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2008 Sedona, base model.
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54 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
(Note: Am I posting this question on the best forum?)

I just got a code reader and it turns up this:

P0171 "system too lean (bank 1)"

P0174 "system too lean (bank 2)"

PO741 (converter clutch problem)

B3B01 "body"

C01E0 "chassis"

U20BB "network"

How do I find out what these really mean in the context of my Kia Sedona 2008?

Thanks!
 

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2009 Kia Sedona LX
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65 Posts
I'm assuming your CEL came on, why wouldn't you take it in to the dealership since it's a 2018 and still under warranty?

System lean typically is a vacuum leak of some kind. However, there are a number of components that can throw a system lean DTC.

The P0741 is a problem in your transmission, typically the torque converter - but you probably already knew this. I honestly don't know enough about transmissions to comment any further on that.

Sometimes a DTC can prompt the ECU to throw other codes. I've personally have had this happen on a cylinder misfire code Solving the primary problem (trouble code) often clears up these ancillary trouble codes.

But your vans too new to be throwing codes (it's not like a 10yr old car with 150k miles on it). Take it back to the dealership..

(if you're wondering how long you can drive with those codes, I'm not gonna say. You really should take it in as soon as possible.)
 

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2008 Sedona, base model.
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54 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for the response. But, I don't know how I gave the impression of asking about a 2018 vehicle. It's a 2008 as stated in my profile. Yes, if it was that new I would take it to the dealer.
 

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2011 Forte SX 2.4L (thankfully MPI) A/T 144K miles
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1,371 Posts
.... But, I don't know how I gave the impression of asking about a 2018 vehicle. ....
Whenever there's a question about what I wrote, I go back and reread it.


... How do I find out what these really mean in the context of my Kia Sedona 2018?....
If you're asking what the actual problem(s) is, that would take diagnosis. It's nothing other than guesswork (and a waste of everyone's time), without hands-on testing.
 

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2008 Sedona, base model.
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54 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I am sorry to have missed that typo.

But is it unreasonable to want to know what those codes are supposed to mean?
 

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2011 Forte SX 2.4L (thankfully MPI) A/T 144K miles
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1,371 Posts
... is it unreasonable to want to know what those codes are supposed to mean?
Not unreasonable at all, in fact it's a good thing to do. However, there's lots of information available online about what codes mean, along with a list of possible causes and solutions. So it's unreasonable to expect anyone here to spend their time posting information which is easily available with just a few simple searches. And if you're thinking that the problem and solution would be the same as someone else who had the same codes/vehicle as you, be advised that it often doesn't work out that way.

Codes basically provide starting points where diagnosis should begin. But in order to diagnose, you need to be capable and willing to DIY. A typical exchange of information here would be for someone doing hands-on work on their vehicle, and who has problems and/or questions. If you're not a DIYer, then you will have to take it a shop for professional diagnosis and repair. As I wrote previously, it's all just guesswork until proper diagnosis it done.
 

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2008 Sedona, base model.
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54 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I spent a while online and what I found is that the "P" code translations are fairly available but the others apparently are not, which is why I posted a query here. I can see that KIA has apparently curtailed access, or at least free access, to technical information. That's their right as the vendor but it doesn't make a good impression.

I used to be a mechanic but I hope I have not posted any replies as patronizing and unhelpful as some here. I will look for another forum.

Thank you.
 

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2009 Kia Sedona LX
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65 Posts
Sorry aMuller, my bad. I thought I read it was a 2018. I'm getting kinda old and the eyes just aren't what they used to be.

Kia guy is right. Trouble codes are a starting point. There are a lot of things that can cause a system lean condition.

I pulled this from a website, this'll give you some idea of what you're dealing with. If you're not comfortable trouble shooting components or systems like fuel delivery, I'd recommend biting the bullet and paying a good mechanic to troubleshoot for you otherwise you can waste a lot of time and money not getting anywhere.

***********"" "" ""
"A lot of times, cleaning the MAF sensor and finding/fixing vacuum leaks fix the problem. If you're on a tight budget, start there, but that may not be the fix for certain.

So, possible solutions include:

-Clean the MAF sensor. Consult your service manual for it's location if you need help. I find it's best to take it off and spray it with electronics cleaner or brake cleaner. Make sure you are careful not to damage the MAF sensor, and make sure it's dry before reinstalling

-Inspect all vacuum and PCV hoses, replace/repair as required. Inspect all hoses and connections in the air intake system Inspect and/or test the intake manifold gaskets for leakage

-Check for a dirty fuel filter and proper fuel pressure Ideally you'll want to monitor short and long term fuel trims using an advanced scan tool

-If you have access, you may want to run a smoke test"
*************" ""
 

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2008 Sedona, base model.
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54 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
This rather frustrating board keeps telling me that "The message you have entered is too short. Please lengthen your message to at least 10 characters." so I am adding this as padding.....

Sorry aMuller, my bad. I thought I read it was a 2018. I'm getting kinda old and the eyes just aren't what they used to be.

