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Discussion Starter #1
I happened across this on you-tube...
After watching both parts I thought it looked "familiar"
He mentions it's a 2006 with 135k miles on it...
The closing frames show a KIA "beauty" cover being re-installed...

The car is a 2006 Spectra!
Even abused it was still going with original timing belt and seldom oil changes at 135k miles!

NOTE!!!!
I do NOT recomend ignoring either the oil changes or the timing belt replacement (EVERY 60k miles).

Part 1

Part2
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I had years ago a 74 Plymouth Duster with a 225 slant6.
I ran QuakerState Super Blend...and changed the oil every 3k miles with filter.
I pulled the valve cover at 70k and it looked like your second picture.
it was a paraffin based motor oil... it was like solid lard..
I changed to Valvoline for my cars and on teardown (when I had to) there was NO sludge and minimal wear.
Dave
 

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I have run Mobil1 in my 2G Sedona since I got it at 131k miles, changing it at 3 month intervals (usually between 8k and 12k miles). When I tore down the engine at 193k miles to replace the head gaskets, the only sludge I found was at the very bottom of the oil pan. There was a lot of chocolate milk coolant-oil mixture, but I was expecting that due to the gasket failure. I didn't have to scrape anything. I strongly believe if you just keep up on regular oil changes, these engines will run forever. The head gasket doesn't surprise me, since the 60k miles I put on that van in a year and a half were all extremely hard towing/hauling/stop-go miles. I'm actually surprised that's all that has gone wrong, given the working conditions it's been subjected to.
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Nice find on the videos BTW. I wonder how many oil galleries in that engine were/are still plugged? I would have been interested to see what that oil filter looked like.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
KIA/Hyundai took a "good" reliable older engine design and over the past 10 years have made improvements in it... I have read of only 2 cases of lower bearing failures and no thrown rods,or upper cam failures... The only "common" problem with the 2.0L has been owners ignoring the timing belt replacements and then the engines get trashed. My wife and I have not put a lot of mileage on our Spectras (06-under 40k/07-under 60k) but we have had no "major" problems with them. Only one part "failure" was the EOM Champion plugs in her car. I have seen you buying higher mileage Sedonas with great luck...I hope they serve you many more miles...
I actually enjoyed looking at the insides of the 2.0L just from curiousity and the desire to know more about them.
Dave
 

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KIA/Hyundai took a "good" reliable older engine design and over the past 10 years have made improvements in it... I have read of only 2 cases of lower bearing failures and no thrown rods,or upper cam failures... The only "common" problem with the 2.0L has been owners ignoring the timing belt replacements and then the engines get trashed. My wife and I have not put a lot of mileage on our Spectras (06-under 40k/07-under 60k) but we have had no "major" problems with them. Only one part "failure" was the EOM Champion plugs in her car. I have seen you buying higher mileage Sedonas with great luck...I hope they serve you many more miles...
I actually enjoyed looking at the insides of the 2.0L just from curiousity and the desire to know more about them.
Dave
I feel confidant saying that all of the newer Hyundai/Kia engines are basically bulletproof as long as they are maintained. The 2.0 Beta engines in the 2G Spectras, 2G Sportages, and the Souls is a perfect example. Maintain it-change the oil, change the timing belt, keep coolant in it, and you will have no issues.
 

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It actually makes sense to buy the Sedonas at higher mileage. They have already depreciated to a low enough point that even adding 60k miles hardly touches the value. Beyond gasket failures (valve cover gasket and head gasket), and a transmission glitch, I feel that I've definitely gotten my money's worth out of them, more so than if I'd have purchased them new. Especially since that generous deer took care of the remainder of one of the loans.... I could probably sell either one of them without losing more than $1,500 over what I purchased them for. I'm sure I could easily get $7,500 (paid 9k) out of the EX, and probably minimum $2,000 (paid 3k) out of the LX, even with the deer damage. Losing $2,500 in value over the 90k miles I've put on between the two of them is not bad at all, IMHO.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I LIKE SALVAGE CARS... :)
Dave
 
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i heard by alot of OLD mechanic put half a quart of gas on the oil every oil change for about 3 or 4 oil changes will help get ride of sludge in the engine. i laugh everytime i hear it but is that true?
 

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I would not try it... That would thin the oil too much and because of tight tolerances in newer engines you would probably have main bearing damage from it. Not worth the chance.
Dave
 

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I wouldn't do it. Maybe if you use a thicker oil than normal, and only for a couple hundred miles, but still....
 

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i heard by alot of OLD mechanic put half a quart of gas on the oil every oil change for about 3 or 4 oil changes will help get ride of sludge in the engine. i laugh everytime i hear it but is that true?
Greetings,

* I would not mix any fuel / or fuel additive in with engine oil on a modern vehicle, too dangerous...

Haven't heard of using gasoline, but using clear highway-grade diesel fuel, and there is a specific procedure to do this - you need to follow the -exact- procedure, or you risk burning bearings in the motor.

In any case, if the engine is sludged as badly as the videos that Dave posted, even that procedure won't "magically" cure the problem - the motor needs to cleaned / oil passages & ports need to be inspected, cleaned and/or components replaced, just like the tech. did in the video.

* When we got our 1997 ford Aspire, it was badly sludged (not as bad as the motor in the video, but still a real mess), due to the former owner running it for many months with a stuck-open thermostat: it took me -days- to get the top & bottom ends cleaned up. (It would have been a $1,200+ job, just for labor hrs., if a shop did the work.)

This is some interesting info. I found when doing the rehab on the Aspire:

If the motor does not get up to normal operating temp, it will not burn off any accumulated condensation (water) in the motor: water in the oil is a primary cause for oil sludging. If the oil is further neglected / not changed, the additive pack will degrade to nothing -> then the motor is in real trouble, it will sludge up / oil will 'carbonize' quickly.

Same issue occurs on "church goer / grocery getter" vehicles: if the motor is only used a short time continuously -> never reaches normal operating temperature, the oil never has a chance to boil off any accumulated condensation, sludge forms.

Replacing a thermostat that is stuck-open, or regularly warming the vehicle up to operating temp., even if taking a short-trip ride are the best things you can do to prevent sludge from forming in the engine.. And regular oil changes w/ good quality oil, of course. :D

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Some things the video did not show that I ended up doing:

Label the cam caps, make a picture diagram when uninstalling (or take photos), and re-install in the same order. Same w/ any lifters, etc. that are removed.

After cleaning the cams / caps / lifters, I soaked everything in fresh oil that I pre-heated, overnight, before re-installing.

The Aspire has a 'real' EGR valve, that was totally plugged up, needed cleaning. The accumulated mass of sludge on the EGR ports was the consistency of 'tar', it was a mess.

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I've had good luck using Marvell Mystery Oil w/ short-interval oil & filter changes to help "clean out" a motor that has been neglected:

16oz. of Mystery Oil added to the balance of new oil / new filter change, and running for (750 / 1,000) mile interval helps to dislodge/dissolve minor sludging, and the product is mild enough not to significantly change the viscosity of the oil: I personally have found it safe to use.

Good videos Dave, those brought back some fond memories... :D

I think I'm gonna change the oil in the Aspire now. :lol:

Regards,
GottaCruise
 
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