Kia Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Recently purchased car for daughter with this as a known issue to repair. While the outer has leaked grease it is not yet showing signs of the clunking bad CV joint.

Can some of you that have either paid to have done or did it yourself give me your opinion on what you did?

Options

1. New boots, basically home reman ( anyone use EMPI boot kits?)
I have to admit not owning many front wheel drives I have never done a CV axle rebuild but it seems easy enough, any hints on what it take to remove the outer CV joint from axle shaft would be good to know. The main reason I am leaning toward this is that I know I have a right size part that is not causing any vibrations.

2. New axle installed with reman or new manufactured parts either at home or take to shop.

If you have bad or good experience with a particular brand name part that would be a plus.

I have spent a few hours and read all kinds of opinions based on all kinds of cars but not much directly on the spectra or spectra5.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,873 Posts
We have an 09 Spectra(automatic)...same car other than rear body design and trans. CV boots tearing are a common happening on any make vehicle that is FWD. Some axle designs are easier to disassemble than others, BUT With the prices of reman shaft/joints having dropped in price for most applications I suggest replacing the whole axle assemblies. I strongly recommend checking out rockauto.com, I use them for almost all my parts needs and have been very happy with them.
I also suggest you inspect the motor and trans. mounts, as I've read a few threads here of manual models having them go bad(my opinion from "spirited" driving).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
We have an 09 Spectra(automatic)...same car other than rear body design and trans. CV boots tearing are a common happening on any make vehicle that is FWD. Some axle designs are easier to disassemble than others, BUT With the prices of reman shaft/joints having dropped in price for most applications I suggest replacing the whole axle assemblies. I strongly recommend checking out rockauto.com, I use them for almost all my parts needs and have been very happy with them.
I also suggest you inspect the motor and trans. mounts, as I've read a few threads here of manual models having them go bad(my opinion from "spirited" driving).
Do you have any experience with a name brand of axle that held up well long term for you. I know the price is low on the parts due to the Chinese manufacturing of cv axles.

The reman axles are use all the original joint unless they show excessive wear from what I can read, so probably no better than me putting on boots as I have a known part now.

I know the oem on there now is smooth, and didn't want to do the job twice. Not so much a money thing but what is best thing short of buying the OEM at over $400
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,873 Posts
Do you have any experience with a name brand of axle that held up well long term for you. I know the price is low on the parts due to the Chinese manufacturing of cv axles.

The reman axles are use all the original joint unless they show excessive wear from what I can read, so probably no better than me putting on boots as I have a known part now.

I know the oem on there now is smooth, and didn't want to do the job twice. Not so much a money thing but what is best thing short of buying the OEM at over $400
I can not tell you what particular "brand" to buy thru them, as we have not needed to repair/replace even the boots on ours. I do KNOW that the work involved for most DIY'rs is much easier to replace the whole shaft assembly rather than doing the disassembly,cleaning and inspecting and then reassembly on your own.
In my opinion, you are "straining at gnats" in your thinking, as all parts are inspected and at worst scenario the actual shaft is reused. As for "continued "balance" of the assembly...I seriously doubt that could come into play to the level of your concern.
You asked for opinion/knowledge...I have offered mine. It is up to you to decide what to do...The car is in your care, not mine...Good Luck, and keep in touch as you and your daughter enjoy your Kia!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,854 Posts
Pretty straight forward replacing the CV/half axle shaft...If you don't mind the black grease and the mess a boot replacement is fine...Spray the lower strut with white or light color paint so alignment is OK after reassembling... The axle nut is a 32mm and a long breaker bar (on the ground and move the car to break it free or a 1/2" impact wrench (an electric one from Harbor Freight works well $39 with 20% off coupon) ...
The CV shaft will come loose with just prying it with a long screwdriver or pry bar right where it goes into the transmission and it will snap in with a few impacts from the end of the new CV shaft...

Be sure to know if you have a manual or automatic transmission, ABS or normal brakes, and also the date of manufacture (on the driver door sill) as this should guarantee the proper axle... Check the splines on the transmission end to make sure that they match...

