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Discussion Starter #1
Need to replace rear roll mount Sedona 03, 3.5L.
Suggestions as to access and special tools?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hello Glycine4,
As luck would have it, just finished replacing the front and rear engine roll mounts. Engine has 4 mounts: driver side, passenger side, front roll, rear roll. All easy to access except rear roll mount. Gained access by removing plenum, both splash guards (big one under engine and small one under belts). Accessed the rear mount engine bolt (bolt going thru rubber insert) and frame bolts (to assist in socket placement) under vehicle. Actual remove and install of frame bolts from engine bay behind plenum.
Needed wrench, ratchet/sockets (standard and deep), 24 inch extension, universal joint, breaker bar, long pipe to extend breaker bar leverage.
Positioned extension/univ/socket behind plenum down to the two roll mount bolts. Needed to go under to maneuver socket on top of bolt heads. Then back up to break torque and remove bolts.
Considered lowering engine cradle but to much work and supports getting the way. Now I do more maintenance. Check plugs, heater hoses, MAF, throttle body, etc. and maybe even some cleaning. Will attempt to post pic of new and old mount.
Thanks for your inquiry.
 

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Hello Glycine4,
As luck would have it, just finished replacing the front and rear engine roll mounts. Engine has 4 mounts: driver side, passenger side, front roll, rear roll. All easy to access except rear roll mount. Gained access by removing plenum, both splash guards (big one under engine and small one under belts). Accessed the rear mount engine bolt (bolt going thru rubber insert) and frame bolts (to assist in socket placement) under vehicle. Actual remove and install of frame bolts from engine bay behind plenum.
Needed wrench, ratchet/sockets (standard and deep), 24 inch extension, universal joint, breaker bar, long pipe to extend breaker bar leverage.
Positioned extension/univ/socket behind plenum down to the two roll mount bolts. Needed to go under to maneuver socket on top of bolt heads. Then back up to break torque and remove bolts.
Considered lowering engine cradle but to much work and supports getting the way. Now I do more maintenance. Check plugs, heater hoses, MAF, throttle body, etc. and maybe even some cleaning. Will attempt to post pic of new and old mount.
Thanks for your inquiry.
Just a suggestion.

Most people (even on Rockauto) they are called Engine (or Motor) mounts. And a transmission mounts. That would have help one discern what you were saying. I never read anyone say roll mount. Not criticizing you, just what it is.

It's just that I could have just told you what to do if I knew what you were saying.

Yes, the rear engine mount, you didn't need to take the plenum off.

What I did was, I took the driver side wheel off, and take off the splash guard. Then, take 1/2 socket, U-joint, 1/2 extensions and 1/2 breaker bar and broke the side way bold (really tight) through the drivers side. You can see it right through there. Don't use 3/8 extensions, I broke the extensions when doing it.

I then broke the vertical bolts from the top behind the plenum. And went under to loosen them. It's not very difficult, it's just tough due to the torque on them and manuevering.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You're right. Looking back, Roll Mount by itself may not be enough. Rear engine Roll Mount would have worked probably. "Roll mount" not standard reference but not to uncommon either. My research into the problem found "roll" used frequently. sample:
"In conventional four-point mounting systems, an engine mount and a transmission mount support most of the load of the power train. The engine and transmission mounts, which serve as the two main mounts, are placed over the power train's principle axis of inertia to improve Noise, Vibration, and Harshness (NVH) levels. The front and rear portions of the power train are further supported by roll mounts, providing two additional support points, to control the vehicle's roll displacement. "
I did remove driver tire and splash guard but found it easier to go under with wrenches for the "horizontal bolt". I removed Plenum to give myself as much room as I could and to check plugs. Yes, 1/2 drive tools needed, break away torque very high. Needed long metal fence pole on breaker bar to loosen "vertical" bolts. Could not do it without pole!
Thanks for your help. You confirmed what I discovered the hard way. Other suggestions involved lowering engine cradle. No thanks.
Glad to report all went well and am now checking plugs/wires.
 

