme conditions or hot stop&go conditions but the difference may be so minimal that you'd never notice it. Also, how long do you plan to keep your vehicle? If you're going to drive it for 15+ years and you want 200,000 + miles then maybe synth is better over the very long run, in the short term I don't think the benefits are that significant.

I don't dispute that synthetic is better, but how much better is it for the average driver considering the additional cost? I drive conservatively and I change my oil frequently, every 3 months which will be maximum 2000 miles. I pay $39 bucks for a regular oil change which is recommended by Kia engineers who designed and tested this engine, I trust the engineers and feel confident in following their recommended maintenance schedule.

 

What you say is in basic form true. The AXIOM is keep the oil/fluids changed
and the vech will last. Short term or long term period. BUT I tend to think and have done it and know it to be true as other have as well. Synth just ADDS a bit more margin to it both in wear and tear ablitity. And that translates generally into less overall problems short or long term over time that you might miss with a quick fix or instant value performance mind set. But yes it is subjective yes for many such as your mind for sure. Unless you have done it and seen it first hand and felt it and lived it for long term over MANY vechs, it is something that can not be explained as you would just not get it as you never felt it or had it happen to you. I respect that too for sure. Somethings you must learn as they say the hard way or by doing it and life experience too. Many have had it and many have not. Even if one is 50 years old and think/says they have. But has not really in their life yet.

NOTE: these designers and engineers you speak of also tell us to never change the AUTO TRANS (or in my case the manual transaxle) fluid as it is "FILLED FOR LIFE", AKA 100K. Just when the warranty runs out too. Motive and credibilty issues come into question for me. Sorta like the LEMMING effect. Brain power is a wonderful thing at times.
WHOS LIFE are they refering to? Yours or the trans? where they stop paying for things at 100K? And you start to pay? and at possibliy 102K the trans croaks on YOUR dime? where if you had done the smart thing and not what those DESIGNERS and ENGINEERS told you and done every 35K trans fluid changes you would not have a new tans on order at 102K. Or in many cases in here 73K and not being covered for some reason. And someone is not very happy about that.


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04Sorento you make some very good points and I respect your experience and knowledge on this subject and have no doubt you are correct - you are slowly changing my mind!

The main reason I posted the counterpoint to synthetic was for the benefit of some less knowledgable people who may read this pro-synthetic thread and feel as though they need to switch to avoid doing a dis-service to their vehicle. Basic maintenance is fine and if you want to do better definately synthetic is a good way to go.

You are so right about the service intervals on transmissions, and you know what Kia is actually the first manufacturer I've ever had that includes changing the tranny fluid in their standard maintenance manual. The manual states that manual trans fluid (and I think the auto fluid too) should be changed after 4 years or I believe it's 60,000 miles. Never have I had a good answer to when a manual trans fluid should be performed, and auto trans change interval info. is pretty tough to come by easily too. Also the 2011 Sorento prescribes a change of coolant every 2 years which is amazingly short increment, but perhaps not a bad recommendation in the absence of "long-life" coolant (perhaps the coolant is not so "long-lived" but it is a designed system to stimulate repairs after warranty as you suggested).

 

Yes I agree with your motive. And I am not always compaigning for SYNTH. I agree if you use DINO and relly do the changes then that is fine for anyone that does not wish to go teh extra mile as they say and get the best form their investment. I also agree fully with you adn the vague at times COOLENT CHANGE sched they tell us in many manuals. Just like the trans fluid, it has a hidden agenda of helping in theory to make a sale of a Radiator,Water Pump,Heater core,Water valve,Hoses more possible. I have never like you, seen a vech that has had 24-36K/24-36 Month coolent changes ever have major repairs for that system. Outside normal oppsys and failures at times. But I have seen MANY vechs that were not done have minor to major issues and exspense. The problem with long life coolent is this. The coolent may be very good and fine and chem stable for long periods. But it is the junk that get in to it and clogs up stuff not the coolent. If one were to really look close at the LONG LIFE ideal they do not tell you. You would find that it omits the fact that yes you can use it long life, BUT while doing that you MUST hook it up to a $$$$$$ FILTER MACHINE every so often and much like a kinney dyalisis procedure filter it and then put it back. That one key thing makes ALL THE differnece in the world. No you do not buy new coolent. But over the years far too mnay have not done this at all and jsut read the half truth claims of it and moved on and clogged up things. And some have used the machine IF THEY CAN FIND ONE. So most times really it is far easier to jsut CHANGE all the coolent with new and move on fast and cheaper. One hour in your driveway and one gallon mixed with distilled water to 2 gallons 50-50% mix at $8 a gallon or less is far easier for everyone to get thier head around. Many people have never seen DEXCOOL (GM LONG LIFE) and what it becomes in there. But those that have will never do that again as they will never forget the sight they saw doing it. I did in a 2000 Saturn my son had in college. Orange Juice looking stuff NEW turned into a real ORANGE MILK SHAKE/vomit looking stuff and caused havick. And that was at 34k and 30 months time. Because the car was not put on the SATURN/GM Filter machine at 24k. By 45K the Water pump was history and the heater core was leaking and the radiator was only at 75% operating fuction and the lower 1/4 was filled with junk and grude. The auto trans was on it's way form the HEAT of a failed cooling system (rad) tied in trans cooler too. The car was then sold as it was not worth fixing really. The flip side was the 1995 Jeep Wrangler 4.0HO we got him with 75K on it to replace that, and had as well the DEXCOOL/JEEP long life stuff in it. Had had regular changes and was going stronge still OEM rad/water pump/ heater core at 102K when traded in on a new 2005 Ford Ranger EDGE at graduation form college entering the NAVY.


