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02 Sedona 80k 500SL 34k 300SE 161k 300E
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Discussion Starter #1
So I'm going to tackle the timing belt kit on my 2002, van runs great and has been worry free for years now, the previous owner had it done at 60K in 2008, van now at 97K in 2020, they just had the belt replaced not waterpump or anything else.
I figure I better do it soon due to age, doing research on the kit, I'm thinking of DAYCO kit wp323k1cs, searching online price is all over the map, cheapest I found is at ROCKAUTO for $214 highest was $396.
I'm planning on buying the tool to locks cam gears so timing won't move on me, my biggest worry from my research is the crank pulley , getting bolt loose, some contraptions and ways are unusual to say the least, one guy shows how he put a breaker bar socket and did the crank the engine to loosen the nut/bolt , scares the crap out of me lol, I could just see something going wrong.
Is there a good step by step procedure for this job?
Here's a picture of the kit, anything missing? what else do I need other than coolant.

116289
 

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2003 Kia Sedona EX
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I need to do the same on my '03, I'll also be doing the thermostat at the same time and possibly the rear heater hoses to replace the metal pipes that are rusting over.
I'm not sure how soon I'll get to mine though, almost winter and starting to get too cold for working outside. But I'll definitely let you know if I find any other tips to help it go smoothly.
 

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02 Sedona 80k 500SL 34k 300SE 161k 300E
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110 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I have a few months to do the job, not looking forward to it lol, I'm going to replace all spark plugs at the same time so I can make sure #1 piston is at TDC, it should be at the top of the stroke, what I do on my cars when dealing with timing is put a straight piece of wire down the spark plug hole and turn the crank till marks line up and verify that wire moves up as piston #1 is at the very top of stroke, works with my Benz , will see with the KIA, only want to do this job once!
 

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02 Sedona 80k 500SL 34k 300SE 161k 300E
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110 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I also thought of this, I got a code once a few years back for crank position sensor, being located down there I will put a new one in for peace of mind ,I'm 67 and don't feel like crawling around under there more than I have to,
 

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Sedona '02
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I also thought of this, I got a code once a few years back for crank position sensor, being located down there I will put a new one in for peace of mind ,I'm 67 and don't feel like crawling around under there more than I have to,
I bought the Aisin kit at rockauto. It's has the OEM parts.

Putting a breaker bar on the crank bolt and blipping the ignition is a valid method. You just have to do it like less than a 1/4 second. I used it to loosen the bolt. Make sure to remove drive belts before doing this. Or use a big impact gun. Or, a long breaker bar - but then you need a pulley holding tool so that crank pulley does not rotate when trying to break the bolt.

Just spray some penetrating oil on the bolt to make it easier. And make sure to pull the fuse on the fuel pump. You are basically using the starter to breaking the bolt loose. Once done, remove negative terminal from battery before doing the work.

If you don't want the cams to move too much, take out the spark plugs so there is no compression. Even if they move, I think they only move about 45 to 90 degree max in my experience. They usually try to flip backward (and only the back cam tries to move, the front one does not usually). Cams moving a little is okay. You just rotate it back a little.

I put several zip ties on the cams (there are two cams on each bank) so that they hold each other. It was fine. Just zip tie like crazy everywhere, and you will be okay. Get a bunch of long zip ties at Harbor freight. They are cheap.

Make sure to put white marks on the cams so you know where they are. There are notches on the cams.

TDC comes every 2 turns of the crank. So, the crank has to turn twice (2 x 360 degree) to get TDC again. Remember this.

Get a small mirror - you need this to see the mark on the right side cam (firewall) because space there is really tight.

Get those small clips (black with orange tips) at Harbor Freight. Cheap. They are really handy to hold the belt when putting it on. Better than those big paper clips.

Make sure to replace Crank Sensor when doing this. You have to take off the Crank Pulley to replace it if it goes bad. And it will go bad with high mileage. Cam sensor is really easy.

They say you should get a new Crank bolt when doing this. I did buy a new bolt from a dealer. But, I am not sure if it's worth the trouble.

I will tell you, the hardest part is putting the the tensioner pulley. It's a pain because you have to rotate the pulley while pushing on the timing belt to right and trying to tighten the center bolt to torque. You may actually need another person there helping. Belt is really tough and does not give. And because the pulley gets pushed against the belt by rotating counter clockwise, it's a really annoying way to do it. You need a really strong Snap Ring pliers or something.

The pulley has these two holes where you put either very pointy pliers (tips needs to be like 45 degree bent or 90 degree so you have leverage), the tips have to be very pointy since holes are small. Put the two points to the two holes and rotate the pulley - this motions pushes against the belt. And while doing that, you need to tighten the center bolt on the pulley.

I had to do this twice to make it tight enough against the belt. You can torque the pulley bolt to spec once you tighten it somewhat so it does not move. But, tightening while rotating is the issue. I think if you modify those long reach needle nose pliers from Harbor Freight and modify the tips can work because you get a good leverage. Maybe I should have done that. I bought these small Mitsubish pulley tool from Amazon and it kept flipping off so it was a nightmare. The engine is a Mitsubishi design.

You definitely need either a good snap ring pliers or a modified needle nose pliers. Just grind the tips to be more pointy and narrower.

After that, putting on the hydraulic tensioner is easy. You just put it on, bolt it to spec and pull the grenade pin. Then, rotate the crank a few times while checking the marks on the cams and crank to make sure they are all in time.

I also highly recommend you replace the crank seal, if you can. It's not that hard.

Edit: Aisin is the OEM part maker for both Toyota and Kia. They even make the transmissions for Toyota. They make good parts.
 

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2019 Kia Sportage. SX with AWD. 2.0L Direct Injected Turbocharged & Intercooled Gas.
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Excellent write up!
Very well done!
 
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