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There are Alpine Supercharger kits that were available in the US for Spectras and Optimas, but the guy from Alpine has bailed and ran off to Africa leaving lots of people with no money and a product that he won't beck up. If your looking for any forced induction for a Spectra or an Optima/Magentis I suggest you speak with Bill at KFX.com and see if he can get you something from Korea directly.
 

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Or you could read, read, read, and then put your own kit together. That's what I plan on doing since I have read mixed reviews from some of the guys on the other forums in regards to the trial and error that most have gone through. It's just easier for me to do it myself and then have it tuned at a shop. RioTuner.....how much boost are you running and what are your numbers? I plan on using the new Garrett GT25BB turbo and the Tigerlilly pistons instead of the compression gasket. What did you do about the MAF if your engine was so equipt? I can't remember if you put it before or after the BOV. I'm going to do all the install myself and then take it somewhere. What engine management did you use too. I'm thinking of using the e-manage ultimate piggyback since it has the most features. I am planning on using the AFC-neo as well. Also what injectors did you use. There isn't much discussion in this forum on this topic so maybe we should start some. I know there are plenty of people who are looking for forced induction who own our KIAs. Definately read the book Maximum Boost written by Kenny Bell so that you have some knowledge of all the working parts and what everything does before you get into this stuff. The more educated you are the less likely you are to get taken advantage of when it comes to purchasing the parts needed.
 

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I was gonna buy a turbo kit from KFX are they not that great or something? i was alittle iffy about it considering im in the US and they are in canada should i also jsut build my own? (2001 kia sephia 1.8)
 

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Get a copy of Maximum Boost written by Corky Bell. This is the boosted bible. Everything you need to know about how to figure out all the stuff you need to know. Then start figuring out what you what as an end result and then buy parts. Too often people just go out and buy stuff and don't have any idea what they are going to do with the stuff they buy and end up getting the wrong stuff. Most turbos are application specific. It might be a good idea to go to Hyundai Forum : Hyundai Performance Forums and check out all the forced induction threads on that forum. I think they even have a digital copy of that book on there you can download and read at your leisure. No sense in spending money you don't have to when you are spending money on something that could potentially blow the engine up in your car.
 

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Wow... As always Forced Induction threads go to hell..

1st - KFX is an American company based out of Texas, they also have a branch in Vancouver BC.

2nd - Maximum boost is great to understand how a turbocharger system works and operates, but is by no means a bible for turbo setups.. As Mr. Bells opinions are very biased towwards products he likes to use, such as that BEGi piece of junk rising rate fuel pressure regulator.

3rd - You can use a piggy back system all you want, I wouldn't recommend it. Call me biased as well, but you should be using a Standalone engine managment or at the very minimum have your original ECM hacked and reprogrammed.. I have seen way too many problems with turbo cars and piggybacks.. Emanage or not..

4th - This touches base back on #2, There is a whole lot more to making a turbo operate on a vehicle then making a manifold and strapping it on. Like Filpipinos question stated.. Where should the MAF go.. In an OEM turbo setup there are usually installed Pre-turbo and the BOV is recirculated back into the turbo inlet after the MAF sensor. That way that any air which has been through the MAF has been accounted for.. Atmospheric BOV's on a MAF setup are a pain in the ass.. MAF sensors on non factory turbo equipt vehicles are a pain in the ass. Hense the reason why I don't like a poiggy back system, as you retain the ECM's controls and altering them to work for you is not all that easy.. I would suggest a standalone and a 3bar Map sensor.

5th - If you are trying to save money and build your own kit by all means.. That's what I did though when I sit down and figure out what I have spent on paper it is well in excess of $8000.. Keep in mind that you will have atleast one problem which will liquidate atleast $1000 directly out of your pocket once the setup is finished and running.. I've blown apart clutches, smashed 2 sets of pistons, went though a whole month after the car was originally built trying to diagnois a bad processor in the standalone.. It's not fun nor is it cheap.. Just bare in mind that a budjet is great but if you need your vehicle as a daily driver you may want to consider a sepoerate bank account to save money for the day something happens.. I have a company vehicle for work, so anywhere else I have to go I drive my Rio.. So if the Rio breaks down I have a vehicle to get to and from work.


