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My sedona regularly displays the Engine Management 'Check' light on the dash when towing a Caravan. When I have the system checked by kia, there is nothing recorded on the kia diagnostic equipment and no problems found. I just wonder if anyone else has experieced this and if it is just a feature of the sedona?
 

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Having a guess here......
As you only get this happen when towing a caravan, i wonder if your secondary electrics are wired a bit wrongly?
Could cause charge/batt volts to go below ECU threshold, causing a check engine light.
 

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KIA's 2000 Carnival, 2008 Magentis, 2005 Optima
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Hi I have played with cars with engine management systems for some years now and my hunch is that you need a new fuel filter.
The current one is probably partially blocked causing lean mixtures when under hi loads such as towing. The lean mixtures measured by the O2 sensor is relayed to the ECM which subsequently runs out of control authority to compensate for the lean mixture and assumes there is a EM fault. ;)
 

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2003 Kia Sorento
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Since the Sedona is OBD-II equipped, the code would be stored whether the light is on or off. I believe if the problem "fixes itself" and no malfunction is detected, the code will eventually clear itself. I'm pretty sure you have to go through 50 driving cycles before that happens. Also, if you disconnect the battery the code will be cleared.

I agree with Classic boy though, it sounds like the engine is starving for fuel under a load.
 

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Have you tried draining off the seperator off the bottom of the diesel filter.........b**tard isn't the word - in the end I unbolted the housing off the wing.
Point two anyone know what the filter equvilant is because im too mean to buy a kia filter at 30 + pound :liebe011:
 

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I meant to add that in the handbook it does say about the filter drain bringing up the light, it also says change the filter at 20k too but thats not what my dealer was saying ?
 

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Filter is a Delphi unit, as it's a Delphi injection system on the diesels, plenty of other cars use it, try a motor factors such as Partco.
 

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Originally posted by eco@Aug 11 2005, 03:46 PM
Have you tried draining off the seperator off the bottom of the diesel filter.........b**tard isn't the word - in the end I unbolted the housing off the wing.
Point two anyone know what the filter equvilant is because im too mean to buy a kia filter at 30 + pound :liebe011:
Hello Eco,

Partco 020 8743-3742 nearest branch to me quoted me £17-00, pads and shoes were a good price to.

Stockwell Motors 020 7582-3666 was a tad more exspensive

Motorbitz if there is an outlet your way.
Seacam
 

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2001 Kia Sedona 2.9 CRDi SE & 2004 Accord 2.2I-CDTI Exec
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Mines due a service,

I call a motor spares place near where Iwork in Leeds ( Beeston Motor Spares.....yep Beeston...where the suicide bombers lived )

Asked for a price for air , oil & fuel filters and they said £25 quid the lot.

The main reason I replied to this post though is the qty of oil this 2.9 diesel takes is pretty big, its 7.4 ltrs so that means two tubs !!!!

Anyway, because I also run another diesel and I use only Millers XFD full synthetic oil, I normally pay £24.99 from a local car parts place. Both cars are due a service so that would mean £75 on oil.

I contacted Millers Oil direct as they are in Brighouse which I pass on my way home every night. They can supply me a 5 gal ( 25ltr ) tub for £85. So I think thats the route I'll take.....
 

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Hello ebod,

There is an other guy on another forum called "Elat", he lives near my neck of the woods hence the numbers.

£25 the whole lot, I'd love to know the brand names.

You might be interested in this which is copied and quoted exactly from another site, it kinda makes sense to me, what do you think.

"Over the years we have had the opportunity to test various engine oils on many vehicles.
Fully synthetic oils are ‘pushed’ as the ultimate choice but we beg to differ.
Fully synthetic oils are too ‘thin’, this results in oil leaking past valve stem seals and past turbo seals resulting in blue smoke at start up and oil in inlet/boost pipes.
We personally use and advise that a semi-synthetic oil is used with a rating of either 10/40 or 15/40, these oils are more viscous and are less likely to weep past seals. These oils also deaden engine ‘tapping and ticking’ sounds.
We have yet to decide the best oil, but will add this info at a later date".


Millars, I've never come across that brand.
Seacam
 

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2001 Kia Sedona 2.9 CRDi SE & 2004 Accord 2.2I-CDTI Exec
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That quote is more related to petrol turbos IMO. The issue about stem seals etc is becuase petrol engines run hotter.

My chice of sticking with full synth oil is preserving the turbo.

I know of two individual both with 51 plate lagunas that have had turbo failures o to being too hard on their cars when cold.


There are many people who probablt have a whole specrum of opinions on this, but all I can say is my fisrt diesel was an Audi 80TDI which I sold in perfect condition with 260000 miles on it. May 99 Laguna is running sweet at 162000.

btw the site for millers is

http://www.millersoils.net/ :thumbsup:
 

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Try france for the fully synthetic - loads of choice. Personally I use mobil 1 @35 euros. It normally does about 6 litres at a service.

Cheers for the filter info guys!!!! I love you all :wub:
 

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I own 2 turbo petrol cars..
I would not use anything but fully synthetic oil in them, only time oil will weep past is when somethings worn out.
Low vicous oil is essential for cold start, and rapid warm up to protect the engines components. anything that says otherwise is a litre short of a gallon of mobil1 :D
 
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