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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So let me preface this with a thanks for any help. I have read through every not starting thread I can find but I have not seen this exact issue.

So the car was running fine and I stopped for petrol. After filling up it would not start.

The car cranks.
There is no spark.
There is fuel pressure and the injectors are working.
Both the camshaft sensor and the crankcase sensor test ok.
All the fuses and relays test ok.

I have done the usual clean all the connectors, check the grounds etc.

The car is a 1999 model (auto) and has 93k miles on it (150k kms)


Before the stop the car did have another issue. When first started it lacked power until slightly warmed up (about 30 seconds). The thermostat and cooling system seemed fine but I replaced the Thermostat just to be sure but had no change. Also just once a few weeks before it lost power after climbing a long steep hill. It was fine going up the hill but when I backed off at the top it would barely run above idle unless I floored the accelerator. It went back to normal in about 10 seconds and did not do it again.


I will be testing the ECU in another car in the next few days but any other advice on what to test would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ahhh yes, I forgot to say I checked the timing belt and it is intact.

All the relays test ok, unless there is one hidden away somewhere I am missing?

Everything seems to work just there is no spark.
 

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it does not sound like ecu...

check compression.

spark - how did you test for spark?

and stupid question... did you pour petrol or diesel?
 

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I do not see an ECU issue (yet),

We are wandering in the grey area now, which market was the vehicle intended for?

In the N. American market there is a main relay under the dash (yellow) which can display the symptoms you describe, the contacts carbon over causing high resistance (open)..
What are you using as a test instrument?
Have you tested for full Battery+ at the ECU??.... Philip
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the help guys, I really appreciate it.

I had tested compression when I got the car about a month beforehand. It tested good (120 PSI on all cylinders).

Spark was tested with a multimeter and also with a spark plug in the leads and grounded on the engine.

The relays, fuses and sensors where tested with a mulitmeter.

It was filled up with petrol, not diesel.


It's an Australian delivered Sportage. It has relays in the engine bay and fuses behind a kick panel in the drivers foot well.

If the yellow relay is under the dash in this model, where is it located exactly?

I did try jump starting it just in case, but no joy. They battery that's in there is quite new and has good charge.
 

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Greetings,

As a sanity-check, I'd recommend removing spark plug #1, inserting a screwdriver or wooden dowel in the plug hole, turning the crank bolt clockwise & watch the rise/fall of it, making sure cylinder #1 TDC matches the TDC mark on the crank pulley, this to confirm mechanical timing,

re: relays - your Sporty is at that age where others on the forum have reported relay issues, consider replacing (both) the Main relay and Fuel Pump relay as a primary diagnostic step..

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re: Ignition - (if it was me), I would confirm the condition of the lead from the back of the motor connector -> the coil packs, test for (+12volt) present to each coil pack,

remove & check resistance values on each of the coil packs,

and if equipped, the resistance value of each of the resistors contained in the short HT leads * remove each short HT lead, the resistor if present should be in-line between the lead and coil pack,

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If the Sporty does not start in (Park), try placing the selector in (Neutral), if it starts, that would point the the selector switch in the Transmission..

Happy Holidays,
GottaCruise
 

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Thanks for the help guys, I really appreciate it.

I had tested compression when I got the car about a month beforehand. It tested good (120 PSI on all cylinders).
I regret to inform you that 120psi would be considered as a near death engine, you should be looking at 170psi cold, and +/-180psi hot
Low across the board reading may signal the engine mechanically miss timed, skipped a tooth or two on the belt.. or a damaged key way on the crank snout.... This would also explain the lose of power....

Check the power pin on the ECU and if "0"vdc work your way back to fuse... Philip
 

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slow down with the compression numbers.

There are different gauges - one is calibrated at 0 (zero) other can be at -50 PSI.

However, I was asking about compression NOW, with the problem. As GottaCruise said - the test with a stick will tell you if the parts are moving. Plus, you might want to check timing marks. Would belt skip? It could...
 

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slow down with the compression numbers.

There are different gauges - one is calibrated at 0 (zero) other can be at -50 PSI.

However, I was asking about compression NOW, with the problem. As GottaCruise said - the test with a stick will tell you if the parts are moving. Plus, you might want to check timing marks. Would belt skip? It could...
A damaged snout or a slipped belt will not show up on a "stick in the plug hole", that only indicates rotation of crank, not correlation to valve timing....

I was only indicating that there may be an issue other than/in addition to the electrical..

As you have this one in hand, I will sit back and enjoy my Christmas..

Merry Christmas to all!.... Philip
 

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A damaged snout or a slipped belt will not show up on a "stick in the plug hole", that only indicates rotation of crank, not
that's why I said to check timing marks... do not quote out of context
 

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that's why I said to check timing marks... do not quote out of context
I know you are a moderator, and

I say again the timing marks (pulley) will not ensure that the belt has not jumped teeth... The piston and timing mark can line up with the valves out of sync... Has been that way since I started rebuilding engines (50yrs)... And hasn't changed, I am now (65)......

I am not here to start a pissing contest..Just here to assist (intelligently)... Greetings! ... Philip
 

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No, Philip's right, I omitted that important piece of information -
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the top timing belt cover should also be off while checking for true TDC, the index marks on the (I)ntake and (E)xhaust cams should also align with their TDC marks on the top cover plate,

agree 120 compression is low, if universally low across all cylinders, and apparent TDC alignment is good, then would also be suspect of a damaged keyway.. Even cold testing, I would have expected 140+ here.

Sorry about the incomplete info - thanks for the catch Philip.

Happy Holidays,
Robert
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks guys I will definitely check the timing and the compression again this weekend.

I had a Kia before this one that got all the windows smashed by vandals that tested 90 PSI on all Cylinders and ran fine so it sounds like the compression tester might be out of wack. I will source another.


I did check that the coil packs were getting voltage (they are) and just today I also swapped them over from a friends running car but no joy. My ECU runs fine in the other car though so it's not that it seems.


So if the keyway is damaged or the timing is out of wack there will be no spark at all?
 

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I know you are a moderator, and

I say again the timing marks (pulley) will not ensure that the belt has not jumped teeth... The piston and timing mark can line up with the valves out of sync... Has been that way since I started rebuilding engines (50yrs)... And hasn't changed, I am now (65)......

I am not here to start a pissing contest..Just here to assist (intelligently)... Greetings! ... Philip
ok, whatever you say... however, to my knowledge, there is only one spot that the timing marks are correct (crankshaft and camshaft).
 

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So if the keyway is damaged or the timing is out of wack there will be no spark at all?
might, but does not have to.

Let's put it this way - if the coils get input from both - camshaft and crankshaft then you will not see a spark (it is safe-proof design where in case of misalignment the signals are not coordinated; hence, no spark). If either one only - spark should be there.

However, I am not sure how it is designed in your car...
 
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