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2016 Sedona EX
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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Loose and looser. Ever since auto correct I can’t spell anymore or maybe I never knew how.
 

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2015 Sedona SX, 2019 Mercedes GLC300
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65 Posts
Dropstone, were the back shocks easy to change and did it affect the alignment?
 

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2016 Sedona EX
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27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Back shocks is maybe an hour if your slow like me and they are very easy to change. Just a few nuts and bolts. The fronts are a little more difficult. About 3 hours.

The fronts were actually HDP so I had a mixture of correct and incorrect parts or correct or incorrect dealership guidance. Either way my van is riding like a magic carpet and it was 800$ well spent. There aren’t any aftermarket yet.

BACK SHOCKS Jack up the entire back by placing the jack in between the two lower control arms next to the exhaust pipe, remove wheels, look at the strut... notice the top two fasteners and that one is a bolt and one is a nut.... notice the single bottom nut on stud .... look at your new strut... notice The top two holes for fasteners are oval and circle and when you pull the old one off, they will also be oval and circle(remember which side is which).... remove top and bottom fasteners, swap in the new shock, tighten to maybe 45ftlbs on all three, repeat the other shock, reassemble and torque your lugs to about 85ftlbs and done.


FRONTS STRUTS- jack up both sides and place jack stands at lift points under the door(nice to get the van even and level for sway bar removal), remove tires, remove both windshield wiper circle covers over the bolt,take a marker and mark across the bolt noting the positionof the wipers, remove the bolts holding wiper and remove wipers, remove the long plastic cover over engine bay that wipers were mounted in by popping about 4 plastic fasteners off the front of it and pulling it up and out like you’d pull a shelf out of a book case, look inside the compartment you found to see the 3 strut assembly top bolts but do not remove yet, remove abs sensor bolt on side of old strut, remove sway bar end link nut with ratcheting 19mm combination wrench and a vice grips on the stud, use a big breaker bar or impact to remove the two lower 22mm bolts holding the strut bottom to the knuckle and let the knuckle drop down onto something that holds up off the ground, now go back to your 3 top bolts and remove all but one, remove the last one with your ratchet in one hand and the strut assembly in the other as it willfall out of van, choose your method of spring compression(if beginner,find someone with experience or take to a shop or make sure your will is up to date and watch a YouTube on spring compressors.... I kid but they are dangerous), compress spring, remove strut top nut with an impact or ratchet with visegrips on the strut piston, STOP!!! lay your new strut next to your old and make sure they look the same.... notice the Abs bracket, notice the bracket for the two large knuckle bolts, switch out the strut taking with it the orange bumper and dust boot or bellows, make sure you seat the spring exactly how the old one was seated(if your a doodoo head like me you forgot to get new spring seats), replace the strut top bolt with whatever tools you have and torque to about 35ftlbs, release the spring tension but make sure your releasing evenly and in the correct spring seat spot,...... reassemble, start by hanging the fresh strut assembly with one bolt out of 3 on top, then hand tight only a few threads of the other two on top, get the two large bolts in place and put the nuts on only a few threads(nuts face front vehicle), get the sway bar stud back in place and put the nut, begin the tighten the top three to pretty tight or about 20ftlbs, the bottom two bolts on knuckle are probably between 100-175 so pretty freakin tight, and sway bar about 35, abs is just lightly snug. Put everything back the way it was and your done! Go get an aligment if you haven’t gotten one in a while because hey, you deserve it!(let the real mechanics decide if it’s actually necessary but I don’t think it is since shocks and struts both do not effect suspension geometry only dampening but then again you did just shuffle a bunch of parts so go get one anyways).

I don’t know the shop manual procedure or the torque values but that’s my best guess. I’m not certified in any professional mechanic way but I do have tools and the internet. Maybe others will chime in with more precise data.
 

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2016 Sedona EX
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
There was one guy in this thread that said he changes his struts and shocks every 60k regardless of leaking or not.... thanks for that advice, it’s my new policy.
 

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2016 Sedona EX
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I wanna say things loosened back up again. I’m thinking I should put some new springs on too. Just can’t believe 65k on 2016 is needing new springs already. Maybe new spring seats and upper bearing? What you guys think?
 

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2015 Sedona SX, 2019 Mercedes GLC300
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I wanna say things loosened back up again. I’m thinking I should put some new springs on too. Just can’t believe 65k on 2016 is needing new springs already. Maybe new spring seats and upper bearing? What you guys think?
I had my front dampeners done because the strut bearings were bad so those probably should have been changed previously (there is a lot of pressure on those bearings all the time). I noticed that when I was driving slow and turned left or right over a bump, I would hear a clunking/ratcheting sound indicating bad bearings. I doubt the springs need changing.
 

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2016 Sedona EX
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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
So..... good thoughts on the dampeners. I believe they call them strut insulators. Mine looked fine, maybe a little loose however I did notice something I hadn't before. There is actually some camber on the strut insulators and and arrow giving orientation to those 3 bolts. I didnt check how they came off so I may have installed them wrong and given myself some camber issues which might explain the gigglyness. Does anyone know which way the arrow was out of the factory or which way the painted top stud on the insulator is facing?
 

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2016 Sedona EX
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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
my lower control arm rear bushings look kinda split too. Those always kind of crack a little. New insulators and upper and lower spring seats on the way. Still no word on where the arrow points although I called 2 dealerships today and both gave me different answers. One said, it doesn't matter and the other said forward but that's not even an option. My factory paint marks all line up but Id sure like to know where the arrow points.
 

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2016 Sedona EX
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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Thank you so much Paul. That one was really buggin me. Yes, it seems I have reassembled correctly. While I was out there levering on stuff I found a subframe bushing had come unseated on the drivers side rear. It seems like the bushing rubber is fine but the metal case that’s pressed into the subframe isn’t seated right anymore. So I took the bracket off and hammered it back into place. Rattling fine but then came back in a few days. Checked it and it did fall out again. Not entirely sure what to do about that. I’ll have it all apart when I do lower control arm bushings so I could press a new bushing or weld the old one in place?
113288
113289
 

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2018 Sedona LX+
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Looks like you have a bolt going up from the bottom but the diagram shows that there should be a bolt coming down from the top? Either way, the bracket should be clamping down the bushing and preventing movement don't you think? I haven't looked at the part under my van but I can try to grab a pic to see what mine looks like.
 

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2016 Sedona EX
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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
From the body it goes, small rubber bumper, bushing/sub frame, bracket(holding subframe to body) bolt through all that into the body. So the subframe bounces around on the bushing and the bolt only holds the center spacer in the bushing in place. Prob is the bushing is not holding firm in the subframe so it rattles... hard... either the subframe is too big or the bushing is too small. Is there a way to search TSB’s?
 

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2018 Sedona LX+
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TSBs, not that I know of. I just grabbed a pic of my bushing and it has a bolt going up from the bottom just like yours.
 

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I think that bracket should be preventing any vertical bushing movement, yours doesn't seem like it's up enough. Because the center spacer in the bushing is vertical, it's damping side-to-side movement. Has your subframe ever been off the car for any reason? Maybe the part 62472 wasn't ever put back? Has the bracket ever taken a hit maybe that deformed it?
 

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2016 Sedona EX
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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Good questions, thanks Paul. I bought the van at 55k but I’ve never had it off. I’m gonna pull subframe down and see if all parts are present. Everything around there is clean black paint and straight metal with no signs of damage.
 

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2018 Sedona LX+
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Good luck, let me know if you need any more pics, and make sure to compare the driver to passenger side to see if you have the same spacing between all parts.
 
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