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2006 Sorento
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So, 2006 Sorento 2WD auto. Needed a front U-joint finally after 205K miles. Being I like to do all my own work I took on the challenge, and in the process I have tips and info for others, as there's not enough fresh stuff in my opinion. Its all old, and searching it up is a pain.

The hard part is finding the U-joint at a decent price, under the correct part number. Parts stores DO NOT (at the time of this post) carry the rear wheel drive U-joint, only the 4WD u-joints. The correct PN for me is 49100 3E100, the manual number is 49598 3E100. Rockauto carries the manual PN, but not the auto. So I ordered the manual one up because couldnt find the correct one from the other number. The only notable differences from my stock from factory u-joint and the one I ordered is the zirc fitting location, and the seals are on the outside, as opposed to the OE seems like theres a piece with a seal seated into the lip on the cap, and the seal cant go anywhere that way. But the part fits just fine for me.

Another observation in difference is that the main body of the u-joint is sized differently to accomodate the different seal designs. Thats probably why this manual part number is fitting into my automatic driveshaft just fine.

So, once I got the part in, I now have the u-joint manufacturer's PN. Kojin PN:kuj-030. I found this part on ebay for 17.90 after finding that number.... its $35 from rockauto, and from what I've read here the dealship wants $100+. What a mark up, right?

Now, on to the tips I guess. Good ol driveshat 31 pdf, the TSB from kia on how to change the u-joints out, while good, not very detailed. This is natural though, you're supposed to have trained mechanic reading that, not a DIY guy like me. He already knows a great tip to help himself.

He already knows a press is gonna make his life easier, and the job waaaaaaay faster. You can pick up a ball joint press from harbor frieght for under $100, or you can rent one at the parts store. I'm telling you this is almost necessary. You CAN do it with a hammer, a socket, and some experience... you'll still spened an hour beating eveything out, and be stupid careful putting it back together. You're more likely to knock the needle bearings out of place, and destroying your brand new part. A press does the same job with less risk, in 20 mins. Your choice I guess.

Keep in mind, you're not doing this job (i.e. just one joint like I did) with the driveshaft still in the vehicle. I mulled around the idea myself, but its just not feasible. You're going to pull the DS. Make sure you chock your wheels and use a paint pen to draw lines on the differential flange, and transmission tail. You absolutely should not move the vehicle once the DS is out, and you must install the DS the way it came out, lining up your marks. Also mark the flanges of the u-joint you are replacing. If you dont, you now need to go to the driveshaft shop, and have it balanced again. Wasted money, the paint pen is much cheaper.

My dumbass parked my Sorento half hanging out the garage, and a lot of these tips and info are coming from doing WRONG trying to be cheap, even though I knew what I should have done. So while I wait on the next u-joint to come in, I cant close my garage door for days. What a missed foresight there.... thank god I got a good neighborhood. Nor can I drive anywhere. Dont be like me. Lol

I'm kinda skinny so I was able to slide under the truck to pull all the bolts needed to remove the driveshaft, but I was still rubbing my chest up against the fuel tank, and the muffler. If youre a big guy, you're gonna wanna jack it up and set some jackstands.

Having access to a vice would have been nice, but I did not have the option. If you have the option, DO NOT place the body of the DS into the vice to hold it. Clamp it by the flanges. The DS is not meant to take that kind of force, it is designed to be stronger against twisting(torque).

You'll need a grease gun to grease the u-joint after you install it. Use high temp wheel bearing grease. $17 for the grease gun, $5 for the grease at harbor freight. Plus you now get to grease your u-joints periodically, making them last longer. I would say when you need brake pads is a good interval to slide up under there and hit em with some fresh grease. Dont forget the slip yoke that connects the 2 pieces of the DS. It could use some grease too.

Feel free to add any additional tips below.
 

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06 Kia Sorento LX
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So, 2006 Sorento 2WD auto. Needed a front U-joint finally after 205K miles. Being I like to do all my own work I took on the challenge, and in the process I have tips and info for others, as there's not enough fresh stuff in my opinion. Its all old, and searching it up is a pain.

The hard part is finding the U-joint at a decent price, under the correct part number. Parts stores DO NOT (at the time of this post) carry the rear wheel drive U-joint, only the 4WD u-joints. The correct PN for me is 49100 3E100, the manual number is 49598 3E100. Rockauto carries the manual PN, but not the auto. So I ordered the manual one up because couldnt find the correct one from the other number. The only notable differences from my stock from factory u-joint and the one I ordered is the zirc fitting location, and the seals are on the outside, as opposed to the OE seems like theres a piece with a seal seated into the lip on the cap, and the seal cant go anywhere that way. But the part fits just fine for me.

