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2002 Kia Sporty 4x4
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Timing belt change and tuneup. * UPDATED *

Dropped the oil - ugh. Recovered ~4.5 quarts, but the oil was black and had a cheap Firestone filter that left the gasket on the engine. So I'll be changing that again in a month, and adding some motor honey to the mix. Gave it some 5w-30 Maxlife and a PureOne filter for the moment. Since it's a month I'm not too worried about the 5w

Brake parts (new everything) and plugs/wires (Denso/NGK) are on the way and should be here over the next couple of days, just need a dry day. Maybe Saturday will do.

Grabbed the copy of the service manual that's posted here on the forums (thank you UpYourKia). Now have an 1/4" torque wrench from HF for $20 for when I pull the manifold off. Is it the usual bi-metal gasket on top or is it a disposable? I think I'll need to do the valve cover gasket judging by the oil on the sides of the engine. I found this link about the spark plug change out somewhere here on the forums. Does anyone have anything to add to that? AAP has the Felpro valve cover gasket in-stock if I need it. While I'm in there, I figure I should change the thermostat, but there are 2 temps :unsure: 180° and 195°. Suggestions? Cincinnati, OH is where I'm at.

Timing belt check - There's a record of it 2.5 years ago at ~65k per Kia, but only the belt, not the pulleys. Looking at it it I can see some very fine cracks nothing deep, passes the 5 per inch rule, gears line up where and when they should. The fact that the mileage is short bothers me though with the cracks. The other belts do not pass the 5 per inch rule so they will be done when I do the timing belt. Is it a good idea to do this kit from Partsgeek? It's belt, pulleys, water pump, gaskets.

Given the rain and ice, I haven't had the chance to investigate the locks or the blower motor yet, but I did take advantage of the 4x4 for my ice covered street the other day. Sun visor - Local pull and pays wanted ~$50 + entry fee for used , Kia wanted $53 for brand new. Kia got my money and made me a new key and a nice Kia keychain for $25 from the VIN since mine was slightly bent and worn smooth. Kia also let me know that my Sporty has keyless and offered me a remote for $125 programmed:eek:. Apparently they haven't heard of Google, and that's now on the way for $40. Grabbed this cup holder from AAP for $6 and shoved it between the armrest and the passenger seat since I usually ride solo. That will work until I decide to order the factory one , or the better half complains enough when riding that she'll want it replaced asap.

So that's my next few off days. Helpful input and suggestions are always welcome.
 

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Cerato S Hatch Auto
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Dropped the oil - ugh. Recovered ~4.5 quarts, but the oil was black and had a cheap Firestone filter that left the gasket on the engine. So I'll be changing that again in a month, and adding some motor honey to the mix. Gave it some 5W-30 Maxlife and a PureOne filter for the moment. Since it's a month I'm not too worried about the 5W.
I guess you're using the latest oil change as a "flush". -Not a bad idea, as it seems that the motor hasn't been well maintained. Is it blowing oil? If not, why the Motor Honey?

Probably 5W-30 by itself would be OK. Genuine KIA filter is supposed to be best.
 

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2002 Kia Sporty 4x4
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Discussion Starter #3
You're correct, Give it a month and change the oil as a flush. 5w-30 is what I planned on using but I think it's specd at 10w-30. aMotor honey - Always used it a couple times to treat a mis-treated engine, but I'm fixing to replace all the gaskets anyways right?
 

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I thought that those sort of products were mainly as a temporary fix for smoky engines. For your climate either 5W-30 or 10W-30 would be OK.

5W-30 in Winter and 10W-30 in Summer if you want to be obsessive!
 

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2002 Kia Sporty 4x4
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Discussion Starter #5
I thought that those sort of products were mainly as a temporary fix for smoky engines. For your climate either 5W-30 or 10W-30 would be OK.

5W-30 in Winter and 10W-30 in Summer if you want to be obsessive!
'Cuda, you might be right. My family believed in dropping it in any engine when you got it, and that there was nothing better than Champion plugs and STP products. Again since I'll most likely be changing out the valve gasket I prob don't need to waste the money. I'm not leaking any major oil, have noticed a tiny drop here and there under the oil plug. That's being replaced on the upcoming oil change. I have always been happy with the performance of a PureOne filter in our other cars, and usually reclaim clean oil from from them.

