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Discussion Starter #1
My 2017 has a little over 35,000 miles on it, and I'm about due for another oil change.
I've gone just over 6,000 on the current oil.
Maybe its nothing, but I have had to add about 1/2 a quart of oil twice during this 6000 mile run.
I don't know if the winter cold season has anything to do with it.
Can't say I never added a little oil between changes before, but never this much.

Do you think I should be concerned ? :confused: Do any of you find you have to add some oil between changes ? :confused:
 

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mine uses no oil between changes at the same interval as you. Before panicking , what exact brand and weight of oil have you been using? regular or synthetic?
 

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IMHO, you should be using 0w-30, 5w-30 or 0w-40 oil in that engine and change it every 4K miles at the most.
Oil consumption is not normal, also check PCV.
 

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Using synthetic now but at first on whatever oil the dealer was using and up to the current time, no oil consumption that can be measured on the stick. 23,000 mi. I change at 4000 to 5000 depending on how it looks. Its a little dark this time so I'll go 4000 which will probably be in March or April. Always have used 5W-30.
I don't think there's been a time I left the driveway in the car that I didn't stomp it at some point in the trip (after full operating temp) so I really don't baby it.
I use Mid-Grade gas (89/90) with Startron stabilizer/cleaner with every fill.
1 quart of oil in 6000 miles will not raise a red flag with the dealer. In the old days they wouldn't do anything under warranty unless it was using more than 1 qt/1000 mi. With me, it would be a big deal. I have not owned a vehicle since the '70s that used oil and had to have some added between changes. This corresponds with the moment I realized that my insistence on using 20W-50 racing oil in a regular car was destroying my engines. After that I have never wavered from the recommended viscosity/type.

If you have been using a heavier oil it might not be too late to go back to 5W-30.

Otherwise, there is the possibility of a leak. Do you have any oiliness anywhere around the engine? Any oil spots where it sits? I have heard of the oil lines to the turbo coming loose and leaking. Check out the oil filter area and see if its been leaking. Look at the drain plug area.
 

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This corresponds with the moment I realized that my insistence on using 20W-50 racing oil in a regular car was destroying my engines. After that I have never wavered from the recommended viscosity/type.

If you have been using a heavier oil it might not be too late to go back to 5W-30.
I would add one caveat to what you said here. There is usually a chart of allowable oil weights based on what the engine needs, and what temperature range you will be operating it in.

5W-30 is not the end all oil weight. If you never run the car in freezing temperatures, one could make the case that 10W-30 will be just fine in this application. 10W-30 has a proven track record of not shearing it's viscosity grade down as much as 5W-30 during the 5,000 or 6,000 mile drain interval. This usually applies to the folks using regular conventional oil, synthetics will have different profiles.
 

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That's true enough as far as it goes, but you don't play with the upper number which is where the trouble lies. As for me, I stick with the recommendation. It has worked perfectly for me in a number of vehicles since I wised up. The more you learn about the smaller, more powerful, dual overhead cam, multi-valve engines the more you encounter the advice to not exceed the maximum viscosity recommendation. I was reading an article in the Ford magazine twenty years ago about failures in these tight-tolerance engines from owners using a heavier oil than specified. I guess people just cannot shake the idea that a heavier oil has to be better.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
mine uses no oil between changes at the same interval as you. Before panicking , what exact brand and weight of oil have you been using? regular or synthetic?
Using synthetic Pennzoil 5w-30 Platinum
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Otherwise, there is the possibility of a leak. Do you have any oiliness anywhere around the engine? Any oil spots where it sits? I have heard of the oil lines to the turbo coming loose and leaking. Check out the oil filter area and see if its been leaking. Look at the drain plug area.[/QUOTE]

I saw no leaks anywhere, all around under the hood from the top, saw no leak underneath by the engine pan cover or when looking through the oil filter cover and oil drain cover openings.
 

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I would keep an eye on the consumption, adding as needed to keep it topped off. Unfortunately, the amount of usage you are observing is not deemed abnormal, but does warrant keeping a close eye on the levels. Also, watch for situations where you may observe any smoke emitting from the tailpipe. That can clue you in on what the problem may be. ie: smoke at startup is a classic valve stem seal issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
IMHO, you should be using 0w-30, 5w-30 or 0w-40 oil in that engine and change it every 4K miles at the most.
Oil consumption is not normal, also check PCV.
Is the PCV valve easy to see, find, access ?
 

