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Shifter stuck in park

61909 Views 33 Replies 15 Participants Last post by  halrandyw
Tonight the Sorento would not shift out of park, I had to press shift release button to get it in drive.

Any suggestions on the fix?

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Could be related to the switch that detects when your foot is on the brake pedal.
Maybe so, the brake lights are working though.

Thanks for your reply.

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If it's still as it was before, there are TWO individual switches down there being mechanically actuated in parallel. Consequently, it is possible to have brake lights with no ability to start or move the shifter, or the other way around.
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I'll have to look down at the pedal and check on it.


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Correct, two different switches. I had to get my 2011 towed when this happened - there was a TSB but not a recall..
I only see one actual switch on the pedal arm. I will do some more research.

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Looks like one switch, but check the number of wires. More than 2? Previously, there were two switches, stacked side by side into one package.
Same problem

I only see one actual switch on the pedal arm. I will do some more research.

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Hi Nettles516. Were you able to figure out the problem? I'm having the same issue with my 2016 Kia Sorento
Please, FIRST check the brake light switch down at the pedal. This specific problem used to be frequent with Kia and Hyundai vehicles. Half of the switch works the lights, the other half the inhibition of start/shift when it thinks there's no foot on the pedal.
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Sorry, there is one switch on the pedal, that must operate two functions on it. My problem turned out to be the computer wasn’t allowing the shifter to unlock. They had to replace the computer.




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No reason to be sorry. There aren't many people who bothered with this sort of thing for a living.

There's one switch assembly that you can SEE. Internally, there are two separate switches operating in parallel, and FOUR wires (two for each switch). It's called a DPST (double pole single throw) switch.

If the side that controls the shift lock goes bad, you're stuck, but your brake lights work.
If the switches are good, but the 'button' that actuates them gets stuck and doesn't release when the pedal is pressed, you have no brake lights and you're stuck.
If the switch is loose in the bracket, your brake lights might be on all the time, but you won't be stuck.

Sorry to hear that your electronics were indeed at fault. That gets a lot more expensive. For others, be sure to check the (cheap) switch issue first.

Tossing in a wiring diagram that shows the DPST switch.

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Any idea what the cost of replacing the computer for this repair is if outside of warranty?
Luckily I was just in warranty, so not sure.

I definitely did the brake pedal switch first also, but it didn’t fix mine.


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Good thing for the warranty period, Nettles. Glad you're not out a bunch of $. The switch issue was so common they issued recalls for it.

What will be odd is if this turns out to be a common weak spot. Why problems with just that one port on the input of the controller, I wonder? Nothing else seems to be going south, and there's a lot of other sensor inputs there.
Lots of strange electrical gremlins seem to happen. I have been on multiple auto and PCM/ECM tunning forums for far to many years. I have never seen a defective PCM or ECM. This is a first for me.

As a sidebar .. On my 2015 SX model with 3.3 engine the ECM monitors the two (+12v and 0V) outputs of the brake switch depression, with brake on and also w/brake off. If they are the same voltage DTC P0504 is set. P0504 does NOT set the MIL indicator and requires a scanner to see the fault. Many DTC's are year and model dependent, they are not part of the standard listed ODB2 codes, so not all scanners will list or define the reason code accurately.
If the actuator sticks, you don't even have a differential problem to 'discover'. It was a right bugger for prior generations, hence the recall.
Just went through this. At 1st they diagnosed a faulty shift solenoid, they ordered the part, replaced it only to find it was the BCM that was the issue.
Took almost 2 weeks to get a new BCM (back ordered from Korea apparently). Part came in Monday and was installed yesterday. Everything seems to be running well now. It was all covered under warranty but I did do a little googling and came up with ~$400 for the BCM, no idea what the book time is on that replacement.
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I'm wondering if this is becoming a more common problem on Kia's of a certain age? I have been going through this as well. Things locked up a week ago, dealer said faulty solenoid which they did not have in stock. Took 2 days to get & replace solenoid. That did not work and all other tests failed so they went to central Kia support who instructed them to test the BCM.

Finally, today after one full week of waiting they advise it is the BCM but - it could take 4+ weeks to get the replacement as there are none in North America!!! Good thing this under warranty but even so, no customer should be without their vehicle for a month for something as simple as shift lock!!!
This just happened to me as well on my 2016 Sorento. I'm no longer under warranty (just my 100K, I'm at about 68K) so not covered. They are having to order the BCM and also a new shifter as the screwdriver that we used to put in the small lock area so we could drive it to the dealership ended up causing damage to some gasket and now the whole shifter has to be replaced. So the parts and labor are going to end up being $1800 which seems ridiculous.
Mine also went out last week. I have ~67k miles on mine and the charge was about $900 for the BCM replacement. I reached out to Kia via Twitter and they are covering half the cost at least. I'd suggest going that route. It can't hurt.
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