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04Sorento your last post regarding coolant was very good, great information. It is really great that Kia seems to be the only one recommending frequent coolant changes, some might say they're trying to generate service charge cash for the dealer but I think they're doing the opposite, trying to help the owner avoid costly repairs down the road. IT's too bad all manufacturers don't stand up for the owners more and recommend a proper flush interval.

 

Yes that is a good way to look at it too kerrton. I also feel that yes if a customer does not go back the dealer, but to a INDY or DIY route. And have little issues with the vech in general. And lower costs per-sa. Then they might be a bit more inclined to go back and trust the dealer for the big ticket items. Or ones that a KIA dealer is better in theory equipted to handle. Smaller common sense upkeep bill costs along the way equals happier customers. HUGE random BILLS for major issues equal a totally PO one. And the all too often mind set in here KIA BUILTS CRAP! And that plays into as well a better possible WARRNANTY bottom line for the company (able to do more easier for someone at times or in need). Rather then blood loss warrenty claims and harsh restrictions to contain them. And again happier customers for it. Nothing is free. But warranties can be really nice if you work with them and do small things to help keep yor vech in better shape. Not then to rely on the warrnety (get out of jail free card) to bail you out of the soup all the time. It is always your option to not do so. But it is better if you do see that. They will help you more (easier on grey areas) if you help them help you better more of the time with the upkeep you should be doing if smart. Sadly many in life do not see this fact here is no excpetion to that. And just think I paid for it once when I bought it and that is it, I do not nor should I HAVE TO do anything further. Let them fix it for free. And the sadness is deafening when they see the light of day later and A BILL. That is not how a 5/60-10/100 needs to work. And it is just why many makers still only give you 3/36K or 5/50K and that is it. They take YOU out of the loop. Customer pay kicks in faster less headaches then. "Most vechs can make it to 3/36-5/50K so we are SAFE" they say. After that let them pay for it not us. And in some ways I agree with Hyn/Kia and thier logic on the second owner thing. If you buy a used Hyn/Kia yo get only the 5/60K not the 5/60-10/100K. If you buy new and stick with them (the familiy) and keep the vech then you are rewarded by a 5/60-10/100K b-day gift for doing that. And a very reasonable NEW CAR 10/100K BUMPER TO BUMPER upgrade $. And that as well in general also keeps the extended warrenty upsell or option $ on USED car lower then normal. As if Hyn/Kia think it good to offer a 5/60-10/100 in the first place to FIRST OWNER then the INSURENCE campany is more likely to take the risk for a lower prem on used car to a SECOND owner to offer the bump-up from 5/60K only to a full 10/100K again or even a 10/100K BUPER TO BUMPER Exclusionary (tell you what is not covered not what is) with a very short list like I bought very cheap. $1701.05 with a ZERO (0) deduct for a 2004 (04/04, with inservice of 7/28/2004) Sorento bought used at 32xxx on 9/21/2007. Which would only have had a 5/60K on it or 22 more months (5/28/2009) and 28K miles left on it then. But I got till or 9/21/2014 (yes a paperwork quirk I know) or 100K. I was not complaining nor pointing it out to them either.


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Bottom line...they're all better than regular oil. I've been using Mobil 1 for 20 years now but for my Sorento I went with Pennzoil Ultra. No special reason other than to make it easier to track oil purchases for the Sorento in the event of warranty repairs to the engine. My other two vehicles are no longer under warranty, so I have no need to keep receipts for their oil and filters.

