Hello everyone, this is my 1st post and I'm looking to see if anyone has had throttle body issues with their 2011 Sorento.. Basically what is happening is that when I start it, it stalls a few seconds later and cuts off. This has been going on for months now and it's starting to get worst as beforehand it would eventually stay started if I revved up the acceleration pedal a few times but now that has stopped working and I'm ending up having to let the car sit for hours/days before it stays started. I've had a few mechanics check it and even had the throttle body replaced but no luck. After while I took it to the dealer to see if they could find out the problem and let me know what it is but all they did was tell me the codes I already knew on it and proceed to tell me for about $2000 they could fix it. Basically defeating the purpose of even taking it to them at all as I was trying to avoid that hefty price to fix it, I just wanted to know what was wrong so I could get my neighborhood mechanic to do the work for a cheaper price. Has anyone had or heard of this issue before and does anyone know what I can do to get the issue fixed as it's causing me to miss work??? Can anyone help please?? All replies are appreciated!!

Best find yourself a qualified competent mechanic, because that one has already cost you a throttle body.

Why not tell us the error codes?

What did Kia tell you that they needed to do for that $2000 - they must have told you!!!!

 

I was looking for the paper earlier with the codes and their diagnostics they did but can't find them. I will look again after work and post them. I do remember it being a misfire problem and a second code for the computer system and the dealer said it needed replaced. Honestly that can be handled later I just need my car to start when I need to go somewhere. I will post the codes later tomorrow though.

 

I was looking for the paper earlier with the codes and their diagnostics they did but can't find them. I will look again after work and post them. I do remember it being a misfire problem and a second code for the computer system and the dealer said it needed replaced. Honestly that can be handled later I just need my car to start when I need to go somewhere. I will post the codes later tomorrow though.

If it needs a new computer system, it's not going to start until then.

You said that you intended using the dealership diagnostics to have your mechanic carry out the work - best you find a qualified mechanic that can do both the diagnostics and repair.

 

... I've had a few mechanics check it and even had the throttle body replaced but no luck. ....

A 'few' mechanics ?????!!!!! It's really sad to read stuff like this. I'm not saying I would be able to diagnose and fix the problem with your vehicle, but what's up with these so-called professionals? Spark or fuel, and then continue on which ever path has the problem. Just a useless rant from someone who thankfully doesn't have to deal with this $hit.

Just wondering how your vehicle runs, once it gets past the initial stalling and stays running? Any problems at all once it's warmed-up? Has the MPG dropped a lot since the problem began happening? Also which engine does your Sorento have?

Unfortunately for you, it comes down to what Ron said - keep trying until you find someone who knows what they're doing.

 

Before getting into a discussion of the codes, I'll ask you what the mileage on this vehicle is. I assume it must have been purchased less than 8 years ago, and if the mileage is under 80K miles, the computer (ECM) is covered under the federal emissions law, and would be replaced at no cost to you.

However, if the mileage is over 80K, then we can give you a couple of possibilities that would be FAR less costly than $2K. But in order for us to help, you will need to post which engine is installed in your vehicle.

 

Before getting into a discussion of the codes, I'll ask you what the mileage on this vehicle is. I assume it must have been purchased less than 8 years ago, and if the mileage is under 80K miles, the computer (ECM) is covered under the federal emissions law, and would be replaced at no cost to you.

However, if the mileage is over 80K, then we can give you a couple of possibilities that would be
FAR less costly than $2K. But in order for us to help, you will need to post which engine is installed in your vehicle.

It has the 4 cylinder in it and it just hit over 80k a few months ago.

 

Hey all, The codes shown on posted print out are P0605 and P2105. Not sure of date this was done and how long ago, may be totally different trouble now. I don't have the experience for this model, but could this be a case of that infamous module on the back side of the inside fuse panel, or am I thinking of the Sedona???

 

Hey all, The codes shown on posted print out are P0605 and P2105. Not sure of date this was done and how long ago, may be totally different trouble now. I don't have the experience for this model, but could this be a case of that infamous module on the back side of the inside fuse panel, or am I thinking of the Sedona???

I need new reading glasses.

P0605 Internal Control Module Read Only Memory (ROM) Error

P2105 Throttle Actuator Control System - Forced ...

I guess that explains why the tech suggested replacement of those parts.

 

This of course will not be a done deal until your vehicle is up and running, but hopefully this is the right path to getting it back on the road. It bothers the hell out of me to read about people paying staggering amounts of $$ when there are other, much lower alternatives available, so I'm always glad to help someone avoid getting their wallet cleaned out. Tell your mechanic to pass along any questions or problems on the computer replacement, and hopefully someone here can help him out.

 

Thank you and will do! Quick question though, should I be concerned with the mileage on the used ones as some are higher than my car and some show nothing? Also when I called around my local salvage places they ask if it's one of 2 types which I didn't understand?

 

I appreciate all of you guys help! I did find a used ECM at a local shop for around $130 and had it put in yesterday. The car is starting fine with no stalling at all now. But it is making some extra noise when starting it. Is that common and is it because of it not being reprogrammed?? Also how long should I drive it in order for the ECM to be reset or to work properly?? Lol basically I need the steps of TO Do' s as I just picked it up and don't want anymore issues. I'm over this lol. Thanks again for all feedback and help!!

 

.... But it is making some extra noise when starting it. ...

Can you provide more detail about this noise? Is it a metallic sound, or some other type? Do you hear the noise only until the engine fires up, or does it hang around even after it's been running a while? I can't think of any reason why replacing the ECM would cause a new noise, but also can't say it's impossible either.

If your vehicle is functioning well (other than the noise), and there is no check engine light, then it would appear that the ECM is working properly. However, you need to keep in mind that you will not be able to pass the state inspection testing, because the vin and mileage stored in the replacement ECM are incorrect. So you will need to pay to have a Kia dealership reprogram the ECM, prior to having an inspection/emissions test. Try to get that done a number of weeks before the test, because it will take a number of drive cycles before all of the systems reach the 'ready' state required to allow testing to proceed.

 

I have an appt at the dealer for early next week for the reprogramming as well. Though I didn't know I didn't have to get it right away. My inspection isn't up until June.

 

I recommend that you don't do the reprogramming right away. As I mentioned in an earlier post, the ECM might have been corrupted by some type of electrical back feed from your vehicle, which could be a result of melted/rodent-chewed wiring or a DIYer making a mistake on an electrical mod.

I'm not saying that's definitely the case, but if it is then the replacement ECM might get damaged the same way as the original one. Since your vehicle seems to be doing ok with the new ECM, it probably doesn't need to be reprogrammed for any reason other than the emissions testing. So there should be no reason you can't wait until May to have it reprogrammed. That way, if it gets back fed again before May, at least you won't have wasted $$ on the reprogramming. If nothing bad has happened by May, then it becomes more likely it won't ever happen.

AFA a 'tune-up' goes, it should consist of no more than new spark plugs and engine air filter. If it doesn't improve after replacing those things, then it moves on to troubleshooting. And of course you need to have oil changes done according to the schedule in your owners manual, along with the recommended maintenance for the other fluids as well.

It would be helpful if you could try to pinpoint exactly where the noise is coming from. If your backyard mechanic is familiar with starting and running briefly with the serpentine belt removed, that can be very helpful in possibly eliminating a number of noise-making candidates.