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2001 Kia Sportage 2WD 4Cyl
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Stereo heat unit loses power when braking... burnt but good fuse?

So I noticed this earlier, it happened once or twice when I lifted off the gas, cruised a bit (a little over 30/40mph?), started on the brake to slow for the stop sign/stop light, and I see my head unit flash off, and reboot.

I thought this was weird, but figured it was just one time so let it go.
Later on the drive, I notice it again, and then I start noticing it EVERY time I brake.
I pull over and check the majors, engine bay (I heard a buzzing awhile back with the key on the ON/ACC, but did not hear it again), and then checked the fuses.

The "Radio 10A" one was fine, however the legs seemed very... burnt?

I should preface this saying that prior to noticing the first loss of power, that I had almost overheated, again. Most of you will know that my radiator completely blew a hole in the plastic cover about two-three weeks ago. The temp gauge was hitting ~75% when I pulled over to let it rest with the hood open. Drove back to where I needed to be and left it sitting at 75% (again) with hood open until I started it back up when it was at 25% on the temp gauge. On the drive home, it didn't peak over the 60%, and stayed at a pretty constant 40-45%.

I should also wrap up that I DO have a powered subwoofer installation in the back, but that is straight off the battery, beside the remote-on 16AWG wire, and the two RCAs.
I also have a Sony Xplod CDX Head Unit (aftermarket)

Attached are the pictures of the fuse- I left it out on the drive home as I did not have a spare [being used in the light mod].
Should I stop by Pep Boys tomorrow and grab some more 10A fuses?
 

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2000 Sportage EX 4x4 A/T, 2008 Harley Davidson Nightrain
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184 Posts
Sounds like you may have a short in your wiring. When the HU resets, does it loose all of your stereo settings (factory reset) or does it just turn off and back on?
 

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2001 Kia Sportage 2WD 4Cyl
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Discussion Starter #3
Sounds like you may have a short in your wiring. When the HU resets, does it loose all of your stereo settings (factory reset) or does it just turn off and back on?
Just off and back on.
I also noticed that it didn't happen as many times when I drove it around the block with the fuse in.
I'm thinking it was perhaps the fuse?
 

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2000 Sportage EX 4x4 A/T, 2008 Harley Davidson Nightrain
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184 Posts
Just off and back on.
I also noticed that it didn't happen as many times when I drove it around the block with the fuse in.
I'm thinking it was perhaps the fuse?
It won't hurt to replace it as a diagnostic step (especially if it doesn't look normal). But I think if it was the fuse, the HU would factory reset each time it went off and on.

Since it's only turning off and on, I'd suspect something is up with your 12V switched power to the HU. Checkout the HU wiring plug to make sure nothing is loose or any pins didn't back out of the plug or are bent. If you didn't solder your wire connections, check those out too to make sure you still have a good connection.

If all that checks out it would time to test the switched 12V wire for shorts, opens, and grounds. But tracking down an intermittent electrical problem is a pain in the butt.
 

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2001 Kia Sportage 2WD 4Cyl
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Discussion Starter #5
I dropped by Pep Boys to grab some fuses, but decided to give it a try with the original fuse still in.

Driving about 30 miles around town, it looks to be fine.
On the pedal all day, no switchin off.

I'm going to pull the HU out tomorrow and reassure all plugs are in solidly.

It's weird..
I'll keep the 5 pack of 10A fuses, just incase.
 

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2000 Sportage EX 4x4 A/T, 2008 Harley Davidson Nightrain
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I dropped by Pep Boys to grab some fuses, but decided to give it a try with the original fuse still in.

Driving about 30 miles around town, it looks to be fine.
On the pedal all day, no switchin off.

I'm going to pull the HU out tomorrow and reassure all plugs are in solidly.

It's weird..
I'll keep the 5 pack of 10A fuses, just incase.
Another thing I thought of to check if it does it again - you can use your sub to help troubleshoot. Where my sub sits I can see a couple of blue dots in my rear view mirror when it's turned on. If you can see those too (or the blue light in general), try to see if the sub is also turning off and on with the HU.

