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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I replaced my valve cover gasket on my 2001 sporty (replaced it prior to reading threads , assumed that I didn't need rtv so I did not use rtv) and it is still leaking read threads regarding rtv on camshaft points or just small bead in Valve cover gasket channel. prior to replacement plug 4 full of oil and misfire cylinder 1 and 4. replaced gasket plugs wires and 2 new coils. still ran like crap,prior to it finding out new gasket leaking still, took it to the kia dealer and of course they blamed me for rough running since i did not use genuine Kia parts. used denso tt plugs and they told me they were not the correct ones. did a diagnostic and leak down test and compression test, leakdown found valve cover gasket leaking , compression good and diagnostic misfire cyl 1 and 4 and random. funny thing is after they were done ran great( the mechanic and his boss were both amazed that it ran better and could offer no explanation). still going to replace valve cover gasket though

Questions are :

1. use ultra black rtv on valve cover channel only or both valve cover and top of head or in spots listed on tech info site? I want to do what will give me the best chance of no leaks.

2. I have been told by kia mechanics and other mechanics that there are 4 spark plug seals/boots (not including the 2 on the coils). I have done extensive search and can't find parts or info regarding 2001 sporty's requiring these. have been told that without them it will continue to leak, but can't find info, not even on the www.kiatechinfo.com . anyone have info regarding this?

3. gasket was replaced 2 weeks ago, can I clean it degrease it and replace it using black rtv to insure seal or should I replace it again. funds are tight so I'd prefer to reuse it since it is only 2 weeks old.

4. anyone use denso tt plugs in their sporty, any comments suggestions for best plugs and gap for 2001 sporty? plugs are gapped at .044 (dealer wanted me to buy their non platinum plugs for 5 bucks I can get the same ones they use at autozone etc for 2 bucks) I really would prefer platinum plugs.

Thank you in advance any help is appreciated.

Eric
 

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Hi Eric,

If the valve cover gasket has been oil-soaked, I'd recommend using a new gasket, and you will have to get that valve cover gasket channel super clean and oil-free..

Pickup a big can of chlorine-free Carb Cleaner to remove any oil residue from the gasket channel before laying the bead of RTV sealant.

-If- you are able to get the gasket oil free (wiping down w/ carb cleaner and a rag), then you could try re-using it.. But if it leaks, you will be repeating the procedure again.

*On the lower part of the gasket, just place a smal dab of RTV at each corner of the Cam caps, you don't need to cover the entire bottom surface where the gasket meets the head.

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The gap on your plugs is too wide: .044 is the (upper) limit of the spark plug gap.

Try re-gapping the plugs to .038, see if that helps.

If the Sporty ran better after service, I would be checking the pigtail lead between the coil packs and the back of the motor: any cracking on the connectors or wiring issues, I'd be replacing that lead.

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Each coil pack controls (2) cylinders, and only has leads for (2) cylinders.

One coil pack controls cylinders (1) and (4), the other coil pack controls cylinders (2) and (3).

On the short HT lead that sits directly over the spark plug, there is a -resistor- in-line between the coil pack and HT lead wire.

That resistor is to balance out the coil pack / provide firing resistance due to the lack of wire on that lead.

Make sure the resistor is present between the HT lead and coil pack, and that it measures 4.9-5.1 K Ohms resistance w/ a multimeter.

When you get everything back together, dry-fit a spark plug onto the HT lead connector & boot, make sure that all HT leads / wires fit the plug snugly and have good contact inside the boot.

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If the pigtail lead and connectors are good, the resistors are present and good, and the coil packs are new/good, then I'd check each HT lead / Spark plug boot for any signs of carbon tracing - with the boot off the spark plug, inspect the inside of the boot for any 'rings' or 'lines' running along the inner surface of the boot, that may be bleeding energy off the plug tip & wire down to ground.

If those wires were badly oil-soaked for a long period of time, consider replacing them.

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Other things you may want to check are the condition of the ground strap (wire) between the ground tray and motor, and cleaning up the battery terminals, cables, and cleaning major ground points in the engine compartment couldn't hurt either,


Best of luck w/ the repair,
GottaCruise
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the info. I did replace the coil wiring harness after the diagnostic (brittle and oil covered , original pigtail) along with exchanging the 2 week old coils for new ones, wires only 2 weeks old no oil on them, plugs were 2 weeks old looked good kept them. Not a big leak barely any oil but it is leaking.
I will try remapping plugs to . 038 and will redo gasket with new

Thanks again very helpful information
 

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It sounds like everything is pretty much new then, except the denso tt plugs - try re-gapping, but if still issues, recommend replacing w/ new NGK platinum plugs, gapped to .038 ...

The NGK plugs have the best fit (plug seat) for the 2.0 motor here, out of the (3) brands I've tried over the years (denso, bosch, ngk).

The double / quad tip plugs "seem" like a good idea, but they are factory gapped way out at .044 - about the max run limit on a (single) electrode plug..

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Good ground to the motor and frame = good firing, so would be inspecting and cleaning up those ground points.

Hope the repair goes well and is low cost,
GottaCruise
 
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