The reasons I went with synthetic oil are twofold. First of all, I keep my vehicles for a long time, so I have a vested interest in using premium products. The second reason is that synthetics are much better in colder climates. Even though I keep my vehicles in the garage, they do sit outside while I'm at work or running errands. Synthetics reduce the wear and tear of those cold starts.

 

My KIA dealer uses regular oil, however they use Mobil1 5W-20 if you prefer synthetic. I got the maintenance package but this only uses regular oil, so I had to pay the difference for the synthetic.

 

The primary justification for going to synthetic lube is to extend the oil-change mileage. My previous car was a BMW 545i, with a nominal change frequency of 20,000 miles. This is easily achievable with a full-synthetic oil and excellent oil filter (using expensive oil and inadequate filtration is the height of fiscal foolishness).

If you plan to change you oil every 2000 miles, you're completely wasting your money with synthetic, as well as wasting resources.

For more useful information, I highly recommend referring to the Motor Oil Bible. motoroilbible.com is run by an Amsoil (synthetic oil) distributor who actually tries to talk people out of buying synthetic oil. Go figure.

 

And mmartin0228 (I am not picking on you martin) is just the type of client he was talking about MaxBuck. Rather talk them out of it, then have them not understand it totally frontwards and backwards and the program that is to be followed for it. And come back later really not happy. He totally did not read the part "excellent filter" and substitued the word JIFFY LUBE. They do not MIX ever. Foolish to think or even think to be able to say it too. And OEM filter is the buck stops here too that is always argued too. It is not the only one you can buy for sure. But for most people it is a hard thing to listen too and get the point of what you NEED TO BUY to get a "excellent filter" MaxBuck. That is the reason, and no "go figure" is totally wrong. It is very wise business concept. Only those that really understand and will do it stick around to buy and move on with sale of product then. Very few ulcers customer caused then.

I use Synth in both cars and have in most all others over the years. Have not used OEM fiter always but many times have. I do right now as I got them cheap in case load. But always a very high quality filter. And then pull filter @4000 miles or 4 months and top off. Then every around fourth filter or 12.5-15K I dump all the oil and put on a filter again and start over fresh. That is what I have done for a long long time on many vechs. Almost all never used oil includeing the 89 F150 300 I6. Two used oil 85 Ford (U150) Bronco 302 V8 and 91 Ford Explorer 4.0L V6, and those I never used synth in. The industry standard (not mine) for useing oil is under 800-1000 miles per qt. The fords used 1500 per qt or more and 1800 per qt or more. I thought that to be useing it on my standards. But is was safe they said. Every other vech I have ever had was almost none/nil to over half a qt per @3500-4000K.

 

Ok. So let me get this straight.

If I go to one of those quick oil change places (such as Jiffy Lube or Pennzoil) and order their top of the line synthetic oil, then I won't have to change it again for at least 20,000 miles?

How does the Kia warranty handle that one?

The reason I ask is because when I visited one of those places before, they still recommended changing it at 3,000 miles even though it's synthetic and costs 3 times as much (from what I remember).

Mike

 

Ok. So let me get this straight.

If I go to one of those quick oil change places (such as Jiffy Lube or Pennzoil) and order their top of the line synthetic oil, then I won't have to change it again for at least 20,000 miles?

How does the Kia warranty handle that one?

Mike

Anyone that does this is walking the fine line. I have heard people calling Kia and getting permission so to speak for running extended oil changes using synthetic lube. You also have the claims of the oil manufacture that states their warranty. It all boils down to what you are willing to deal with. If you have deep pockets (using synthetic) and want to change every 3000 miles to keep a hassle free warranty with KIA or you can take the manufactures word that their oil is equal to or better and if you are denied a claim with KIA then deal with them. Remember, KIA cannot, in the end, legitimately deny a claim on an item that is not related to lube maintenance. If you show usage of a quality synthetic and a reasonable oil change interval they will be hard pressed to deny you. Let your pocket book and your ability to deal with stress be your guide.

 

AMSOIL!!!! Sorry I didn't see this post before. But Amsoil is your ticket. Best synthetic oil on the market. Completely reliable. 0 issues and 0 complaints thus far. Friend introduced me to it and haven't looked back since.

 

Just dropped off my '11 LX-V6 for service #2.

Left them with 5.4l of Mobil 1 Synthetic 5w20.

14,112km and lovin it.