If the sub is not, then the problem is somewhere from the HU up to where you spliced in the remote turn on wire for the sub.

If the sub is, then the problem is somewhere in the car's wiring harness, ignition switch, etc.
 

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2001 Kia Sportage 2WD 4Cyl
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Discussion Starter #7
Another thing I thought of to check if it does it again - you can use your sub to help troubleshoot. Where my sub sits I can see a couple of blue dots in my rear view mirror when it's turned on. If you can see those too (or the blue light in general), try to see if the sub is also turning off and on with the HU.

If the sub is not, then the problem is somewhere from the HU up to where you spliced in the remote turn on wire for the sub.

If the sub is, then the problem is somewhere in the car's wiring harness, ignition switch, etc.
I had not thought of that, will keep that in mind next time it shuts off...
Though, the thing is, it's just as if the power loses and comes back on instantly, as if it just restarts..
So it'd be hard to find the LEDs in the rearview mirror before the HU comes back on.

Driving some more, it hasn't happened again; though my car has hit about 95% on the temp gauge, again.. but that's a different story.
 

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'96 Camry v6 XLE, '00 Camry LE
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Rawfuls,

You really should get that overheat problem addressed - you are risking warping the cylinder head / blowing the head gasket running it hot like that,

I'd start by checking / changing the thermostat if not done when the radiator was replaced,

checking the mechanical fan clutch is working ok, the fan clutch belt,

checking the alterrnator is working ok (including removing and having a load test done on it),

the battery, including removing and having a load/short test done on it,

--
If/when that happens, turn off all other electrical accessories (sub/amp/stereo,lighting/,etc), turn off A/C, move heater control to Hot, turn on heater to draw heat out of the coolant system & motor, but best is to pull over & turn off the Sporty and wait until it cools down..

--
I know you've gotten used to driving your Sporty w/ a mechanical issue and living with it, point I'm trying to make here is the issue will get worse / you will not be able to work-around it at some point.. Again, I'd get it fixed ASAP.

Regards,
GottaCruise
 

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2001 Kia Sportage 2WD 4Cyl
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Discussion Starter #9
I agree, GottaCruise.

The thermostat was not noted as to being replaced on the invoice, so I suspect it wasn't replaced.

I took a look at RockAuto, and it looks like the thermostats are only a few bucks.
Would there be a way to check to see if the thermostat is working well without removing the coolant fluid?

At what temperature should the fan turn on? (I assume the thermostat sets off the radiator fan).

I have seen the fan working, so I know it works..
However, it's weird that there's only one fan way off to the side, and it appears that there would be enough room for two- is this normal?

--
The last time I pulled over due to it, I sprinkled water over the radiator hose (did not want to sprinkle water on the plastic due to extreme heat + cold would possibly crack the radiator cap, what I blew before), as well as on the metal block.
It seemed to cool it down well, but I'm not liking the fact that I need to keep an extra cold water bottle everywhere I go.. :rolleyes:
 

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'96 Camry v6 XLE, '00 Camry LE
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You should have (2) fans on the Sporty,

(1) in the front / visible through the grill is the A/C condensor fan, this is an electric fan that is turned on when you running A/C in the vehicle,

** (1) in back of the radiator is the mechanical fan clutch: this is mounted to a pulley on the block, center of the motor, and is driven by a belt from the motor / the fan and clutch extend into

** the plastic radiator shroud which is attached to -> extending from the back of the radiator, purpose of the radiator fan shroud is to allow the radiator fan to pull airflow from the entire surface area of the radiator -> to the fan shroud opening,

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re: checking thermostat, if it's a sticking thermostat, you will need to remove the thermostat to test in a container of (very hot) water to check mechanical operation of the thermostat / to visually verify the thermostat is opening properly.. But if a sticking thermostat is suspect, I would plan on replacing it irregardless of what the test reveals.

