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04 Kia Amanti, 05 Kia Amanti, 10 Hyundai Genesis, 99 & 88 Suburban, 01 ES300, 91 E150, 89 S10 Blazer
201 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
This is the cross reference of the part numbers for the lower front ball joints. All but one have nylon lock nuts, not castle nuts and pins. If they are not loose, they do not need to be replaced. If one is loose, replace them both with identical units. I like the heavy ones, but it increases your unsprung weight.

Hyundai, KIA front lower ball joints with Nylock nuts

#5176038000, 517603F000, 5176138A00

Original Equipment will be stamped with H or KIA oval on the bottom, circle tip mount is bare steel, with no visible boot retaining ring.

Febest 5176038000 the one with the castle nut. 27oz

CTR ball joints (verified) are sold as:

MOOG K80621 (CTR)

CTR W0133-1625556

McQuay-Norris FA2280

Detroit Axle K80621

ACDelco 45D2351

Beck Arnley 101-5125 Ball Joint 12oz weight

CTR has a black painted circle tip mount with CTR on the bottom

All these part numbers cross reference for the lower ball joint.

Interchange Part Numbers:

45D2351, 10480621, 101-5125, 610.51007, TC1235, IK80621, IK90374, BJ60125, FA2251, FA2280, K80621, K90374, 5051333, 5051351, 104317, K90374, TK80621, TK90374

DURALAST 10480621

TRW W0133-1625556, stamped TRW on the bottom

Mevotech Supreme MK80621 Suspension Ball Joint

Has a blue cover and MS in an oval stamped on the bottom.

Centric 610.51007 diamond shape, Straight lines on sides, rotory numbers on the bottom

Delphi TC1235 Suspension Ball Joint has visible boot retainer rings, bare steel 24oz

Front upper eccentric ball joints provide adjustable camber and castor

Moog K7452

Mevotech MK7452 Ball Joint

Mevotech GK7452 Ball Joint

Driveworks DW-K7452 Ball Joint

Evan Fisher EVA108061218103 (appears identical to DW for $10 on Amazon)

04 Kia Amanti, 05 Kia Amanti, 10 Hyundai Genesis, 99 & 88 Suburban, 01 ES300, 91 E150, 89 S10 Blazer
201 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
How to replace the Amanti front lower ball joints in 90 minutes.
1. Choose, then acquire a pair of your favorite ball joints from my previous post. Save and open the Service Manual attachment.
2. Inspect this website to determine the cost of their parts and labor:
If you don't have the tools or the time, make an appointment with the mobile mechanic, advising him that you have procured your favorite parts. If you have the skills and the time, proceed to the next step.
3. Accumulate your tools. Buy a pack of 8 mil Nitrile gloves from your favorite store. Always wear gloves when working on dirty things.
Air tools are not required, but they make the job move quickly. Home shops often have a 90 psi air compressor, an air hose with quick connects and a 1/2 drive impact driver.
A. An electric 1/2 impact is a good substitute if you do not already have access to the compressor and air tools.
B. 1/2 drive lug nut socket
C. 3 ton floor jack D. Aluminum, bottle,or scissors jack E. 1/2 drive torque wrench or breaker bar
F. Two jack stands
G.One 10” 4x4 wooden block
H. One 8” 2 x 4 wooden block
I. 1/2 drive 17mm (11/16) deep socket
J. 1/2 drive 22mm (7/8) standard socket
K. 33mm U-shaped pitman arm puller
L. 17mm open end wrench to tighten the puller bolt

1 Park the car on level ground. Engage the parking brake.
2 Loosen the lug nuts on the two front wheels with the torque wrench or breaker bar before lifting front of vehicle.
3 Jack up car from the front center with 3 ton roller jack with 2x4 block as a spacer between the frame and the jack puck. This will reduce the damage to the undercoating and sub-frame. Place jack stands under the body box frame rails. Slowly lower jack until the rails are supported by the stands. Both the stands and the jack are now supporting the weight of the front of the car.
4 Remove the lug nuts with the impact driver from one wheel, toss the lug nuts into a convenient container or cardboard box and then set the wheel away from your work space.
5. From under the hub, loosen the 7/8 in ball joint nut and the two 17mm head retaining bolts with the breaker bar. Remove the ball joint nut first, then the retainers, throw them in the box. The hub is now mobile.
6. Raise the hub by placing the wooden block between the caliper and the small jack, and then pump it up.
The ball joint will stay with the control arm, but there will now be enough room to force the pitman arm puller around the arm base at a 45 degree angle to the hub. Snug, then tighten the bolt on the puller until the joint stem pops loose from the arm. If it seems impossible, pound on the arm or the bolt on the tool with a 12 oz. hammer. It will pop loose due to the vibration of the hammer's impact. YMMV, but it worked for me.
7. Once it is loose, open your new joint, and swap the old one out with the new one.
8. Replace the 17mm bolts to the knuckle first, no need to tighten them now, then slowly lower the small jack and guide the joint pin through the arm tip, and spin on the new nut.
Now the small jack has done its job, and the impact wrench can tighten all three fasteners. Before we put the wheel back on, we torque the three fasteners, based on the specification diagram that Hyundai has provided in the attachment.
9. Put the wheel back on and use the impact to snug them up.
10-18. Now go to the other side of the car and do the exact same procedure. It will be quicker this time.
19. Jack the frame back up, remove the stands and slowly lower the car to the ground. Remove the jack.
20. Tighten the lug nuts with the torque wrench to the proper specification.
21. Put the tools away, set the air pressure in the tires, and drive the car to check for any irregularities
22. Count the money you saved by doing it yourself.
23. Post a nice thank you note for the service manual and the step by step procedures.


2019 Kia Sportage. SX with AWD. 2.0L Direct Injected Turbocharged & Intercooled Gas.
934 Posts
Wow! Thanks for the great information and blow by blow details!
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