I have replaced struts on my Spectras and this requires just about the same procedure...
Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Pretty straight forward replacing the CV/half axle shaft...If you don't mind the black grease and the mess a boot replacement is fine...Spray the lower strut with white or light color paint so alignment is OK after reassembling... The axle nut is a 32mm and a long breaker bar (on the ground and move the car to break it free or a 1/2" impact wrench (an electric one from Harbor Freight works well $39 with 20% off coupon) ...
The CV shaft will come loose with just prying it with a long screwdriver or pry bar right where it goes into the transmission and it will snap in with a few impacts from the end of the new CV shaft...

Be sure to know if you have a manual or automatic transmission, ABS or normal brakes, and also the date of manufacture (on the driver door sill) as this should guarantee the proper axle... Check the splines on the transmission end to make sure that they match...

I have replaced struts on my Spectras and this requires just about the same procedure...
Dave
Thank for the info, sounds like it shouldn't be too hard. I have the impact tools.

Do you have a good step by step that is how you do yours? I was reading a few different articles on what to remove in relation to strut, and ball joint.....

I also wanted to have a new trans side seal on hand, do you always change them?

I ordered a new axle online was supposed to be an FEQ, however when I opened to examine I see a GSP stamp on the boot band, and on one end the boot band clamp isn't on straight.

Keep reading bad reviews on the new axles having vibrations so maybe I should be considering getting an OEM boot set and doing a rebuild. More work and time as well as money, but wonder if better to keep the OEM axle.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,854 Posts
I jack up the car and support it on stands I then remove the brake caliper/pads and disconnect the ABS sensor (if you have one) You will need a 32mm socket for the axle nut... Remove the nut and reinstall it long enough to tap on the axle shaft.. Remove the nut...then you remove the two bolts on the bottom of the shock/strut and tap the spindle away from the strut... this should give you access to the half shaft/ CV axle... Fit a large flat blade screwdriver or pry bar right where the axle goes into the transmission and pry the axle away from the tranny... It may take a few tries... There is a circular ring that has to be compressed to release the axle...You will understand what I'm saying when the axle is out... The axle assembly is pretty short and balance should not be an issue... The number of splines on both ends is much more critical... If you wish to rebuild the old shaft and it hasn't started making noise then replacing the boots may make sense to you but be aware it IS a very messy job... The only thing I can remember about the job was it was hard to get the upper spindle back on the two strut bolts and a second person forcing the spindle down would be a welcome help... When you get them close together put a screwdriver shaft into the lower hole and use it to align the upper blot hole and inset the upper bolt...Then the lower bolt will be much easier to align... Reverse the above steps to reassemble the car...
Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,873 Posts
When I did the front hub bearings (hub still on the car), I just removed the lower ball joint nut and popped the stud from the knuckle and swung the whole strut assembly out of the way and had plenty of clearance to slide out the axle shaft at both ends in the manner that Daves Spectra described,after removing brake caliper/rotor. Since I was doing the job one side at a time, I only jacked up and and used jack stands for for that side, kept trans lube loss to a minimum. I also turned the wheel full opposite of the side I was working on, worked quite well for me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I jack up the car and support it on stands I then remove the brake caliper/pads and disconnect the ABS sensor (if you have one) You will need a 32mm socket for the axle nut... Remove the nut and reinstall it long enough to tap on the axle shaft.. Remove the nut...then you remove the two bolts on the bottom of the shock/strut and tap the spindle away from the strut... this should give you access to the half shaft/ CV axle... Fit a large flat blade screwdriver or pry bar right where the axle goes into the transmission and pry the axle away from the tranny... It may take a few tries... There is a circular ring that has to be compressed to release the axle...You will understand what I'm saying when the axle is out... The axle assembly is pretty short and balance should not be an issue... The number of splines on both ends is much more critical... If you wish to rebuild the old shaft and it hasn't started making noise then replacing the boots may make sense to you but be aware it IS a very messy job... The only thing I can remember about the job was it was hard to get the upper spindle back on the two strut bolts and a second person forcing the spindle down would be a welcome help... When you get them close together put a screwdriver shaft into the lower hole and use it to align the upper blot hole and inset the upper bolt...Then the lower bolt will be much easier to align... Reverse the above steps to reassemble the car...
Dave
When I did the front hub bearings (hub still on the car), I just removed the lower ball joint nut and popped the stud from the knuckle and swung the whole strut assembly out of the way and had plenty of clearance to slide out the axle shaft at both ends in the manner that Daves Spectra described,after removing brake caliper/rotor. Since I was doing the job one side at a time, I only jacked up and and used jack stands for for that side, kept trans lube loss to a minimum. I also turned the wheel full opposite of the side I was working on, worked quite well for me.
Okay to confirm this is why I guess I have been some what confused there is two ways to approach axle removal.

