Kia Forum banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Got an 08 reading p0441 and p2422 codes. I'm fairly certain it is the evap canister vent solenoid valve due to the p2422 code. Can anyone tell me if this is correct?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
The manual refers to 2422 as the vent solenoid valve for the canister. I thought there was a different code for the purge valve. I also have the same problem and replaced the vent solenoid. Also replaced the air filter going to the vent solenoid.

So do you think replacing the purge valve will do it? Can you test it by taking it out and cycling with 12 volts?
 

·
Registered
10 Optima LX, 07 Rondo EX, 89 Chevy C1500
Joined
·
1,411 Posts
If you re getting a P0441, just put a purge solenoid first. It is only thing that can cause that code, other than someone removing and bypassing it, which I've never seen and would be stupid because it would cause even more problems. Fix that first and then move on to the P2422 if it returns.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Thanks. I will try that. I already replaced the canister close valve. No joy. Then took it to the dealer, they said I needed a new canister air filter. Replaced that. The old filter was kind of dirty, but there was no resistance to air flow.

Today, took the wire harness off the purge valve. Checked the resistance; about 16 ohms, so the solenoid wire is probably good. The purge valve is attached to a metal plate with two bolts to the top of the intake manifold; not easy to get to.

I pulled the hose off the purge valve and attached a long hose to the bottom of it. Engine off, the purge valve does not appear to be closed. I can pull air through the valve, that is I am not getting a full suction. Should the purge valve be fully closed when not powered? IF so, I think it is stuck partially open
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
repaired purge valve

Thanks again. That is what I suspected. Pulled the purge valve off, ran some break cleaner through the valve. I also cycled the valve on a 12 volt battery.
When I first cycled the valve, it had a high pitched click, confirming the solenoid was moving. After running some break cleaner through, with some grey fluid out, and then once again cycling the solenoid, it now closes with more of a 'thud' than a 'click' Now upon retesting, with the valve closed, I cannot pull air through it. So, at least for now, maybe it is fixed.

I imagine I will at some point need to just replace the valve, my fix may not be permanent. However, if it the MIL stays cleared after a drive cycle or two I am back in business
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top