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Discussion Starter #1
hello I got a tuning box for the sedona.. I have a 2003 2.9CRDI AUTO and these are my photos and problems , queries encountered.

I paid 99 euros for a box - which I assume is a generic solution, as specialized boxes are much more expensive.

I am looking for mainly increased fuel economy and maybe the removal of the flat spot from 3800 revs to 4100 revs when accelerating hard. These boxes boast increased torque, power and BHP - although I am not sure how well an automatic gearbox will handle this as a manual will gain better fuel economy from simply changing gear less and driving in 4th when previously they may have needed 3rd for going up a hill or something like that I suppose.


the first issue I had was the deliver of bosch connectors although the correct system FCI / delphi adapters were sent on free of charge.


the engine before I have attacked it :grin:


with air intake removed the sensor is clearly visible


remove the current adapter


insert the new looms adapter


insert in the other end of the loom into the original kia delphi sensor adapter.



oh I have my first problem here the adapter seems to be too long for the original part... so I chopped off a little of the tuning box looms connector ( not sure this was actually required but I have included it as a possiblity)


second problem the kia adapter has a different guide line position on its connector the easiest thing to do is to remove this line from the bottom it took a couple of seconds with a stanely knife. :( ( a little unhappy about altering one of the cars original parts )


all plugged in :)


you can never have too much extra tape can you :)


connected the actual tuning box to the diagnostics stalk currently only with tape but I will use cable ties tomorrow


continued....
 

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Discussion Starter #2
.... continued


another similar picture I tucked the new loom above the fan and under where the
air intake box will be replaced, and taped to passing original loom.


nice and tidy under the air intake.


No engine light :)


it runs nicely I have increased torque (well it feels like it) and it seems more powerful and quicker at revving up and changing to the next gear.

I have asked for further details regarding the numbering 6,7,8,9,a,b,c,d it came between 8 and 9 and I have it between 9 and A now.. it warns you that you should not exceed C. I will update this thread as soon as I have further details regarding this numbering.

clartsonly.
 

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Nice post clartsonly :beer:

Great pre-fitment info for us still waiting for our boxes to arrive (those pics give me vertigo though :p ) +30 bhp should make quite a difference in acceleration, which is what I'm after. Too much of a struggle when overtaking at the moment for my liking.

Presumably those alphanumeric markings means these are tweakable in some way?
 

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Most excellent, Clartsonly, hat off to you, great photos, it will encourage others to give it a go themselves, _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ do you do weddings?
Seacam
 

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Discussion Starter #5
those pics give me vertigo though
I know what you mean, and I had a drink yesterday too which doesn't help.

I am assuming it has better acceleration, although I am not going to do a drag race test as my work collegue suggested to see how fast I can get to the roundabout after the lights go green. :) then disconnecting and retrying.. it came with another component which I believe must just be a pass-through to stop using the tuning box and replace it with this blank, without having to remove the loom.

I am wondering whether it is quite easy and cheap to get someone to test the power, torque and BHP too.
 

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Originally posted by clartsonly@Jul 28 2005, 08:32 AM
I am assuming it has better acceleration, although I am not going to do a drag race test as my work collegue suggested to see how fast I can get to the roundabout after the lights go green. :) then disconnecting and retrying.. it came with another component which I believe must just be a pass-through to stop using the tuning box and replace it with this blank, without having to remove the loom.

I am wondering whether it is quite easy and cheap to get someone to test the power, torque and BHP too.
Hmmm... the extra umph should be 'very' noticable, to the point that you are impressed :clap: , but you are "assuming", which is bad news for me :( .A rolling road test will probably cost more than the tuning box, so that's a no, no for me. Living in a rural area I have losts of slow moving vehicles and little overtaking opportunity, so I will be very keen to see a significant improvement from the off. If not it will be winding it's way back across the channel pronto :thumbsup:

Maybe turn the dial to "C" for a quick test?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
my work collegue noticed a difference in the smothness and power as soon as he got into it..

I don't normally have that much difficulty getting past people before you just have to time your run. and I normally drive fast all the time (85 mph through lanes) anyway. there just seems less lag.., although I couldn't stay up with a saxo VTS on accelerating onto the motorway today.. :p

I will await my email reply regarding guidance on the adjustment, I don't want to break anything the idea was to improve fuel consumption not blow a head gasket. ;) or break the timing belt
 

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I remember some years back (too many in fact :( ) when 'Air Water Injection' was the rage. A simple nozzle screwed into the inlet manifold of any petrol engine, attached to a plastic hose and water bottle. A small governing screw on top of the bottle controlled the flow of water vapour. Very crude. Promised increased output and better fuel consumption. It did make a 'bit' of difference, but... peoples engines were wearing out prematurely due to the water vapour washing the oil away from the top of the cylinders.

