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2003 Kia Sedona EX
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Discussion Starter #1
This is my rear passenger side tire, any clue what is cause of this wear/damage?

I do know for a fact that it is the incorrect tire size (previous owner put wrong size on all 4). And I can see all (front and rear) bushings and stabilizer links have dry rotted bushings.

I do not know the age or condition of shocks and struts, maybe time to replace?

Thanks

114673
 

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09 kia spectra ex,04 Neon,04 Chry. T&C, 08 Pontiac G6 gt
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YUP on all things you posted. Dry rot bushings will affect rear alignment the same as for fronts. and for model year are probably original shocks/struts...Time for the "works"!
 

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2019 Kia Sportage. SX with AWD. 2.0L Direct Injected Turbocharged & Intercooled Gas.
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17 year old vehicle. My guess 150+K miles? She's been rode hard and put away wet too many times. Perhaps donation to charity for a tax write-off?
 

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09 kia spectra ex,04 Neon,04 Chry. T&C, 08 Pontiac G6 gt
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17 year old vehicle. My guess 150+K miles? She's been rode hard and put away wet too many times. Perhaps donation to charity for a tax write-off?
NAH...Not just yet on that. I'm not sure where in the US the OP is, but if the body and undersides are in good shape and interior is still nice. And most importantly (other than the common VC gasket leak), that the motor/trans are running well. IMO do the suspension work and get new tires. I'd doubt that he could find another vehicle to "fit the bill" for same money involved.
But yes, I agree that the previous owner was not too so very kind in caring for this car.
 
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Sedona '02
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This is my rear passenger side tire, any clue what is cause of this wear/damage?

I do know for a fact that it is the incorrect tire size (previous owner put wrong size on all 4). And I can see all (front and rear) bushings and stabilizer links have dry rotted bushings.

I do not know the age or condition of shocks and struts, maybe time to replace?

Thanks

View attachment 114673
FYI
The struts are not complicated to do. Just need elbow grease.

However, the front sway bar bushings are bit of pain to do. You have to raise the front and go underneath the car - not impossible, just in odd angles.
 

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2003 Kia Sedona EX
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Discussion Starter #6
I'm in northern Illinois, body has a few small rust spots (no problem to fix before it's too late), underneath has a good deal of rust but still holding strong. VC gaskets definitely need to be replaced, along with oil filter and fresh new oil. Currently have 145,300 miles on the odometer. Engine was replaced back in 2013 (according to Carfax service records, done at a Kia dealer in Wisconsin). I'm assuming the timing belt went out on original engine.

I'm currently putting in a new CV axle on driver side to match the other one I did about 2 months ago. And doing new inner and outer tie rods and lower control arms since ball joints are badly worn.
Will take to shop soon for all new tires of proper size and to repair exhaust pipe that broke off just passed the y-pipe.

I got 2 codes on scan for p0128 and p0431. May need a new thermostat, but going to diagnose before just replacing everything. The 431 code may be due to the open exhaust system, or maybe a bad cat (which has also been replaced a few times according to service records).
 

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I'm in northern Illinois, body has a few small rust spots (no problem to fix before it's too late), underneath has a good deal of rust but still holding strong. VC gaskets definitely need to be replaced, along with oil filter and fresh new oil. Currently have 145,300 miles on the odometer. Engine was replaced back in 2013 (according to Carfax service records, done at a Kia dealer in Wisconsin). I'm assuming the timing belt went out on original engine.

I'm currently putting in a new CV axle on driver side to match the other one I did about 2 months ago. And doing new inner and outer tie rods and lower control arms since ball joints are badly worn.
Will take to shop soon for all new tires of proper size and to repair exhaust pipe that broke off just passed the y-pipe.

I got 2 codes on scan for p0128 and p0431. May need a new thermostat, but going to diagnose before just replacing everything. The 431 code may be due to the open exhaust system, or maybe a bad cat (which has also been replaced a few times according to service records).
Highly highly recommend replace all engine mounts and transmission mounts. It will make the car drive like almost new in ride quality. I kid you not.

Also, VC gasket is a must for the back one (close to firewall), the brittle gasket will leak oil down to the exhaust pipe and make burnt fumes come up from the engine bay.

One of the item that may go bad is the IAC (idle air control) attached to the throttle body. That things - they don't sell it by itself on rockauto or Kia. You have to buy the whole throttle body which is absolutely highway robbery.

However, they do sell the IAC for Sorento V6 (just look up 2003 to 2006 - same one) by itself. It's the same one as Sedona!! It's a lot cheaper than buy the whole throttle body.

Trust me, it will go bad. And you will experience the car stalling at a stop sign or traffic light, whenever you put foot on the brake, it will stall.

