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Replacing front bearing, can't get CV axle out of hub

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18K views 12 replies 3 participants last post by  Habanero64  
So, no risk in trying this approach? It would not only save me some potentially unnecessary disassembly if the axle stays stuck, but I imagine would allow more of the impact to go to the axle instead of the suspension since the weight of the car will keep the wheel and thus hub in place.
The hub is pressed into the bearing and the hub comes out from the rim side. So a good pounding on the CV joint shaft end thru the hub is NOT going to move the hub. From all you posted, plan on replacing the drive flange(hub) and outer CV joint along with the axle bearing. IF you had been hammering(or pulling) against the drive flange(hub), chances are that it is slightly bent and will cause "wobbles" in rotation on reassembly...BTDT on a few different cars with same "seizing" problem.
 
Cost of complete shafts with both CV joints has come down in price dramatically over the years, It used to be that it was less costly to replace a CV joint than replace whole axle... That is your call to make when you do get the outer joint to release from the drive hub seizure(rust). But since that section is part of the outer CV joint, I'll wager that by the time you do get it to come apart that the joint will need to be replaced from all the pounding on it. Nice to hear that you already got the "bearing kit" with the new drive hub, did you get it thru rockauto? I did that with our daughters Spectra a few months ago, and the price thru them was very reasonable!
 
When I did our Spectra( and many other make FWD's) I jack up the side I'm working on to leave car at an angle(on jack stands). IF there is any spillage of fluid, it is minimal at worst. You do know about popping the ball joint stud from the knuckle to have clearance to swing the axle shaft out once you get the outer CV freed of the hub, as you did the other side already. Nope there are not any special tricks to pull the axle assy. out, just a goodly size screwdriver(or similar) to pop the inner joint from the trans, it's just a "C" ring on the drive stub that contracts at a quick "pop" releasing the joint from the trans. I GUARANTEE it will come out much easier than the outer end is doing to you! :)
 
Our 09 Spectra has a "pinch bolt/nut" on the knuckle to remove and then pry down the LCA, thus separating it from the knuckle. Not sure just how your Rio is designed. I have heard both good and bad of "Carid", I prefer rockauto for my needs, I've never had trouble with them for 6 other makes that I have to maintain in the family.
I actually have a similar to your problem with my 98 Avenger coupe with the outer CV's hub shaft seized, but the bearing is good, so I just put it all back together and will fuss with it WHEN the need arises. Being so old, some parts for it are getting hard to find especially when a hybrid Dodge/Mitsubishi product that it is!