Totally different to what we are doing I agree, what harm can come from opening the injectors cycle a bit longer? ...but the same principle applies.

I know things have moved on somewhat, but I just hope we haven't purchased the proverbial 'bag of air'.

I'm a cheery sod today aren't I :mellow:

Agree... leave that dial until you get the all clear!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
??? lost in translation ???

my answer from profitune regarding the numbering was strange and I think he misunderstood my email / question.

I informed him that it seems smoother and seemedly has more power, due to the lack of 3800-4100 acceleration lagging, and requested what the difference is between 8.5 and 9.5, and he replied saying "there is a problem... turn it back to 6 or 7.. there is no more power or torque available with your vehicle.."


I think he misunderstood me... so this morning I turn it back to 6 and drive to work it feels watered down and lagging (like before the unit was fitted). I will do some more tests...

can someone tell me whether the rushing air air when the turbo cuts in is the waste gate release valve, as when the unit is tweaked to say A-B the air rush is less often and the car is more responsive, with the unit adjusted the car feels tighter, and I can fly up a hill past another smaller car, although MGF's still drive past me :( :p

before the unit was fitted and adjusted the car felt like it had a leak, if you know what I mean -> maybe the equivilent of when you HAD to use unleaded instead of leaded in your car - or bought tesco petrol instead of shell.
 

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I've added some product info to support clartsonly's excellent fitting guide... :clap:

Here is the 'box of tricks'... It has a 9 pin D sub type connector for the wiring loom that comes with it. This connection is open to the elements and must be taped up once fitted to the loom as appropriate (IMHO).



The opposite end of the box has a small screw with alphanumeric markings, mine came set on number 6, and this is different to what clartsonlys setting was. I can olny assume that they leave this screw 'where it landed' after assembly.


A view of the wires entering the connectors looks dubious from a water proof point of view. However they are molded in nice and tight and I personally can't see anything getting in there. However it may be prudent to tape them up all the same.



My connectors pushed home ok without cutting any bits off. This is contrary to clartsonly's experience, so maybe there is some wiring variation between models?

My first impression after having fitted this device, was that it had made an immediate difference in performance. I opted for the 'B' setting, as the rather vague instructions recommend you don't go any further than 'C'. I took a quick 20 mile round trip and noticed that the auto box was holding the gears a bit longer, and was keener to downchange when I accelerated. My overtaking speed was definitely easier to obtain with this box fitted!

The missus has taken the children to the inlaws for a visit... she knows nothing about me tweaking the vehicle, so I wait to see if she notices anything has changed, on her return :p

After further testing I will update my findings... :thumbsup:
 

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Originally posted by clartsonly@Jul 28 2005, 02:37 PM
I have already said that it seemed to have more umph when on 9.5 instead of 8.5...

bag of air.. no I don't think so - the best thing about ebay is everyone who leaves feedback does by their own will, and can write whatever they like.
I guess I've been 'had' too many times in the past... it just sticks. Now I have the goods, I can see I needen't have worried :thumbsup:
 

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Originally posted by clartsonly@Jul 29 2005, 08:58 AM
??? lost in translation ???

my answer from profitune regarding the numbering was strange and I think he misunderstood my email / question.

I informed him that it seems smoother and seemedly has more power, due to the lack of 3800-4100 acceleration lagging, and requested what the difference is between 8.5 and 9.5, and he replied saying "there is a problem... turn it back to 6 or 7.. there is no more power or torque available with your vehicle.."
I think he misunderstood me... so this morning I turn it back to 6 and drive to work it feels watered down and lagging (like before the unit was fitted). I will do some more tests...

can someone tell me whether the rushing air air when the turbo cuts in is the waste gate release valve, as when the unit is tweaked to say A-B the air rush is less often and the car is more responsive, with the unit adjusted the car feels tighter, and I can fly up a hill past another smaller car, although MGF's still drive past me :( :p

before the unit was fitted and adjusted the car felt like it had a leak, if you know what I mean -> maybe the equivilent of when you HAD to use unleaded instead of leaded in your car - or bought tesco petrol instead of shell.
You would think that they have had plenty of time to give us more info on the relevance of these markings. Is it just trial and error, to be left to the punter? Too low a setting and nothing happens, and conversely too high and something blows?