Also, check the pair of coolant pipes along passenger side underbody that moves coolant to the rear heater. That will rust and the hanger point and leak coolant. You will overheat.

I replaced all the metal portions with coolant hose and no more leaks and a lot cheaper. the setup is that it has parts in hose and long portions in metal. you take off the metal pipes and replace that part with all hoses. no rust.

Also, if you get EVAP code (gas fume leak thing) suspect holes in your gas filler pipe. I had two small rusted holes in the gas filler pipe (right under the gas filler portion - I believe the constant filling of gas and if overflows, it rusts out the pipe) - I had to take it off, put on the gas cap and pour water from the other end to check if it was leaking - and it was leaking. It was the last part that i check (of all the items to get to it, took me 6 months). Had to check, purge valve, canister, valve on canister, gas tank valves, even dropped the gas tank - and none had issues. Even tried making home made smoke machine to test all the pipes from the engine bay to the canister and no issues. It was the damn holes in the gas filler pipe.
 

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2003 Kia Sedona EX
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Discussion Starter #8
I'll definitely check out all those you listed, thanks for the tip!

This weekend I'll be doing driver side cv axle and lower control arms, inner and outer tie rods on both sides. Anything I need to know about doing the inner tie rods? I've got a tie rod remover tool as well as 1/2" breaker bar, impact wrench and a cheater pipe if need be. Local shop said doing inner tie rods may also require removing/replacing pinion gear?

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I'll definitely check out all those you listed, thanks for the tip!

This weekend I'll be doing driver side cv axle and lower control arms, inner and outer tie rods on both sides. Anything I need to know about doing the inner tie rods? I've got a tie rod remover tool as well as 1/2" breaker bar, impact wrench and a cheater pipe if need be. Local shop said doing inner tie rods may also require removing/replacing pinion gear?
I never did inner tie rod. Only did outer tie rod. However, I believe the inners are pretty typical standard fair. I don't think the inner tie rod is torqued absolutely tight like the big lower control arm bolts.

I did have to change outer tie rods on both sides, though. They are easy to do.

One thing about these vans is that there is what's called tension rod which is connected diagonally from the front radiator support frame to the lower control arm; it's a big round pipe thing. It is bolted solidly to the control arm with two bolts. However, it is connected to the frame in front by a bolt but has theses big washers and bushing.

My van, when making a right turn onto an inclined curbed driveway, makes a clanking sound. I thought that it was something to do with either the sway bar bushing or the tie rod or the control arm.

All of them are changed but it still makes that small clanking noise. So, I think it's due to the worn bushing on that tension rod; bushing is sandwiched between big washers. Now, you can only get these bushings from Kia dealer or Kia part online stores. Don't know if i will change them out or not.
 

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2003 Kia Sedona EX
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Discussion Starter #10
I see how it's going to be a pain doing bushings on sway bar.
Looks like the locking nut wasn't tightened on my passenger side tie rod last time it was done, could have caused things to get out of whack.
Driver side cv axle, grease came out onto frame and tranny. Going to check for anything thatcould have caused damage when taking it out and putting in the new one. Also going to de-grease and clean up the whole atea under there. Passenger side doesn't look as rusty, probably due to that whole side being coated in oil from leaking valve cover gaskets.


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Discussion Starter #11
Highly highly recommend replace all engine mounts and transmission mounts. It will make the car drive like almost new in ride quality. I kid you not.
I'll have to see about recruiting a friend or 2 if I need to replace them. But here's what I see at least for upper engine mount on right side.
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I'll have to see about recruiting a friend or 2 if I need to replace them. But here's what I see at least for upper engine mount on right side.
The driver side, passenger side and front mounts are easy. You just have to remove some stuff. You need a jack with wood block (so don't crush the oil pan) to slightly lift the engine ( or the transmission side) so you can unbolt the mounts.

The back mount (by firewall) is a bit of a tough one. The horizontal bolt, you can do it from underneath or from through the driver side wheel well with long extensions.

The vertical ones - you have to do it through behind the engine (firewall) with a long 1/2 extensions from the top side. I did it that way. (I would put a long plywood to sit on). I put my foot on the top of plenum and put a knee on top of strut mount. A plywood would have been easier. Don't want to put a foot on something and break (i.e. MAP sensor connector - very sensitive).

The problem with underneath is you don't get a good leverage cause you are laying down. But, it's doable.

YOU NEED TO USE 1/2 extensions and breaker bars. DO NOT USE 3/8. They will break. How do I Know? Because I broke my 3/8 extensions.

Do the first three (front, right and left) first because you don't have to remove the tire or go underneath.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I never did inner tie rod. Only did outer tie rod. However, I believe the inners are pretty typical standard fair. I don't think the inner tie rod is torqued absolutely tight like the big lower control arm bolts.