With engine cold, key off, check condition of the fan clutch belt for proper tension, and condition for any glazing or cracks/fraying of the belt,

With engine cold, key off, gloves on, you should be able to turn the plastic fan blade assembly attached to the fan clutch, should have some resistance on it..

Start vehicle and run to normal operating temp., turn the Sporty off.

With engine warm/hot,, key off, gloves and arm protection on, you should not be able to turn the plastic fan blade attached to the fan clutch (or it should have excessive resistance), the fan clutch should be fully engaged when the Sporty is at normal operating temp.,

You should also be able to hear the fan clutch engaging / the airflow from the radiator shroud with the Sporty running / the fan clutch operating properly.

--
** If you do not have a mechanical fan clutch at the back of the radiator, or the fan shroud is not there/missing, post back ASAP.

*will be offline until early evening, but will check back then..

Regards,
GottaCruise
 

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2001 Kia Sportage 2WD 4Cyl
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Discussion Starter #11
Ah, didn't notice the two differing fans (A/C and Radiator->Engine).

The offset A/C condensor fan looked so weird to me, I figured it was the radiator- and it was only supposed to be one.

Why is it that the A/C radiator is more forward than the engine radiator? Or are they both connected?
TBH, that sounds like a terrible idea, all that hot air from the A/C will be shot right into the engine rad, causing a huge rise in temps...

Anywho, going on..

--

re: thermostat:
What other types of thermostats are there?
What are the chances of mine being a sticking thermostat and "other" thermostat?

I mean, my Sporty runs at a fine temp right under the halfway mark, I'd say about 40-45% of the the temp gauge is it's "normal operating temp"?

The reason I suspected a faulty fan was that I had thought the rad fan would be constantly off, until it hits a certain temp, which would then activate the fan.. or is this true?

re belt/fan tests:
Engine cold, key off, belt looks to be normal, nothing that jumps out as faulty, to me.
Engine cold, key off, spinning fan, it does have LITTLE resistance, can still be turned with the flick of the finger
Engine hot (40-45%), I can still flick the fan, as before, little to no resistance.

Is the fan clutch constantly engaging?
What did you mean I should be able to hear it?

For what it's worth, to ME, it seems that the fan seems to be running a little slow, just from the eye.
I'm used to computer fans (I'm a computer tech), but this fan seems to be running fine- just... slower?
I mean, I'm sure it'd still cut my finger, but a clean cut.. I wouldn't be sure- do you get what I'm trying to say?
Given- I have not seen how other fans run, so take this with a grain of salt.

shroud/mech fan in the back seems to be there.
 

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'96 Camry v6 XLE, '00 Camry LE
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Ah, didn't notice the two differing fans (A/C and Radiator->Engine).

The offset A/C condensor fan looked so weird to me, I figured it was the radiator- and it was only supposed to be one.

Why is it that the A/C radiator is more forward than the engine radiator? Or are they both connected?
TBH, that sounds like a terrible idea, all that hot air from the A/C will be shot right into the engine rad, causing a huge rise in temps...

Anywho, going on..

--

re: thermostat:
What other types of thermostats are there?
What are the chances of mine being a sticking thermostat and "other" thermostat?

I mean, my Sporty runs at a fine temp right under the halfway mark, I'd say about 40-45% of the the temp gauge is it's "normal operating temp"?

The reason I suspected a faulty fan was that I had thought the rad fan would be constantly off, until it hits a certain temp, which would then activate the fan.. or is this true?

re belt/fan tests:
Engine cold, key off, belt looks to be normal, nothing that jumps out as faulty, to me.
Engine cold, key off, spinning fan, it does have LITTLE resistance, can still be turned with the flick of the finger
Engine hot (40-45%), I can still flick the fan, as before, little to no resistance.

Is the fan clutch constantly engaging?
What did you mean I should be able to hear it?