I'm trying all the settings tomorrow (yes including 'F') just for the h*ell of it. Assuming I survive to tell the tale (and I haven't been scraped off the road clutching a bag of enigine bits... :lol:), I'll let you know how I get on.

I noticed a change in turbo noise too... just haven't had enough time to play yet.

Dissapointed the missus didn't notice anything :wacko: ...but then she is not the nutter behind the wheel that I am, so maybe it's to be expected.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I drove back from margate yesterday 128 miles including breaking the speed limit ( naughty mph) at times and in traffic I brimmed the tank before I left and brimmed it when I returned. 17.5 litres. which I think is errmmmm 33.25 mpg.. the best I have ever got previously is 30 mpg.


the previous tank full I got 302 miles and used 51 litres (26 mpg) to brim the tank. although the fuel light had come on and I only put in 66 litres, and noticed the fuel gauge descending immediately... and we all know with the sedona diesels that you get about 45 miles before the needle starts moving. so I am assuming the tank was not full up. so if I add the 45 odd miles I would normally get if totally full to the distance it becomes = 31.5 which includes short journeys, again previous 25/26 mpg figure)

update from profitune..

hello again,
  what is the difference between 6 and 9 ?  what does this adjustment do?

regards
Hello , klick for klick in direction 9 is more Power and Torque.
Regards profitune

oh by the way I am running at A and a bit at the moment. it is nice to be able to put your foot down when you are already going 80 :)
 

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Nice to see evidence of a fuel saving :thumbsup:

I have spent much time fiddling with the settings, and have come to the conclusion that '9' appears to be as far up the scale that I need. I started at 'F' and worked back. At the highest settings I found things seemed jumpy, maybe getting too much throughput? 'A-B' was ok but I found no discernable difference between that setting and '9'. So that's where I stay :grin:

I must say that I'm chuffed at the extra poke I now have for little outlay, and the prospect of better mpg is the icing on the cake :banana:

I don't envisage any reliability issues with this product, beyond what you would expect from any other electrical component... so maybe Seacam, stop chaffing and get your wallet out time :p

Interesting clartsonly, that you have 1/2 increments, or maybe it's a misalignment of the dial?
 

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Originally posted by clartsonly@Aug 2 2005, 11:09 PM
I had no clicks...! ?

I just turned it with a screwdriver... does you one actually click into position...?

I will set mine to 9 too... then at least if we blow up we will know why... :p

Question: did you have to remove the bits on the new loom and existing adapter to make it fit too?
Very definite clicks on mine... and the arrow aligns perfectly with the markings too (no 1/2). It sounds like you may have a duffer? Although I'm sure there won't be a problem with the unit performing correctly, there may be cause for concern if the dial turns too easily (not engaging the ratchet mechanism), as engine vibration may move the settings over time?

Yep... good idea :grin: Although to be honest, I'm finding that I accelerate more smoothly with the box fitted than I did before (but just as quick), and am able to use the torque to avoid the box downchanging as much (and less flooring of the pedal :p ). So if anything my engine should last longer :thumbsup: Maybe this is where the fuel savings come in?

No... I didn't have to remove any bits at all. Although the bigger of the two connectors took some shoving, it went home ok.
 

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2 years on, is there an update???

Hey folks
it's a good couple of years since this thread was started and last posted in...


Are you guys still using the same boxes at the same settings?
and have you noticed any problems with the tuning module, your gearboxes or the engine over this time at all??


My current vehicle (before I pick up my Sedona in 3 days :D ) is a 55 plate Fiesta 1.6 TDCi. I have a diesel tuning module for that. I noticed a significant increase in torque and general performance and there hasn't been any problems at all.

I had no intention at all of getting a tuning module for my Sedona, because lets face it, theres a 'ell of a difference between bombing about in a Fiesta and tanking about in a Sedona :eek: LOL...

But hey, if they work and theres no problems, then I might just have to reconsider!!!


Hope you guys are still active members and spot this post!

Ta very much!
 

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hi there had one of these on my 4x4 it changes the psi of the common rail to give u more power toruqe etc. i saw vast improvements in fuel ecommy and power.just watch the high pessure pumps on them as they cost a lot and will be first to go. seen it happen cost my mate 600pounds plus fitting
 
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