But in the end it is all up to you on what you want to do.. Just when something happens don't start crying the amount it will cost you to fix as I have been down that road and have explianed it well to all of you (this rant isn't about Pilpipino as he understands what he is getting into somewhat) and I will be the first to say I told you so when you start whining about it..

The main thing here is :
Cheap and Reliable is not Fast
Fast and Cheap is not Reliable
Fast and Reliable is not Cheap
 

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RioTuner.....how much boost are you running and what are your numbers? I plan on using the new Garrett GT25BB turbo and the Tigerlilly pistons instead of the compression gasket.
You drive a Spectra right?.. I would suggest a larger turbo.. Probally something like a GT2876R or even a GT3071R. The GT25BB is not really a new turbo it was Garretts first real attempt at ball bearings.. The new GT series turbo with ballbearings are much more effeciant, plus the GT25BB is really rather small.. It would be a good upgrade for a 3 cyl firefly but not anything larger then a 1.6. I'm using a GT2560R and I love it.. And lowering the compression with pistons is a much better bet then stacking or installing a thicker head gaskets, both will lead you into problems.. And by replacing the pistons you will have a better look inside the engine and have the chance to freshen it up a little, new rod bolts, bearings, oil pump etc etc.

Boostwise I'm running about 8psi day to day but my standalone has an internal electronic boost controller with a switch on the dash set to 20 psi.
 

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RioTuner thanks for the info. I never meant that the Bell book was litterally the end all be all. Just a starting point for those who have no idea. Thanks for the info on the different turbo. I'm not a fan of piggybacks either and put the e-manage into the equation as far as the budget. I priced everything out without accounting for the tuning and you are a little on the low side with the $8K estimate. I'm staying NA for now until I can either use the 10K on getting my Kia the way they should've made it or taking that and putting it down on something like a G37, 335xi BMW, or C320 Benz. I would need that much having a Kia with the resale value of a Tonka truck at a yard sale. My car is an 06 2L spectra5 with less than 18K on the odometer. I'm not too worried about freshening up anything. If I do decide to spend the money to boost my car I was definately going to go with the pistons to lower the compression. Thanks for the info and we need more people who know what they are talking about like yourself.
 

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$8K is what I have spent roughly. That a full rebuild with 2 sets of forged pistons(ran into a little clearance issue with the first set, who said 0.012" was miniscule, clean and checked mazda rods, cleaned and checked mazda crank, full bearings and gaskets, 2 differant turbos (first one ran into bearing issues after I smashed the stock pistons), all of the piping, manifold, blow off valve, clutch, megasquirt ecm, boost controller, gauges and every other little piece that I can't remember at this time.. That includes basically no labour except for machining the engine as that was the only thing that I could not do myself, or at Sportage4x4's garage.

$4K is a good estimate for making a turbo kit on your own.. Maybe closer the about $6K if you have to pay someone to build it for you.. Once you pay for new pistons and what not you'll probally be around $8K including labour.
 

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I can do pretty much everything myself except tune the dang thing. My numbers were based on guages, turbo, piping, IC, BOV, clutch, e-manage ultimate, header, downpipe, exhaust, lightened flywheel, various hoses, oil catch can, aluminum radiator, silicone hoses for the radiator, new motor mounts, and tuning. I have access to a full garage with thousands of tools and mechanics that will help me out if I get stuck on something. We will see how things pan out in the next two years. Maybe someone will get off their ass and start making some good stuff for Kia's. We are like the forgotten brand. We are the Honda of the 2000's that they were in the 70's and 80's. Who knows.
 

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You want to good stuff.. You need a translator and a contact in Korea.. There are some serious turbo kits in Korea..
 

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I actually know a few Hungul translators since I was stationed in South Korea for two years. Unfortunatley it was before I owned my Spectra. I'm trying to talk my woman into letting me go back but she's convinced I have too much fun while I'm there. Go figure. There's a guy on CarDomain that has a boosted Shuma 5 in S. Korea. I'm trying to get in contact with him to see what he can do to help me out. I'm still not sure what they are doing for tuning over there.
 

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I have decided to wait till the Enforcer Supercharger is complete and ready to ship that NGM in FL is making right now. For no tuning on a stock Elantra, notice I said stock it was boosting 4.5lbs and making almost 180hp and 170fp of torque. Not bad for stock bolt on with no tuning. I'm drooling waiting for it to get finished.
 
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