I did have to change outer tie rods on both sides, though. They are easy to do.
Guess I have the one vehicle that's not easy then. Stupid outer is stuck and won't come off. Used PB Blaster and got it nice and hot with torch, still won't budge.

We (me and another big guy) tried to even take it all out as a unit and it won't budge from rack either. Guess it's in there with rex thread locker. Plus 17 years old and never been serviced in that area all this time. All ball joints are worn out and free rotate.
 

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Guess I have the one vehicle that's not easy then. Stupid outer is stuck and won't come off. Used PB Blaster and got it nice and hot with torch, still won't budge.

We (me and another big guy) tried to even take it all out as a unit and it won't budge from rack either. Guess it's in there with rex thread locker. Plus 17 years old and never been serviced in that area all this time. All ball joints are worn out and free rotate.
Just an idea. Never tried. Using a grinder, can you put a long groove along longitudinally along the outer tie rod so that the metal is weakened? Then use a big chisel to wack along the grove so it breaks? This is same idea as when you use grinder to cut the old outer race to wack it off the wheel hub when you are doing a wheel bearing change.

You will have to be very careful not to grind off the thread on the inner tie rod by mistake. It might be hard to do this since it will be hard to judge the depth of the metal down to the thread.

Or, use oxygen torch maybe? get it really hot?

Otherwise, I would try to take it out as one unit. The thread into the rack is about inch or less. It's shorter than the inner tie rod thread into the outer tie rod. I think if you really use a some kind of leverage, you can take it off.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
No access to oxy torch or grinder. Using map gas torch though. Will try with more leverage.
And no loss to me on either part since both inners and both outers are being replaced.
 

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No access to oxy torch or grinder. Using map gas torch though. Will try with more leverage.
And no loss to me on either part since both inners and both outers are being replaced.
Just a few thoughts.

I think Sedona is a decent van. From my experience (we don't use it often these days), the engine and transmission are pretty solid if you take care of them. So, it's worth investing some parts to keep it going.

We once didn't realize that the engine oil was down to 1/4 of capacity (it was leaking oil via valve cover gasket on right bank (near firewall since fixed). It was winter and I got lazy checking the oil. When I checked it one day, I was horrified. Quickly bought several quarts of oil and put them in; I knew if oil goes down and your main bearings go your engine is a toast.

Luckily, the engine is still going. This was three winters ago. I don't hear any rod knocks (I often put a long screw driver on the oil pan and listen to the engine) and just hear normal machine noise. Amazing.

extra note: I also found out recently, the intake manifold has these butterfly things that route the air in different length. There is this solenoid on it (at left corner near firewall when looking from front). There are two connectors that actuate it, one big one and one slim one toward the back. I took the slim one off. Apparently, those butterflies open and close at from to idle to high RPM. They didn't put lock tights on it or something and these small screws that hold them fall off and go into the cylinders and ruin the engine. I read that they don't make a whole lot of difference and putting the butterflies at one position will prevent the screws falling off. Look into this. Sorento has the similar setup.

Transmission wise, this car went through some rough treatment; it was suffering form misfire for a long time until I realized that one of the coil was bad and replaced it. It used to do this rough stutter at high speed and was kind of concerning. It may have been rough on the tranny as you can imagine. I didn't fix it for a whole year. I thought it was something wrong with the input speed sensor on top. changing it didn't fix it.

Also, I didn't realize you had to change the transmission oil once a while. Once I realized, it was like 50k miles before the change (not flush). The van has very small slipping now (175k miles). I drive it very gently and it still goes fine.
(I did change some sensors on top of the transmission and also the neutral park gear thing on top). I learned everything on fixing cars on this car. before this, I had no idea.

People may not realize, but this was the first mini van Kia sold in the US and they really did put some good parts in it (they didn't want to f&ck this up). Our original front wheel bearings lasted 130k. If you know, the cars they export to the US are slightly different from their domestic cars (definitely better quality).

Long story short, at this mileage we don't use it as a daily but to keep it as an extra vehicle to move stuff, yeah, I think it's worth fixing it. It still rides nice even though it feels kinda old.

Changing all suspensions including shocks and engine mounts really brought back the smooth ride after.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Finally got it, took a bit more time holding the torch on it amd a couple bigger pipe wrenches. Now to finish up the whole job.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Passenger side is done. Tomorrow get the drivers side done (tie rods, control arm and cv axle) and do alignment. Inner tie rods came out very easily with breaker bar and a "cheater" to crank it.
I've also shot a short (11 seconds) video showing how bad the ball joints of tie rods were. Not sure if I can post that here or not.

All in all, this is an easy job. Rust makes it tough, but it can be done rather easily. Just need breaker bar, good socket wrench set, tie rod remover (for inners) and a little common sense. Of course a jack and stands.

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