No, it was my fault. There was a typo saying 2018 in the body of my original post.

Kia guy is right. Trouble codes are a starting point. There are a lot of things that can cause a system lean condition.

Yes, of course. But I just asked if people had a translation of those codes, and did not mean to invite a lot of rhetoric from people who didn't have answers to my question.

I do not know whether that report necessarily indicates the system is *actually* running lean, as opposed to *reporting* lean .... I will clean the MAF, and pull a spark plug to check appearance. And a new fuel filter is likely appropriate at almost 200,000 miles.

I pulled this from a website, this'll give you some idea of what you're dealing with. If you're not comfortable trouble shooting components or systems like fuel delivery, I'd recommend biting the bullet and paying a good mechanic to troubleshoot for you otherwise you can waste a lot of time and money not getting anywhere.

Thanks again.

Alan

***********"" "" ""
"A lot of times, cleaning the MAF sensor and finding/fixing vacuum leaks fix the problem. If you're on a tight budget, start there, but that may not be the fix for certain.

So, possible solutions include:

-Clean the MAF sensor. Consult your service manual for it's location if you need help. I find it's best to take it off and spray it with electronics cleaner or brake cleaner. Make sure you are careful not to damage the MAF sensor, and make sure it's dry before reinstalling

-Inspect all vacuum and PCV hoses, replace/repair as required. Inspect all hoses and connections in the air intake system Inspect and/or test the intake manifold gaskets for leakage

-Check for a dirty fuel filter and proper fuel pressure Ideally you'll want to monitor short and long term fuel trims using an advanced scan tool

-If you have access, you may want to run a smoke test"
 

·
Registered
2008 Sedona, base model.
Joined
·
54 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
This rather frustrating board keeps telling me that "The message you have entered is too short. Please lengthen your message to at least 10 characters." so I am adding this as padding.....

Sorry aMuller, my bad. I thought I read it was a 2018. I'm getting kinda old and the eyes just aren't what they used to be.

No, it was my fault. There was a typo saying 2018 in the body of my original post.

Kia guy is right. Trouble codes are a starting point. There are a lot of things that can cause a system lean condition.

Yes, of course. But I just asked if people had a translation of those codes, and did not mean to invite a lot of rhetoric from people who didn't have answers to my question.

I do not know whether that report necessarily indicates the system is *actually* running lean, as opposed to *reporting* lean .... I will clean the MAF, and pull a spark plug to check appearance. And a new fuel filter is likely appropriate at almost 200,000 miles.

I pulled this from a website, this'll give you some idea of what you're dealing with. If you're not comfortable trouble shooting components or systems like fuel delivery, I'd recommend biting the bullet and paying a good mechanic to troubleshoot for you otherwise you can waste a lot of time and money not getting anywhere.

Thanks again.

Alan

***********"" "" ""
"A lot of times, cleaning the MAF sensor and finding/fixing vacuum leaks fix the problem. If you're on a tight budget, start there, but that may not be the fix for certain.

So, possible solutions include:

-Clean the MAF sensor. Consult your service manual for it's location if you need help. I find it's best to take it off and spray it with electronics cleaner or brake cleaner. Make sure you are careful not to damage the MAF sensor, and make sure it's dry before reinstalling

-Inspect all vacuum and PCV hoses, replace/repair as required. Inspect all hoses and connections in the air intake system Inspect and/or test the intake manifold gaskets for leakage

-Check for a dirty fuel filter and proper fuel pressure Ideally you'll want to monitor short and long term fuel trims using an advanced scan tool

-If you have access, you may want to run a smoke test"
 

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Registered
2009 Kia Sedona LX
Joined
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65 Posts
Before you throw money into a new fuel filter you could have it pressure tested, or you could as you say, put in a new filter. It is kind of a pain in the ass in my opinion, though.

Do you have a obd2 reader? If so, you can confirm if you're running lean by looking at your fuel trims. In a perfect world your fuel trims should be 0.0 and anything positive means a lean condition exists and anything negative means a rich condition exists. The ECU doesn't throw a lean code until you get above something like 20, I think. A way to test if you have a vacuum leak is to hook up your scanner and monitor your long term fuel trims on the highway. Reset the CEL to see if it recurrs. When you're on the highway your throttle body is wide open so a vacuum leak is negligible. If you're long term fuel trim gets back to normal around zero or close to it, than you know it's a vacuum leak. If however your long term stays high then your problem is most likely not a vacuum leak and something in the fuel delivery system like an injector, or fuel pressure regulator or your evap solenoid.
 

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2009 Kia Sedona LX
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65 Posts
I had a buddy who had a vacuum leak that he just couldn't find. So, he went and bought a couple rolls of that self sealing, high temp silicone wrap and all new worm drive clamps. All total maybe $25 bucks off Amazon. He cleaned off every vacuum line then wrapped them and put new clamps on. He never found out which hose was giving him the problem but his vacuum leak went away.

It made me a believer in that wrap and I went out and bought a roll and threw it in the trunk just in case ya know.
 
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