Thanks for the responses back on this and my other thread. I had expected others would chime in as well. Any advice on the thermostat temp, or input on the tune up guide I found on 4x4wire? I'm also seeing that people recommend a .038 (~1mm)gap rather than the .044(~1.1mm) gap.
 

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2002 Kia Sporty 4x4
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Discussion Starter #6
from my introduction thread

That's good news on the marks lining up - knowing that the Sporty has been maintained properly.

re: Timing belt kit, that's an excellent price for the complete kit, last full TB service I used Gates belt & Kia OEM water pump and pulleys, ran about 2x the cost of that kit.

re: Throttle body -> Intake gasket, yes it is the metal gasket, and reusable.

The spark plug writeup you linked to by Axe_Man is very complete, if doing valve cover gasket would just reiterate the importance of taking the time and getting that valve cover gasket channel super clean, and using a thin bead of RTV black in the channel before inserting the gasket: and a dab of RTV at each corner of the cam caps, per the recommended install procedure, to prevent leaks.

re: Spark plugs, running NGK platinum plugs gapped at .038, which seems to be best gap for the 2.0 motor here.
Thanks GottaCruise!
 

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You're welcome, glad to help.

--
re: thermostat - on the later model year 1st gen Sportys a (dual-stage) thermostat is employed, from what I've read this is to 'pre-heat' the motor when coming up to temp., in order to reduce thermal shock to the motor,

Given above, when I replaced the T-Stat as part of the electric fan conversion, I opted for the (185) degree thermostat: our Sporty motors run a bit hotter than the average motor (geared for torque vs. speed), this was strictly a personal preference, and not a requirement, per se..

Have been running the lower temp. T-Stat for a few years now with no ill effects, you can notice a difference w/ the internal heater during -very cold- New England winter days, if I had to give a pass. cabin heat output rating, the 195 degree T-Stat would be a (10), w/ the 185 degree T-Stat it's about a (9)..

But the 185 degree T-Stat plays better w/ the SPAL electric fan setup here (thermostat & controller) during the summer months, it affords a wider range of fan control to be programmed - so for my purposes, it's worth it.

With the (185) degree T-Stat, during summer months I set the SPAL fan controller to start at (192) degrees on low, (205) on high..

Engine temp. maintains at range of (182-187) degrees during normal driving, depending on outside ambient air temp. (The SPAL controller automatically ramps up fan speed as temp increases from (low) to (high) (full) setting.)

IIRC, I picked up the lower temp. T-Stat at AutoZone, STANT brand.

Hope the above helps in your T-Stat decision,

Regards,
GottaCruise
 

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2002 Kia Sporty 4x4
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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I got the 195° since it's the OE spec, and got the failsafe one that defaults open if it goes bad. Better to have an always open thermo instead of an always closed. Had a $20 rewards cert from AZ so walked out after gaskets for free. Can't beat that.
 

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2002 Kia Sporty 4x4
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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Timing belt and cooling system flush done. What didn't make sense was the mix of belts I took off. Kia, Dayco, AZ, and AAP brands, each belt from a different place. KIA says they did the timing belt o this car 2 years ago.
The blind bolts and nuts on fans and pulleys are the worst thing about this job. Naturally gave the WP and thermostat a change while I was in there, and flushed out the radiator and engine block with distilled water and and some spare any color I had lying around. Many thanks to the folks on this forum for their posts about this, and to Uncle Rice over on youtube since his videos pointed out a couple blind bolts I was missing. I do enjoy his view on timing belt repair...

When it was time to put the actual belt on, a sharpie was my best friend, got it aligned on the second try after marking the belt. Knew which belts went where as well since I marked them with a sharpie before I took them off. This confused the heck out of the guy at Advance Auto Parts. Am I the only person in the world that keeps a metallic sharpie in the tool box for marking stuff?

Oh FYI - Advance will MATCH online pricing after shipping for same brand. Took a printout from partsgeek.com for the dayco timing kit @$53 and AAP matched it from their $112 price with no problem, got their ToughOne waterpump, with a lifetime warranty for $60, supported my local businesses, and paid $10 extra for the privilege of instant, same day delivery.

No blood fee paid on this set of repairs, front brakes are half done, need to get an impact screwdriver from HF to remove those blasted, rusted, and cursed retainer screws on the rotors and then get the rears pulled and changed out as well.
 
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