The primary way Dave does it is to separate the strut, that is all it take to swing out of the way for axle removal.

The primary way Mia does it is to separate the lower ball joint to swing out of the way for axle removal.

My initial guess is the strut is easy enough to separate and less likely to cause damage to anything else.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,873 Posts
Okay to confirm this is why I guess I have been some what confused there is two ways to approach axle removal.

The primary way Dave does it is to separate the strut, that is all it take to swing out of the way for axle removal.

The primary way Mia does it is to separate the lower ball joint to swing out of the way for axle removal.

My initial guess is the strut is easy enough to separate and less likely to cause damage to anything else.
YES, there is more than one way to "skin a cat"! It is no skin off my nose on what way you decide to work on your Kia. Personally I like the way I did mine, the "risks" are no different, as th ball joint and the outer joint will be subjected to extreme angles the way DaveSpectra explained too. A rap with a hammer to the side of the knuckle near the ball joint stud will release the wedge fit, once the nut is removed and the same pry bar (or large screwdriver) used to pop the inner joint free can be also used to bring down the lower control arm end so the ball joint stud clears the knuckle. I've done many many FWD's for similar work and I've found this easiest for me...Do as you wish, and enjoy the experience doing it. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
YES, there is more than one way to "skin a cat"! It is no skin off my nose on what way you decide to work on your Kia. Personally I like the way I did mine, the "risks" are no different, as th ball joint and the outer joint will be subjected to extreme angles the way DaveSpectra explained too. A rap with a hammer to the side of the knuckle near the ball joint stud will release the wedge fit, once the nut is removed and the same pry bar (or large screwdriver) used to pop the inner joint free can be also used to bring down the lower control arm end so the ball joint stud clears the knuckle. I've done many many FWD's for similar work and I've found this easiest for me...Do as you wish, and enjoy the experience doing it. :)
Hey I am total up for instruction, very little experience with FWD here. Thanks for the advice
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,854 Posts
See this thread and my response to what he has been trying...
https://www.kia-forums.com/kia-carnival-sedona-2006/337464-front-strut-replacement-not-lining-up.html

Re-installing the upper bolt AFTER getting the lower bolt hole aligned with something like a proper fitting tapered center punch that will center both lower holes... Then push on the spindle and the upper hole will be able to line up for a bolt/nut... then remove the center punch from the lower hole and install it's bolt/nut...
As MiaKia 09 said it's a matter of choice but I don't like fooling around with trying to remove the lower ball joint... I have tried the "hit the side of the spindle" method after fighting with a frozen bolt/nut that holds the ball joint in place and it seamed to me it was easier to use the method I suggested...but... to each their own :)
Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
See this thread and my response to what he has been trying...
https://www.kia-forums.com/kia-carnival-sedona-2006/337464-front-strut-replacement-not-lining-up.html

Re-installing the upper bolt AFTER getting the lower bolt hole aligned with something like a proper fitting tapered center punch that will center both lower holes... Then push on the spindle and the upper hole will be able to line up for a bolt/nut... then remove the center punch from the lower hole and install it's bolt/nut...
As MiaKia 09 said it's a matter of choice but I don't like fooling around with trying to remove the lower ball joint... I have tried the "hit the side of the spindle" method after fighting with a frozen bolt/nut that holds the ball joint in place and it seamed to me it was easier to use the method I suggested...but... to each their own :)
Dave
Okay went with Dave's approach to swap axle today with my daughters help. Found it fairly easy job for my first CV axle, but have to say I have some 40 years of doing maintenance on my cars and trucks and have done things like changed front end bushing on my P38 Chevy chasis on the motorhome years back so no too scared to tackle the job. It was great to have feedback and other forum posts to read to get the steps down before starting.