For what it's worth, to ME, it seems that the fan seems to be running a little slow, just from the eye.
I'm used to computer fans (I'm a computer tech), but this fan seems to be running fine- just... slower?
I mean, I'm sure it'd still cut my finger, but a clean cut.. I wouldn't be sure- do you get what I'm trying to say?
Given- I have not seen how other fans run, so take this with a grain of salt.

shroud/mech fan in the back seems to be there.
Hi Rawfuls,

ok, lots of questions, so here we go..

1) The A/C condenser fan is an electric fan that *pushes airflow from the grill through the A/C condenser to help cool the A/C charge, that's what it is designed to do.

In other words, it's designed to cool the A/C condenser, -not- the coolant in the radiator.

2) The mechanical radiator fan pulls air from the grill through both the A/C condenser -and- coolant radiator, that's what it is designed to do.

** If -either- fan is not operating properly (electric A/C condenser pusher fan or mechanical radiator "puller" fan), an overheat can occur.

re: thermostats - thermostats are spec'd based on the temperature that they fully open to allow coolant flow through to the radiator, e.g. 180 degree, 190 degree.

a thermostat is a bimetallic spring attached to a plate that when cold, is closed & restricts coolant flow from the engine block -> the radiator. This is so the engine warms up quickly in cold weather.

as the coolant heats up, the bimetallic spring contracts and pulls the plate open -> allowing coolant to flow to the radiator. a properly working thermostat & spring pulls the restriction plate opens evenly and is fully open at rated operating temp., and expands closes evenly after the engine is shut off / as the coolant cools down back to the closed position.

a "sticking" thermostat indicates an issue with the bimetallic spring or restriction plate where the plate does not open fully at operating temp., this can be caused by a worn or weak spring, mechanical binding of the restriction plate, etc.

** The end result is the thermostat does not fully open, therefore you do not get adequate coolant flow to the radiator, which can cause an overheat condition.

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The mechanical fan clutch also engages based on temperature.

The fan clutch also has a bimetallic spring that responds to temperature, as the spring heats up it, opens a port in the fan clutch to release fluid into the spacing inside the clutch, engaging the fan portion of the clutch against the belt driven portion of the clutch.

This article gives a better explanation of how the mechanical fan clutch on the Sporty works:

Learn about how the fan clutch works from howstuffinmycarworks

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Your check of the mechanical fan clutch when the engine was at operating temp. shows the mechanical fan clutch is weak / not working properly. Per the info above, that is most likely contributing to your overheat issue,

The thermostat may be working properly in the Sporty, it may not be. If the thermostat is original, consider changing it out after replacing the mechanical fan clutch and running: if the overheat problem is solved by replacing the fan clutch, don't change, if you notice any further issues (temp climbing above 1/2 mark), change it out with new.

--
re: replacement fan clutch - I personally would stay away from an aftermarket / rebuilt / discount fan clutch - I've been burned too many times replacing them in the '00 Sporty before electric fan conversion.

I'd recommend purchasing new OEM fan clutch only - for the extra $$$ up-front you will avoid spending 85-100 dollars replacing aftermarket version of same every 8-12 months, which was my experience.. I'd PM cobra259 here on the forum to see what he could do on pricing for you (or maybe he'll jump in here if he reads this.)

So in short, your test of the fan clutch at operating temp. showed it is not fully engaging / working as expected, I'd replace it (or take to a shop for a 2nd opinion) ASAP.

Regards,
Robert (aka GottaCruise)
 

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2001 Kia Sportage 2WD 4Cyl
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Discussion Starter #13
Wow, that's a lot of information.
I really do appreciate all the work and help you have given me... I can firmly say that I've learned more about this Sporty then I have known about any car! :p

What makes me curious about whether or not some parts may be defective, is that I have made many trips about an hour or two long, and have not had any overheating issue.

Wouldn't having a sticky thermostat or defective mech. fan clutch ALWAYS lead to some sort overheating? As opposed to a once in awhile overheat?
 

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'96 Camry v6 XLE, '00 Camry LE
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A valid question - no, due to if the thermostat was sticking intermittently,

no, due to the (ambient outside air temp + coolant temp + if A/C running) was greater than the (weak) mechanical fan clutch airflow could cool,

remembering that the A/C condenser (pusher) fan is just a "helper" fan, the expectation is that the mechanical clutch fan is in good working order to handle most of the load in cooling the A/C condenser and coolant radiator..
 