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You're right. Looking back, Roll Mount by itself may not be enough. Rear engine Roll Mount would have worked probably. "Roll mount" not standard reference but not to uncommon either. My research into the problem found "roll" used frequently. sample:
"In conventional four-point mounting systems, an engine mount and a transmission mount support most of the load of the power train. The engine and transmission mounts, which serve as the two main mounts, are placed over the power train's principle axis of inertia to improve Noise, Vibration, and Harshness (NVH) levels. The front and rear portions of the power train are further supported by roll mounts, providing two additional support points, to control the vehicle's roll displacement. "
I did remove driver tire and splash guard but found it easier to go under with wrenches for the "horizontal bolt". I removed Plenum to give myself as much room as I could and to check plugs. Yes, 1/2 drive tools needed, break away torque very high. Needed long metal fence pole on breaker bar to loosen "vertical" bolts. Could not do it without pole!
Thanks for your help. You confirmed what I discovered the hard way. Other suggestions involved lowering engine cradle. No thanks.
Glad to report all went well and am now checking plugs/wires.
If you are doing the rear (firewall) spark plugs, I highly highly recommend doing the valve gasket on the rear valve cover. If your mileage is high, the gasket will get brittle and leak oil back and drip to exhaust causing fumes to come up by firewall. And you will also loose engine oil.
 

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You're right. Looking back, Roll Mount by itself may not be enough. Rear engine Roll Mount would have worked probably. "Roll mount" not standard reference but not to uncommon either. My research into the problem found "roll" used frequently. sample:
"In conventional four-point mounting systems, an engine mount and a transmission mount support most of the load of the power train. The engine and transmission mounts, which serve as the two main mounts, are placed over the power train's principle axis of inertia to improve Noise, Vibration, and Harshness (NVH) levels. The front and rear portions of the power train are further supported by roll mounts, providing two additional support points, to control the vehicle's roll displacement. "
I did remove driver tire and splash guard but found it easier to go under with wrenches for the "horizontal bolt". I removed Plenum to give myself as much room as I could and to check plugs. Yes, 1/2 drive tools needed, break away torque very high. Needed long metal fence pole on breaker bar to loosen "vertical" bolts. Could not do it without pole!
Thanks for your help. You confirmed what I discovered the hard way. Other suggestions involved lowering engine cradle. No thanks.
Glad to report all went well and am now checking plugs/wires.
So it sounds like this one is a bear. Is there any way you can see replacing it without removing the intake plenum? I have done that before to replace the spark plugs, but I don't want to have to remove all of that mess again if I don't have to.
 

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So it sounds like this one is a bear. Is there any way you can see replacing it without removing the intake plenum? I have done that before to replace the spark plugs, but I don't want to have to remove all of that mess again if I don't have to.
You can do it without removing plenum. I did it.

First, get 1/2 extensions. If you use 3/8, they WILL break. Mine did. You need few long ones, needs to be at least 3 feet. (I think I used two 12 inches and one 6 inch one). And get a breaker bar. Forget torque wrenches.

Remove driver wheel, put car on jack stand. Put wheel underneath. ONLY Remove one wheel.

SAFETY First - put 2 jack stands instead of only one. You don't want to die. I used 3 jack stands (i have 4 stands)

Remove wheel well plastic dirt panels.

Look through around rear side to see rear mount side bolt. (forgot what size). You can see the bolt from the wheel well.

Don't use impact, the extensions will bounce around and don't do much. I tried as well. You have to use manual force. The bolts are really tight.

Break the side bolt with the extension and breaker bar through the wheel well. (Put one end on another jack stand so you are putting on a straight horizontal level force). -- Some people were able to break side bolt from bottom with a wrench. You can try that as well.

Open hood as much as you can, remove it if you need to. I did it without removing.

Go up on top of the engine (gingerly) - don't break anything with your foot. You can put your knee on the plenum and my foot on the air filter box. be careful with the MAF sensor connection sticking out.

you can reach the two vertical bolts from behind plenum with extension and socket. Break them. The reason is, you do not have room to maneuver the breaker bar from the bottom. They are really tight so you really need a breaker bar to break the bolts.

Put jack under engine - with a flat wood on either oil pan or the transmission hump and raise it like 1 inch.

Then, go underneath and use socket and wrench to remove the two bolts (I think nuts are fixed in there). And remove the side bolt and nut.

You will have to wiggle the mount out from bottom.

Install is reverse.

It took me about 3 hours.

It takes time because unless you have a lift, no room for even a small cordless impact wrench underneath.

Remember, the bolts are in really tight. But, forget the torque wrench. Just put them on tight as you can. They are not going anywhere.

Key is, good 1/2 inch breaker bar, several 1/2 inch extensions, 6 point 1/2 inch sockets, 1/2 inch wrench, 3/8 sockets and wrench, impact 1/2 inch U-joint (they don't flop around as much). You will need that U-joint.

Jack and several jack stands are given.

I think you can spray penetrating oil before to help with loosening bolts.

Good luck.
 
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