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Sephia 2001, Sedona 2003
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Discussion Starter #1
Been having starter problems in my Sedona 2003 (127k miles) . Both battery and alternator are new (free warranty exchanges from Advance Auto parts.) Doublechecked battery last night, measured 710 cranking amps which is great.

Car fails to start when hot after it has run for 30 min or so. Yesterday afternoon I stopped when car was hot and it would not crank at all. Battery measured 12.62 v which looked OK. A mechanic near where I was came out with a portable charger (1200 amp thing used for trucks), and he was able to start it after about 5 tries. He thought the problem was the starter. WEIRD THING... when I was not getting anything from ignition switch, I tried to switch car into neutral and shift stick was locked at park preventing me from shifting (as happens when battery is not connected) . This odd behavior which happened the last time car failed to start, makes me think it is not the starter at all, but perhaps a relay, or a switch upline. Does anyone know what prevents shifter from moving out of park? Maybe that same switch or relay is not letting battery voltage reach my starter.

The part that makes me think it may be the starter is that car cranks slow even when battery is topped up. If it is the starter, WHERE IS THE STARTER? I read some posts that said to remove the air cleaner, but then I realized that most of those have to do with Brit diesel cars. Mine is U.S. gas powered 6 cyl engine.

Been all over Kiatechinfo and there is not one picture that shows location of the starter nor can I find a replacement procedure...Appreciate any help I can get with location and procedure.

Many thanks in advance for any help here.
 

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Sephia 2001, Sedona 2003
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Discussion Starter #2
Heat shield is killing me !

Found the starter, and have removed the screws on the heat sink? around it., but pulling out that heat sink so far has proved impossible. Pulled a bracket that holds the exhaust pipe in place, but that did not give the room I needed. Is the trick here loosening the starter and then pulling both items at once. I am afraid to do so and break one of the wires to the starter, because you cannot get to the wires until you pull that stupid little metal cage off. Is that item necessary? I have pulled starters from about 5 different cars, and never ran into one that needed such a cage.

Appreciate any feedback here. I am actually not convinced that the starter is bad, but wanted to pull the wires off it and check for any corrosion.
 

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99 Kia Elan 1.8L
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I'm not familiar with that model, but it looks like you will need to drop the exhaust pipe to get that heat shield and starter out of there.

Hopefully someone familiar with this model will chirp in, but in the meantime, have you looked on the KiaTech web site?
 

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Sephia 2001, Sedona 2003
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Discussion Starter #4
Ron, thanks for the response.

Hi Ron, many thanks for the response. I have avoided taking off the exhaust because another senior member had commented on a thread from about 2 years ago that dropping the exhaust here was to be avoided, as it would open up a major can of worms...he didn't specify, but that was enough to make me pull back. This gentleman says it is possible to take the heat shield and starter off without dropping the exhaust. I'll try to find the post and write him a private message to see if he responds. I looked in Kiatechinfo, and they have no procedure for replacing the starter. They do have detailed procedures on how to work on the starter at the subassembly level !

Luckily this week I have access to my son's car, and I am working from home, so I'll have a little more time to work on it.
 

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Sephia 2001, Sedona 2003
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Discussion Starter #5
Knowledge contributions accepted...don't be shy

Just watched a video of the replacement of a starter in a Kia Spectra. As I suspected there is no heat shield cage around that starter...Apparently this is mainly a Sedona thing, but it makes the job extremely difficult. What is the value of this make-it-a-hassle piece of metal?

Can anybody tell me what sort of trouble I am bound to run into if I remove the exhaust pipe off the manifold? This would give me the room I need to remove the shield cage thing, but a senior member warned against removal of exhaust pipe (Open up a can of worms ! ) so I am deferring to greater knowledge, and avoiding the exhaust pipe.....Sure seems it would make the job easier !!

Many thanks in advance.
 

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99 Kia Elan 1.8L
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The older the vehicle is, and exposure to corrosive environment, the more corrosion you'll see on the bolts and nuts.
Use WD40 on the nuts and bolts, and expect that you may need new nuts and bolts along with new exhaust gaskets.
 

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Sephia 2001, Sedona 2003
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Discussion Starter #7
A soliloquy on starters.

A forum should be an exchange of ideas, but this post is starting to feel like a soliloquy on starters. Except for the ever reliable Ron1004, no one else has chipped in.

At lunchtime I stopped by the Kia Dealership and caught up with two mechanics finishing their coffee. They both told me that the correct way to pull the starter is to loosen the two exhaust pipe bolts off the manifold, and possibly the two downline from that, and then the heat shield/cage and the starter come off easily. The gaskets are soft metal ones and they don't break off by pullling the pipe. They also told me that the shield cage is a little unique to the Sedona, and it is used because the starter on the Sedona is right off the exhaust pipe, so the metal cage deflects most of that heat from the starter.

Will update when the job is done.
 

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99 Kia Elan 1.8L
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Keep in mind that this is a public forum and many folks only view the section of the forum that covers their own vehicle, and having said that - it could be that there's not many Sedona DIY owners on the forum and they don't visit often.
 

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Gitmoray, I just put my starter back in my 04 Sedona this evening. I DID NOT have to take the exhaust bolt out. However, I did have to remove the heat shield from around the exhaust pipe adjacent to the starter heat shield. I recommend using something to loosen the bolts (PB Blaster worked for me). I still had to use a pry bar to "coax" it out, but had to use little force. Feel free to e-mail me if you have any other questions. This thing is a pain in the ______!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
04 Sedona different ?