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2001 Kia Sportage 2WD 4Cyl
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Discussion Starter #15
Since picking up the car, I've only turned the A/C on once or twice.
Since the A/C no longer works as great as it used to (me thinking it just needs a freon recharge), I'm fully content with rolling down the windows.

For what it's worth, I'm now keeping the ducts open (no more closed circulation), with the selector on HOT.

Driving down the FWY, I can definitely feel the heat coming from the engine bay into the ducts.
Hoping this will tie me over until I can get over to a shop for a 2nd opinion on the fan clutch/thermostat.
 

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'96 Camry v6 XLE, '00 Camry LE
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good deal - keeping the selector on hot and drawing heat out of the cooling system, while uncomfortable in warm weather, will help keep your motor cool,

*but if the temp. starts rising abnormally with the heater on,

be sure to pull over and shut the engine off, turn to accessory & run the blower to draw as much heat out of the system as possible, then turn heater off / key out and allow the motor to fully cool down before continuing, to avoid turning a cooling system issue into a major motor repair..

Keep us posted how you make out w/ the repair,

Regards,
GottaCruise
 

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2001 Kia Sportage 2WD 4Cyl
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Discussion Starter #17
good deal - keeping the selector on hot and drawing heat out of the cooling system, while uncomfortable in warm weather, will help keep your motor cool,

*but if the temp. starts rising abnormally with the heater on,

be sure to pull over and shut the engine off, turn to accessory & run the blower to draw as much heat out of the system as possible, then turn heater off / key out and allow the motor to fully cool down before continuing, to avoid turning a cooling system issue into a major motor repair..

Keep us posted how you make out w/ the repair,

Regards,
GottaCruise
While on the topic of my motor....
Remember when my O2 sensor was smoking prior?

I pulled into work this morning, and saw some smoke coming out as well.
It seems to be an exhaust leak as it kept coming from inside of the heat shield as opposed to the wiring as I suspected prior.

Could it be just a gasket that needs to be replaced?
 

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'96 Camry v6 XLE, '00 Camry LE
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It could be the gasket, but unlikely - the gasket between the exhaust manifold and upper pre-cat is a 2 layer metal gasket, they generally don't fail, in-fact, they are designed to be re-used..

Just thinking out loud, but if your upper pre-cat is starting to fail (is cracked internally), that may also explain the occasional overheat: if the ceramic material is in-fact damaged & partially blocking the exhaust exit at the bottom of the cat, that would also cause the Sporty to overheat due to restricted exhaust flow..

How's the Sporty been running?

Any loss of power when the overheat starts to occur?
Any hesitation or bucking when it starts to overheat?

That info. would help.
 

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2001 Kia Sportage 2WD 4Cyl
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Discussion Starter #19
My pre-catalytic converter?

During the "overheat", I presume you mean between the point of 75-100% of the temp gauge.

This is usually when I start panicking, and slowly depressing the pedal to accelerate (if say, stopped at a stoplight).
However, I do feel a slight loss of power, then again when it's in this high part of the temp gauge I try my best not to push the motor to it's max to accel fast.

However, when running "normal temps", it seems to run fine, though a bit hard to get up to the 60s-70s on the FWY. (Just floor it until it gets up there, or work my way up there takes a bit)

Anyway to further diagnose the pre-cat?
 

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'96 Camry v6 XLE, '00 Camry LE
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With a vacuum gauge at the O2 bung in the exhaust manifold,

but the way I've done it (and I know you are not going to like this answer) is to remove the heat shield, remove the O2 sensor, and physically remove and inspect the pre-Cat internals, and remove & physically inspect the exhaust manifold for cracks,

* I've never checked the exhaust manifold / pre-Cat for restriction using a vacuum gauge, so hopefully the folks who have used this method will jump in here w/ that info. to help.
 
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