Joined
·
20 Posts
Hi. I'm new here and new to KIA. Helping my ex-spouse diagnose and repair (if not too difficult of a problem) her 2016 3.3L Sorento, 88,000 miles. She's had it for a year. It just started having these problems.
The SUV engine is running fine. It starts fast, idles smooth, has good pick-up, and doesn't have any codes or warning lights.
When started and idled it doesn't seem to overheat with just idling. I've timed it for 35 minutes with some revving to 4,000 RPM for short periods during the test.
However, when it's then driven (after the idle test) at 45mph or faster for 20+ minutes it will begin to overheat and will not cool down unless turned off and rested. Then it quickly heats up again after resting for 20 minutes.
This is what I've observed and/or done:
1. No coolant in oil (oil filler cap or dipstick).
2. No oil in coolant (anywhere).
3. Removed thermostat (I thought it might be stuck...did not open much in boiling water).
4. Verified both hoses are good and not collapsing when hot.
5. Replaced radiator cap (old one looked fine).
6. Bubbles are being pushed into the overflow bottle when it gets really hot.
7. When I turn the heat on high it will blow hot and cold, on and off. I assume that has to do with the coolant being low in the system.
8. The bubbles being forced into the bottle seems to keep it from pulling coolant from the bottle when the radiator is low and needs the overflow coolant.
9. I noticed just under the front-most head on the driver's side I see coolant percolating around one of the little inset round indentions when the temperature gauge is showing 3/4 to hot or more.
10. The radiator/coolant system holds pressure at 17psi for 15 minutes.
11. I used a combustion test kit and no gases seems to be infiltrating the radiator.
12. It loses about 2-3 quarts as it's operated for the rest drive time (30-45 minutes).
## Questions:
1. Are there freeze plugs on the driver side of the front-most head? I'm curious if a freeze plug in the head could be leaking causing this.
2. Why aren't any codes being thrown or dash lights coming on?
3. If the head gasket is leaking could it do so only to the external part of the engine, thus causing only a coolant loss and shortage, resulting in the overheating and bubbling into the overflow bottle?
4. Do you agree the heater will blow on and off hot air because it's not getting water flow as the coolant gets low? Or possibly an air pocket trapped?
5. Where are the temperature sensors on the coolant or engine? Would they be reading correctly regardless of coolant level? I'm wondering if when the coolant is 2-3 qts low if it's causing faulty / eradic temperature gauge readings.
6. What is the process to clear air pockets and bleed this SUV?
Thank you so much! Any help you can suggest I'll consider.
The SUV engine is running fine. It starts fast, idles smooth, has good pick-up, and doesn't have any codes or warning lights.
When started and idled it doesn't seem to overheat with just idling. I've timed it for 35 minutes with some revving to 4,000 RPM for short periods during the test.
However, when it's then driven (after the idle test) at 45mph or faster for 20+ minutes it will begin to overheat and will not cool down unless turned off and rested. Then it quickly heats up again after resting for 20 minutes.
This is what I've observed and/or done:
1. No coolant in oil (oil filler cap or dipstick).
2. No oil in coolant (anywhere).
3. Removed thermostat (I thought it might be stuck...did not open much in boiling water).
4. Verified both hoses are good and not collapsing when hot.
5. Replaced radiator cap (old one looked fine).
6. Bubbles are being pushed into the overflow bottle when it gets really hot.
7. When I turn the heat on high it will blow hot and cold, on and off. I assume that has to do with the coolant being low in the system.
8. The bubbles being forced into the bottle seems to keep it from pulling coolant from the bottle when the radiator is low and needs the overflow coolant.
9. I noticed just under the front-most head on the driver's side I see coolant percolating around one of the little inset round indentions when the temperature gauge is showing 3/4 to hot or more.
10. The radiator/coolant system holds pressure at 17psi for 15 minutes.
11. I used a combustion test kit and no gases seems to be infiltrating the radiator.
12. It loses about 2-3 quarts as it's operated for the rest drive time (30-45 minutes).
## Questions:
1. Are there freeze plugs on the driver side of the front-most head? I'm curious if a freeze plug in the head could be leaking causing this.
2. Why aren't any codes being thrown or dash lights coming on?
3. If the head gasket is leaking could it do so only to the external part of the engine, thus causing only a coolant loss and shortage, resulting in the overheating and bubbling into the overflow bottle?
4. Do you agree the heater will blow on and off hot air because it's not getting water flow as the coolant gets low? Or possibly an air pocket trapped?
5. Where are the temperature sensors on the coolant or engine? Would they be reading correctly regardless of coolant level? I'm wondering if when the coolant is 2-3 qts low if it's causing faulty / eradic temperature gauge readings.
6. What is the process to clear air pockets and bleed this SUV?
Thank you so much! Any help you can suggest I'll consider.