<< 04 Sedona. I did have to remove the heat shield from around the exhaust pipe adjacent to the starter heat shield. >>

Hi Doc, many thanks for your reply. Last night I started working on the exhaust, and put on some "Liquid Wrench" penetrating oil to loosen the nuts. I loosened the nuts with a long pry bar, and got some room, but not enough to get the starter shield off. By the way, the 04 Sedona must be different in this area, as the 03 does not have a shield around the exhaust pipe, only the starter. I loosened the nuts holding the exhaust pipe to the solenoid.

Tomorrow I will start again , and to get the room I need I will have to remove the sensor at the start of the exhaust pipe, as the wire on that guy is so short that it does not allow the exhaust to be lowered much, let alone be removed. The other side of this wire comes from the very innards of the engine compartment, so I cannot loosen it from up on top...typical KIA BS...the simplest job requires tearing the car apart to accomplish. I truly hate having to put a wrench on a sensor that sits on an exhaust pipe that has been heating up for 10 years, but those are the choices they force you into by not putting one inch of slack on the cable.

<< This thing is a pain in the ______! >> You are obviously much too kind to the KIA engineers...my thoughts about them right now revolve around a shoot-em-up video game, where the good guys are do-it-yourselvers, and the bad guys all wear "KIA engineering" shirts :^)
 

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The lead on the O2 sensor is not very long - I would follow it from the sensor to the connector, disconnect it and leave the sensor in the pipe.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
O2 sensor already disconnected

Hi Ron, thanks for the input...as it turns out, I disconnected the thing this morning, and that proved to be the easiest, as it was just a soft twist of a 22mm wrench. That said, it did not buy me very much, as even with the sensor out, the exhaust pipe barely dropped, because there is another set of screws holding it about two more feet towards the back of the car. These I did not take off because again there was another sensor with a very short lead (again) and in a much more difficult position.

I tried again to get the heat cage off from a different angle (from the oil filter side), but this time I took out the bolts holding the starter, and I was finally able to pull the heat cage off by pulling it towards the oil filter side. Whoever said in another post that the way to pull it was towards the exhaust manifold must have been smelling the exhaust fumes too long :^)

I took the starter to Advance Auto Parts to test, and the kid who helped me there told me that he helped a friend pull a starter on a Hyundai Sonata that he says is set up the same way. He ended up having to pull both the manifold exhaust bolts as well as the midsection bolts to get this silly cage off. My starter worked OK on the tester, but was smoking from behind the gear, which is not at all a good sign.

Tonight I will try to mount the new starter, and if the cage again proves a challenge I will probably slice off a section and remount it in two pieces. I have a lifetime warranty on the new starter, but with 127k miles on the car, I probably will not need to invoke it...without the complication from this stupid heat cage, this should be a fairly easy job.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
New starter in car.

Well, finally installed the new starter in car. Assumed that the heat shield would give problems, so attempted to install it with the starter bolts totally loose, and inserted the heat shield from the oil filter side , and after a little twisting and turning and pushing it went into place. The rest of the re-install went smooth until at the end, the shield bit back. Turns out that the starter shipped by Advance Auto Parts is an exact copy ,except that the holes for the small bolts that hold the shield, are tapped with a different thread than the original. I tried several bolts from my odds and ends collection, but none of them fit, so tomorrow I still have to call Advance Auto Support to figure out what thread I should be looking for.

A fitting last minute hassle to what has been one major PITA of a job, although this time it is not KIA's fault.
 

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Hey, Ray. Just checking to see how it went. I got my starter from AZ, also. I wound up taking it back. Believe it or not, Kia was about $35 cheaper.

As for the exhaust heat shield, the picture you posted matches my 04 exactly; I must be referring to it by the wrong term.

Since my last post I have had to replace the power steering pump, the power steering cooler (which leaked all of the fluid out causing the pump to fail), and discovered this evening that a brake line is leaking. If I can keep this thing repaired long enough I am going to get rid of it and never, EVER, buy a Kia again. What a POS!!!
 

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Changing My Starter

I just changed the starter on my 04 KIA Sedona with 188k miles. It's a little intimidating at first but it's actually not that hard.
First of all, for weeks I thought my battery was bad, but running it had over 14 volts and not running it never dropped below 12.7v. Then yesterday after it wouldn't start or take a jump. That's when I noticed smoke coming from the starter area. It would just barely turn the motor then sound like it was spinning free.
This is what you need to do.
Disconnect the battery.
Jack up both sides and get it up on stands.
Using a 10mm socket remove the plastic skid plate thing.
Now this is key... Don't even bother trying take off the heat shield yet. I tried long enough for all of us. The exhaust pipes must come down an inch or two. Locate the two 19mm nuts on each side of the motor, spray them with WD40 or something better if you have it. Now go inside, have a cup of coffee and relax.
Disconnect the O2 sensor, I think I used a 22mm open end wrench it was very easy to turn.
Remove the two 14mm bolts from the exhaust pipe mounting bracket.
Loosen and remove the nuts from the front exhaust pipe. Loosen the nuts on the rear exhaust all most all the way off but they can stay on. The pipes will drop down with a little bit of help from a rubber hammer.
Now it's easy to remove the Heat Shield. 3 10mm bolts.
Next disconnect the wires.
Remove the easily seen 14mm bolt on the bottom of the starter.
There is a 14mm nut on a long stud hiding on top and in the front of the starter.
It can not be seen, but you can reach it with your finger, just feel around for it.
Once you find it it's easy to get a socket on it but you have very little room to turn it. Just slowly work it out. That's it the starter will just slide right out.
After another coffee slide the new one in. and reverse the process.
The hardest part is paying the $187 for the new one at Auto Zone.
Oh yeah... The new one didn't come with the long mounting stud so it has to be removed from the old one. I didn't have any tools with me, but the Auto zone man changed it over for me. He used the double nut method, very easy.

I hope it helps someone. This forum has really helped me so Thanks every one.
 
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