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Discussion Starter #1
In a previous post, having to replace a cracked plug or two on the SX's 2.0t did not seem unusual. I assume :huh: they are platinum.

Are the plugs on the 2.0t easy to get at ?

What plug brands and type are best to replace the originals with ?
 

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I am not sure what specific plug they are, I do know they are irridium. Getting to them is super easy. Just pull the plastic cover off the top of the engine, there should be 4 coil packs visible right on the top of the engine ,each one is held by a bolt. remove the coil packs and R&R plugs one at a time as not to confuse the coils. Be sure to use compressed air to blow any debris out of the plug area to prevent any dirt from falling into the cylinder when you pull each plug.
 

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They may as well be Denso 3501, pull one out for make and p/n.
Denso plugs are good, there may not be NGK equivalent for your plugs.
Don't over tighten them or you can strip threads and crack the plug too.
 

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Also, do it on a cold engine.
The thing is, if you pull a plug and see a missing piece of ceramic on the tip, the problem arises of what has it done to the cylinder as it rattled around in there? You would be fortunate if it got blown out of the cylinder through the exhaust valve.
 

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Also, do it on a cold engine.
The thing is, if you pull a plug and see a missing piece of ceramic on the tip, the problem arises of what has it done to the cylinder as it rattled around in there? You would be fortunate if it got blown out of the cylinder through the exhaust valve.
There is no good scenario, going out the exhaust means direct impact to turbocharger vanes. That generally means time for a new turbo. If it gets past that, then it hits the Catalytic converter matrix. That's bad also.
 

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Discussion Starter #8

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Since the plugs are going into an aluminum head, you may want to run the engine to operating temp after the new install and then go back and re-torque the plugs (same principle as installing lug nuts on aluminum wheels). The steel plug base reacts differently to increases in temp than does the aluminum head and they may relax after being heated the first time.
 

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I don't want to use premium.....
$0.50 USD more a gallon...
I'm going to figure out which plugs & keep a few....
Also, I'll learn how to change them.....
I don't want to get stuck 250 miles from my destination again....
 

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Would it be wise to replace the stock plugs with a colder or hotter operating temperature range plug to prevent cracking?
I not sure which heat range to go to solve the issue.

It might be a good idea to keep an extra set of plugs in the car so you don't get stuck again.
I learned that from my 2-stroke dirt bike riding days. Pushing a motorcycle through the woods is no fun especially when someone cues up the banjos.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Denso is what cracked in mine
It would be helpful to all of us who are interested in the plug problem if everyone who has had this problem could let us know what brand plug they had fail.
Ask the dealer which brand they removed. It could start to show a pattern.

Sloppy said his cracked plug was a "Denso"
Some one suggested a heat range change on the plugs used, but you need to know the the brand and plug number to start that search.
 

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It would be helpful to all of us who are interested in the plug problem if everyone who has had this problem could let us know what brand plug they had fail.
Ask the dealer which brand they removed. It could start to show a pattern.

Sloppy said his cracked plug was a "Denso"
Some one suggested a heat range change on the plugs used, but you need to know the the brand and plug number to start that search.
I don't know that changing the heat range without being sure of the results is a good idea. On the optima SX models a few years back Kia did in fact change the heat range to resolve some issues, but I am not positive if they went from a 7 to a 6, or from a 6 to a 7, and if it is even relevant to our sportage engine since it's been retuned and a lot has changed.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
My wife & I are heading across country to AZ near the end of August.
I will take a set of plugs with me just in case. Not sure which brand yet, Denso 3501 or Bosch 9622 (consensus still out on this forum).

I would appreciate any details you "mechanical wizards" have on socket sizes needed and any torque values needed for the plugs and coil pack bolts. Any info on R&R plugs would be greatly appreciated.

I have 1400 miles on it now (new 6/26/2017) and I plan to change my oil & filter in a few weeks at aprox. 2000+ miles before we leave. Mobil1 10-30 synthetic.
 

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I've been using Mobil Exxon & Shell 87 & didn't have a problem since.....
No ping, no plug problems in 10K miles.
From NY to SC... 6 or 7 round trips....
 

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My wife & I are heading across country to AZ near the end of August.
I will take a set of plugs with me just in case. Not sure which brand yet, Denso 3501 or Bosch 9622 (consensus still out on this forum).

I would appreciate any details you "mechanical wizards" have on socket sizes needed and any torque values needed for the plugs and coil pack bolts. Any info on R&R plugs would be greatly appreciated.

I have 1400 miles on it now (new 6/26/2017) and I plan to change my oil & filter in a few weeks at aprox. 2000+ miles before we leave. Mobil1 10-30 synthetic.
kia recommends 5w-20 or 5w-30. no real advantage going to heavier oil in modern engines.
 

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It is essential to use the 5W or 0W (cold viscosity) to facilitate pressurizing the tensioner, the 20/30 (hot viscosity) is specified for fuel rating (M/G).

... Philip
 

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now the better question to ask, why did Kia exclude the very best oils, which are generally group IV and group V synthetics which commonly come in a 0W-40 weight?
 
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