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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So my 02 starts fine and runs good for about 5-7 miles then it bogs down, you can smell fuel like its running rich and if you stay on the pedal it will stall. Engine was throwing all kinds of different codes. I think I've treated them all. I have changed plugs and coil packs, installed new fuel injectors, throttle position sensor and fuel pressure regulator. And I just today swapped out the ECM and the problem continues. What am I missing???:confused:
 

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So my 02 starts fine and runs good for about 5-7 miles then it bogs down, you can smell fuel like its running rich and if you stay on the pedal it will stall. Engine was throwing all kinds of different codes. I think I've treated them all. I have changed plugs and coil packs, installed new fuel injectors, throttle position sensor and fuel pressure regulator. And I just today swapped out the ECM and the problem continues. What am I missing???:confused:

Would recommend hooking up an OBDII Scanner and seeing what values are listed for the:

Throttle Position Sensor,
Engine Coolant Temp sensor,
Air Intake Temp sensor,

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Short Term and Long Term Fuel trim values,
02 Sensor switching values,

A fuel pressure test wouldn't be a bad idea also.. (To eliminate Fuel starvation from low pump pressure or fuel line / or filter blockage as being cause of issue..)

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From what you posted, it sounds like the motor is running ok in closed loop mode (cold), and dies when the ECM enters open-loop mode (engine hot -> ECM takes over fuel management).

Could be (1) of the sensors above, low fuel pressure, or a bad MAF reporting errant readings - as *possible* causes..

Checking values and performing tests on the sensors is the best way to pinpoint the issue & avoid throwing more $$$ / parts at the Sporty..

If you have DTC codes stored and/or readings above, posting them here would help others to try to help you.

Regards,
GottaCruise
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I've replaced so many parts I forgot that I replaced the fuel pump and the fuel filter. I had the scanner hooked up yesterday right after it started to die and I got engine temp 185. Air intake was 68. What values should I be seeing for TPS, O2, fuel trim etc and when. The reason I replaced many of the fuel system parts was fuel too lean, fuel too rich OBD codes. The code that prompted the ECM change was P1614
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Also forgot, MAF was replaced last year with an aftermarket. All these replacement parts were aftermarket parts
 

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What am I missing???
Diagnostics!!

When the engine is cold, <180*, the ECU is in Open loop and consults a table based on Throttle position and MAF Values..

When the ECU sees >180* from the ECT, it then goes Closed loop and uses the values from all sensors to achieve stoic (14/1).. (this is where you have an issue)

I would like to see your trim levels(STFT/LTFT), no load, CL, @idle and at 1500rpm(held steady)... and @1500rpm traveling on flat terrain...

I would also like to see a number for fuel pressure..., Vacuum..and Exhaust back pressure .. Philip
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
OK. I can get the fuel trim values no problem. What's the best way to get the fuel pressure, vacuum and exhaust back pressure? Thanks
 

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OK. I can get the fuel trim values no problem.
What's the best way to get the fuel pressure,
Connect a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel line, values,
  • key on, (reading)
  • key off, any leakdown?
  • engine running (reading)

vacuum and
Connect V gauge to any unregulated Vacuum nipple (Intake manifold)(19-21"Hg and steady needle @ idle),

exhaust back pressure? Thanks
Using V gauge, connect to exhaust bung (remove upstream O2 sensor), should be no more that 2.5psi @ 1500rpm

Perform the tests in order of this priority... Philip
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok. So I have some values.
CL @ 1500 RPM idle
183 degree ETC
STFT jumped all over the place 0.8, 3.1, 1.6, 3.9, 1,6, 2.3 all in a matter of 30 seconds
LTFT -0.8
Spark advance 10 degrees
Intake Air Temp 75 degrees
MAF 0.852 lb/min
TP 12.9%

Hope this can shed some light
Thanks
 

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Short term fuel trims will vary as they are "short term"... The long term numbers are an "average" of the stft numbers...
Dave
 

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Ok. So I have some values.
CL @ 1500 RPM idle
183 degree ETC

STFT jumped all over the place 0.8, 3.1, 1.6, 3.9, 1,6, 2.3 all in a matter of 30 seconds
LTFT -0.8
Spark advance 10 degrees
Intake Air Temp 75 degrees
MAF 0.852 lb/min
TP 12.9%

Hope this can shed some light
Thanks
This was taken sitting still with engine @ steady 1500rpm (Engine fully warm in CL)?

I would say that this is a typical good reading....
Excellent if the LTFT was at "0"..
Did you take the same readings at idle, +/-650rpm? ....
In N and P if auto.. Philip
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yes, sitting still, fully warm engine, 1500 rpm. I can take the numbers at idle in Neutral and Park. Of course I've been asking everyone about the problem I'm having. One person suggested the coil packs. Does that sound like something that could be plausible?
 

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So my 02 starts fine and runs good for about 5-7 miles then it bogs down, you can smell fuel like its running rich and if you stay on the pedal it will stall. Engine was throwing all kinds of different codes. I think I've treated them all. I have changed plugs and coil packs, installed new fuel injectors, throttle position sensor and fuel pressure regulator. And I just today swapped out the ECM and the problem continues. What am I missing???:confused:
2 things I would go over again

Fuel pressure when in problem mode... and
Exhaust pressure, remove the front O2, install a pressure gauge, should be no higher than 2.5psi @2500rpm....

The engine runs on a table (logarithm) for the first couple of minutes, when the ECT reaches >170*, the ECU attains CL (closed loop). The O2, MAF and TPS are instrumental in the ECU adjusting fuel (pulse) and timing to bring the engine into stoic (14.7:1, AFR)..... One of those things is not happening. ......Philip
 

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This might sound silly, but I would also check the hood batting in the area of the front air intake snout, mounted on top of the radiator: if loose or drooping, it could be restricting air flow into the motor..

Easy test is to (remove) the front intake snout up to where it attaches to the lower air box (where the air cleaner is installed) - if improvement, repair or remove the hood batting from the area of the front intake snout..

Your idle is too high, I'd also check to make sure there is some minimal amount of slack in the throttle cable -> to the throttle body.. The cable should not be overly-tight at idle to the point of engaging throttle.

I'd do these quick checks, in addition to whatever Philip recommends..

Regards,
GottaCruise
 
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