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2001 Kia Rio, Automatic
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7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Shakes when accelerating

I have a 2001 rio that recently began to shake when accelerating from a stop and acts like it doesn't want to go. It drives fine once it gets up to speed and it doesn't seem to happen if I accelerate very gradually. I checked the cables that run to the spark plugs by unplugging them from the ignition coils and noticed one coil wasn't sparking as much as the others when unplugged, afterwards a check engine light came on when it wasn't on before. can anyone tell me if the two are related and what the problem might be?
 

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2001 Kia Rio, Automatic
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7 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
I have a 2001 Rio that vibrates when in drive or reverse, but only when stopped. It disappears when I step on the gas and mostly goes away when in park or neutral. Most of the vibration can be seen and felt through the steering wheel, but the rest of the car also shakes some. Can anyone tell me what might be causing this?
 

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1995 Procharged Mustang Cobra -- 2006 Grand Cheorkee limted Hemi.
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4,422 Posts
So, when you release the brake's it goes away? If so, you have wraped front brake rotors.
 

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2001 Kia Rio, Automatic
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7 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Ive also noticed that when it is moving, if I step hard enough on the gas to make it shift into a higher gear it shakes too, but gradual acceleration doesn't cause it to shake.
 

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2016 FIAT 500X Trekking Plus AWD; 2016 Kia Forte5 SX 1.6T A/T
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location and mileage of the car please

shakes - meaning has no power/struggles?
if you had no spark - did you replace the coil?

CEL - what codes? I guess it would be misfire since you disconnected the coil


what the problem?
many things - from bad air filter to damaged head/valve seats, but we must narrow it by simply knowing more details
 

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2002 Kia Rio, 2011 Kia Sorento 2005 f 250 1996 geo metro 1992 f 150
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1,023 Posts
If you are stopping and not stopped i would agree with cobra warped rotors on the front. If you are stopped yep check the motor mount's like rob say's. When you are in park or nutreal the load is off the tranny and motor like rob say's good luck with it let us know what you find.
 

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2001 Kia Rio, Automatic
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7 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
motor mounts

I took it to a shop today, and they said it was the motor mounts. I currently can't afford to get the work done. Does anyone know how difficult a job it is, and what I would need to do it myself?
 

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99 Kia Elan 1.8L, 17 Ford Edge Sport 2.7L V6, 15 Mustang 3.7L V6, 08 Harley Nightrain
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Same subject threads merged.
 

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2016 FIAT 500X Trekking Plus AWD; 2016 Kia Forte5 SX 1.6T A/T
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now you got me confused... what spark had to do with motor mount?
anyway, there is an easy way to get them repaired
it takes some time, some expenses as well, but (depending on the mounts) will be less expensive then getting new ones.
However, there is downside. The mounts will be much harder than the regular rubber. They will transmit some vibrations, especially at idle.
check here
Homemade Motor Mounts

I did it to my Elantra and it is great, well for me.
It cost me 20 for the polyurethane can, and two days.
To make curing faster I put the mounts into oven with a tray of hot boiling water (oven was OFF). Moisture and heat from the water was enough to harden them overnight.

Replacing mounts can be tricky as some are not easily accessible. Plus some may require lifting the engine - without proper knowledge you can crack transmission and or heavily bent oil pan.
 

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2012 Kia Soul+, Kia Sportage SX FWD
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472 Posts
They aren't too bad. Not easy, but doable in your driveway. I replaced my lower (tranny) mounts while I owned it. You need a jack and something to support the engine underneath while dropping the crossmember under the transmission.
Lift engine just enough to take weight/strain off mounts and block it there. Then loosen the bolts attaching the mounts to the crossmember, and then lower and remove the crossmember (you don't actually have to remove it completely, but can drop the front side to access the front mount ,,and then dreplace the bolts and drop the rear to access the rear mount. This way you don't have to work so hard realigning the entire crossmember and mounts all at once. Leaving half the bolts in (front or back) keeps it where it belongs and you only have to lift it and retorque the crossmember bolts when done with the mounts. It will make more sense when you get under there..
The upper mount on passenger side doesn't typically fail but if so it can be replaced easiest of all. Just lift weight off it and remove and replace. Use wood pad on your jack so as not to crack any pan or engine castings.
Now back to your vibration....
Sounds like you have a miss. Either from plug wires or plugs. If it misses under load, I would check the wires, the plug gap and condition. Remember as the mixture compresses in the cylinder it is harder for the spark to jump the gap on plug. The current will instead leak out a faulty wire (to ground). Watch the engine run in the dark. Do you see sparks? Personally, if I had over 90K miles on a Rio, I would simply replace the wires and plugs and not even waste time searching. Just get it out of the way and eliminate that possibility. If you connect a code reader you will see a PO301,302,303,304 code on your misfires... depending on the cylinder.
Lastly, check the coil connections (bottom of coils and see that theare clean and not broken or corroded. A bad connection here will also cause a misfire.
 

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2002 Kia Rio 2003 Dodge Durango 1993 Chevy C1500
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95 Posts
Fairly easy job. You will need a floor jack, a REAL floor jack, not those $20 mini sized ones you keep in your car! Good Jack Stands. Do them one at a time, don't lift the engine too much, just enough to support it while changing them, and use common sense. I don't recall needing any special tools either.
 
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