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IMHO, you should be using 0w-30, 5w-30 or 0w-40 oil in that engine and change it every 4K miles at the most.
Oil consumption is not normal, also check PCV.
With today's oils and the tolerances on modern engines, there is absolutely no reason to change your oil at lower intervals than recommended by the manufacturer. This is especially true if you use synthetic. This was not the case a decade or two ago, but is definitely true today. Some synthetics will even go 15-20k miles. I did test my oil at 6900 miles, and it was fine and had at least 20% more life. Changing it more often is just not necessary and increases maintenance costs. I now use a full synthetic in all of my cars and my safety margin is huge. If it weren't for the 10 year warranty and the need to prove maintenance to Kia in case of an engine failure, I'd do it every 10k miles....
 

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One more point on engine oil. With a new car, you NEVER want to go with an oil heavier than recommended!!! This is because manufacturing today is done by computer and robots and tolerances are much tighter than in the past. Using a heavier oil than recommended can injure your engine as it places more stress on the lubricated parts. You're just asking for trouble if you do it....
 

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One more point on engine oil. With a new car, you NEVER want to go with an oil heavier than recommended!!! This is because manufacturing today is done by computer and robots and tolerances are much tighter than in the past. Using a heavier oil than recommended can injure your engine as it places more stress on the lubricated parts. You're just asking for trouble if you do it....
The engine is designed to run on up to and including 20w-50 oil, that's what Kia approved for countries with hot climate.
 

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The engine is designed to run on up to and including 20w-50 oil, that's what Kia approved for countries with hot climate.
That does not mean it is the recommended grade and is best for the engine. Here's what the MANUAL says about what's best....

"For better fuel economy, it is recommended to use the engine oil of a viscosity grade SAE 5W-30 (ACEA A5). However, if the engine oil is not available in your country, select the proper engine oil using the engine oil viscosity chart."

If you live in the U.S., Canada, or Europe, you should be using 5W-30 EVEN IF YOU LIVE IN A HOT CLIMATE... By the way, I live in Vegas.... The only reason you should put a heavier grade in your car is that only sub-standard oil is available to you. Over time, using a heavier weight oil, no matter what climate you live in, will put more stress on the engine and wear it down faster. It can even cause oil clogs in small passages if you have some cooler days.

Here's what Valvoline says:

"Using a heavier grade than recommended may cause decrease in fuel economy, higher engine loads and eventually shortened engine life."

Thicker oil does not give you better protection. In fact, in newer engines, it gives you less protection....

So are you arguing for using 20w-50 in your car? Good luck....
 

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I never said or recommended 20w-50 but that the grade is approved to use.

The engine in OP's SX will live longer when using 5w-30 or 0w-40 or 5w-40 thou depending on climate and OCI intervals. Turbo engine is very hard on oil in both shearing and fuel delusion.
A5 oils are designed with better fuel economy in mind, not engine longevity and all cars in NA come with manuals recommending oils for better gas mileage as mandated by CAFE, not what's best for the engine.
 

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not to throw a monkey wrench in the oil viscosity argument, but I have seen very good cases for why car makers are insisting on lower weight oils in a bid to solely increase fuel economy over protection from wear and tear on engines.

I know at the surface that sounds silly, if it gets better mileage then it must be due to lower friction, but they claim there is more to it than that. A case can be made that friction from a thicker lubricant film is better protection from wear over a thinner film.

That being said, I agree that a 20w-50 is probably not a good choice in either of the sportage engines used in north america.
 

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My point was that fresh oil and oil after 3-4K miles are different oils and people tend to run long OCIs now so starting with 5w-30 you will get a much thinner oil half way thru OCI with worse lubing qualities. High compression ratio, GDI and turbo engines degrade oil qualities faster than naturally aspirated engines.
 

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My point was that fresh oil and oil after 3-4K miles are different oils and people tend to run long OCIs now so starting with 5w-30 you will get a much thinner oil half way thru OCI with worse lubing qualities. High compression ratio, GDI and turbo engines degrade oil qualities faster than naturally aspirated engines.
If fresh oil is better, then why not change it every 500 miles????? What I'm saying is that lubing qualities of modern oils are sufficient far beyond what is recommended by Kia. Additives wear down faster than lubing qualities, and many tests have shown adequate additive reserves with manufacturer recommendations. In the old days, I would have agreed with you. But that changed over the last decade or so. In any case, oils actually get thicker over time because of exposure to contaminants. Again, there is no need to change your oil at less than recommended by the manufacturer. Doing so only wastes money and time and provides no benefit.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
I changed my oil yesterday (went 6,000 since the last change) put in my usual 5w-30 Pennzoil Platinum syn.
After a full warm up & ride I checked the oil level , front of SX in the garage, let it sit to drain 5 minutes, the level was right to the full mark dot on the stick.
I'm going to watch the oil more carefully for a while, by always checking it after driving/warm up, putting it in the garage in the same position, letting it drain about 5 minutes.
That should give me a accurate assessment of any oil loss.

PS: there were no signs of any oil leakage anywhere around the engine under the hood or from underneath by filter or drain plug.
 
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