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2001 4x4 Sportage Limited
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Owners manual calls for BKR6E-11, but, is the BKR6E-N-11 a better choice?
Or is there enough difference to really matter? Everything is factory stock on this truck.
And, what's the best gap to use?
 

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BKR6E-11 V-Power (Nickel plated) is a good choice, from what I've read the " -N- " designation is for 'high compression' motor applications, but can also safely be used,

NGK BKR6EGP G-Power Spark Plug (Platinum plated) is what I am currently running in the '00 Sporty: got them at a great price, very pleased with the fuel economy and performance, currently gapped at .038" on the 2.0 Sporty motor here.

*** Check the spark plug gap on each plug -before- installing! ***

The spec'd gap for the 2.0 Sporty motor is .039" - .041", many factory-gapped plugs are shipped at either .040" or .044", so it is important to check each spark plug gap before installing..

I say "most", because depending on brand, I've seen some real Q/C issues on plug gap when shipped.. Was helping a neighbor w/ her vehicle, a sealed box-set of plugs (no, not NGK..) had gap ranges from .028" up to .044" ... Huh ???

If the plugs had been installed as-shipped, her vehicle would have had driveability and/or mis-fire issues..

--
FYI, running Sporty plugs gapped at .044" will just make the Coil Packs work harder and burn a little more fuel, at least in my experience here: gapping at the (low) range at the specified gap works better for the 2.0 motor in my Sporty here.

HTH & Regards,
GottaCruise
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm thinkin' go with what the book says. I have no idea what's in there now. I'm guessing the original set, right at 100,000. I just bought this truck a couple of weeks ago, and don't really know what the previous owner did as far as maintenance goes, didn't get any records with it. I did the timing belt, water pump, bearings last week just to be on the safe side. Next week is gonna be plugs, wires, the coil harness wires, and maybe coils and valve cover gasket as long as I'm in there. Not because it's running bad, just because. Did the oil & filter, and trans fluid and filter 2 weeks ago. I'm thinkin' I can at least get another 50,000 miles out of this rig.
Thanks for the reply.
 

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Greetings,

With all the Q/A maintenance you are doing, your Sporty should last 50,000 and well beyond that mark, was glad to read that - your maintenance regime on a used vehicle purchase is what I do also..

*The BKR6E-11 plugs will give long life in the Sporty, and can go 100,000 miles - would recommend inspecting/checking spark plug gap at 50,000 miles, re-gapping to spec will give your Sporty long life and performance.

(IIRC, wear rating is .001" per 15,000 - 20,000 miles, depending on driving habits..)

Regards,
GottaCruise
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Another question for ya concerning the coil packs. I haven't ohmed mine out yet(truck runs good) but, do ya think it's a waste of money to replace 'em as long as I'm in there? I was reading the archived threads, and ordered the coil harness as a preventative measure. I have noticed, that coil prices are all over the place. Any idea on who makes an after market unit worth buying?
 

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If the Coil Packs ohm out ok and are in good physical condition, I would not change them out.. Save the $$$..

If the plug wires are in good physical condition, -providing- you do not find any oil in the spark plug wells, I would keep them as well..

A spark plug change, and CP harness wire may be all you need to do.

*If you decide to change out plug wires, make sure you keep / transfer over the (5k) resistor in the base of the short HT Lead: that resistor -is needed- to balance the Coil pack when firing..

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I ordered the wires yesterday. Bought some shipping hang tags to mark any wires/connectors that need to be dismantled,ordered a valve cover gasket just in case. I'm trying to get my ducks in a row before I start this portion of the mini restoration. I'm waiting on the upper control arms for next weeks project.The bushings are showing some wear, but nothing loose by any means. The rest of the suspension seems to be pretty tight. I'm really surprised at how smooth the drive train is. Seems like, with these trucks, ya either got a good one, or ya didn't. I guess I got lucky this time around. Can't forget, the A/C spits out ice cubes & the cruise still works. Factory C-D still works, so I bought new speaker all the way around. I haven't totaled everything up yet, but I'm pretty sure It's gonna be real close to 3k for everything, including the purchase price of $1500.

Thanks for the help
 

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Like was said above...Check the gaps..I just got two different NGK plugs for cars (Spectras, 06 and 08) I was working on and none of them were properly gapped to .044 (for the Specs)... The different NGKs spec'd for your Sportage basically will wear at different rates and miles...If you change the lower priced ones around 40k miles they will work just fine... The more expensive ones will last beyond 100k.
Dave
 

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Another question for ya concerning the coil packs. I haven't ohmed mine out yet(truck runs good) but, do ya think it's a waste of money to replace 'em as long as I'm in there? I was reading the archived threads, and ordered the coil harness as a preventative measure. I have noticed, that coil prices are all over the place. Any idea on who makes an after market unit worth buying?
dont scratch where it doesnt itch?
 

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2001 4x4 Sportage Limited
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
What A Surprise

Well, was I ever surprised. I thought the plug wires were a complete set. Wrong. This little 4 cylinder, is like nothing else I can remember working on.
So, is this considered a Hemi motor? I'm thinking it is.
 

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There are two COP's (coil on plug) and two plug wires. The plug wires plug into each of the coils. Yes it is a strange set up indeed.
 

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There are two COP's (coil on plug) and two plug wires. The plug wires plug into each of the coils. Yes it is a strange set up indeed.
Not so strange... many modern engines run on what is known as a "Waste spark" system... reduces the ignition spark generation by 50%....
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I've only worked on SB Chevy's. Seems like this motor is half the cylinders, & twice the work. To me, it's just "different".
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
If the Coil Packs ohm out ok and are in good physical condition, I would not change them out.. Save the $$$..

If the plug wires are in good physical condition, -providing- you do not find any oil in the spark plug wells, I would keep them as well..

A spark plug change, and CP harness wire may be all you need to do.

*If you decide to change out plug wires, make sure you keep / transfer over the (5k) resistor in the base of the short HT Lead: that resistor -is needed- to balance the Coil pack when firing..

Thanks for the heads up on the resistor. Ignition will be next week. This week is upper control arms.
 

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Only the short HT leads / plugs 2 & 4..

The wires for plugs 1 & 3 do not have a resistor installed in-line: the wire provides the resistance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Only the short HT leads / plugs 2 & 4..

The wires for plugs 1 & 3 do not have a resistor installed in-line: the wire provides the resistance.
OK.Now I understand. Pretty simple setup really.
I had no oil at all in the plug wells. Bone dry. Looks like they were replaced in the not too distant past, but, I did them, along with wires and coils just because. The upper control arms were relatively easy, only trouble if I can call it that, was having to move the steering box to get the front adjuster out. The motor sounds like a Singer sewing machine. Smooth as glass, and quiet as a mouse pissin' on cotton.
 
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