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2003 Kia Sedona EX
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77 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I don't know how... just all of a sudden have a blown out brake line. Again, it's one that goes to the rear brakes and it's blown out near the fuel tank. Went to make a quick run to the store and brake pedal went right to the floor. Looked under the van and there's a huge puddle of fresh brake fluid. I just don't believe this!!

So looks like I'll be stopping at O'Reilly's to pick up another section of brake line and have to fix it yet again.
 

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2003 Kia Sedona EX
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77 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Got new brake line installed, just spliced in a new section using compression fittings. Now I have to bleed the lines, but can't because the bleeder screws are completely rounded over to the point that no wrench will grab hold. Any other way I can bleed them? Or am I stuck to replace the wheel cylinders?

I'm really starting to hate the Kia Sedona so much and most likely going to search up a Honda for replacement.
 

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Sedona '02
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155 Posts
Got new brake line installed, just spliced in a new section using compression fittings. Now I have to bleed the lines, but can't because the bleeder screws are completely rounded over to the point that no wrench will grab hold. Any other way I can bleed them? Or am I stuck to replace the wheel cylinders?

I'm really starting to hate the Kia Sedona so much and most likely going to search up a Honda for replacement.
if you can spare a spare drill bit that fits inside the bleeder screw, put it in there (as the bleeder screw is done anyways). Or, buy one at HF, they are really cheap. It will prevent collapse of the screw. Then, use vice grip to really tighten the screw and break open the bleeder. Or, use a small chisel to hammer it at angle to rotate the screw open. Use some flame / heat to get the rust burned off maybe.

I believe you can find a new bleeder screw either online or at auto part store.
 

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2003 Kia Sedona EX
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77 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
The only parts places near where I live are Autozone, O'Reilly's and NAPA. None of them carry just bleeder screws for the rear drums. I got the ones for the front, but for the rear I had to get wheel cylinders (which included the bleeders). However, I can't change out the cylinders because the drums are seized onto the hubs. Been wailing away on them with a 3 lb sledge hammer and they just won't break free.

This van has been nothing but a nightmare to me in the year and a half we've owned it. I seriously spend more time working on the damn thing than I get to drive it anywhere. For all the work I've been putting into it, I aught to be getting paid for it. Too bad no one will hire me since it's impossible to attain ASE certification... even though, I've been working on cars since I was 5 years old with my dad (that's 35 years of working on cars).

And I still haven't got to finishing up other parts that need to go on this van. Still need to do stabilizer links, that are stuck cause some idiot rounded the back nuts so can't loosen the outer ones. Wheel speed sensor for front passenger side is rusted in (hold down bolt snapped off, whole sensor won't come out of knuckle). Driver side CV axle, can't get the spindle nut off (busted breaker bar trying to loosen it, and impact won't even budge it). Still have a slew of brake lines that are rusted over, fuel lines are rusted over, probably needs shocks and struts and I'm sure it needs timing belt and drive belts. Not to mention that the rear hatch won't open because the handle broke off the rods and the passenger side rear vent window is held closed with high strength duct tape since the opener hinge (cheap plastic) is broke and the hinge that holds it to the body was replaced by last owner and they put it on crooked so the sliding door slams into the edge of that glass.

Thinking that I'm better off sending it to the junk yard already. I'll never be able to afford fixing everything it needs. And can't afford another vehicle either.
 

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2003 Kia Sedona EX
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77 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Pretty sure it's time to get rid of this thing. Replaced the brake line, bled it out. There's no visible fluid leaks, but brake pedal goes right to the floor while the engine is running. With engine off it gets pressure just fine.

There's an easily heard vacuum leak (sounds like air hissing somewhere near the master cylinder area. So not sure if it's something with the intake plenum or the brake booster is shot. I'm now tapped out and flat broke.

I can also hear a clicking or tapping sound from somewhere on the engine as it's running, sounds like probably from the bottom end. I'm thinking bad rod bearings, makes sense from the bad oil leak it had before so running on too low oil has most likely damaged it.
 

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2003 Kia Sedona EX
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77 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
So finally figured out the stupid rear drums to get my wheel cylinders replaced. You have to take off that cap in the center of the hub, remove cotter pin, take off spindle nut, remove wheel bearing, then drum pulls right off.

So now that my wheel cylinders are done, I'll be able to bleed the brakes properly. And they were starting to slightly leak, so needed to be replaced either way. Also need to do master cylinder too, it's on order and should have it in next few days.
 

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Sedona '02
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So finally figured out the stupid rear drums to get my wheel cylinders replaced. You have to take off that cap in the center of the hub, remove cotter pin, take off spindle nut, remove wheel bearing, then drum pulls right off.

So now that my wheel cylinders are done, I'll be able to bleed the brakes properly. And they were starting to slightly leak, so needed to be replaced either way. Also need to do master cylinder too, it's on order and should have it in next few days.
I am happy for you that you figured out the drum issue.
The master cylinder is pretty easy. Just take time. It's not hard but be careful with the 4 lines that go into it - don't ruin them.
And make sure to property air out the master when putting in the new one. I think there are a lot of video on YT how to do it.
 

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2003 Kia Sedona EX
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77 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Driver side rear wheel cylinder was leaking, the seals came off. Will get the master done soon, then should be all good. I've got only 2 lines that come out of the master, those go to the ABS module then 4 come out from there to each wheel.
 

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Sedona '02
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Driver side rear wheel cylinder was leaking, the seals came off. Will get the master done soon, then should be all good. I've got only 2 lines that come out of the master, those go to the ABS module then 4 come out from there to each wheel.
Oh, mine does not have an ABS. So, that's probably why you only have 2 lines from the master. I have 4 lines from the master. No matter, it's not hard to change the master. Just be slow with the lines and airing out the master while doing it.
 

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2003 Kia Sedona EX
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Discussion Starter #10
It went nice and easy! Got the old one off and could see paint stripped from the booster, so it definitely was leaking. Now with new wheel cylinders in rear drums and all, was able to bleed them nice and easy.
 

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2003 Kia Sedona EX
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Discussion Starter #11
Well, the brakes are working... however, the pedal still sinks a bit while driving. I have to pump them a few times at each stop to get more pressure. They will catch and I can put the brake pedal down and hold it and they're grabbing good and make a nice stop.
I'll most likely get new rotors as it's still got the originals from 2003 and they're not looking the best. Also it's about time for new pads. The rear shoes look to still have a good amount of material left on them.

Hopefully I don't need a new ABS hydraulic unit since those look impossible to find. Only seen 1 on Amazon for $450 and then 1 from kiapartsnow.com that's $1,200!! In that case, I'll drop the money as a down pay on a better vehicle.

I can try bleeding them again to be totally sure it's done right. Any other ideas or suggestions?
 
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