So I've had my car almost a year now, and am loving it. HOWEVER. I used to compete in SQ Stereo comps with my old car, and the stock system does NOT cut it! So this weekend I began the journey to decent sound! It'll take a few weeks to get it all done, but will add to the thread as things are done.
Quick overview of system:
Source - stock head unit/bluetooth to DSP/AMP
AMP/DSP: Helix V8 DSP Mark 2
Tweeters/midrange: Tymphany NE65W-04 2.5 inch
Midwoofers: Scanspeak 16W/4434G00 6 inch
Sub: Dayton Audio DCS165-4 6.5inch
First step is to run the power wire for the amp. I went with 4 gauge - this system is for Sound Quality not extreme volume so will be plenty sufficient! I have read how difficult it is to run power cables so hopefully how I've done it can help out others!
I considered drilling a hole through the firewall, but in my search I found a cabin vent that I'll use instead. There is one on both sides of the car in exactly the same spot at the rear of the wheel wells, behind the inner guard. There are three screws at the back bottom, one of which is underneath the sill. The rest is held on with trim clips - use a fork shaped trim removal tool and they just pop out. Don't forget the four under the front lip area too.
Trim clips under front lip:
![Image]()
Cable run through cabin vent hole - the grommet is a 16mm (5/8 inch)
![Image]()
Same cable with split tube and cable tied to existing cable:
![Image]()
The cable runs to the front of the car, there is a big hole behind the headlight which comes into the engine bay right near the fusebox/air box. I ran it between the fuse box and battery, and under the negative terminal to a midi fuse holder. Then ran the hot side behind the battery and into the stock terminal cover.
You will need to bend the cable lug that goes to the terminal, but not QUITE 90 degrees:
![Image]()
and heat shrunk (shrinked?!
)
![Image]()
The fuse holder sits nicely on top of my battery, but I'm going to 3D print a little mount for it.
![Image]()
The kick panel, scuff panels and B Pillar trim all just unclip, and there is PLENTY of space to run the cable. The only trim piece with screws is the one at the rear under the seat (remove seat to get to screws) The smaller black cable you see is for the Helix control dial, which will be mounted in the center console somewhere.
![Image]()
To remove the rear seat to run into the boot, lift the front to unclip from the mounts, then there is a bolt between the base and backrest on each side (12mm). You also need to unplug the two small wiring harness plugs before taking out seat base.
![Image]()
I ran the cables behind the seat belt mount:
![Image]()
and into the trunk (Boot for us Aussies)
![Image]()
That is all for the moment! Next steps will be:
Cabling between OEM amp and Helix, 3D print fuse mount, and figure out where to put Helix control dial.
Quick overview of system:
Source - stock head unit/bluetooth to DSP/AMP
AMP/DSP: Helix V8 DSP Mark 2
Tweeters/midrange: Tymphany NE65W-04 2.5 inch
Midwoofers: Scanspeak 16W/4434G00 6 inch
Sub: Dayton Audio DCS165-4 6.5inch
First step is to run the power wire for the amp. I went with 4 gauge - this system is for Sound Quality not extreme volume so will be plenty sufficient! I have read how difficult it is to run power cables so hopefully how I've done it can help out others!
I considered drilling a hole through the firewall, but in my search I found a cabin vent that I'll use instead. There is one on both sides of the car in exactly the same spot at the rear of the wheel wells, behind the inner guard. There are three screws at the back bottom, one of which is underneath the sill. The rest is held on with trim clips - use a fork shaped trim removal tool and they just pop out. Don't forget the four under the front lip area too.
Trim clips under front lip:
Cable run through cabin vent hole - the grommet is a 16mm (5/8 inch)
Same cable with split tube and cable tied to existing cable:
The cable runs to the front of the car, there is a big hole behind the headlight which comes into the engine bay right near the fusebox/air box. I ran it between the fuse box and battery, and under the negative terminal to a midi fuse holder. Then ran the hot side behind the battery and into the stock terminal cover.
You will need to bend the cable lug that goes to the terminal, but not QUITE 90 degrees:
and heat shrunk (shrinked?!
)The fuse holder sits nicely on top of my battery, but I'm going to 3D print a little mount for it.
The kick panel, scuff panels and B Pillar trim all just unclip, and there is PLENTY of space to run the cable. The only trim piece with screws is the one at the rear under the seat (remove seat to get to screws) The smaller black cable you see is for the Helix control dial, which will be mounted in the center console somewhere.
To remove the rear seat to run into the boot, lift the front to unclip from the mounts, then there is a bolt between the base and backrest on each side (12mm). You also need to unplug the two small wiring harness plugs before taking out seat base.
I ran the cables behind the seat belt mount:
and into the trunk (Boot for us Aussies
)That is all for the moment! Next steps will be:
Cabling between OEM amp and Helix, 3D print fuse mount, and figure out where to put Helix control dial.