Another observation in difference is that the main body of the u-joint is sized differently to accomodate the different seal designs. Thats probably why this manual part number is fitting into my automatic driveshaft just fine.

So, once I got the part in, I now have the u-joint manufacturer's PN. Kojin PN:kuj-030. I found this part on ebay for 17.90 after finding that number.... its $35 from rockauto, and from what I've read here the dealship wants $100+. What a mark up, right?

Now, on to the tips I guess. Good ol driveshat 31 pdf, the TSB from kia on how to change the u-joints out, while good, not very detailed. This is natural though, you're supposed to have trained mechanic reading that, not a DIY guy like me. He already knows a great tip to help himself.

He already knows a press is gonna make his life easier, and the job waaaaaaay faster. You can pick up a ball joint press from harbor frieght for under $100, or you can rent one at the parts store. I'm telling you this is almost necessary. You CAN do it with a hammer, a socket, and some experience... you'll still spened an hour beating eveything out, and be stupid careful putting it back together. You're more likely to knock the needle bearings out of place, and destroying your brand new part. A press does the same job with less risk, in 20 mins. Your choice I guess.

Keep in mind, you're not doing this job (i.e. just one joint like I did) with the driveshaft still in the vehicle. I mulled around the idea myself, but its just not feasible. You're going to pull the DS. Make sure you chock your wheels and use a paint pen to draw lines on the differential flange, and transmission tail. You absolutely should not move the vehicle once the DS is out, and you must install the DS the way it came out, lining up your marks. Also mark the flanges of the u-joint you are replacing. If you dont, you now need to go to the driveshaft shop, and have it balanced again. Wasted money, the paint pen is much cheaper.

My dumbass parked my Sorento half hanging out the garage, and a lot of these tips and info are coming from doing WRONG trying to be cheap, even though I knew what I should have done. So while I wait on the next u-joint to come in, I cant close my garage door for days. What a missed foresight there.... thank god I got a good neighborhood. Nor can I drive anywhere. Dont be like me. Lol

I'm kinda skinny so I was able to slide under the truck to pull all the bolts needed to remove the driveshaft, but I was still rubbing my chest up against the fuel tank, and the muffler. If youre a big guy, you're gonna wanna jack it up and set some jackstands.

Having access to a vice would have been nice, but I did not have the option. If you have the option, DO NOT place the body of the DS into the vice to hold it. Clamp it by the flanges. The DS is not meant to take that kind of force, it is designed to be stronger against twisting(torque).

You'll need a grease gun to grease the u-joint after you install it. Use high temp wheel bearing grease. $17 for the grease gun, $5 for the grease at harbor freight. Plus you now get to grease your u-joints periodically, making them last longer. I would say when you need brake pads is a good interval to slide up under there and hit em with some fresh grease. Dont forget the slip yoke that connects the 2 pieces of the DS. It could use some grease too.

Feel free to add any additional tips below.
Thanks for the heads up. I have a 2006 Sorento and have spent the last 3-4 days trying to find a u joint that would work with absolutely no luck. Typed in that part number and I be damn the dimensions were the same.
28 x 44 so I ordered the part and it should get here tomorrow so l can finish this job.
So thank you for the help, next time I'm trying this forum first could have saved me 3 days and about 20 miles.
 

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I now drive a 2003 S-10 Had an 03 LX 3.5 Sorento
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2,463 Posts
Definitely check the Driveshaft Support Bearing while you are at it.
 

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06 Kia Sorento LX
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Definitely check the Driveshaft Support Bearing while you are at it.
[/QUOTE
Absolutely, in fact that was the main thing I was doing. After 16 years (have a 06) there was zero rubber left in the bearing. However when I was taking off the u joint I lost some rollers and thought I was screwed and was going to have to buy a whole drive shaft. This tip/trick saved me a good 700 bucks. Got the part today, used the bench vise and some scrap 1/8 inch aluminum and it pressed right together.
 

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2019 Kia Sportage. SX with AWD. 2.0L Direct Injected Turbocharged & Intercooled Gas.
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935 Posts
Nice write up! Thanks for sharing!
I always put chalk marks on drive shafts and connecting flanges prior to disable. This takes balance issues out of the repair equation.
 
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