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Rondo 2010
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all!

I have a Rondo 2010, V6 (EX), about 190 000 km on the counter.

Last month, I got this problem : in the morning, I turn the key and... nothing. Not even the familiar solonoid coil of the starter. Lights was working good. No engine light.

The next trial, the car started.

The problem was temporary in "random" conditions.

Then, the problem begin to appear more and more. By that I mean it took more key turn to make it start when the problem was prensent. When it wasn't the car started first time without a glitch.

After some days, I was finally able to reproduce the problem : putting the lights and the heater on for some minutes, then... Here we go, no starting. After charging the battery for 2-3 minutes, the car started like a charm. So I made the conclusion the original battery was diying after 6 good years of service.

I put a new battery in the car. And voilà, the problem disappear... until yesterday! :(

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Last time, my mechanic tried to reproduce the problem without any success ; he put the car in the garage and the car started every single time.

This time, the only "contributive factor" I can see is the cold weather. Yesterday was a cold day, some degrees below the freezing point.
Today, the temperature here is slighly under the freezing point, but the car started on the first trial.

My mechanic won't change the starter because he cannot reproduce the problem.

So my questions are :
Could it be the starter refuses to work solely because of the cold temperature? Can the cold, even with a good battery, make the starter randomly stop working?
Is there a kind of voltage check made by the car computer to avoid "even trying" to start the car if the battery voltage is too low?


I have no sign of a faulty alternator : everything work fine in the car.

I must admit the battery I have in the car now (about 1 month old) has received a very bad review under cold temperatures, but it was the only available...

Thank you for any help!
 

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99 Kia Elan 1.8L, 17 Ford Edge Sport 2.7L V6, 15 Mustang 3.7L V6, 08 Harley Nightrain
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I would start by ensuring all the main connections are clean and tight, between the battery Negative and chassis, engine ground strap to chassis, and batt positive to starter.
 

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Kia Sedona, Hyundai Elantra
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Hi Yvan,
I had similar issues with a random no-start issue with an '99 Mitsubishi Diamante used to own. I replaced the starter twice, batteries, batt terminals, and finally the ignition switch. But, I still had the random no-start issue. In hot weather or in cold weather. Odd?
Going thru the issue, i heard that sometimes electric contacts within the solenoid may wear out and lead to no-start conditions. In other cases, I heard that the starter rotor mounting may wear out; therefore, requiring more power to overcome the resistance to spin. Any of these issues would disappear if the starter assembly was replaced, but it didn't for me.
Changing the Ign switch was the last thing to replace; and it was expensive.

In summary i'd recommend to you:
a. Test for proper power: Connect a voltmeter to the batt terminals, place the display across the windshield (you'll need to see the display). Make sure you have at least 12.5V before cranking, proper charged battery. Crank the engine, the voltage will drop to around 11V, then the car should start. After starting the car, the alternator should feed the batt with 13.5V - 14.5V. Anything off that range, maybe a bad alternator, or bad connections or bad ground, or all of the above. Bad alternators damage batteries quickly, even new ones.
b. If it doesn't crank: If the starter doesn't spin, look at the voltage. It if drops (quickly) below 9.5V, then the batt doesn't have the strength to run the motor, or there is a strong resistance withing the starter. If it drops slowly, but no start, then you may have the issue i had: A bad (worn) battery cable.

I replaced the batt cables with aftermarket ones. But i later replaced them with genuine factory ones, the aftermarkets they get too hot (i didn't like that, they were probably undersized or too cheap). I replaced both leads, red and black, and the terminals too; originals are the way to go.
My suspicion is these cables go bad inside due to corrosion.

However, remove your starter first and have it bench tested. Then try other things if it's okay. Don't overlook the cables, not just the terminals.
One more thing, i dont have a Rondo, but the starter should be mounted on the trans housing (where the engine and the trans connect with each other). You'll need to get under the car: If it's between the trans and the radiator it should be covered by a heatshield. If not there, look between the trans and the cabin firewall. It may be above the transaxle. to remove, typically you'll need to disassblemble the air box (air intake) above to manouver the thing out.

MV
 

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Rondo 2010
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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you all for those very good ways to explore.

The car didn't made the problem since I posted on this forum.

But the temperature is going low today and in the days.

I bring my booster pack with me in case...

I will let you know if I can find the culprit.

MVKAMA, I'll keep my meter also in case the problem appear.

Martin
 
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