Here is what I did:

Used floor jack to lift using frame area just to rear of the front tire, behind the lower A arm area. Once up I put a jack stand in just to rear of jack.
Using an impact it was no issue to remove tire.
Remove cotter pin on axle nut, and had brake applied then used impact to remove nut. With nut on end of the axle using a large plastic dead head hammer from HF I already had on had, easily started to move, removed but followed with small deep socket to drive axle further back.
Then ratchet to remove the two bolts for the abs placing aside to be sure not to cause damage.
Pulled two U shaped slide clamps to allow brake line to be loose from strut, for extra slack.
Using impact pulled nut on top of swaybar link. Place floor jack under lower A-arm just behind the lower ball joint raised A arm until it easy to remove swaybar link.
Using impact pulled both nuts on strut to knuckle. Floor jack adjustment to find slack, lowering to remove both bolts from strut. When second bolt is pulled the knuckle will move. Swing knuckle rearward to allow axle spline to be pulled out from rear of knuckle.
Used long tie strap to hold knuckle up going through top knuckle to strut hole to strut to keep from damaging lower ball joint.
Two large screw drivers between inner CV joint and transmission, was able to pop axle loose. With helper at outside CV joint I slowly removed axle from transmission being sure not to put pressure on the seal as removed the axle from car.
Replaced with new axle in reverse order, with these extras items to pay attention to.

After axle laying in place but not yet stabbed into transmission, spread light bearing grease on end of spline. I did it this way to be sure not to pickup any grit with a pre-greased axle touching anything on the way in.
Placed the axle in the trans and made sure splines where engage by trying to turn. Using my dead blow plastic hammer lightly tapped axle at nut end and after a few taps I heard it pop in.
Then greased outer CV spline and inserted into knuckle.
Only thing was after installing axle nut was with center cap out of wheel put wheel on lower car and torqued axle nut, raised removed wheel inserted cotter pin and put wheel back on.

Now as to axle what I bought, was sold as a FEQ branded box (First Equipment Quality I think is a WorldPac label and most expensive of the axles I found available aftermarket) , but the stainless boot bands were stamped with GSP logo, obviously made by GPS. NCV15506 was on the box. While shopping this was the suggested model for the car by both local and several internet stores. I found the same NCV number also used on autoparts store brand. I went with FEQ when ordering thinking all so cheap that if any quality upgrade could be had for another $10-15 bucks it would be worth it. When confronted the online company price matched to the lower priced GSP label product.

What I found different on the axle was that the distance on the outside CV joint spline and thread were a longer than OEM by about 3/8 inch. The difference was the spline area was longer, this caused an issue that when the nut was torqued the hole for the cotter pin was completely outside of the nut slots. I had to add an large flat washer robbed from one of my trailer hitch balls since no local parts store had anything that large, placed on first behind the OEM lock washer allowed the cotter pin to be properly in a slot on the axle nut so it could not loosen.

Final diagnosis of why the outer CV joint leaked grease was there were two small cuts in the boot just behind the larger or more outer band on the axle boot. My guess is previous owner must have ran over some type of road debris or from previous mechanical work. Axle still felt tight and my guess is that it could be rebuilt with boot kit, however OEM boot kit was almost twice the price of the all new replacement axle. We are holding on to the old axle for a while just in case.

Car test drove to 75 mph smooth, daughter says had slight vibration before but I think it was most likely the grease and road grime stuck to back of wheel causing a slight out of balance as we had to use a paint stick to scrape it off before cleaning.

Thanks for all the advice from those who left replies, and we have our fingers crossed it stays smooth, and holds up for the rest of our ownership.

Note: While I used an impact to do some of the work it could have been completed with a breaker bar, or possibly even a short cheater pipe on a 1/2 inch socket.

Daughter now 24 years old really likes the car, getting 30 mpg to and from work combined highway and city driving and is happy with our first KIA in the family. This 80K mile 2006 was taken very good care of by original owner and the interior has held up very well, looking at it you would only think maybe 3-4 years old.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top